Aeroport de L'Espérance (SFG) (PHONE:590/87-53-03), on the French side, is small and handles only island hoppers.

Jumbo jets fly into Princess Juliana International Airport (SXM) (PHONE:599/545-4211), on the Dutch side.

Carriers

Air Caraïbes (PHONE:877/772-1005; 599/545-2568 in St. Maarten; www.aircaraibes.com) offers daily flights to St. Barths; the airline flies mainly out of L'Espérance, on the French side.

Air France (PHONE:0/802802-802 / in Paris; 599/545-4212 in St. Maarten; www.airfrance.com) offers daily nonstop flights from Paris, with connections from other European cities, as well as connections to and from Martinique and Antigua.

American Airlines (PHONE:800/433-7300; 599/545-2040 in St. Maarten; www.aa.com) has daily nonstop flights from New York and Miami, and connections via its San Juan hub.

BWIA (PHONE:0800/169-7745 in London; 800/538-2942 in North America; 599/545-4646 in St. Maarten; www.bwee.com) has service from Trinidad, Jamaica, and Antigua.

Continental (PHONE:800/231-0856; 599/545-3444 in St. Maarten; www.continental.com) has daily nonstop flights from Newark and connections from San Juan.

Delta (PHONE:800/241-4141; 599/545-4344 in St. Maarten; www.delta.com) offers daily nonstops from Atlanta.

KLM (PHONE:31/20-4-747-747 in Amsterdam; 599/545-4747 in St. Maarten; www.klm.com) and its affiliates offer service from Curaçao, Aruba, Bonaire, and Caracas, and other islands, as well as from numerous European cities.

LIAT (PHONE:888/844-5428; 599/545-4203 in St. Maarten; www.liatairline.com) has daily service from San Juan and several Caribbean islands, including Antigua, the USVI, the BVI, and St. Kitts & Nevis.

US Airways (PHONE:800/428-4322; 599/545-4344 in St. Maarten; www.usairways.com) has nonstop service from Philadelphia and Charlotte.

Winair (PHONE:599/545-4237; www.fly-winair.com), based on St. Maarten, has daily service to Anguilla, Saba, St. Barths, St. Eustatius, and St. Kitts & Nevis, as well as several weekly flights to Tortola. The company also offers tour and charter services.

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

Many hotels, especially those far from the airport, include airport transfers.

By Taxi

Fixed fares apply from Juliana International Airport to the various hotels around the island. Fares are 25% higher between 10 PM and midnight, 50% higher between midnight and 6 AM.

Dutch taxi dispatch (PHONE:147).

French taxi dispatch (PHONE:590/87-56-54).

The Voyager II (PHONE:599/542-4096 or 590/87-10-68; www.voyager-st-barths.com) offers daily service from Marigot to St. Barths Tuesday through Saturday. The cost for the 75-minute ride is $57 per person round-trip, including an open bar, snacks, and port fees. Children under 12 are roughly half price, and children under five travel free.

The high-speed passenger ferries Edge I (47 passengers) and Edge II (62 passengers) motor from Simpson Bay's Pelican Marina (PHONE:599/544-2640) to Saba on Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday in just an hour ($60 round-trip) and to St. Barths on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday in 45 minutes ($50 round-trip, plus $7 port fee). The trips depart at 9 and return by 5 the same day.

The Link Ferries (PHONE:264/497-2231; www.link.ai) ferries make the 20-minute trip between the Marigot piers, on the Marigot waterfront, and Blowing Point, on Anguilla, departing and returning every half-hour from 8 AM until 7 PM daily. The fare is $10 one-way plus $3 departure tax, or $26 round-trip.

Banks

Banks on the Dutch side are open Monday-Thursday 8:30-3:30 and Friday 8:30-4:40. French banks are open weekdays 8:30-12:30 and 2:30-4 and close afternoons preceding holidays.

Post Offices

Dutch-side post offices are open Monday-Thursday 7:30-5 and Friday 7:30-4:30. On the French side, post offices are open weekdays 7:30-4:45 and Saturday 7:30-11:30.

Shops

Shops on the Dutch side are generally open Monday-Saturday 8-noon and 2-6; on the French side, Monday-Saturday 9-noon or 12:30 and 2-6. Increasingly, however, shops on both sides remain open during lunch. Some of the larger shops are open on Sunday and holidays when cruise ships are in port.

