Most international flights and all domestic flights arrive at Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci (FCO) (PHONE: 06/65953640), also known as Fiumicino, 30 km (19 mi) southwest of Rome.

Some international and charter flights land at Ciampino (CIA) (Via Appia Nuova, PHONE: 06/794941, www.adr.it), a civil and military airport 15 km (9 mi) southeast of Rome.

Flying time to Rome is approximately 8½ hours from New York, 10-11 hours from Chicago, 11½ hours from Dallas (via New York), 11½ hours from Los Angeles, 2½ hours from London, and 23½ hours from Sydney.

Carriers

Major Airlines

Alitalia (PHONE: 800/223-5730 in the U.S.; 61/292-44-2222 in Australia; 06/65641 in Rome; 848/865641 elsewhere in Italy, www.alitalia.it).

British Airways (PHONE: 800/AIRWAYS in the U.S. and Canada; 0845/77-333-77 in the U.K.; 02/8904-8800 in Australia; 09/356-8690 in New Zealand; 199/712266 toll-free in Italy, www.britishairways.com).

Continental Airlines (PHONE: 800/231-0856 in U.S.; 02/69633256 in Milan; 800/296230 elsewhere in Italy, www.flycontinental.com).

Delta Air Lines (PHONE: 800/241-4141 in U.S.; 800/864114 in Italy, www.deltaairlines.com).

US Airways (PHONE: 800/428-4322 in the U.S.; 848/813177 in Italy, www.usairways.com).

From the U.K.

Direct service from Heathrow and Gatwick is provided by:

Alitalia (PHONE: 0870/544-8259 in the U.K.; 06/65641 in Rome; 848/865641 elsewhere in Italy, www.alitalia.it).

British Airways (PHONE: 0845/77-333-77 in the U.K.; 199/712266 toll-free in Italy, www.britishairways.com), with daily flights from Manchester to Rome

Ryanair (PHONE: 08701/569569 in U.K.; 199/114114 in Italy, www.ryanair.com), departing from London Stansted, has daily flights connecting London with Rome.

Virgin Express (PHONE: 0207/744-0004 in the U.K.; 02/48296000 in Milan; 800/097097 in the rest of Italy) connects London and Rome (via Brussels).

Transfers Between Airport and Town

Between Fiumicino and Downtown

By Car: To get to the city from Fiumicino by car, follow the signs for Rome on the expressway from the airport, which links with the GRA, the beltway around Rome. The direction you take on the GRA depends on where your hotel is, so get directions from the car-rental people at the airport.

By Taxi and Limousine: A taxi from Fiumicino to the center of town costs EUR37-EUR43, including supplementi (extra charges) for airport service and luggage, and the ride takes 30-40 minutes, depending on traffic. Private limousines can be hired at booths in the arrivals hall; they charge a little more than taxis but can take more passengers. Ignore gypsy drivers who approach you inside the terminal; stick to the licensed cabs, yellow or white, that wait by the curb. A booth inside the arrivals hall provides taxi information.

By Train: You have a choice of two trains to get to downtown Rome from Fiumicino Airport. Ask at the airport (at APT or train information counters) which train takes you closer to your hotel.

The nonstop Airport-Termini express takes you directly to Track 22 at Stazione Termini, Rome's main train station, which is well served by taxis and is the hub of metro and bus lines. The ride to Termini takes 30 minutes; departures are every half hour beginning at 6:37 AM from the airport, with a final departure at 11:37 PM. From Termini to the airport, trains leave at 21 and 51 minutes past the hour. Tickets cost EUR8.78.

FM1, the other airport train, runs from the airport to Rome and beyond, terminating in Monterotondo, a suburban town to the east. The main stops in Rome are at Trastevere, Ostiense, and Tiburtina stations; at each you can find taxis and bus and/or metro connections to other parts of Rome. This train runs from Fiumicino from 6:35 AM to 12:15 AM, with departures every 20 minutes, a little less frequently in off-hours. The ride to Tiburtina takes 40 minutes. Tickets cost EUR4.15.

For either train buy your ticket at automatic vending machines. There are ticket counters at some stations (at Termini/Track 22, Trastevere, Tiburtina). Date-stamp the ticket at the gate before you board.

Between Ciampino and Downtown

By Car: Drive north on the Via Appia Nuova to reach downtown Rome.

By Taxi: A taxi from Ciampino to the center of Rome can cost anywhere between EUR24 and EUR31, and the ride takes about 20 minutes. Make sure you choose a driver with an official-looking plate and avoid taking the first cab that approaches you.

By Train: A COTRAL bus connects the airport with the Anagnina Station of Metro line A, which takes you into the center of the city. Buses depart from in front of the airport terminal about 25 times a day between 6:50 AM and 11:40 PM. The fare is EUR1 and your ticket is also good for the Metro. Have change handy for the ticket machine, which is not always working. There is also a shop inside the terminal that can sell you a ticket, but it keeps erratic hours. If both purchasing options fail, board the bus and offer to pay the driver.For more information, contact:

COTRAL (PHONE: 800/431784 toll free).

Ferrovie dello Stato (FS; PHONE: 848/888088 in Italy, www.trenitalia.it).

