Prices are for two people in a standard double room in high season.

High-ceiling rooms in Renaissance palazzi, sleek marble baths and plush carpets, and the thrill of opening your window to a view of the Pantheon's dome or a pretty baroque church are some of the pleasures of Rome lodging. Even in budget hotels, where the rooms may be small, the furniture tacky, and the floors creaky, you may enjoy the same views and a sense of being in the heart of history. Rome has a wide range of hotels, most of them in the downtown area.

Palatial settings, luxurious comfort, spacious rooms, and high standards of service can be taken for granted in Rome's top establishments, all in the most expensive price category. But in other categories, especially moderate and inexpensive, standards vary considerably. As a rule of thumb, in the moderate and inexpensive categories you have to expect to pay higher rates for less space and fewer comforts than you would for a hotel room in a comparable category in the United States. Many smaller places are renovated palazzi with rigid structural schemes that put space at a premium; a few square feet of private bathroom space often has to be subtracted from the area of rooms that are not very big to start with.

International chains such as Hilton, Sheraton, Holiday Inn, and Marriott have luxury properties in Rome and maintain high standards of comfort. The Best Western group includes about eight moderately priced, independently owned and managed hotels in downtown Rome. Jolly hotels and Starhotels are Italy-based international chains with four-star hotels in Rome.

There are obvious advantages to staying in a hotel within easy walking distance of the main sights, particularly because parts of downtown Rome are closed to traffic and are blessedly quieter than they once were. Stringent traffic and parking restrictions make a car a nuisance; if you have one, leave it in a garage and explore the city on foot. Staying in a central hotel means that you won't have to use crowded public transportation or take taxis all the time. The Termini Station area has the highest hotel density, but accommodations vary widely, from fine to seedy. Avoid the official-looking men who approach tourists at the Termini Station offering rooms: they tout for the less desirable hotels in the area.

Homes International (Via Bissolati 20, Rome, 00187, Italy, PHONE:06/4881800, FAX: 06/4881808, homesint@tin.it) offers short- and long-term accommodations in Rome. If you do arrive without reservations, try HR (PHONE:06/6991000), with desks at Leonardo da Vinci Airport and Termini Station (an English-speaking operator is available daily 7 AM-10 PM). Property International (Viale Aventino 79, Rome, 00153, Italy, PHONE:06/5743170, FAX: 06/5743182, Property.rm@flashnet.it) handles monthly and weekly rentals in Rome as well as Tuscany. Intervac U.S. charges $105 yearly for a listing, on-line access, and a catalog; the price drops to $50 without the catalog.