Arriving in St. Maarten/St. Martin

Although customs inspectors in some countries inspect all baggage to allay their concerns about smuggling or drug running, many islands wave those tourists who have no goods to declare through customs inspections with only a cursory question or two. Exceptions include major hubs within the Caribbean, such as Jamaica, Puerto Rico, and Antigua. If you're yachting through the islands, note that harbor customs are often thorough, as well.

These rules generally apply throughout the Caribbean: you are limited to bringing in 2 liters of alcohol, two cartons of cigarettes, and a reasonable amount of duty-free goods for your personal use. More than that, and you'll be asked to pay a hefty import tax.

Generally, the Dutch side operates on 110 volts AC (60-cycle) and has outlets that accept flat-prong plugs -- the same as in North America.

The French side operates on 220 volts AC (60-cycle), with round-prong plugs; you'll need an adapter and a converter for North American appliances.

On the Dutch side:

Ambulance and Fire (PHONE:130 or 120).

Police (PHONE:911). On the French side:

Ambulance and Fire (PHONE:15).

Police (PHONE:590/87-88-33).

Hospitals

Hospital de Marigot (Rue de l'Hôpital, Marigot, PHONE:590/29-57-57).

St. Maarten Medical Center (Cay Hill, PHONE:599/543-1111).

Pharmacies

Central Drug Store (Camille Richardson St., Philipsburg, PHONE:599/542-2321).

Friendly Drug Store (Plaza del Lago, Simpson Bay, PHONE:599/544-3653).

Pharmacie du Port (Rue de la Liberté, Marigot, PHONE:590/87-50-79).

Religion plays an important part in island life, and churches are packed on Sunday. On the streets and in shops, conservative dress is the norm. Take the cue. In addition, a smile and a simple greeting go a long way toward establishing good relations with locals.

A 2½-hour taxi tour of the island costs $30 for one or two people, $10 for each additional person. Your hotel or the tourist office can arrange it for you.

On the Dutch side, Calypso Tours (Union Rd., Cole Bay, PHONE:599/544-2858) has, among other things, three-hour island tours for $20 per person.

Elle Si Belle (Airport Blvd., Simpson Bay, PHONE:599/545-2271) offers tours by van or bus.

Contact St. Maarten Sightseeing Tours (Maho Plaza at Maho Beach Hotel & Casino, Airport Rd., Simpson Bay, PHONE:599/545-2115) for tours on the Dutch side.

On the French side, R&J Tours (north of Marigot, Colombier, PHONE:590/87-56-20) will show you the island; a three-hour tour (minimum of five people) is $15 per person.

The island is surprisingly bug-free, thanks to the trade winds. You may encounter mosquitoes, but usually not in droves. The biggest problem might be sun exposure. Even on seemingly cloudy days, the sun can cause painful burns, so use sunscreen and monitor your sunbathing time. Drinking water is generally safe, except immediately following a hurricane or storm. Still, most locals use bottled drinking water, which is plentiful at shops throughout the island.

The staff at your hotel can recommend a doctor, dentist, clinic, or hospital should a need arise. Sometimes, particularly at family resorts, a nurse is on-site during the day and a doctor is on call. Doctor visits, incidentally, can be costly.

Divers' Alert

Do not fly within 24 hours of scuba diving.

Food and Drink

Traveler's diarrhea, caused by eating contaminated fruit or vegetables or drinking contaminated water, isn't a big problem in the Caribbean, but it does occur. So watch what you eat. Avoid ice, uncooked food, and unpasteurized milk and milk products, and drink only bottled water or water that has been boiled for several minutes, even when brushing your teeth. Mild cases may respond to Imodium (known generically as loperamide) or Pepto-Bismol, both of which can be purchased over the counter. Drink plenty of purified water or tea -- chamomile is a good folk remedy. In severe cases, rehydrate yourself with a salt-sugar solution (½ teaspoon salt and 4 tablespoons sugar per quart of water).

Over-the-Counter Remedies

Island drug stores and supermarkets are well stocked with familiar over-the-counter medicines and other health products that you might need. If you don't see precisely what you want, ask the pharmacist to recommend an appropriate substitute. If you can only use a specific or an uncommon medicine, be sure to bring a sufficient supply with you.

