The major gateway to Singapore is Changi International Airport (SIN) (PHONE: 542-1122; 542-4422 for general flight information), on the eastern end of the island.

Flying west, Singapore is 22 hours from Chicago, 18 hours from Los Angeles, 17 hours from Vancouver, 10½ hours from Auckland and Christchurch, and 8 hours from Sydney. The flying time east from New York is 19 hours; from London it's 13 hours.

Carriers

China Airlines (PHONE: 800/227-5118).

Japan Airlines (PHONE: 800/525-3663).

Korean Air (PHONE: 800/438-5000).

Malaysia Airlines (PHONE: 800/552-9264).

Northwest Airlines (PHONE: 800/225-2525).

Singapore Airlines (PHONE: 800/742-3333), the national carrier, offers direct, one-stop flights from Los Angeles and New York to Singapore.

Thai Airways International (PHONE: 800/426-5204).

United Airlines (PHONE: 800/241-6522) has direct one-stop flights from Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Seattle, and connecting flights (one stop, with a change in Tokyo) from New York and Chicago.

From Australia and New Zealand

Air New Zealand (PHONE: 0800/737000; 0800/352266 in New Zealand; 132476 in Australia).

Malaysia Airlines (PHONE: 0800/777-747 in New Zealand).

Qantas (PHONE: 008/808767 in New Zealand; 131313 in Australia).

Thai Airways (300/651-960 in Australia).

From Canada

Cathay Pacific (PHONE: 800/233-2742).

From the U.K.

British Airways (PHONE: 0845/773-3377 or 0845/722-2111).

Thai Airways (PHONE: 020/7499-9113).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Bus

The AIRBUS (S$5) runs three different routes to and from all major hotels (PHONE: 542-1721), 8:20 AM-10:30 PM or 6:30 AM-11:10 PM for the city to airport run, depending on the route, and slightly different hours for the airport to city run.

By Taxi

Under normal traffic conditions, the trip to and from the airport by taxi takes 20 to 30 minutes. Fares range from S$13 to S$20, plus a S$3 airport surcharge (S$5 Fri.-Sun. before 5 PM, but not applicable any time for trips to the airport). Other surcharges apply when baggage is stored in the trunk or when more than two adults travel in the same cab.

There are some 14 international cruise lines that visit Singapore, including Crystal Cruises of Los Angeles, Cunardline of New York, and Universal Boss of Hong Kong.

The dominant cruise operator out of Singapore to points in Malaysia, Indonesia, and Thailand is Star Cruises (1 Shenton Way, No. 01-02 Robina House, PHONE: 223-0002 or 226-1168).

For further information on regional and local cruises or boat services, contact the Singapore Cruise Centre at World Trade Centre (PHONE: 321-2802).

Ferrylink (PHONE: 545-3622 or 337-1759) plies between Changi Point in Singapore and Tanjong Belungkor in the eastern corner of Johor and other places on the coast of peninsular Malaysia. Most check-ins are an hour before sailing time.

Air-conditioned buses between Singapore and Malaysia are comfortable. The nearest city to Singapore, under an hour, is Johor Bahru ("JB").

The Singapore-Johor Bahru Express (PHONE: 292-8149) runs every seven minutes from 6:30 AM to midnight; the cost is only S$2.10 one way.

The Malacca-Singapore Express (PHONE: 293-5915) takes about 4½ hours, costs S$11 one way, and leaves seven times daily.

The Kuala Lumpur-Singapore Express (PHONE: 292-8254) leaves mornings, afternoons, and nights from Singapore, is S$25 one way, and takes about six hours.

If you're driving into Singapore from Malaysia, your Malaysian-registered car must have a valid VEP (Vehicle Entry Permit). Upon entering Singapore, you can obtain a free five-day VEP at the Land Transport Authority (LTA; 10 Sin Ming Drive, PHONE: 553-5337 (VEP HQ); 269-0279 (Woodlands); 545-3917 (Changi)) booths at Woodlands Checkpoint or Changi Ferry Terminal. VEPs for weekday nights, weekends, and holidays are also free. Further extensions can be obtained from the LTA booth at PHONE: 375-7100, and at designated post offices for S$30 a day. Tolls from S$1-S$2.50 are required on both sides of the Causeway link (Woodlands in Singapore) and the Second Link (Tuas in Singapore). Prepaid toll coupons for the Singapore side are available at post offices and gas stations. Cars driving into Malaysia must not leave Singapore with gas tanks less than three-quarters full.

