The view east over the harbor is glorious, the private dining rooms are plush, and Dietmar Sawyere's Asian-influenced classical food is full of finesse. The set-price dinner menu (A$120) varies, but might include a tantalizing warm salad of Chinese duck and sea scallops, and the cruelly delicious Valrhona-chocolate tart. The vegetarian menu, with the likes of goat's cheese with marinated peppers and kalamata-olive oil, is sublime. The restaurant's decadent Krug Room is a snug haven for those who still believe a glass of champagne and a little foie gras can cure most of the world's ills. Reservations essential.