Singapore offers the best feast in the East. You'll find restaurants that serve the local Nonya (or Peranakan) fare, a delicious combination of Chinese and Malaysian influences; others that specialize in cuisine from all parts of Asia; and still others that offer European and American dishes. Some cultures consider atmosphere, decor, and service more important than food. In Singapore, however, the food's the thing, and its enjoyment is a national pastime. You're as likely to find gourmet cooking (and high standards of cleanliness) in unpretentious food stalls as you are in elegant eateries.
Many of the poshest restaurants are in hotels. Such establishments offer fine dining, complete with the freshest ingredients, displays of roses and orchids, polished silver and gleaming crystal, waiters dressed in tuxedos, and impeccable service. In sit-down restaurants, plan on small servings of four to five dishes for four people or three dishes for two people. Food is either served family-style -- placed all at once at the center of the table so everyone can dig in -- or, for more formal meals, served a course at a time, again with diners sharing from a single dish at the center of the table. Each diner is given a plate or bowl of rice. Most restaurants are open from noon to 2:30 or 3 for lunch and from 6:30 to 10:30 PM (last order) for dinner.
For classic, time-honored cooking minus the usual "service with a smile" and linen tablecloths, head to Geylang in the eastern part of Singapore. Hawker stalls abound, serving kway teow and noodles and rice of every variety; for chile eaters, popiah or rojak are popular choices. On the weekends, Geylang is a 24-hour food fest, in full swing at 2 AM. The locals come here to eat before retiring, and are often seen lining up at their favorite stalls. Nearby, at the Paya Lebar subway (MRT) stop, is the Malay Village. Here you will find an excellent variety of Malay/Indonesian specialties -- nasi goreng, nasi padang, rendang, atchar -- served in copious amounts.
Prices are per person for a three-course meal excluding tax, service charge, and drinks.