Trains run regularly between Singapore and key cities in western Peninsular Malaysia, including the capital, Kuala Lumpur (called "KL"), and JB. There are four daily departures to JB; the trip takes about an hour and costs roughly S$3 one way. The air-conditioned express train to KL also leaves mornings, afternoons, and nights (sleepers are comfortable). The trip takes about six hours, and the first-class one-way fare is S$68, second-class S$34. For further information, call Malayan Railway (PHONE: 222-5165).

E&OE Services (PHONE: 392-3500 or 323-4390), the company that operates the Venice Simplon-Orient Express, runs the deluxe Eastern & Oriental Express; the train travels between Singapore and Bangkok, and on to Chiang Mai, Thailand, once a week, with stops in KL and in Butterworth, Malaysia, permitting an excursion to Penang. The 1,943-km (1,200-mi) journey takes 41 hours. Fares, which vary according to cabin type and include meals, start at S$2,350 per person one way to Bangkok.

Banks & Offices

In general, banks open weekdays 9:30-3 or 4 and Saturday 9:30-11 AM. However, branches of the Development Bank of Singapore stay open until 3 PM on Saturday, and the bank at Changi Airport is open whenever there are flights.

Businesses are generally open weekdays 9 or 9:30 to 5 or 5:30; a few are also open on Saturday morning.

Museums & Sights

Many museums close on Monday; otherwise, they're generally open 9 to 4:30 or 5:30, and often till 9 PM on Wednesdays.

Pharmacies

Registered pharmacists work 9-6, though some pharmacies in the major shopping centers stay open until 10 PM.

Post Offices

Of the 87 post offices on the island, most are open weekdays 8:30-5 and Saturday 8:30-1. The branch at the airport is open 8-8 and the office at the start of Killiney Road, just off Orchard Road opposite Orchard Point shopping center, is open Sundays and nights.

Shops

Hours of operation for shops vary. Department stores and many shops in big shopping centers are generally open daily from about 10 AM to 9 PM (sometimes later on weekends); smaller shops close on Sunday.

Arriving in Singapore

Duty-free allowances include 1 liter each of spirits, wine, and beer (applies to visitors over 18); all personal effects; and less than S$50 in foodstuffs such as chocolates, biscuits, and cakes.

The following imports are prohibited: drugs; pornography (including such publications as Playboy and Playgirl); seditious and treasonable materials; toy coins and currency notes; cigarette lighters of pistol/revolver shapes; reproductions of copyrighted publications, videotapes, records, or cassettes; duty-free cigarettes; and chewing gum in amounts deemed large enough for resale, chewing tobacco and imitation tobacco products, and endangered species of wildlife and their by-products. Special import permits are required for animals, live plants, meats, arms, and controlled drugs. (Penalties for drug abuse are very severe in Singapore -- mandatory death for trafficking, defined by possession of fixed amounts -- and are rigidly enforced.) Customs is also extremely strict regarding the import of any form of firearms, including such items as ceremonial daggers purchased as souvenirs in other countries. These are held in bond and returned to you on your departure. There are no import (or export) restrictions or limitations on the amount of cash, foreign currencies, checks, and drafts.

The electrical current in Singapore is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC), like that in Australia and Great Britain. If you're a resident of North America, bring an adapter and converter; if your appliances are dual voltage, bring just an adapter. Wall outlets take a variety of plug styles, including plugs with two round oversize prongs and plugs with three square-tipped prongs. Many hotels lend guests adapters and converters.

Most countries maintain a diplomatic mission in Singapore. Call ahead to confirm hours; most are closed Saturday. If you hope to obtain visas for neighboring countries, be aware that the visa-application process at Singapore consular offices may take several days.

Australia (25 Napier Rd., PHONE: 836-4100).

Canada (80 Anson Rd., PHONE: 325-3200).

New Zealand (No. 15/06-10, Tower A, 391A Orchard Rd., PHONE: 235-9966).