There is no central bus terminal in Rome. COTRAL (PHONE: 800/431784 toll free) is the suburban bus company that connects Rome with outlying areas and other cities in the Lazio region. Long-distance and suburban buses terminate either near Tiburtina Station or near outlying metro stops such as Rebbibia and Anagnina. For COTRAL bus information, call weekdays 8 AM-6 PM.

Italy's bus network is extensive, although buses are not as attractive an option as in other European countries, partly because of the comparative low cost and convenience of train travel. However, in some areas buses can be faster and more direct than local trains, so it's a good idea to compare bus and train schedules. To reach some smaller towns, the bus is likely to be your only option. Bus service outside cities is organized on a regional level and often operated by private companies.

If you're traveling by bus from the United Kingdom, have some euros on hand to spend en route. And be sure to consider the train, as bus fares are quite high, especially when you take the long and tiring overnight journey into account. Eurolines runs a weekly bus service to Rome that increases to three times a week between June and September.

Bus information is available from Eurolines (52 Grosvenor Gardens, London SW1W 0AU, PHONE: 020/7730-8235 or 020/7730-3499; or contact any National Express agent).

The main access routes from the north are A1 (Autostrada del Sole) from Milan and Florence and the A12-E80 highway from Genoa. The principal route to or from points south, including Naples, is the A2. All highways connect with the Grande Raccordo Anulare (GRA), which channels traffic into the city center. Markings on the GRA are confusing: take time to study the route you need.

Stazione Termini is Rome's main train terminal; the Tiburtina and Ostiense stations serve some long-distance trains, many commuter trains, and the FM1 line to Fiumicino Airport. Some trains for Pisa and Genoa leave Rome from, or pass through, the Trastevere Station.

You can find English-speaking staff at the information office at Stazione Termini, or ask for information at travel agencies. You can purchase tickets up to two months in advance either at the main stations or at most travel agencies. Lines at station ticket windows may be very long, and electronic ticket machines are complex, though they have instructions in English; you can save time by buying your ticket at a travel agency. Remember that you can reserve a seat up to one day in advance at a travel agency or up to three hours in advance at a train station. Tickets for train rides within a radius of 100 km (62 mi) of Rome can be purchased at tobacco shops and at some newsstands, as well as at ticket machines on the main concourse. Like all train tickets, they must be date-stamped before you board, at the machine near the track, or you will be fined.

Train information is available from the state agency, Ferrovie dello Stato (FS; PHONE: 848/888088 in Italy, www.trenitalia.it).

If you are traveling to Rome from the U.K., information is available from:

British Rail (PHONE: 020/7834-2345).

French Railways (PHONE: 0891/515-477).

Banks and Post Offices

Banks are open weekdays 8:30 to 1:30 and 2:45 to 3:45. Most churches are open from early morning until noon or 12:30, when they close for three hours or more; they open again in the afternoon, closing about 6 PM.

Post offices are open Monday-Saturday 9-2; central and main district post offices stay open until 6:30 PM weekdays, 9-2 on Saturday. On the last day of the month all post offices close at midday.

Museums and Sights

A few major churches, including St. Peter's, are open all day. Note that sightseeing in churches during religious rites is discouraged. Museum hours vary and often change with the seasons. Many museums are closed one day a week, often on Monday. During low season, hours are often abbreviated; during high season, many places stay open until late at night. Always check locally. Most shops are open from 9 to 1 and from 3:30 or 4 to 7:30, Monday-Saturday.

Pharmacies

Pharmacies are generally open weekdays from 8:30 to 1 and from 4 to 8, and Saturday mornings 9 to 1. Local pharmacies cover the off-hours in shifts: on the door of every pharmacy is a list of which pharmacies in the vicinity will be open on Saturday afternoon, Sunday, or 24 hours.

Shops

Clothing shops are generally closed on Monday mornings. Barbers and hairdressers, with some exceptions, are closed Sunday and Monday. Some bookstores and fashion and tourist-oriented shops are open all day, as well as Sunday. Chain supermarkets such as Standa have continuous hours and are open on Sunday; smaller alimentari (delicatessens) and other food shops are usually closed one evening during the week (it varies according to the town) and almost always on Sunday.

Arriving in Italy

Of goods obtained anywhere outside the EU, the allowances are (1) 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos (under 3 grams) or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco; (2) 2 liters of still table wine or 1 liter of spirits over 22% volume; and (3) 50 milliliters of perfume and 250 milliliters of toilet water.

Of goods obtained (duty and tax paid) within another EU country, the allowances are (1) 800 cigarettes or 400 cigarillos (under 3 grams) or 200 cigars or 1 kilogram of tobacco; (2) 90 liters of still table wine or 10 liters of spirits over 22% volume or 20 liters of spirits under 22% volume or 110 liters of beer.

There is no quarantine period in Italy, so if you want to travel with your pet, it's possible. Contact your nearest Italian consulate to find out what paperwork is needed for entry into Italy; generally, it is a certificate noting that the animal is healthy and up-do-date on its vaccinations. Keep in mind, however, that the United States has some stringent laws about reentry: pets must be free of all disease, especially those communicable to humans, and they must be vaccinated against rabies at least 30 days before returning. This means that if you are in Italy for a short-term stay, you must find a veterinarian or have your pet vaccinated before departure. (This law does not apply to puppies less than three months old.) Pets should arrive at the point of entry with a statement, in English, attesting to this fact.

