It may look like a cross between a half-finished bomb shelter and a neglected shore house, but this beachside restaurant is home to Sean Moran, one of Sydney's brightest and most innovative chefs. While lunches are easygoing affairs, things get a little more serious at night as Moran cooks up memorable dishes including Barossa Valley chicken with sweet-potato puree and peas, Illabo lamb shoulder with cannellini beans and sugar snap peas; and raspberry, blackberry, and blueberry trifle. Reservations essential. BYOB.