United Kingdom (100 Tanglin Rd., PHONE: 473-9333).

United States (27 Napier Rd., PHONE: 476-9100).

Ambulance and fire: PHONE: 995.

Police: PHONE: 999.

Hospitals & Doctors

Most hotels have their own doctor on 24-hour call.

Gleneagles Hospital (6A Napier Rd., PHONE: 473-7222).

Mount Alvernia Hospital (820 Thomson Rd., PHONE: 359-7910.

Mount Elizabeth Hospital (Mount Elizabeth, PHONE: 737-2666.

Raffles Medical Group (182 Clemenceau Ave., PHONE: 334-3337 24-hour clinic/emergency center; 334-3333 SurgiCentre) has 29 clinics and operates the Raffles SurgiCentre, a private hospital on Clemenceau Avenue near the Dhoby Ghaut MRT station.

Singapore General Hospital (Outram Rd., PHONE: 222-3322).

You'd do well to bring along a stash of business cards -- it seems like everyone exchanges them, even people who are on vacation. It's proper to offer your business card using both hands with the card facing the recipient. Likewise, when a card is offered to you, accept it with both hands and make it a point to read the card. This shows your respect for the person's title and position.

Don't use your left hand for shaking or giving something to a Malay or an Indonesian, or for eating (that is the hand used to wash the private parts after relieving oneself). It's safer to refrain from kissing or touching the opposite sex, as some communities might be offended. Members of the same sex and community commonly hold hands or interact affectionately, but this is not sexual.

If you're invited for dinner by Chinese friends or business acquaintances, it's proper etiquette to leave some food on the plate or in the bowl, to indicate that your host's generosity is so great, you cannot eat another bite. There is no shame in asking for a knife and fork instead of chopsticks. Chinese tea is generally served throughout the meal. Unlike in the West, dinner-table conversation about money and business is common.

Be aware that although you will see garbage on the streets in certain sections of the city, littering is against the law and can nab you a S$1,000 fine. Similarly, consuming food or drink or smoking on the transit systems (this includes subway platforms) is not allowed. Nonsmoking rules are widespread -- especially in movie theaters, elevators, lines, offices, and restaurants. Although chewing gum is not sold anywhere, you may bring it in for personal use -- just dispose of it properly!

You can get a fuller cultural briefing from the locally published paperback Culture Shock! Singapore, part of an excellent series published by Times Books/Times Editions.

A wide range of sightseeing tours covers the highlights of Singapore and are a good introduction to the island. Tours can take two hours or the whole day, and prices range from S$28 to S$80. Most are operated in comfortable, air-conditioned coaches with guides and include pickup and return. Tour agencies can also arrange private-car tours with guides; these are considerably more expensive. There's no need to book tours in advance of your visit; they can be easily arranged through the tour desks in hotels. Also, if you're only in Singapore on a six-hour stopover, the tourist board offers free city tours from Changi Airport. See the STB Desk there.

Most of the following companies market the latest tour ideas (mostly half-day tours, averaging S$30-S$35 per head) being promoted by the Singapore Tourism Board, often highlighting cuisine, art, and culture.

Gray Line Tours (PHONE: 331-8203).

Holiday Tours (PHONE: 738-2622).

Malaysia and Singapore Travel Centre (PHONE: 737-8877).

RMG Tours (PHONE: 220-1661).

SH Tours (PHONE: 734-9923).

Singapore Sightseeing Tour East (PHONE: 332-3755).

Singapore Trolley (PHONE: 339-6833).

Worldlink Travel (PHONE: 299-6698).

Tap water is safe, and every eating establishment -- from the most elegant hotel dining room to the smallest sidewalk stall -- is regularly inspected by the very strict health authorities. But if your stomach is delicate, watch out for the powerful local chilli sambals (chili pastes) and take care with shellfish. As anywhere in Asia, it's a good idea to maintain hepatitis immunization.

Although there is virtually no malaria risk in Singapore, there are occasional flare-ups of dengue, or "breakbone fever," so take care to protect yourself at all times from mosquitoes. If you plan to visit Bintan Island, Indonesia, you'll need to take precautions against malaria. Check with your doctor about medication before you leave home and pack plenty of bug spray. Note, however, that resorts on the island will have netting, insect repellent, and mosquito coils.