Pests and Other Hazards

The major health risk in the Caribbean is sunburn or sunstroke. Having a long-sleeve shirt, a hat, and long pants or a beach wrap available is essential on a boat, for midday at the beach, and whenever you go out sightseeing. Use sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 -- especially if your complexion is fair -- and apply it liberally on your nose, ears, and other sensitive and exposed areas. Make sure the sunscreen is waterproof if you're engaging in water sports, limit your sun time for the first few days, and drink plenty of liquids, monitoring intake of caffeine and alcohol, which hasten the dehydration process.

Even experienced swimmers should exercise caution in waters on the windward (Atlantic Ocean) side of the islands. The unseen currents, powerful waves, strong undertows, and rocky bottoms can be extremely dangerous -- and lifeguards are rare. Even in the calmest water, watch out for black, spiny sea urchins; stepping on one is guaranteed to be painful for quite some time.

The small lizards native to the islands are harmless (and actually keep down the bug population), and poisonous snakes are hard to find. Beware of the manchineel tree, which grows near the beach and has green applelike fruit that is poisonous and bark and leaves that can burn the skin.

Shots and Medications

No special shots or vaccinations are required for Caribbean destinations.

Dutch is the official language of St. Maarten, and French is the official language of St. Martin, but almost everyone speaks English. If you hear a language you can't quite place, it may be Papiamento -- a mix of Spanish, Portuguese, Dutch, French, and English -- spoken throughout the Netherlands Antilles.

The main Dutch-side post office is on Walter Nisbeth Road in Philipsburg. Other branches are at Captain Hodge Wharf in Philipsburg and Simpson Bay on Airport Road. Letters from the Dutch side to North America and Europe cost NAf 2.85, and to New Zealand NAf 3.80; postcards to all destinations are NAf 1.45. A standard letter to Australia is NAf 2.75. When writing to Dutch St. Maarten, call it "Sint Maarten" and make sure to add "Netherlands Antilles" to the address.

The main post office on the French side is in Marigot, on rue de la Liberté. From the French side, letters up to 20 grams and postcards are EUR.58 to North America and EUR.79 to Europe, New Zealand, and Australia. When writing to the French side, the proper spelling is "St. Martin," and you add "French West Indies" to the address. Postal codes are used only on the French side.

Airmail between Caribbean islands and cities in the United States or Canada takes 7-14 days; surface mail can take 4-6 weeks. Airmail to the United Kingdom takes 2-3 weeks, to Australia and New Zealand, 3-4 weeks.

ATMs

All banks now have automatic teller machines (ATMs) that accept international cards.

On the Dutch side try the following:

RBTT (Emnaplein, Philipsburg, PHONE:599/542-3344; www.rbttantilles.com).

Windward Islands Bank (Wathey Sq., Front St., Philipsburg, PHONE:599/542-2313; www.wib-bank.net).

On the French side try:

Banque des Antilles Françaises (Rue de la République, Marigot, PHONE:590/29-13-30).

Banque Française Commerciale (Rue de la République, Marigot, PHONE:590/87-53-80).

Credit Cards

MasterCard, Visa, and Amex are accepted all over the island, Diners Club and Discover on occasion.

Currency

Legal tender on the Dutch side is the Netherlands Antilles florin (guilder), written NAf; prices are usually given in both NAf and U.S. dollars, which are accepted all over the island.

Legal tender on the French side is the euro (EUR). January 1, 2002, saw the introduction of euro coins and notes. The former local currency, the French franc, ceased to be legal tender in mid-February, 2002. All transactions are now made in euros.

Euro notes come in denominations of EUR500, EUR200, EUR100, EUR50, EUR20, EUR10 and EUR5. The euro is divided into 100 cents, and coins are available as EUR2 and EUR1 and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 cents. The euro is also used in Austria, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Portugal, Spain, Martinique, and St. Barths.

Taxes

Departure tax from Juliana Airport is $7 to destinations within the Netherlands Antilles and $20 to all other destinations. This tax is not included in your airline ticket, but must be paid in cash (dollars, euros, or NAf) at a booth before you get on your plane. If you arrive on the island by plane and depart within 24 hours, you will be considered "in transit" and not required to pay the $20 departure tax.

It will cost you EUR3 (usually included in the ticket price) to depart by plane from L'Espérance Airport, and $4 by ferry to Anguilla from Marigot's pier.

Hotels on the Dutch side add a 15% service charge to the bill as well as a 5% government tax, for a total of 20%.

Hotels on the French side add 10%-15% for service and a taxe de séjour; the amount of this visitor tax differs from hotel to hotel, and can be as high as 5%.

