Kingsford-Smith International Airport (SYD) (PHONE:02/9667-9111; www.sydneyairport.com.au) is Sydney's main airport, 8 km (5 mi) south of the city. Luggage carts are available in the baggage area of the international terminal. You can convert your money to Australian currency at the Travelex offices in both the arrivals and departures areas. These are open daily from about 5 AM-10 PM or later, depending on flight arrival or departure times.

Tourism New South Wales has two information counters in the arrival level of the international terminal. One provides free maps and brochures and handles general inquiries. The other deals with hotel reservations. Both counters are open daily from approximately 6 AM-11 PM.

Kingsford-Smith's domestic and international terminals are 3 km (2 mi) apart. To get from one terminal to the other, you can take a taxi for about A$13, use the Airport Shuttle Bus, or catch the Airport Express bus. The latter departs approximately every 10-15 minutes from the arrivals terminal, between about 5 AM and 11 PM. Both bus services cost A$3.

Flying times are as follows: from New York to Sydney (via Los Angeles), about 21 hours; from Chicago to Sydney (via Los Angeles), about 19 hours; from Los Angeles to Sydney (nonstop), about 14 hours; and from London to Sydney, about 20½ hours via Singapore or Bangkok.

Since flights from the United States to Australia cross the International Date Line, you lose a day on the outward leg of your travels and regain it on the journey home.

Carriers

Several international and domestic airlines serve Sydney's Kingsford-Smith International Airport from North America, Europe, and Southeast Asia. Qantas flights with numbers QF1 to QF399 depart from the Kingsford-Smith airport's international terminal. Flights QF400 and higher depart from the domestic terminal.

Qantas Airways and Virgin Blue connect Sydney to other cities in Australia.

Air Canada (PHONE:1300/655767 in Australia; 800/426-7000 in the U.S.; 800/665-1177 in Canada; 09/379-3371 in New Zealand).

Air New Zealand (PHONE:13-2476 in Australia; 800/262-1234 in the U.S.; 800/663-5494 in Canada; 0181/741-2299 in the U.K.; 13-2476 in Australia; 0800/737-000 in New Zealand).

Alitalia (PHONE:02/9244-2400).

British Airways (PHONE:1300/767177 in Australia; 800/247-9297 in the U.S. and Canada; 20/8741-2299 in the U.K.; 09/356-8690 in New Zealand).

Cathay Pacific (PHONE:13-1747 in Australia; 800/233-2742 in the U.S.; 800/268-6868 in Canada; 0171/747-8888 in the U.K.; 09/379-0861 in New Zealand).

Garuda (PHONE:1300/365330).

Japan Airlines (PHONE:02/9272-1111 in Australia; 800/525-3663 in the U.S.; 800/525-3663 in Canada; 0171/408-1000 in the U.K.; 09/379-3202 in New Zealand).

Lauda Air (PHONE:02/9241-4277 in Australia).

Malaysia Airlines (PHONE:13-2627 in Australia).

Qantas (PHONE:13-1313 in Australia; 800/227-4500 in the U.S. and Canada; 0845/774-7767 in the U.K; 0800/808-767 in New Zealand; www.qantas.com.au).

Singapore Airlines (PHONE:13-1011 in Australia; 800/742-3333 in the U.S.; 800/387-0038 in Canada; 0181/747-0007 in the U.K.; 0800/808-909 in New Zealand).

Thai Airways (PHONE:1300/651960 in Australia).

United (PHONE:13-1777 in Australia; 800/538-2929 in the U.S.; 800/241-6522 in Canada; 0845/844-4777 in the U.K.; 0800/508-648 in New Zealand).

Virgin Blue (PHONE:13-6789 in Australia).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Bus

The green-and-yellow Airport Express (PHONE:13-1500) bus provides a fast, comfortable link between the airport terminals and the city, Kings Cross, and Darling Harbour. If you're traveling with fewer than four people, the cost compares favorably with that of a taxi -- the bus is A$7 one-way, A$12 round-trip. From the international and domestic terminals, the Airport Express Bus stops first at Central Station, then travels along George Street to Circular Quay and The Rocks before making a loop of Kings Cross. Buses depart approximately every 20 minutes on weekdays between 6:30 AM and 8 PM, approximately every 30 minutes on weekends. Refer to timetables outside the airport terminals for full details, or call the State Transit Infoline (PHONE:13-1500). A brochure on the service is usually available from the Tourism New South Wales counter at the airport.

By Car

From Airport Drive, take the Princes Highway north to the city center.

By Limousine

A chauffeured limousine to the city hotels costs about A$85. Waiting time is charged at the rate of A$60 per hour.

Astra Chauffeured Limousines (PHONE:13-2121) are reliable services.

By Taxi

Taxis are available outside the terminal buildings. The fare to city hotels is about A$30, about A$28 to Kings Cross.

By Train

The Airport Link (PHONE:13-1500; www.airportlink.com.au) rail service is the fastest connection between the city and the airport. Travel time to the city is 13 minutes, and trains depart every 5-10 minutes during peak hours and at least every 15 minutes at other times. One-way fare is A$10. The link meshes with the suburban rail network at Central Station and Circular Quay Station. On the downside, access to the platform is difficult for travelers with anything more than light luggage, trains do not have adequate stowage facilities, and for two traveling together, a taxi is more convenient and costs only slightly more.

