All international flights and most domestic flights arrive and depart from the Aeroporto Internacional Galeão (GIG) (PHONE: 021/398-6060), about 45 minutes northwest of the beach area and most of Rio's hotels.

Aeroporto Santos Dumont (SDU) (PHONE: 021/524-7070), 20 minutes from the beaches and within walking distance of Centro, serves the Rio-São Paulo air shuttle and a few air-taxi firms.

Major U.S. carriers serving Brazil include American Airlines (which flies nonstop from New York and Miami to Rio and São Paulo), Continental Airlines (which flies from Houston and Newark to Rio and São Paulo), and United Airlines (with flights from Chicago, New York, and Miami to São Paulo, and from Miami to Rio). Delta serves Rio and São Paulo directly from Atlanta.

From London's Heathrow Airport you can take American or United and fly to Brazil via Miami or New York. Varig has flights from Heathrow to both Rio and São Paulo. British Airways has nonstop service from London's Gatwick Airport to Rio and São Paulo. Continental flies from Gatwick to Newark and on to both Rio and São Paulo.

From Sydney, Australia, you can take Qantas to Los Angeles, pick up an American Airlines flight to Miami, and then complete your trip to Rio on Varig. Air New Zealand offers flights to major Brazilian cities through its partnership with Varig. Direct flights to Los Angeles -- where you transfer to Varig -- depart from Auckland once or twice a day.

Some sample flying times are: 8½ hours from New York, 7 hours from Miami, 12 hours from Los Angeles (via Miami); direct flights to São Paulo from Los Angeles take about 11 hours. From London, it's 7 hours to São Paulo.

Brazilian Carriers

TAM (PHONE: 888/235-9826 in the U.S.).

Transbrasil (PHONE: 800/872-3153 in the U.S.; 021/398-5485; 021/297-4477 in Brazil).

Varig (PHONE: 800/468-2744 in the U.S.; 021/534-0333; 021/217-4591 in Brazil).

VASP (PHONE: 800/732-8277 in the U.S.; 021/292-2112; 021/462-3363 in Brazil).

North American Carriers

Air Canada (PHONE: 800/776-3000; 800/361-8620 in Canada).

American Airlines (PHONE: 800/433-7300 in North America; 021/398-4053; 021/210-3126 in Brazil).

Canadian Airlines (PHONE: 800/665-1177 in Canada; 800/426-7000 in the U.S.; 021/398-3604; 021/220-5343 in Brazil).

Continental Airlines (PHONE: 800/231-0856 in North America).

Delta Airlines (PHONE: 800/241-4141 in the U.S.; 021/398-3492; 021/507-7262 in Brazil).

United Airlines (PHONE: 800/241-6522 in North America; 021/398-4050; 021/532-1212 in Brazil).

From Australia and New Zealand

Air New Zealand (PHONE: 0396/703-700 in Australia; 0800/737-000; 09/357-8900 in New Zealand).

Qantas (PHONE: 13-13-13 in Australia; 0800/808-767 in New Zealand).

From the U.K.

American Airlines (PHONE: 0345/789-789).

British Airways (PHONE: 0345/222-111).

Continental Airlines (PHONE: 0800/776464).

United Airlines (PHONE: 0845/844-4777).

Varig (PHONE: 020/7287-3131).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Bus

Air-conditioned buses park curbside outside customs; for about $4 they will take you to the beaches where the majority of Rio's hotels are located. The trip takes about an hour, and drivers follow the beachfront drives, stopping at all hotels. If you are going to a hotel inland from the beach the driver will stop at the nearest beachfront corner (but remember, you'll have to handle your own luggage). Buses leave from the airport every half hour from 5:20 AM to 11 PM. Buses to the airport leave from the Hotel Nacional in São Conrado every half hour from 6:30 AM to 11 PM; pick-up times at other hotels vary, so ask the concierge or at the front desk where you're staying.

By Car

If you arrive at at Galeão Airport, take the Airport Expressway, known in Portuguese as the Linha Vermelha, to the beach area. This expressway takes you through two tunnels and into the Lagoa neighborhood. Exit on Avenida Epitácio Pessoa, the winding street that circles the lagoon. To reach Copacabana, exit again at Avenida Henrique Dodsworth (known popularly as the Corte do Cantagalo). For Ipanema and Leblon, there are several exits beginning with Rua Maria Quitéria.