Additional customs information is available from:

Ministero delle Finanze, Direzione Centrale dei Servizi Doganali, Divisione I (Via Carucci 71, 00143 Rome, Italy, PHONE: 06/50242117).

Dogana Sezione Viaggiatori (Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci, Fiumicino 00054 Rome, PHONE: 06/65954343).

To use electric-powered equipment purchased in the United States or Canada, bring a converter and adapter. The electrical current in Italy is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take Continental-type plugs, with two or three round prongs.

If your appliances are dual-voltage, you'll need only an adapter. Don't use 110-volt outlets marked "For Shavers Only" for high-wattage appliances such as blow-dryers. Most laptops operate equally well on 110 and 220 volts and so require only an adapter.

Australia

Australian Consulate (Via Alessandria 215, Piazza Fiume, PHONE: 06/852721).

Canada

Canadian Consulate (Via Zara 30, Piazza Fiume, PHONE: 06/445981).

New Zealand

New Zealand Consulate (Via Zara 28, Piazza Fiume, PHONE: 06/4417171).

United Kingdom

U.K. Consulate (Via Venti Settembre 80/a, Via Veneto, PHONE: 06/14200001).

United States

U.S. Consulate (Via Veneto 121, Via Veneto, PHONE: 06/46741).

Ambulance (PHONE: 118).

Police (PHONE: 113).

Red Cross (PHONE: 06/5510).

Italy has a national police force -- Carabinieri (PHONE: 112) -- as well as local police (polizia). Both are armed and have the power to arrest and investigate crimes. Always report the loss of your passport to either the carabinieri or the police, as well as to your embassy. Local traffic officers are known as vigili (though their official name is polizia municipale) -- they are responsible for, among other things, giving out parking tickets and clamping cars, so before you even consider parking the Italian way, make sure you are at least able to spot their white (in summer) or black uniforms (many are women). Should you find yourself involved in a minor car accident in town, you should contact the vigili. A country-wide toll-free number is used to call the carabinieri in case of emergency.

ACI Emergency Service (ACI) (PHONE: 803/116) offers 24-hour road service. Dial 803/116 from any phone, 24 hours a day, to reach the ACI dispatch operator. Also, your rental car company may have an emergency tow service that can be reached with a toll-free call. Check your paperwork or ask when renting.

The Italian word to use to draw people's attention in an emergency is "Aiuto!" (Help!, pronounced "ah-YOU-toh"). "Pronto soccorso" means "first aid" and when said to an operator will get you an ambulanza (ambulance). If you just need a doctor, you should ask for "un medico"; most hotels will be able to refer you to a local doctor. Don't forget to ask the doctor for una ricevuta (an invoice) to show to your insurance company in order to get a reimbursement. Other useful Italian words to use in an emergency are "Al fuoco!" (Fire!, pronounced "ahl fuh-WOE-co"), and "Al ladro!" (Follow the thief!, pronounced "ahl LAH-droh").

Hospital Emergency Rooms

The hospitals listed below have English-speaking doctors:

Rome American Hospital (Via Emilio Longoni 69, Via Prenestina, PHONE: 06/22551, www.rah.it) is about 30 minutes by cab from the center of town.

Salvator Mundi International Hospital (Viale delle Mura Gianicolensi 66, Trastevere, PHONE: 06/588961, www.smih.pcn.net).

Pharmacies

Farmacia Internazionale Capranica, Farmacia Internazionale Barberini, and Farmacia Cola di Rienzo are pharmacies that have some English-speaking staff. Most pharmacies are open 8:30-1 and 4-8; some are open all night. A schedule posted outside each pharmacy indicates the nearest pharmacy open during off-hours (afternoons, through the night, and Sunday). Dial tel. 1100 for an automated list of three open pharmacies closest to the telephone from which you call.

Farmacia Cola di Rienzo (Via Cola di Rienzo 213, San Pietro, PHONE: 06/3243130).

Farmacia Internazionale Barberini (Piazza Barberini 49, Via Veneto, PHONE: 06/4825456).

Farmacia Internazionale Capranica (Piazza Capranica 96, Pantheon, PHONE: 06/6794680).

Italy is a country teeming with churches, and many of them have significant works of art in them. Because they are places of worship, care should be taken with appropriate dress. Shorts, spaghetti straps, sleeveless garments: these are taboo at St. Peter's, and in many other churches throughout Italy. So, too, are short shorts anywhere. When touring churches -- especially in the summer when it's hot and no sleeves are desirable -- it's wise to carry a sweater, or scarf, to wrap around your shoulders before entering the church. Do not enter a church with food, and do not drink from your water bottle while inside. Do not go in if a service is in progress. And if you have a cellular phone, turn your phone off before entering.

Italians who are friends greet each other with a kiss, usually first on the right cheek, and then on the left. Very good friends then kiss again on the right -- but that's somewhat rare.

Business Etiquette

Showing up on time for business appointments is the norm and expected in Italy. There are more business lunches than business dinners, and even business lunches aren't common, as Italians view mealtimes as periods of pleasure and relaxation. Business cards are used throughout Italy, and business suits are the norm for both men and women.