When swimming the waters of Singapore's offshore islands, be aware not only of the water quality but also of the strong undercurrents in some places.

Singapore is a multiracial society with four official languages: Malay, Mandarin, Tamil, and English. The national language is Malay, but the lingua franca is English. It's used in administration, is a required course for every schoolchild, and is used in entrance exams for universities. Hence, virtually all Singaporeans speak English with varying degrees of fluency. Mandarin is increasingly replacing the other Chinese dialects, especially among the young. At street level, Singaporeans young and old communicate in "Singlish," a vibrant Singaporean "creole" version of English that has its own cross-cultural vocabulary and structure.

Postal Rates

Most hotels sell stamps and mail guests' letters. You can buy postage, stationery, and certain types of driving permits at some post offices. Postage on local letters up to 20 grams (0.8 ounces) is S$0.22. Airmail takes about seven business days to reach North America and Great Britain. An airmail postcard costs S$0.50; larger cards are S$1. A letter up to 20 grams is S$0.35 to Malaysia or Brunei, S$0.40 to other foreign countries. Printed aerogram letters (available at most post offices) are S$0.45. Note that delivery of small packets, printed paper, and parcels (both international and domestic mail) isn't regulated; service for such items is provided by several courier companies as well as Singapore Post.

Receiving Mail

If you know which hotel you'll be staying at, have mail sent there marked "Hold for Arrival."

American Express cardholders or travelers' check users can have mail sent care of American Express International (The Concourse, No. 18-01/07, 300 Beach Rd., 199555, PHONE: 299-8133). Envelopes should be marked "Client Mail."

For more postal information, contact the General Post Office (GPO; No. 05-12750 Chai Chee Industrial Park, Chai Chee Rd., 469000, PHONE: 448-7733 Ext. 165 to postal inquiries line). The new GPO is in the suburbs; a phone inquiry is your best bet.

Writing to Singapore

In 1997, Singapore began using a six-digit postal code; it's important to include this on any correspondence (inquiries to tel. 800/842-7678; a guide is available from post offices). Addresses can be written either with the number and street following the name of the person or company, with the second or third line used for the name of the building: "XYZ Sales Office, No. 16-00 Cable Car Towers, 3 Maritime Square, Singapore 099254" or "ABC Cable Car (Pte) Ltd., 333 Orchard Rd., No. 03-10 Mandarin Hotel Shopping Arcade, Singapore 238867." Note that in the last address, "No. 03-10" refers to the third floor, office number 10; the abbreviation "Pte" (which is used in many business names) indicates a privately owned company.

Costs

Singapore ranks up there with other world capitals as far as expenses go. Although good meals cost a little less than you would pay in Paris, hotel room prices are in the New York and London ranges. You can keep costs down by eating at hawker food centers, especially those in the major shopping malls, and by using public transportation. Many hotels offer special promotional rates, corporate rates, or weekend rates; always ask about such deals before booking.

Currency

The local currency is the Singapore dollar (S$), which is divided into 100 cents. Notes in circulation are S$1, S$2, S$5, S$10, S$20, S$50, S$100, S$500, S$1,000, and S$10,000. Coins: S$0.01, S$0.05, S$0.20, S$0.50, and S$1. A recent exchange rate was S$0.99 to the Australian dollar, S$1.14 to the Canadian dollar, S$.70 to the New Zealand dollar, S$1.70 to the U.S. dollar, S$2.57 to the pound sterling, and S$1.55 to the Euro.

Exchanging Money

For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. Although ATM transaction fees may be higher abroad than at home, ATM rates are excellent because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores.

Taxes

There's a 3% sales tax, called the Goods and Services Tax (GST). You can get the tax refunded at Global Refund Singapore counters in the airport as you leave the country, for purchases of more than S$300 made at a store or retail chain displaying the Tax Free Shopping sticker (you can pool individual receipts for S$100 or more). (Ask for a Tax Free Shopping Cheque to be completed, and show the goods and the checks at the airport departure terminal for customs inspection.) You can cash the checks at the airport refund counters; opt for a bank check via mail; or ask for a refund to a specific credit card, although a surcharge may be levied for this. This government tax is also added to restaurant and hotel bills, as is a 10% service charge (except by hawker stalls and small restaurants).