Tipping

Often without consistency, service charges of between 10% and 15% may be added to hotel and restaurant bills. Especially in restaurants, be sure to ask if a tip is included; that way, you are not either double tipping or short-changing the staff. Taxi drivers, porters, chambermaids, and restaurant waitstaff depend on tips. The guideline is 10%-15% for waitstaff and cabbies, a dollar per bag for porters, and $1-$5 per night for chambermaids.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering St. Maarten/St. Martin

U.S. and Canadian citizens need proof of citizenship. A passport (valid or not expired more than five years) is always the best document with which to travel, particularly for children. Barring a passport, an original birth certificate with raised seal (or a photocopy with notary seal) plus a government-issued photo I.D., such as a driver's license, is also acceptable. This is why children are best served by passports, since they are unlikely to have other types of photo I.D. British citizens need a valid passport or a national I.D. card. Citizens of Australia and New Zealand require a valid passport. All visitors must have a confirmed room reservation and an ongoing or return ticket.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE:131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0G3, PHONE:819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE:04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE:0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE:900/225-5674; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html). Calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service.

Always lock your valuables and travel documents in your room safe or your hotel's front desk safe. When sightseeing in a rental car, keep valuables locked in the trunk or car, and never leave your things unattended at the beach. Despite the romantic imagery of the Caribbean, it's not good policy to take long walks along the beach at night.

To call the Dutch side from the U.S., dial 011-599/54 plus the local number; for the French side, 011-590-590 plus the six-digit local number.

To phone from the Dutch side to the French, dial 00-590-590 plus the local number; from the French side to the Dutch, 00-599 plus local number. Note that a call from one side to the other is considered an overseas call and billed at international rates. To call a French side local number from the French side, dial 0590 plus the six-digit number.

Phone and fax service to and from the Caribbean is up to date and efficient. Phone cards are used throughout the islands; you can buy them (in various denominations) at many retail shops and convenience stores. Some must be used in special card phones, which are also widely available.

International Calls

At the Landsradio in Philipsburg, there are facilities for overseas calls and an AT&T USADirect phone, where you are directly in touch with an AT&T operator who will accept collect or credit-card calls.

On the French side, you can't make collect calls to the U.S., and there are no coin phones. If you need to use public phones, go to the special desk at Marigot's post office and buy a telecarte. There's a public phone at the tourist office in Marigot where you can make credit-card calls: the operator takes your card number (any major card) and assigns you a PIN (Personal Identification Number), which you then use to charge calls to your card.

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

Tourist Offices

In St. Maarten and St. Martin

Dutch-side Tourist Information Bureau (Cyrus Wathey Sq., Philipsburg, PHONE:599/542-2337).

Dutch-side tourist bureau administrative office (33 W. G. Buncamper Rd., in the Vineyard Park Bldg., Philipsburg, PHONE:599/542-2337).

French-side Tourist Information Office (PHONE:590/87-57-21).

At Home

St. Maarten Tourist Office (675 3rd Ave., Suite 1806, New York, NY, 10017, PHONE:800/786-2278 or 212/953-2084; www.st-maarten.com).

St. Maarten Tourist Information (703 Evans Ave., Suite 106, Toronto, Ontario, M9C 5E9, Canada, PHONE:416/622-4300; www.st-martin.org).

St. Martin Office of Tourism (675 3rd Ave., Suite 1807, New York, NY, 10017, PHONE:877/956-1234 or 212/475-8970, FAX: 212/260-8481).

Caribbean Tourism Organization (CTO) (80 Broad St., New York, NY, 10004, PHONE:212/635-9530, FAX: 212/635-9511).

The Caribbean high season is traditionally winter -- from December 15 to April 14 -- when northern weather is at its worst. During this season you're guaranteed the most entertainment at resorts and the most people with whom to enjoy it. It's also the most fashionable, the most expensive, and the most popular time to visit -- and most hotels are heavily booked. You must make reservations at least two or three months in advance for the very best places (sometimes a year in advance for the most exclusive spots).

Hotel prices drop 20%-50% after April 15; airfares and cruise prices also fall. Saving money isn't the only reason to visit the Caribbean during the off-season. Temperatures are only a few degrees warmer than at other times of the year, and many islands now schedule their carnivals, music festivals, and other events during the off-season. Late August, September, October, and early November are least crowded.