By Taxi

Special airport taxis have booths in the arrival areas of both airports. Fares to all parts of Rio are posted at the booths, and you pay in advance (about $35-$50). Also trustworthy are the white radio taxis parked in the same areas; these charge an average of 20% less.

Three reliable taxi firms are Transcoopass (PHONE: 021/560-4888), Cootramo (PHONE: 021/560-5442), and Coopertramo (PHONE: 021/560-2022).

Air-conditioned frescão buses run by Empresa Real (PHONE: 021/290-5665 or 021/270-7041) park curbside outside customs at Galeão and outside the main door at Santos Dumont; for less than $3 they make the hour-long trip into the city, following the beachfront drives and stopping at all hotels along the way. If your hotel is inland, the driver will let you off at the nearest beachfront corner. Buses leave from the airport every half-hour from 5:20 AM to 11 PM.

Driving in from São Paulo (429 km/266 mi on BR 116) and Brasília (1,150 km/714 mi on BR 040), you enter Rio via Avenida Brasil, which runs into Centro's beachside drive, the Avenida Infante Dom Henrique. This runs along Rio's Baía de Guanabara and passes through the Copacabana Tunnel to Copacabana Beach. Here the beachside Avenida Atlântica continues into Ipanema and Leblon along Avenidas Antônio Carlos Jobim (Ipanema) and Delfim Moreira (Leblon). From Galeão, take the Airport Expressway (known as the Linha Vermelha, or Red Line) to the beach area. This expressway takes you through two tunnels and into Lagoa. Exit on Avenida Epitácio Pessoa, the winding street encircling the lagoon. To reach Copacabana, exit at Avenida Henrique Dodsworth (popularly known as the Corte do Cantagalo). For Ipanema and Leblon, there are several exits beginning with Rua Maria Quitéria.

Some distances: Rio-São Paulo, 429 km (266 mi); Rio-Brasília, 1,150 km (714 mi); Rio-Belém, 3,250 km (2,018 mi).

Intercity trains leave from the central station that appeared in the Oscar-nominated movie by the same name, Estação Dom Pedro II Central do Brasil (Praça Cristiano Otoni on Avenida President Vargas, Centro, PHONE: 021/233-8818).

Trains, including a daily overnight train to São Paulo, also leave from the Estação Leopoldina Barao de Maria (Av. Francisco Bicalho, São Cristóvão, PHONE: 021/273-1122 or 021/575-3399), near Praça 15 de Novembro.

Banks are usually open weekdays 10-4. Office hours are generally 9-5.

Within cities and along major highways, many gas stations are open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. In smaller towns, they may only be open during daylight hours, Monday-Saturday.

Many museums are open from 10 or 11 to 5 or 6 (they may stay open later one night a week). Some museums, however, are only open in the afternoon, and many are closed on Monday. Always check ahead.

Generally, small shops are open weekdays from 9 to 6 and on Saturday from 9 to 1 or 2. Centers and malls are often open from 10 to 10. Some centers, malls, and pharmacies are open on Sunday.

Arriving in Brazil

Formerly strict import controls have been substantially liberalized as part of the Brazilian government's efforts to open up the nation's economy to competition. In addition to personal items, you're now permitted to bring in, duty-free, up to $500 worth of gifts purchased abroad, including up to 2 liters of liquor. If you plan to bring in plants, you may do so only with documentation authenticated by the consular service.

The current in Brazil isn't regulated: In São Paulo and Rio, it's 110 or 120 volts, 60 cycles alternating current (the same as in the United States and Canada); in Recife and Brasília it's 220 volts (the same as in Europe); and in Manaus and Salvador, it's 127 volts. Bring a converter. Wall outlets take Continental-type plugs, with two round prongs. Consider buying a universal adapter; the Swiss-Army-knife of adapters, a universal has several types of plugs in one handy unit. If your appliances are dual-voltage (as many laptops are), you'll need only an adapter. Don't use 110-volt outlets, marked "For Shavers Only," for high-wattage appliances such as blow-dryers.

American Embassy (Lote 3, Unit 3500, Av. das Nações, 70403-900, Brasília, DF, PHONE: 061/321-7272).

Australian Embassy (SES, Quadra 09 Conjunto 16, Casa 01, 70469-900, Brasília, DF, PHONE: 061/248-5569).

