Rio is divided into three sections: Zona Norte (North Zone), Zona Sul (South Zone), and the "downtown" area that separates them, called Centro. Centro is a sprawling collection of several districts that contain the city's oldest neighborhoods, churches, and most enchanting cafés. Except for some museums, churches, and historical sights, most of the tourism activity is in the beach- and hotel-laden Zona Sul.

To sense the carioca spirit, spend a day on Copacabana and walk from the Avenida Atlântica to Ipanema. The western extension of Ipanema, Leblon, is an affluent, intimate community flush with good, small restaurants and bars. The more distant southern beaches, beginning with São Conrado and extending past Barra da Tijuca to Grumari, become richer in natural beauty and increasingly isolated.

Rio's subway system, the metrô, is clean, safe, and efficient -- a delight to use -- but it's not comprehensive. Reaching sights distant from metrô stations can be a challenge. Local buses are inexpensive and can take you anywhere you want to go. Route maps aren't available, but the tourist office has lists of routes to the most popular sights.