Smoking

To the dismay of many clean-air-loving travelers, Italians are unrepentant smokers. In 2002, laws were enacted banning smoking in many public places, including bars and restaurants. Compliance has been somewhat arbitrary. If you ask someone to smoke elsewhere or not to smoke in no-smoking areas, don't expect them to respond or respect your request. Your best bet for finding as smoke-free an environment as possible is to stick to large establishments and, weather permitting, to eat outside. If you're a smoker, do check to see if there's a "Vietato Fumare" (No Smoking) sign before lighting up. All FS trains have no-smoking cars: always specify when you make reservations.

Bike Tours

Enjoy Rome (Via Varese 39, 00185 Termini Rome, PHONE: 06/4451843, www.enjoyrome.com) organizes all-day bike tours of Rome for small groups covering major sights and some hidden ones. Remember: Rome isn't famous for it's seven hills for nothing; be prepared for a workout.

Bus Tours

General orientation tours of the city, as well as specialized tours of particular areas such as the Vatican or Ancient Rome, are offered by:

American Express (PHONE: 06/67641).

Appian Line (PHONE: 06/487861).

ATAC (PHONE: 800/431784).

CIT (Piazza della Repubblica 64, Termini, PHONE: 06/4620311, www.citonline.it).

Walking Tours

Walking tours of Rome are available from:

American Express (PHONE: 06/67641).

Enjoy Rome (Via Varese 39, Termini 00185, PHONE: 06/4451843, www.enjoyrome.com).

Scala Reale (Via dell'Olmata 30, Termini 00184, PHONE: 06/4745673 or 800/732-2863 Ext. 4052, www.scalareale.org).

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) in Atlanta caution that most of Southern Europe is in the "intermediate" range for risk of contracting traveler's diarrhea. Part of this risk may be attributed to an increased consumption of olive oil and wine, which can have a laxative effect on stomachs used to a different diet.

As of this writing, there has been one reported case of mad cow disease in a human in Italy. The Italian desire for beef has not abated, and it is eaten with gusto. However, many restaurants and butchers are widening their repertoire of meat dishes. In some places, traditional dishes such as osso buco (braised veal shank), oxtail, and offal specialties have disappeared from restaurants and grocery stores. Vitello (veal), vitellone (young beef), and manzo (beef) are considered safe to eat by both the Italian government and the European Union (these are cuts that don't come in touch with spinal marrow).

Over-the-Counter Remedies

It's always best to travel with your own tried and true medicines. The regulations regarding what medicines require a prescription are not likely to be the same in Italy as in your country -- all the more reason to bring what you need with you. Aspirin (l'aspirina) can be purchased at any pharmacy, but Tylenol and Advil are unavailable.

In the main tourist cities, the language barrier is not a big problem. Most hotels have English speakers at their reception desks, and you can always find someone who speaks at least a little English otherwise. Remember that the Italian language is pronounced exactly as it is written (many Italians try to speak English by enunciating every syllable, with disconcerting results). You may run into a language barrier in the countryside, but a phrase book and close attention to the Italians' astonishing use of pantomime and expressive gestures will go a long way. Try to master a few phrases for daily use.

The Italian mail system is notoriously slow. Allow up to 15 days for mail to and from the United States, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand. It takes about a week to and from the United Kingdom and within Italy. Posta Prioritaria (for Italy and abroad) and Postacelere (for Italy only) are special-delivery services from the post office that guarantee delivery within 24 hours in Italy and four to eight days abroad.

Overnight Services

While DHL and UPS offices are far out of the city center, FedEx has walk-in service on Via Barberini; all three companies will pick up packages from anywhere in Rome. Service is reliable; a Federal Express letter to the United States costs about EUR15, to the United Kingdom, EUR17, and to Australia and New Zealand EUR19. Overnight delivery usually means 24-36 hours.

DHL (800/345345).

Federal Express (Via Barberini 115, Via Veneto, PHONE: 800/123800).

UPS (PHONE: 800/877877).

Postal Rates

Airmail letters and postcards (lightweight stationery) to the United States and Canada cost EUR0.67 for the first 20 grams; for heavier stationery you should go to the post office. Always stick the blue airmail tag on your mail, or write "Airmail" in big, clear characters to the side of the address. Postcards and letters (for the first 20 grams) to the United Kingdom, as well as to any other EU country, including Italy, cost EUR0.41.

You can buy stamps at tobacconists and post offices, including Rome's main post office (Piazza San Silvestro 19, Piazza di Spagna, PHONE: 06/6798495).

.

Informazioni Poste Italiane (PHONE: 160; EUR0.31 for information in Italian about rates and local post offices' opening hours; toll-free 800/009966 for information about Postacelere, www.poste.it) can supply more information.

Receiving Mail

Correspondence can be addressed to you in care of the Italian post office. Letters should be addressed to your name, "c/o Ufficio Postale Centrale," followed by "Fermo Posta" on the next line, and the name of the city (preceded by its postal code) on the next. You can collect it at the central post office by showing your passport or photo-bearing I.D. and paying a small fee. American Express also has a general-delivery service. There's no charge for cardholders, holders of American Express Traveler's checks, or anyone who booked a vacation with American Express.