British Embassy (SES, Quadra 801, Loto 8, Conjunto K, 70408-900, Brasília, DF, PHONE: 061/225-2710).

Canadian Embassy (SES, Av. das Nações, Lote 16, 70410-900, Brasília, DF, PHONE: 061/321-2171).

New Zealand Consulate-General (Rua Hungria 888-6, 01455, São Paulo, PHONE: 011/212-2288).

Police (PHONE: 190).

Tourism Police (Av. Afranio de Melo Franco, Leblon, PHONE: 021/511-5112).

Ambulance and fire (PHONE: 193).

Clinics

Cardio Plus(Rua Visconde de Pirajá 330, Ipanema, PHONE: 021/521-4899).

Galdino Campos Cardio Copa Medical Clinic (Av. Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 492, Copacabana, PHONE: 021/548-9966).

Medtur (Av. Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 647, Copacabana, PHONE: 021/235-3339).

Dentist

Policlinica Barata Ribeiro(Rua Barata Ribeiro 51, Copacabana, PHONE: 021/275-4697).

Pharmacies

Round the clock pharmacies include Drogario Pacheco (Av. Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 534, Copacabana, PHONE: 021/548-1525).

Farmacia do Leme (Av. Prado Junior 237, Leme, PHONE: 021/275-3847).

Although Brazil is a predominately Catholic country, in many places there's an anything-goes outlook. As a rule, coastal areas (particularly Rio and parts of the northeast) are considerably less conservative than inland areas and those throughout the south. People dress nicely to enter churches, and hats are frowned upon during mass.

Whether they tend toward the conservative or the risqué, Brazilians are a very friendly lot. Don't be afraid to smile in the streets, ask for directions, or strike up a conversation with a local (be aware, however, that a Brazilian may give you false directions before admitting that he or she doesn't know where to point you). The slower pace of life in much of the country reflects an unwavering appreciation of family and friendship (as well as a respect for the heat); knowing this will help you understand why things may take a little longer to get done.

Throughout the country, use the "thumbs up" gesture to indicate that something is OK. The gesture created by making a circle with your thumb and index finger and holding your other fingers up in the air has a very rude meaning.

Style Travel (Rua Visconde de Piraja 433, 6th floor, Ipanema, PHONE: 021/522-0709, FAX: 021/522-0617), an offshoot of the established Brasil Plus travel agency, is a great source of information on gay and lesbian lodging, tour, and nightlife options in the area. It can also supply knowledgeable, English-speaking gay and lesbian guides and arrange trips to outlying areas. Style Travel is a member of the International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA).

Claudio Nascimento runs the Arco-Iris Association (021/293-5322), which educates the public about AIDS and AIDS prevention and gay and lesbian rights (it recently conducted a course for police officers). The group also lobbies for legal reform, and provides general assistance and information for Rio's gay and lesbian community.

Sui Generes is Rio's gay and lesbian glossy magazine. It's available at most newsstands and lists local arts, music, and style events. Entre Nós and O Grito are Rio's gay newspapers. All of these publications are in Portuguese.

Visit Rio's on-line "Gay Guide" at www.ipanema.com/rio/gay. The site is a wealth of information -- from the practical to the downright sexy -- on Rio and its lesbian and gay scene. The best gay beaches in Rio are at Bolsa on Copacabana Beach in front of the Copacabana Palace and at Ipanema by posts 8 and 9, east of Rua Farme de Amoeda, a.k.a. Farme Gay. Locals on these sandy stretches are usually open to questions about what's happening in the gay and lesbian community.

You should avoid tap water (note that ice in restaurants and bars is safe as it's usually made from bottled water), and take care not to soak up too much sun.

The language in Brazil is Portuguese, not Spanish, but fluent speakers of Spanish will be able to make themselves understood. English is spoken among educated Brazilians and, in general, by at least some of the staff at hotels, tour operators, and travel agencies. Store clerks and waiters may have a smattering of English; taxi and bus drivers won't. As in many places throughout the world, you're more likely to find English-speaking locals in major cities than in small towns or the countryside.

Post offices are called correios, and branches are marked by the name and a logo that looks something like two interlocked fingers; most are open weekdays 8-5 and Saturday until noon. Mailboxes are small yellow boxes marked "Correios" that sit atop metal pedestals on street corners.