You're also subject to a S$15 airport departure tax (for travelers to Malaysia, the tax is S$5), which -- if it's not already included in the price of your ticket -- is payable at the airport (to save time and avoid standing in line, buy a tax voucher at your hotel or any airline office).

Tipping

Tipping isn't customary in Singapore. It's prohibited at the airport and discouraged in hotels (except for bellboys, who generally receive S$1 per bag) or restaurants that levy the 10% service charge. Unlike in other countries, waitstaffs don't receive a percentage of this service charge, except in the more progressive establishments, which need to retain the best waiters and waitresses. Hence, after experiencing some Singapore service you may begin to wish that tipping was the norm. Taxi drivers don't receive tips from Singaporeans, some of whom become upset when they see tourists tip.

Entering Singapore

Visas aren't required for stays of up to 14 days for Canadian, U.K., U.S., Australian, and New Zealand citizens. You may automatically be given a 30-day social visit pass upon your arrival if you come from any of these countries; if you arrive in Singapore from Malaysia, Indonesia, or Thailand, your passport may be stamped for only 14 days. Be sure to carry an onward or return air ticket, and sufficient funds.

If you require a longer stay, you may apply to Singapore Immigration (10 Kallang Rd., PHONE: 800/391-6100) after your arrival. Women who are in an advanced stage of pregnancy (six months or more) should make prior application to the nearest Singapore overseas mission or the Singapore Immigration Department.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.dfat.gov.au/passports).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.ukpa.gov.uk) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Singapore is a safe place to walk around unaccompanied at night. Like everywhere else, however, precautions should be taken after midnight, when subway and bus service stops. Taxis can be flagged, but you'll see more of them in the city center than in the suburbs. Women aren't normally harassed, but conservative attire is recommended in neighborhoods such as Little India and the Arab District in deference to conservative religious customs. Jaywalk at your own risk; Singapore drivers don't slow down or stop to let you cross the street.

Calls to Singapore

To call Singapore from overseas, first dial your national IDD access code, then the country code, 65, then the number (Singapore has no area codes). The country code for Indonesia is 62; the area code for Bintan is 771. For Malaysia the country code is 60.

Local Calls

From a pay phone, the cost is S$0.10; insert a coin and dial the seven-digit number. Hotels charge anywhere from S$0.10 to S$0.50 a call. (There are free public phones at Changi Airport, just past immigration.) Many pay phones only accept phone cards; the coin-operated phones are smaller and frequently found in shopping malls and at information desks. Phone cards in a variety of denominations are sold at most kiosks, newsstands, and gift shops. For directory assistance, simply dial 100.

Long-Distance and International Calls

To make direct overseas calls dial 001 and then the country code and the number; if you'd like operator assistance, dial 104. The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

To save money on calls overseas, use the Home Country Direct service available from your hotel room or any public phone. This puts you in touch with an operator in your home country who places your call, charging either your home phone or your credit card. You can also use pay phones by first depositing S$0.10 and then dialing 8000-111-11 to reach a U.S. operator or 8000-440-440 for a British operator. Note also that some public phones at the airport and many at city post offices accept Diners Club, MasterCard, and Visa.

To avoid hefty hotel service charges, use the SingTel (Singapore Telecom; PHONE: 838-3388) phone card if you plan to make lots of long-distance calls during your stay. The cards are available in denominations of S$2, S$5, S$10, S$20, and S$50 and permit you to make both local and overseas calls. The price of each call is deducted from the card total, and your balance is roughly indicated by the punched hole in the card. Phone cards are available from post offices, some newsstands, SingTel customer services outlets, and drugstores.

Tourist Offices

In Singapore

In Singapore, the Singapore Tourism Board (STB) (Tourism Court, 1 Orchard Spring La., Singapore 247729, PHONE: 736-6622 or 800/736-2000, www.stb.com.sg) has staff members ready to answer any questions you may have and to attend to legitimate complaints. The offices are open daily from 8:30 AM to 7 PM.