In summer the flamboyant trees are at their peak, as are most of the flowers and shrubs of the West Indies. The water is clearer for snorkeling and smoother for sailing in May, June, and July.

The Caribbean climate is fairly constant. The average year-round temperatures for the region are 78°F-88°F. The temperature extremes are 65°F low, 95°F high; but, as everyone knows, it's the humidity, not the heat, that makes you suffer, especially when the two go hand in hand.

As part of the late-fall rainy season, hurricanes occasionally sweep through the Caribbean. Check the news daily and keep abreast of brewing tropical storms. The rainy season consists mostly of brief showers interspersed with sunshine. You can watch the clouds thicken, feel the rain, then have brilliant sunshine dry you off, all while remaining on your lounge chair. A spell of overcast days or heavy rainfall is unusual, as everyone will tell you.

Holidays

Both sides of the island celebrate specific holidays related to their government and culture, and some, such as New Year's, the Easter holidays (moveable, Apr. or May), Labor Day (the first Monday in Sept.), Christmas, and Boxing Day (Dec. 26) are celebrated together.

Other French-side holidays are Ascension Day (May 25), Bastille Day (July 14), Schoelcher Day (July 21), All Saints' Day (Nov. 1), and the Feast of St. Martin (Nov. 11).

Other Dutch-side holidays are Antillean Day (Oct. 21) and St. Maarten Day (Nov. 11; this coincides with Feast of St. Martin on the French side). On many holidays, government offices, shops, and even gas stations may be closed.

The island has approximately 200 privately owned licensed buses; many are eight-seat Toyota vans. At a flat rate of $1 to $1.50 (as high as $2 after 8 PM), payable when you get out, buses are the island's best bargains. They operate casually but frequently between 7 AM and midnight from Philipsburg through Cole Bay to Marigot and on to Grand Case. There are only a few official stops: just stand beside the road and flag down the vehicle (the license plate says "BUS").

The best and most economical way to get around St. Maarten is by car.

Car Rentals

You can book a car at Juliana International Airport, where all major rental companies have booths. Rates, in general, are low for the Caribbean -- between $30 and $50 a day with unlimited mileage for a subcompact car., and major credit cards are accepted. Avis, Budget, Dollar, and Hertz have good selections. Also try locally owned Unity Car Rental.

In St. Maarten

Avis (PHONE:599/545-2319).

Budget (PHONE:599/545-4030).

Dollar (PHONE:599/545-3281).

Hertz (PHONE:599/545-4541).

Unity Car Rental (PHONE:599/557-6760 or 800/836-4529).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE:800/522-9696; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE:800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Dollar (PHONE:800/800-6000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; where it's affiliated with Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE:800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE:800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Requirements

All foreign driver's licenses are honored.

Road Conditions

Most roads are paved and in generally good condition. However, they can be narrow and often crowded. Be alert for potholes and speed bumps, as well as the island tradition of stopping in the middle of the road to chat with a friend or let someone into traffic. Few roads are identified by name, so use a map and follow destination signs. International symbols are used.

Rules of the Road

International traffic signs and Dutch-style traffic signals (with an extra light for turning lane) can be misleading for some American drivers, so use extreme caution, especially at intersections, until you get used to driving here.

Though traffic can be heavy, road speeds are generally slow, so a moped can be a good way get around. Parking is easy, filling the tank with gas is affordable, and you've got that sea breeze in your hair.

Scooters rent for as low as $23 a day and motorbikes for $37 a day at Eugene Moto (Sandy Ground Rd., Sandy Ground, PHONE:590/87-13-97), on the French side.

At Go Scoot (20 Airport Rd., Simpson Bay, PHONE:599/545-4533) the bikes are in good repair and the counter clerks are helpful.

If you're in the mood for a more substantial bike, contact Harley-Davidson (Cole Bay, PHONE:599/544-2779), on the Dutch side, where you can rent a big hog for $112 a day.

The government regulates taxi rates. Fixed fares apply from Juliana International Airport and the Marigot ferry to the various hotels around the island. There's a taxi service at the Marigot port near the tourist information bureau.

Fares are 25% higher between 10 PM and midnight, 50% higher between midnight and 6 AM.

You can hail cabs on the street or call the Dutch taxi dispatch (PHONE:147) on the Dutch side.

On the French side of the island, contact the French taxi dispatch (PHONE:590/87-56-54) for pickups.