Sending Mail Home

An airmail letter from Brazil to the United States and most parts of Europe, including the United Kingdom, costs about $1. Aerograms and postcards cost the same.

Airmail from Brazil takes at least 10 or more days to reach the United States, possibly longer to Canada and the United Kingdom, and definitely longer to Australia and New Zealand.

Recent economic developments have seen the dollar and the pound strengthen significantly against the Brazilian real (R$; plural: reais, though it's sometimes seen as reals). But the winds of change blow fast in this part of the world -- and they might take the good exchange rates with them; check before you travel.

Top hotels in Rio and São Paulo go for more than $200 a night, and meals can -- but do not have to -- cost as much. Outside Brazil's two largest cities and Brasília, prices for food and lodging tend to drop considerably. Self-service salad bars where you pay per weight (per kilo) are inexpensive alternatives in all cities and towns, though be sure to choose carefully among them. Taxis can be pricey. City buses, subways, and long-distance buses are all inexpensive; plane fares definitely aren't.

ATMs

Nearly all the nation's major banks have automated teller machines. Visa and Plus cards are widely accepted, but in general, MasterCard and Cirrus aren't (some airport Banco Itau ATMs are linked to Cirrus). American Express card holders can make withdrawals at most Bradesco ATMs marked "24 Horas." To be on the safe side, carry a variety of cards. Note also that if your PIN is more than four digits long and/or uses letters instead of numbers, it might not work; talk to your bank. Finally, for your card to function with some ATMs, you may need to hit a screen command that roughly translates as "foreign client."

Changing Money

Brazil has three different exchange rates, all floating and thus subject to daily variation. As a tourist, the rate you will most often get is the tourism exchange rate (câmbio turismo), used by hotels and credit card companies.

For an average day in Rio, a good strategy is to convert up to $100 into reais before leaving your hotel, more if you are planning on a big meal. This provides sufficient cash for most of the day's expenses, such as taxis and small purchases and snacks, and saves the trouble of haggling over the exchange rate with taxi drivers and restaurant managers, who often try to take advantage of tourists.

Currency

One real has 100 centavos (cents). There are notes worth 1, 5, 10, 50, and 100 reais, together with coins worth 1, 5, 10, 25, and 50 centavos, and 1 real, all of which feel and look similar.

Entering Brazil

To enter Brazil, all U.S. citizens, even infants, must have both a passport and a tourist visa (valid for five years). To obtain one, you must submit the following to the Brazilian Embassy or to the nearest consulate: a passport that will be valid for six months past the date of first entry to Brazil; a passport-type photo; a photocopy of your round-trip ticket or a signed letter from a travel agency with confirmed round-trip bookings or proof of your ability to pay for your stay in Brazil; and cash, a money order, or a certified check for $45 (there's also a $10 handling fee if anyone other than the applicant submits the visa).

If you're a business traveler, you may need a business visa (valid for 90 days). It has all the same requirements as a tourist visa, but you'll also need a letter on company letterhead -- addressed to the embassy or consulate and signed by an authorized representative (other than you) -- stating the nature of your business in Brazil, itinerary, business contacts, dates of arrival and departure, and that the company assumes all financial and moral responsibility while you're in Brazil. The fee is $105 (plus the $10 fee if someone other than you submits the visa). In addition to the forms of payment detailed above, a company check is also acceptable.

Canadian nationals, Australians, and New Zealanders also need passports and visas to enter the country. For Canadians, the fee is US$40; for New Zealanders, US$20; and for Australians, there's no charge. Citizens of the United Kingdom don't need a visa.

In the United States, there are Brazilian consulates in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, New York, San Francisco, and San Juan. To get the location of the Brazilian consulate to which you must apply, contact the Brazilian Embassy (3006 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008, PHONE: 202/745-2700). Note that some consulates don't allow you to apply for a visa by mail. If you don't live near a city with a consulate, consider hiring a concierge-type service to do your legwork. Many cities have these companies, which not only help with the paperwork for such things as visas and passports, but also send someone to wait in line for you.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport or to renew is during the fall and winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0990/210-410) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35 cents per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service).