Shipping Parcels

You can ship parcels via air or surface. Air takes about two weeks, and surface anywhere up to three months. If you have purchased antiques, ceramics, or other objects, inquire to see if the vendor will do the shipping for you; in most cases, this is a possibility.

Admission to the Vatican Museums is EUR9.30. The cheapest seat at Rome's Teatro dell'Opera runs EUR16.55. A movie ticket is EUR6.70. A daily English-language newspaper is EUR1.80. A taxi ride (1 1/3 km, or 1 mi) costs EUR5.15. An inexpensive hotel room for two, including breakfast, is about EUR98; an inexpensive dinner is EUR21, and a ½ liter carafe of house wine, EUR3.10. A simple pasta item runs about EUR6.70, a cup of coffee EUR0.60-0.80, and a rosticceria lunch, about EUR7.75. A Coca-Cola (standing) at a café is EUR1.30-1.80 and a pint of beer is EUR3.60.

ATMs

Fairly common in cities and towns as well as in airports and train stations, ATMs are the easiest way to get euros in Italy. Italian ATMs are reliable, and are commonly attached to a bank -- you won't find one, for example, in a supermarket. Do check with your bank to confirm you have an international personal identification number, to find out your maximum daily withdrawal allowance, and to learn what the bank fee is for withdrawing money. The word for ATM in Italian is bancomat, for PIN, codice segreto.

Currency

Euro notes come in denominations of EUR500, EUR200, EUR100, EUR50, EUR20, EUR10 and EUR5. The euro is divided into 100 cents, and coins are available as EUR2 and EUR1 and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 cents. The euro can be used in 11 other European countries: Austria, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Portugal, and Spain.

Taxes

Hotels

The service charge and the 9% IVA, or VAT tax, are included in the rate except in five-star deluxe hotels, where the IVA (12% on luxury hotels) may be a separate item added to the bill upon departure.

Restaurants

There is no tax added to restaurant bills. You will, however, sometimes find a service charge of approximately 15% added to your check; in some cases the menu may say that the service charge is already included in the menu prices.

Value-Added Tax

Value-added tax (IVA, or VAT) is 20% on clothing, wine, and luxury goods. On consumer goods, it's already included in the amount shown on the price tag, whereas on services it may not be.

Tipping

The following guidelines apply in major cities, but Italians tip smaller amounts in smaller cities and towns. In restaurants a service charge of about 10% sometimes appears as a separate item on your check. Some restaurants say on the menu that cover and service charge are included. Either way, it's customary to leave an additional 5%-10% tip for the waiter, depending on the service. Tip checkroom attendants EUR0.50 per person and rest-room attendants EUR0.25 (more in expensive hotels and restaurants). Depending on where you are (Rome, for example) tip EUR0.05 for whatever you drink standing up at a coffee bar, EUR0.25 or more for table service in cafés. At a hotel bar, tip EUR0.50 and up for a round or two of cocktails.

Italians rarely tip taxi drivers, which is not to say that you shouldn't do it. A euro or two, depending on the length of the journey, is appreciated -- particularly if the driver helps with luggage. Railway and airport porters charge a fixed rate per bag. Tip an additional EUR0.25 per person, and more if the porter is helpful. Give a barber EUR1-EUR1.50 and a hairdresser's assistant EUR1.50-EUR4.15 for a shampoo or cut, depending on the type of establishment.

On sightseeing tours, tip guides about EUR1 per person for a half-day group tour, more if they are very good. In monasteries and other sights where admission is free, a contribution (EUR0.25-EUR0.50) is expected. Service station attendants are tipped only for special services, for example, EUR0.50 for checking your tires.

In hotels, give the portiere (concierge) about 15% of his bill for services, or EUR2.50-EUR5 if he has been generally helpful. For two people in a double room, leave the chambermaid about EUR0.75 per day, or about EUR4.50-EUR5 a week, in a moderately priced hotel; tip a minimum of EUR0.50 for valet or room service. Double amounts in an expensive hotel. In expensive hotels, tip doormen EUR0.50 for calling a cab and EUR1 for carrying bags to the check-in desk, bellhops EUR1.50-EUR2.50 for carrying your bags to the room, and EUR1.50-EUR2.50 for room service.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Italy

Citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, and the United States need only a valid passport to enter Italy for stays of up to 90 days. Citizens of the United Kingdom need only a valid passport to enter Italy for an unlimited stay.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0G3, PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Public rest rooms are rather rare in Italy; the locals seem to make do with well-timed pit stops and rely on the local bar. Although private businesses can refuse to make their toilets available to the passing public, some bars will allow you to use the rest room if you ask politely. Alternatively, it is not uncommon to pay for a little something -- a few cents for a mineral water or coffee -- to get access to the facilities. Standards of cleanliness and comfort vary greatly. In cities, restaurants, hotel halls, department stores such as La Rinascente and Coin, and McDonald's restaurants tend to have the cleanest rest rooms. Pubs and bars rank among the worst. In general, it's in your interest to carry tissues with you. There are bathrooms in all airports and train stations (in major train stations you'll also find well-kept pay toilets for EUR0.25-0.50) and in most museums. There are also bathrooms at highway rest stops and gas stations: a small tip to the cleaning person is always appreciated. There are no bathrooms in churches, post offices, public beaches, or subway stations. Pay toilets in the city center of Italian towns are the exception, not the rule.