At Home

Australia (235 Queen St., Level 1, Melbourne, Vic., 3000, PHONE: 3/9606-0222; c/o Sandra Devahasdin PR & Promotions, Unit 2, 226 James St., Perth, WA 6000, PHONE: 8/9228-8166; Level 11, AWA Building, 47 York St., Sydney, New South Wales 2000, PHONE: 2/9290-2888).

Canada (2 Bloor St. West, Suite 404, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2, PHONE: 416/363-8898, www.singapore-ca.com).

New Zealand (Vivaldi World Ltd., 85B Hebron Rd., Waiake, Auckland, 1311, PHONE: 9/473-8658).

United Kingdom (Carrington House, 126-130 Regent St., 1st floor, London W1R 5FE, PHONE: 207/437-0033).

United States (590 5th Ave., 12th floor, New York, NY 10036, PHONE: 212/302-4861, www.singapore-usa.com; Two Prudential Plaza, 180 N. Stetson Ave., Suite 2615, Chicago, IL 60601, PHONE: 312/938-1888; 8484 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 510, Beverly Hills, CA 90211, PHONE: 323/852-1901).

With the equator only 129 km (86 mi) to the south, Singapore is usually either hot or very hot. The average daily temperature is 80°F (26.6°C); it usually reaches 87°F (30.7°C) in the afternoon and drops to a cool 75°F (23.8°C) just before dawn. The months from November through January, during the northeast monsoon, are generally the coolest. The average daily relative humidity is 84.5%, although it drops to 65%-70% on dry afternoons.

Rain falls year-round, but the wettest months are November through January. February is usually the sunniest month; December, the most inclement.

Holidays

Singapore has 10 public holidays: New Year's Day (Jan. 1), Hari Raya Puasa (late Dec.), Chinese New Year (late Jan.), Hari Raya Haji (early Mar.), Good Friday, Labor Day, Vesak Day (May), National Day (Aug. 9), Deepavali/Diwali (Oct.-Nov.), Christmas Day (Dec. 25).

It is unnecessary to rent a car or hire a chauffeur in Singapore. Distances are short, besides which, parking is very expensive, especially in the central business district. Taxis and public transportation are far more convenient and less expensive. And almost everything worth seeing is accessible by tour bus.

Bicycle-rickshaws, known as trishaws, number a few dozen. They are considered museum pieces, favored only by tourists, and were last used as serious local transport in the 1960s. They're usually found on Stamford Road in front of the Singapore History Museum and at Bugis Junction. Bargain for the fare; you shouldn't pay more than S$20 for a 45-minute ride. The best time to take a rickshaw ride is 7 PM or later, after the rush hour.

Harbor cruises and ferries to Singapore's outer islands, Malaysia, and the Indonesian Riau islands depart from two locations:

Singapore Cruise Centre (World Trade Centre, PHONE: 270-3918 or 321-2802), a 10-minute drive from the city center.

Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal (Changi Rd., PHONE: 345-1210) on Singapore's east coast.

Reserved bus lanes along the main roads and frequent service -- usually every 5 to 10 minutes -- make buses quicker than cabs during rush hours, (and they're always cheaper). The excellent TransitLink Guide, available for S$1.50 at any bookstore or subway (MRT) station, pinpoints major stops.

Fares range from S$0.60 to S$1.20 for buses without air-conditioning and from S$0.70 to S$1.50 for those with it. Deposit exact change, and remember to collect your ticket. Most buses run from 6 AM until around midnight. To reach Sentosa Island by bus, either find a special Sentosa bus (Service E runs down Orchard Road) or first take a regular bus to the World Trade Centre -- number 65 or 143 from Orchard Road -- and transfer there onto a shuttle across the causeway. The S$7 round-trip fare includes admission to the island. Shuttles operate weekdays 7 AM-10:30 PM (till 12:30 AM on weekends).

The S$10 Tourist Day Ticket (available at MRT stations and bus interchanges) lets you take up to 12 rides a day on the MRT and bus system. You must tell the ticketing officer exactly which day you intend to use it as that date will be printed on the ticket.