Despite its reputation, Rio is no more dangerous these days than any large city. Most crimes involving visitors occur in crowded public areas: beaches, busy sidewalks, intersections, and city buses. Pickpockets, usually children, work in groups. One will distract you while another grabs a wallet, bag, or camera. Be particularly wary of children who thrust themselves in front of you and ask for money or offer to shine your shoes. Another member of the gang may strike from behind, grabbing your valuables and disappearing into the crowd. Another tactic is for people to approach your car at intersections. Always keep doors locked and windows partially closed. Leave valuables in your hotel safe, don't wear expensive jewelry or watches, and keep cameras out of sight. Walking alone at night on the beach isn't a good idea; neither is getting involved with drugs. Penalties for possession are severe, and dealers are the worst of the worst.

Hotel taxes are roughly 8%; meal taxes, 15.25%; car rental taxes, 12.5%. Taxes on international flights from Brazil aren't always included in your ticket and can run as high as $40; domestic flights may incur $10 in additional charges. Although U.S. dollars are accepted in some airports, be prepared to pay departure taxes in reais.

Tipping

At restaurants that add a 10% service charge onto the check, it's customary to give the waiter an additional 5% tip. If there's no service charge, leave 15%. In deluxe hotels, tip porters 50 cents per bag, chambermaids 50 cents per day, $1 for room and valet service. Tips for doormen and concierges vary, depending on the services provided. A good tip would be $10 or higher, average $5. For moderate and inexpensive hotels, tips tend to be minimal (salaries are so low that virtually anything is well received). If a taxi driver helps you with your luggage, a per-bag charge of about 35 cents is levied in addition to the fare. In general, tip taxi drivers 10% of the fare.

At the barber shop or beauty salon, a 10%-20% tip is expected. If a service station attendant does anything beyond filling up the gas tank, leave him a small tip of a nickel or dime. Tipping in bars and cafés follows the rules of restaurants, although at outdoor bars Brazilians rarely leave a tip if they had only a soft drink or a beer. In general, tip washroom attendants and shoe-shine boys about one-third what you would tip at home. At airports and at train and bus stations, tip the last porter who puts your bags into the cab (50 cents a bag at airports, 25 cents a bag at bus and train stations). In large cities you will often be accosted on the street by children looking for handouts; 25 cents is an average "tip."

Telephone numbers in Brazil don't always have the same number of digits. To call Brazil from overseas, dial the country code, 55, and then the area code, omitting the first 0. The area code for Rio is 021.

Directory & Operator Information

For local directory assistance, dial 102. For directory assistance in another Brazilian city, dial the area code of that city plus 121.

International Calls

Phone offices are found at airports, many bus stations, and in downtown neighborhoods of large cities.

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

Long-Distance Calls

Even with a phone card, you may not be able to make long-distance calls from some pay phones -- and the logic behind which ones will and which ones won't allow such calls varies from region to region, making it as baffling as it is Brazilian. First, do as the locals do: shrug your shoulders and smile. Second, do as the locals say: ask the staff at your hotel for insight.

Public Phones

Public phones are everywhere and are called orelhões (big ears) because of their shape. To use them, buy a phone card, cartão de telefone, at a posto telefônico (phone office), newsstand, or post office. Cards come with a varying number of units (each unit is usually worth a couple of minutes), which will determine the price. Buy a couple of cards if you don't think you'll have the chance again soon.

Tourist Offices

In Rio

The Rio de Janeiro city tourism department, Riotur (Rua da Assembléia 10, near Praça 15 de Novembro, Centro, PHONE: 021/217-7575), has an information booth (PHONE: 021/541-7522) at Avenida Princesa Isabel 183 in Copacabana; it's open 8-5 daily. There are also city tourism desks at the airports and the Novo Rio bus terminal.

The Rio de Janeiro state tourism board, Turisrio (Rua da Assembléia 10, 7th and 8th floors, Centro, PHONE: 021/531-1922), is open weekdays 9-6.

You can also try contacting Brazil's national tourism board, Embratur (Rua Uruguaiana 174, Centro, PHONE: 021/509-6017).

At Home

Pro-Brazil, Inc.. (554 5th Ave., 4th floor, New York, NY 10036, PHONE: 212/997-4070).

RioTur (3601 Aviation Blvd., Suite 2100, Manhattan Beach, CA 90266, PHONE: 310/643-2638; 201 E. 12th St., Suite 509, New York, NY 10003, PHONE: 212/375-0801).

