In his take on Modern Australian cuisine, chef Peter Gilmore masterfully crafts such dishes as crisp pork belly with Queensland scallops, and pressed duck confit with star anise. Desserts are sublime -- particularly the five-textured Valrhona chocolate cake -- and the wine list fits the flavors of the cuisine like an old glove. Glass walls afford wonderful views of the bridge and Opera House, right at your fork's tip. Reservations essential.