The red Singapore Trolley bus connects the Orchard Road shopping belt, the colonial district, the Singapore River, Chinatown, Raffles Hotel, Clarke Quay, Marina, and Suntec City. It's expensive (S$14.90), but it does make 22 stops, and your ticket is good for a full day of unlimited travel, as well as a free riverboat tour. You can buy it (you'll need exact change) when you board or from your hotel concierge.

For all information on bus travel within Singapore, contact the following:

Singapore Bus Services (PHONE: 800/287-2727).

Singapore Explorer (PHONE: 339-6833).

You can catch a cable car to Sentosa Island from one of two terminals on the Singapore side. Cable cars run regularly daily from 8:30 AM-9 PM; fares are S$6.90 round-trip, S$5.90 one way.

Cable Car Towers (PHONE: 270-8855), next to the World Trade Centre. The station is accessible by bus: from Orchard Road, take Bus 65 or 143; from Clifford Pier, Bus 10, 97, 100, 125, or 131 to the World Trade Centre; from Chinatown, Bus 61, 84, 143, 145, or 166.

The longer, 13-minute trip from Mt. Faber Cable Car Station (PHONE: 275-0248) offers better views, but there is no bus to the station and it's a long walk up the hill; a taxi is your best bet.

With the amount of road rules, regulations, tariffs, tolls, and permit requirements that seem to change and expand in Singapore every year, you'd be advised to stick to public transportation. Road congestion (particularly to and from Malaysia) can be harrowing during rush hours and on weekends and holidays. Highway names, tariffs, and all licensing schemes are abbreviated, and this can cause great confusion.

To even out traffic flow into the Central Business District (CBD), all cars entering during the restricted hours of 7:30 AM to 7 PM are required to display a valid ALS (Area Licensing Scheme) license. One-day ALS licenses cost S$3 and are available at gas stations, ALS booths, post offices, and 7-Eleven stores.

To relieve congestion between 7:30 AM and 9:30 AM along expressways and busy roads, vehicles passing through Electronic Road Pricing (ERP) gantries on these routes must pay a toll, which is automatically deducted by an in-vehicle unit (IU) from a prepaid cash-card inserted into the IU. Foreign-registered cars can be fitted with a permanent (S$120) or temporary (S$5 daily, deposit S$120) IU on entry to Singapore; cash cards are available at gas stations and 7-Eleven stores.

ERP Hotline (PHONE: 800/553-5226).

NETS (PHONE: 274-1322).

A guide to the ALS and ERP is available at the Woodlands Checkpoint on entry to Singapore.

Car Rentals

Rates in Singapore begin at S$65 a day and S$392 a week for an economy car with unlimited mileage. This doesn't include tax on car rentals, which is 3%. Should you want to look up firms in the Singapore Yellow Pages, check under "Motorcar Renting and Leasing."

In Singapore

AB (Budget) (Pan Pacific Hotel, ground floor, PHONE: 334-0019, Changi Airport, Terminal 1 PHONE: 543-4431).

National (Changi Airport, PHONE: 543-2331 or 542-8855; Boulevard Hotel, 200 Orchard Blvd., PHONE: 737-1668).

Sime Darby (Hertz) (Changi Airport, Terminal 2, PHONE: 542-5300; Tudor Court Shopping Gallery, 125 Tanglin Rd., PHONE: 1800-734-4646).

Sintat (Changi Airport, Terminal 1, PHONE: 542-7288; 60 Bendemeer Rd., PHONE: 295-2211 or 295-6288).

At Home

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia).

National (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom).

Emergency Assistance

The Automobile Association of Singapore (AAS; PHONE: 748-9911) has 24-hour emergency road service.

Gasoline

Unleaded gas starts at S$1.25 per liter in Singapore. A government ruling requires any car passing the Causeway out of Singapore to drive with at least three-quarters of a tank of gas or be fined; the republic's huge losses in revenue as a result of Singaporeans driving to Malaysia to fill up cheaply led to this unpopular ruling.

Parking

For visitors, there are two ways of parking: coupon parking and paid parking. Where required, parking coupons should be displayed on the dashboard. Denominations of parking coupons are S$0.45, S$0.90, S$1.80, and S$2 (for overnight parking). Generally, parking rates are S$0.45 per half hour outside the CBD, and S$0.90 per half hour within it. Parking coupons are available from gas stations, post offices, shopping centers, and some shops.