The best way to protect yourself against purse snatchers and pickpockets is to wear a concealed money belt or a pouch on a string around your neck. Don't wear an exterior money belt or a waist pack, both of which peg you as a tourist. If you carry a bag or camera, be absolutely sure it has straps; you should sling it across your body bandolier-style, adjusting the height to hip level or higher. Always be astutely aware of pickpockets, especially when in city buses and subways, when making your way through train corridors, and in busy piazzas.

If you carry a purse or wallet, store only enough money there to cover casual spending. Distribute the rest of your cash and any valuables (including credit cards and your passport) between a deep front pocket, an inside jacket or vest pocket, and a hidden money pouch. Do not reach for the money pouch while in public.

Local Scams

A word of caution: "gypsy" children, who hang around sights popular with tourists throughout Europe, are rife in Rome and are adept pickpockets. One modus operandi is to approach a tourist and proffer a piece of cardboard with writing on it. While the unsuspecting victim attempts to read the message on it, the children's hands are busy under it, trying to make off with purses or valuables. If you see such a group (recognizable by their unkempt appearance), do not even allow them near you -- they are quick and know more tricks than you do. Also be aware of persons, usually young men, who ride by on motorbikes, grab the shoulder strap of your bag or camera, and step on the gas. Wear or carry your bag on the side away from the street edge of the sidewalk, or, best of all, wear a concealed money belt. Don't carry more money than you need, and don't carry your passport unless you need it to exchange money. A useful expression to ward off pesky panhandlers or vendors is "Vai via!" (Go away!).

Women in Rome

Foreign women can expect to attract extra attention from Italian men, but this is usually harmless flirtation, and rarely will become a safety issue. Use common sense.

The country code for Italy is 39. The area code for Rome is 06. When dialing an Italian number from abroad, do not drop the initial 0 from the local area code (as was formerly the procedure). A call from New York City to Rome would be dialed as 011 + 39 + 06 + phone number.

Directory & Operator Information

For general information in English, dial 176. To place international telephone calls via operator-assisted service, dial 170 or long-distance access numbers.

International Calls

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

Since hotels tend to overcharge for long-distance and international calls, it's best to make such calls from public phones, using telephone cards.

You can make collect calls from any phone by dialing 172-1011, which will get you an English-speaking operator. Rates to the United States are lowest on Sunday around the clock and 10 PM-8 AM (Italian time) on weekdays and Saturday.

From major Italian cities, you can place a direct call to the United States by reversing the charges or using your phone credit card number. When calling from pay telephones, insert a coin, which will be returned upon completion of your call. You automatically reach an operator in the country of destination and thereby avoid all language difficulties.

Long-Distance Calls

For all calls within Italy -- local and long distance -- you must dial the regional area code (prefisso), which begins with a 0, such as 06 for Rome. If you are calling from a public phone you must deposit a coin or use a calling card to get a dial tone. Rates are different at various times during the day; it's cheaper to call within Italy during nonworking hours (before 9 AM and after 7 or 8 PM, and it's cheaper to dial internationally at these times.

Access codes include:

AT&T Direct (PHONE: 172-1011).

MCI WorldPhone (PHONE: 172-1022).

Sprint International Access (PHONE: 172-1877).

Public Phones

Some pay phones accept only coins,others only carte telefoniche, so it's smart have both ready.

Prepaid carte telefoniche (calling cards) are prevalent throughout Italy and more convenient than coins. You buy the card (values vary -- EUR2.58, EUR5.16, and so on) at post offices, tobacconists, most news stalls, and bars. Tear off the corner of the card and insert it in the slot. The cards may be used in almost every public pay phone. When you dial, its value appears in the window. After you hang up, the card is returned so you can use it until its value runs out. The phone card called Time Europa is a good value, allowing you to call Europe and the United States at only EUR0.28 per minute during peak hours.

Tourist Offices

In Rome

Tourist office (Azienda di Promozione Turistica di Roma/APT; Via Parigi 5, Termini, PHONE: 06/48899255, open Monday to Saturday 9-7; Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci, PHONE: 06/65956074, open daily 8:15-7; general English-language information PHONE: 06/36004399).

At Home

Italian Government Tourist Board (ENIT; 630 Fifth Ave., Suite 1565, New York, NY 10111, PHONE: 212/245-4822, FAX: 212/586-9249; 401 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611, PHONE: 312/644-0996, FAX: 312/644-3019; 12400 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 550, Los Angeles, CA 90025, PHONE: 310/820-1898, FAX: 310/820-6357; 175 Bloor St. East, Suite 907, South Tower, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3R8, PHONE: 416/925-4882, FAX: 416/925-4799; 1 Princes St., London W1R 8AY, PHONE: 020/7408-1254, FAX: 020/7493-6695, www.italiantourism.com).

The main tourist season runs from April to mid-October. For serious sightseers the best months are from fall to early spring. The so-called low season may be cooler and inevitably rainier, but it has its rewards: less time waiting in line and more time to enjoy closer-up, unhurried views of what you want to see.

Tourists crowd the major art cities at Easter, when Italians flock to resorts and to the country. From March through May, busloads of eager schoolchildren on excursions take cities of artistic and historical interest by storm.