Seasons below the Equator are the reverse of those north of it: Summer in Brazil runs from December to March and winter from June to September. The rainy season occurs during the summer months, but in most parts of Brazil is rarely a nuisance. Showers can be torrential but usually last no more than an hour or two, after which the sun reappears. The areas of the country with pronounced rainy seasons are the Amazon and the Pantanal Wetlands. In these regions, the rainy season runs roughly November to May and is marked by heavy downpours that usually occur twice a day.

Prices in beach resorts are invariably higher during the high season (Brazilian summer). If you're looking for a bargain, stick to the off-season (May-June and August-October; July is school-break month). In Rio and at beach resorts along the coast, especially in the northeast, these months offer the added attraction of relief from the often oppressive summer heat, although in Rio the temperature can drop to uncomfortable levels for swimming from June through August.

Rio de Janeiro is on the Tropic of Capricorn, and its climate is just that -- tropical. Summers are hot and humid, with temperatures rising as high as 105°F (40°C), although the average ranges between 84°F and 95°F (29°C-35°C). In winter, temperatures stay in the 70s (20s°C), occasionally dipping into the high 60s (15°C-20°C). The same pattern holds true for all of the Brazilian coastline north of Rio, although in general temperatures are slightly higher year-round in Salvador and the coastal cities of the northeast. In the Amazon region where the equator crosses the country, temperatures in the high 80s to 90s (30s C) are common throughout the year. In the south, São Paulo, and parts of Minas Gerais, winter temperatures can fall to the low 40s (5°C-8°C). In the southern states of Santa Catarina and Rio Grande do Sul, snowfalls occur in winter, although they're seldom more than dustings.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Rio:

January 84-69°F (29-21°C); February 85-73°F (29-23°C); March 83-72°F (28-22°C); April 80-69°F (27-21°C); May 77-66°F (25-19°C); June 76-64°F (24-18°C); July 75-64°F (24-18°C); August 76-64°F (24-18°C); September 75-66°F (24-19°C); October 77-63°F (25-17°C); November 79-68°F (26-20°C); December 82-71°F (28-22°C).

National Holidays

New Year's Day (Jan. 1); Epiphany (Jan. 6); Carnival (the week preceding Ash Wednesday); Good Friday; Easter; Tiradentes Day (Apr. 21); Labor Day (May 1); Corpus Christi (May 27); Independence Day (Sept. 7); Our Lady of Aparecida Day (Oct. 12); All Souls' Day (Nov. 2); Declaration of the Republic Day (Nov. 15); Christmas (Dec. 25).

Local buses are inexpensive and can take you anywhere you want to go. (Route maps aren't available, but the tourist office has lists of routes to the most popular sights.) Much has been made of the possibility of being robbed on Rio's buses, but crime has dropped significantly in the last few years; if you're discreet, you shouldn't have any problems. Just don't wear expensive watches or jewelry, carry a camera or a map in hand, or talk boisterously in English. It's also wise to avoid buses during rush hour. You enter buses at the rear, where you pay an attendant, and pass through a turnstile, then exit at the front. Have your fare in hand when you board to avoid flashing bills or wallets. Be aware that bus drivers speak no English, and they drive like maniacs.

The more upscale, air-conditioned frescão buses run between the beaches, downtown, and Rio's two airports. These vehicles, which look like highway buses, stop at regular bus stops but also may be flagged down wherever you see them. Also recommended are the jardineira buses, open-sided vehicles (they look like old-fashioned streetcars) that follow the beach drive from Copacabana to São Conrado as well as beyond to Barra da Tijuca. White posts along the street mark jardineira stops. They offer excellent views of the scenery and drive slowly along the beach avenue, a welcome relief to anyone who has ridden the regular city buses. Green minivans also run back and forth along beachfront avenues, stopping to pick up and drop off people wherever they're flagged. (Fares start at about $2.)

Driving in Rio isn't for the faint of heart. The local style of driving is passionate to the point of abandon, traffic jams are common, the streets aren't well marked, and red lights are often more decorative than functional. Further, despite the fact that the city has opened new parking areas along the beachfront boulevards, finding a spot can still be a problem. If you do choose to drive, exercise extreme caution, wear seat belts at all times, and keep the doors locked.

Cars and Drivers

Turismo Clássico Travel (Av. Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 1059, Suite 805, Copacabana, PHONE: 021/287-3390), one of the country's most reliable travel and transport agencies, can arrange for a driver, with or without an English-speaking guide. Classico's owners, Liliana and Vera, speak English and each has 20 years of experience in organizing transportation.

