In the world of fashion, according to one-time clothing design house Merivale and Mr John, the new glamor is restaurants. That's why Merivale's and John Hemmes' family now run so many restaurants, including this funky little bistro. With its fabulous back bar and pencil-thin diners, the food probably doesn't have to be as good as it is. Tender pink lamb rack comes on garlic mash, stuffed squid is lifted with a hint of chili, and the richness of duck liver salad is cut through with the pepperiness of watercress. Reservations not accepted.