Weatherwise, the best months for sightseeing are April, May, June, September, and October -- generally pleasant and not too hot. The hottest months are July and August, when humidity can make things unpleasant. Winters are relatively mild in most places on the main tourist circuit but always include some rainy spells.

If you can avoid it, don't travel at all in Italy in August, when much of the population is on the move, especially around Ferragosto, the August 15 national holiday, when Rome is deserted and many restaurants and shops are closed. (Of course, with residents away on vacation, this makes crowds less of a bother for tourists.)

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Rome:

January 40-52°F (5-11°C); February 42-55°F (6-13°C); March 45-59°F (7-15°C); April 50-66°F (10-19°C); May 56-74°F (13-23°C); June 63-82°F (17-28°C); July 67-87°F (20-30°C); August 67-86°F (20-30°C); September 62-79°F (17-26°C); October 55-71°F (13-22°C); November 49-61°F (10-16°C); December 44-55°F (6-13°C).

Holidays

National holidays include New Year's Day; January 6 (Epiphany); Easter Sunday and Monday; April 25 (Liberation Day); May 1 (Labor Day or May Day); August 15 (Assumption of Mary, better known as Ferragosto); November 1 (All Saints' Day); December 8 (Immaculate Conception); Christmas Day and Boxing Day.

The feast days of patron saints are observed locally. Many businesses and shops may be closed in Rome on June 29 (Feast of Sts. Peter and Paul).

Although most of Rome's sights are in a relatively circumscribed area, the city is too large to be seen solely on foot. Take the metro (subway), a bus, or a taxi to the area you plan to visit, and expect to do a lot of walking once you're there. Wear a pair of comfortable, sturdy shoes to cushion the impact of the sampietrini (cobblestones). Heed the advice above on security. Get away from the noise and polluted air of heavily trafficked streets by taking parallel streets whenever possible. You can get free city and transportation-route maps at municipal information booths; the transportation maps are probably more up-to-date than those you can buy at newsstands.

Rome's integrated Metrebus transportation system includes buses and trams (ATAC), metro and suburban trains and buses (COTRAL), and some other suburban trains (Trenitalia), all of which are run by the state railways. Try to avoid the rush hours (8-9, 1-2:30, 7-8), and beware of pickpockets and gropers (who take advantage of the cramped buses to push up against women), especially when boarding and getting off cars or vehicles, particularly on the metro and on Buses 64 (Termini-Vatican) and 218 and 660 (Catacombs). When purchasing tickets for excursions outside Rome on COTRAL buses or trains, buy a return ticket, too, to save time at the other end.

A ticket valid for 75 minutes on any combination of buses and trams and one entrance to the metro costs EUR0.75. You are supposed to date-stamp your ticket when you board the first vehicle, stamping it again when boarding for the last time within 75 minutes (the important thing is to stamp it the first time). Tickets for the Metrebus system are sold at tobacconists, newsstands, some coffee bars, automatic ticket machines positioned in metro stations and some bus stops, and at ATAC and COTRAL ticket booths (in some metro stations, on the lower concourse at Stazione Termini, and at a few main bus terminals). A BIG tourist ticket, valid for one day on all public transport, costs EUR3.10. A weekly ticket (Settimanale, also known as CIS) costs EUR12.40 and can be purchased only at ATAC booths.

Addresses in Italy are fairly straightforward: the street is followed by the street number. However, you might see an address with a number plus "bis" or "A"; for instance, "Via Verdi 3/bis" or "Via Mazzini 8/A." This indicates that 3/bis and 8/A are the next door down from Via Verdi 3 and Via Mazzini 8, respectively.

ATAC (PHONE: 800/431784 toll free) city buses and tram lines run from about 6 AM to midnight, with night buses (indicated "N") on some lines. A 75-minute ticket costs EUR0.75. The compact electric buses of Lines 117 and 119 take handy routes through the center of Rome that can save lots of walking.

The orange-and-blue J-Line (PHONE: 800/076287 toll free) buses, which are not part of the ATAC system, are a big help to visitors; their three lines run from 7 AM to 9 PM or so, and take you to some of the major sites and basilicas, with stops at St. Peters, the Forum, and along Via Corso. Tickets cost EUR0.98 for 75 minutes or EUR2.43 for a day pass, and are available at newsstands and tobacconists; ATAC tickets are not valid on the J-Line.

Italians drive fast and are impatient with those who don't, a tendency that can make driving on the congested streets of Rome a hair-raising experience. Traffic is heaviest in morning and late-afternoon commuter hours, and on weekends. Watch out for mopeds.

Renting a car is not necessary if you plan to stick to city travel. Signage on country roads is usually good, but be prepared for fast and impatient fellow drivers.

Car Rentals

Fiats in a variety of sizes are the most typical rental cars. Remember that most Italian cars have standard transmissions. If you want to rent an automatic, you must specify so when you reserve the car. Higher rates will apply.

In Rome

Avis (PHONE: 06/42824728).

Europcar (PHONE: 800/014410).

Hertz (PHONE: 199/112211).

Maggiore (PHONE: 848/867067).

Thrifty (PHONE: 06/4820966).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/522-9696; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 09/256-8690 in New Zealand; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Insurance

Note that in Italy, all car-rental companies make you buy theft-protection policies.