Paid parking is practiced in almost all shopping centers, buildings, and some public parking areas. You basically pay for the amount of time your car is parked. Some shopping centers offer a rebate on your parking charges, as do some hotels.

Requirements

You will need an international driving license to rent a car in Singapore.

Road Conditions

For the most part, road conditions are quite good, especially on the expressways. Some streets have fairly deep ditches and may not be well-lit in the evenings.

Rules of the Road

Driving is on the left-hand side of the road in both Singapore and Malaysia. A valid driving license from your country of residence or a valid International Driver's License is required. Parking coupons should be displayed on the dashboard. The speed limit is 50 kph (31 mph) in residential areas and 80 kph (50 mph) on expressways. Speed cameras are installed throughout the island; fines are comparable to those in New York City or Toronto. Bus lanes or extreme left lanes marked by unbroken yellow lines should not be used by cars during the following hours: weekdays 7:30 AM-9:30 AM and 4:30 PM-7 PM, Saturday 7:30 AM-9:30 AM and 11:30 AM-2 PM.

The subway, the Singapore MRT (PHONE: 800/336-8900), consists of two lines that run north-south and east-west and cross at the City Hall and Raffles Place interchanges. The system includes 48 stations along 83 km (52 mi). All cars and underground stations are air-conditioned, and the trains operate between 6 AM and midnight daily.

You can buy tickets from booths or vending machines in the stations. Large maps showing the station locations and the fares between them hang above each vending machine. There is a S$2 fine for underpaying, so make sure you buy the right ticket for your destination. The magnetic tickets are inserted in turnstiles to let you on and off the platform. Fares start at S$0.70 for about two stations; the maximum fare is S$1.60. The fare between Orchard Road Station and Raffles Place Station (in the business district) is S$0.70.

The TransitLink fare card (PHONE: 800/779-9366), a prepaid mass-transit ticket, starting at S$12 including a S$2 deposit, can be used on both buses and trains and is available at TransitLink sales offices in MRT stations and at bus interchanges. Any unused fare and the deposit can be refunded at TransitLink offices.

There are more than 15,000 strictly regulated, metered taxis in Singapore. Taxi fares have been deregulated since 1998, which means that different taxi companies can set their own fares, within reasonable limits monitored by the regulator, the Land Transport Authority. The starting fare for most companies is S$2.40 for the first km (0.9 mi) but thereafter, different companies may charge S$.10 for each subsequent 240 meters (900 ft) or S$.10 for each subsequent 225 meters (820 ft). In the next phase of the fare structure, you might pay S$.10 for every subsequent 225 meters again with one company, or S$.10 for every 200 meters (656 ft) thereafter with another, and so on. Every 30 seconds of waiting time carries a S$.10 charge.

Be aware of myriad surcharges that may apply. For starters, at peak hours on busy roads, the additional Electronic Road Pricing (ERP) charge will be added to the metered fare, shown on the upper display of the cab's in-vehicle unit. A S$3.20 charge is added for taxis booked by phone (there's an additional S$2 surcharge for every booking half an hour or more in advance). Trips made between midnight and 6 AM have a 50% surcharge, and rides from, not to, the airport carry a S$3 surcharge. Unless a taxi displays a yellow permit, a S$1 surcharge is added to fares from the CBD between 5 and 8 PM on weekdays and noon and 3 PM on Saturdays. To the CBD, there's a S$3 surcharge for the purchase of an Area License, which is needed to enter the Restricted Zone between 7:30 AM and 6:30 PM weekdays, between 7:30 AM and 2 PM Saturday, and on the eve of five major holidays. You don't pay the fee if the taxi already has the sticker. Be on the lookout for other charges.

You can catch cabs at stands or by hail them from any curb not marked with a double yellow line.

Radio cabs are available 24 hours:

TibsPHONE: 481-1211.

Comfort CabLinkPHONE: 552-1111.

CityCabPHONE: 552-2222).

It's often difficult to get through to reserve a cab, so it's better to just hail one or take the bus. A driver showing a red destination label in the window is returning to his garage and can pick up only passengers going in his direction. Drivers don't expect tips.