The elegant, pillared dining room is the perfect setting for showing off chef Peter Doyle's modern, light touch. The jacqueline sauce (flavored with cream, carrot, and sherry) on the crisp, skinned John Dory lets the fish shine, while a ragout of beans, tapenade, and rosemary oil complements the lamb. Anything Doyle cooks with scallops is divine. The dessert of mixed berries with rhubarb jelly will test any dieter's resolve. Reservations essential.