Car Rentals

Car rentals can be arranged through hotels or agencies and cost about $80-$100 a day for standard models.

In Rio

Agencies include Hertz (Av. Princesa Isabel 334, Copacabana, PHONE: 021/275-7440) and Unidas (Av. Princesa Isabel 350, Copacabana, PHONE: 021/275-8299). Both also have desks at the international and domestic airports.

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633; 020/8759-6200 in the United Kingdom).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 020/8897-0811 in the United Kingdom; 02/9223-1444 in Australia).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 03/358-6777 in New Zealand).

National (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom).

Emergency Services

The Clube Automótivel do Brasil (Automobile Club of Brazil, Rua do Passeio 90, Rio de Janeiro PHONE: 021/297-4455) provides emergency assistance to foreign motorists in cities and on highways, but only if they're members of an automobile club in their own nation.

Requirements

In Brazil, the minimum driving age is 18. In theory, foreign drivers' licenses are acceptable. In practice, however, police (particularly highway police) have been known to claim that driving with a foreign license is a violation in order to shake down drivers for bribes. It's best to get an International Driver's Permit, which is seldom challenged.

Road Conditions

Brazilian drivers are, to say the least, dare-devils. You may find it easier to rely on taxis and buses for short distances and on planes for longer journeys.

The country's highway department estimates that 40% of the federal highways (including those with either the designation "BR" or a state abbreviation such as "RJ" or "SP"), which constitute 70% of Brazil's total road system, are in a dangerous state of disrepair. Evidence of this is everywhere: potholes, lack of signage, inadequate shoulders, etc. Landslides and flooding after heavy rains are frequent and at times shut down entire stretches of key highways. Increasing traffic adds to the system's woes, as does the fact that neither speed limits nor the most basic rules of safety seem to figure in the national psyche. The worst offenders are bus and truck drivers. For these reasons, if you drive, do so with the utmost caution.

Rules of the Road

Brazilians drive on the right, and in general, traffic laws are the same as those in the United States. The use of seat belts is mandatory. The national speed limit is 80 kph (48 mph), but is seldom observed.

If you do get a ticket for some sort of violation -- real or imagined -- don't argue. And plan to spend longer than you want settling it.

Rio's subway system, the metrô (PHONE: 021/292-6116 or 021/255-5552) is clean, safe, and efficient -- a delight to use -- but it's not comprehensive. Reaching sights distant from metrô stations can be a challenge, especially in summer when the infamous traffic jams and the 90° heat add to everyone's exasperation. Plan your tours accordingly; tourism offices and some metrô stations have maps.

Trains run daily from 6 AM to 11 PM along two lines: Linha 1 runs north from the Cardeal Arcoverde stop in Copacabana, parallel to the coast and into downtown, then west to its terminus at Saens Pena station; Linha 2 starts four stops before Saens Pena at Estacio and heads northwest to Rio's edge at the Pavuna station. A single metrô ticket costs R$1, a 10-pack is R$10 (but there are discounts for riding the subway during the non-rush hours between noon and 4 PM). Combination metrô-bus tickets allow you to take special buses to and from the Botafogo station: The M-21 runs to Leblon via Jardim Botânico and Jóque; the M-22 goes to Leblon by way of Túnel Velho, Copacabana, and Ipanema.

Yellow taxis have meters that start at a set price and have two rates: "1" for before and "2" for after 8 PM. The "2" rate also applies to Sundays and holidays, the month of December, the neighborhoods of São Conrado and Barra da Tijuca, and when climbing steep hills. Drivers are required to post a chart noting the current fares on the inside of the left rear window. Few Rio cabbies speak English. They are, by and large, wonderful people, but there are exceptions. Remain alert and trust your instincts; a few drivers have taken non-natives for a ride.

Radio taxis and several companies that routinely serve hotels (and whose drivers often speak English) are also options. Radio cabs charge 30% more than other taxis but are reliable and, usually, air-conditioned. Other cabs working with the hotels will also charge more, normally a fixed fee that you should agree upon before you leave. Reliable radio cab companies include Centro de Taxis (PHONE: 021/593-2598), Coopacarioca (PHONE: 021/253-3847), and Coopatur (PHONE: 021/290-1009).