Requirements

In Italy your own country's driver's license is acceptable. An International Driver's Permit is nonetheless not a bad idea; it's available from the American or Canadian Automobile Association and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club. These international permits are universally recognized, and having one in your wallet may save you a problem with the local authorities.

In Italy you must be 21 years of age to rent an economy or subcompact car, and most companies require customers under the age of 23 to pay by credit card. Upon rental, all companies require credit cards as a warranty; to rent bigger cars (2,000 cc or more), you must often show two credit cards. Call local agents for details. There are no special restrictions on senior-citizen drivers.

Parking

Parking space is at a premium in most towns, especially in the centri storici (historic centers), which are filled with narrow streets and restricted circulation zones. It is often a good idea (if not the only option) to park your car in a designated (preferably attended) lot. Parking in an area signposted zona disco (disk zone) is allowed for limited periods (from 30 minutes to two hours or more -- the limit is posted); if you don't have the cardboard disk (inquire at the local tourist office) to show what time you parked, you can use a piece of paper. The parcometro, the Italian version of metered parking in which you put coins into a machine for a stamped ticket that you leave on the dashboard, has been introduced in some cities. It's advisable to leave your car only in guarded parking areas.

Road Conditions

Italy has an extensive network of autostrade (toll highways), complemented by equally well maintained but free superstrade (expressways). The ticket you are issued upon entering an autostrada must be returned when you exit and pay the toll; on some shorter autostrade, mainly connecting highways, the toll is paid upon entering. Viacard cards, on sale at many autostrada locations, make paying tolls easier and faster. A raccordo is a ring road surrounding a city. Strade statali (state highways, denoted by S or SS numbers) may be single-lane roads, as are all secondary roads; directions and turnoffs are not always clearly marked.

Autostrade are well maintained, as are most interregional highways. The condition of provincial (county) roads varies, but road maintenance at this level is generally good in Italy. Street and road signs are often challenging -- a good map and patience are essential.

Rules of the Road

Driving is on the right. Regulations are largely as in Britain and the United States, except that the police have the power to levy on-the-spot fines. In most Italian towns the use of the horn is forbidden in certain, if not all, areas; a large sign, zona di silenzio, indicates where. Speed limits are 130 kph (80 mph) on autostrade and 110 kph (70 mph) on state and provincial roads, unless otherwise marked. Fines for driving after drinking are heavy, including the suspension of license and the additional possibility of six months' imprisonment. Enforcement of these laws varies depending on region; fines, however, are stiff: 10 kilometers over the speed limit can be worth a fine of up to EUR500; over 10 kilometers, and your license could be taken away from you.

Tailgating is the norm here -- the only way to avoid it is to get out of the way. Right turns on red lights are forbidden. Headlights are not compulsory when it's raining and snowing, but it's always a good idea to turn them on. Both seat belts and children's car seats for children under three are compulsory. Car seats must be booked in advance. The cost is generally about EUR36 for the duration of the rental.

Parking fines can be stiff, and are strictly enforced, particularly in cities and major tourist towns. Towing is common, and often the places where the cars are towed are difficult to get to, so it's simply not worth it to take a risk.

The metro (subway) is the easiest and fastest way to get around, and there are stops near most of the main tourist attractions. Service begins at 5:30 AM, and the last trains leave the most distant station at 11:30 PM (on Saturday night, trains run until 12:30 AM). There are two lines -- A and B -- which intersect at Stazione Termini. The fare is EUR0.75.

Zipping and careening through traffic on a motorino (moped) in downtown Rome is a dream way to visit the city for some, but if you're risk averse, pass on it. If your impulses -- and reflexes -- are fast, you can join the craziness of Roman traffic by renting a moped and the mandatory helmet at numerous rental spots throughout the city. Be extremely careful of pedestrians when riding: Romans are casual jay-walkers and pop out frequently from between parked cars.

Moped rentals are available from:

Enjoy Rome (Via Varese 39, 00185 Termini Rome, PHONE: 06/4451843, www.enjoyrome.com).

Happy Rent (Piazza Esquilino 8/h, Termini, PHONE: 06/4818185, www.happyrent.it).

Scoot-a-Long (Via Cavour 302, Termini, PHONE: 06/6780206).

St. Peter's Motor Rent (Via di Porta Castello 43, San Pietro, PHONE: 06/6875714).

Taxis in Rome do not cruise, but if empty (look for an illuminated "taxi" sign on the roof) they will stop if you flag them down. Taxis wait at stands and can also be called by phone (06/5551, 06/3570, 06/4994, or 06/88177), in which case you're charged a bit more. The meter starts at EUR2.33 from 7 AM to 10 PM, at EUR3.36 on Sunday and holidays, and at EUR4.91 after 10 PM. Each piece of baggage will add an extra EUR2.03 to your fare.

Use only licensed, metered yellow or white cabs, identified by a numbered shield on the side, an illuminated taxi sign on the roof, and a plaque next to the license plate reading servizio pubblico. Avoid unmarked, unauthorized, unmetered gypsy cabs (numerous at airports and train stations), whose renegade drivers actively solicit your trade and may demand astronomical fares. Some taxis accept some credit cards, but you must specify when calling that you will pay that way.