Greyhound Pioneer Australia and McCafferty's bus service is available to all major cities from Sydney. You can purchase tickets for long-distance buses from travel agents, by telephone with a credit card, or at bus terminals. Approximate travel times by bus are: Sydney to Canberra, 4 hours; Sydney to Melbourne, 11 hours; Sydney to Brisbane, 11 hours; Sydney to Adelaide, 13 hours. The main terminal is the Central Station (Eddy Avenue) terminus just south of the City Center. Lockers are available in the terminal.

Greyhound Pioneer Australia (PHONE:13-2030; www.greyhound.com.au).

McCafferty's (PHONE:13-1499; www.mccaffertys.com.au).

With the assistance of a good road map or street directory, you shouldn't have too many problems driving in and out of Sydney, thanks to a decent freeway system. Keep in mind that Australia is almost as large as the United States minus Alaska. In computing your travel times for trips between Sydney and the following cities, allow for an average speed of about 85 kph (53 mph).

The main roads to and from other state capitals are: the 982-km (609-mi) Pacific Highway (Highway 1) north to Brisbane; the 335-km (208-mi) Hume Highway (Highway 31) southwest to Canberra, or 874 km (542 mi) to Melbourne; and the 1,038-km (644-mi) Princes Highway (Highway 1) to the NSW south coast and Melbourne. Adelaide is 1,425 km (884 mi) away via the Hume and Sturt (Highway 20) highways, and Perth is a long and rather tedious 4,132-km (2,562-mi) drive via Adelaide.

Cruise ships call frequently at Sydney as part of their South Pacific itineraries. Passenger ships generally berth at the Overseas Passenger Terminal at Circular Quay. The terminal sits in the shadow of Harbour Bridge, close to many of the city's major attractions as well as to the bus, ferry, and train networks. Otherwise, passenger ships berth at the Darling Harbour Passenger Terminal, a short walk from the city center.

The only major cruise line that calls regularly at Australian ports is P&O (PHONE:800/PRINCESS in the U.S.; 800/PRINCESS in Canada; 20/7800-2468 in the U.K.; 13-2469 in Australia; 0800/441-766 in New Zealand), which is known as Princess in other parts of the world. The company's huge Pacific Sky sails on 9- to 14-day cruises from Australia to various Pacific islands.

Other cruise lines -- Cunard and Holland America, for example -- sometimes include Australian ports in their round-the-world itineraries.

The main terminal for long-distance and intercity trains is Central Station (Eddy Ave., City South), about 2 km (1 mi) south of the city center.

Two daily services (morning and evening) operate between Sydney and Melbourne; the trip takes about 10 hours. Three Explorer trains make the four-hour trip to Canberra daily. The Indian-Pacific leaves Sydney on Monday and Thursday afternoons for Adelaide (26 hours) and Perth (64 hours). The overnight Brisbane XPT makes the 15-hour Sydney-Brisbane journey every day.

Call the state rail authority, Countrylink, between 6:30 AM and 10 PM daily for information about fares and timetables, or check the Countrylink Web site.

Tickets for long-distance train travel can be purchased from Countrylink Travel Centres (Eddy Ave., Central Station, City South, PHONE:13-2232; www.countrylink.nsw.gov.au) at Central Station, Circular Quay, Wynyard Station, and Town Hall Station.

As a rule, business hours in Australia are weekdays 9-5. This applies to post offices as well. In the Northern Territory, hours are most commonly 8-4:40 for government departments. When a holiday falls on a weekend, businesses are usually closed the following Monday. Note that in tourist areas most shops are open daily except on Good Friday, Easter, Christmas, and New Year's Day.

Gas Stations

Around urban areas and major highways, many gas stations stay open 24 hours. In rural areas, however, gas stations are usually open 8-6.

Pharmacies

Pharmacies are normally open weekdays 9-5:30, Saturday 9-12:30. Most cities have 24-hour pharmacies, usually in the nightlife district. Taxi drivers are the best source of advice for finding after-hours pharmacies.

Shops

Shops are normally open weekdays 8:30-5:30, with late closing at 9 PM on either Thursday or Friday. On Saturday shops are open from 8:30 to between noon and 4. Some stores, particularly those in the tourist areas of major cities, may be open a few hours on Sunday. In major cities and tourist areas, shops may have extended weekday hours. Some supermarkets are now open 24 hours.

Arriving in Australia

Australia has strict laws prohibiting or restricting the import of weapons and firearms. Antidrug laws are strictly enforced, and penalties are severe. All animals are subject to quarantine. Most canned or preserved food may be imported, but fresh fruit, vegetables, and all food served on board aircraft coming from other countries is forbidden. All food, seeds, and wooden artifacts must be declared on your customs statement. Nonresidents over 18 years of age may bring in 250 cigarettes, or 250 grams of cigars or tobacco, and 2 liters of liquor, provided this is carried with you. Other taxable goods to the value of A$400 for adults and A$200 for children may be included in personal baggage duty-free.

Information

Australian Customs Service (Box 8, Sydney, NSW, 2001, PHONE:02/9213-2000; 1300/363263; 1800/020504 quarantine-inquiry line, FAX: 02/9213-4043, www.customs.gov.au).

To use electric-powered equipment purchased in the United States or Canada, bring a converter and adapter. The electrical current in Australia is 240 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC). Wall outlets take slanted three-prong plugs (but not the U.K. three-prong) and plugs with two flat prongs set in a V.

If your appliances are dual-voltage, you'll need only an adapter. Don't use 110-volt outlets marked "For Shavers Only" for high-wattage appliances such as blow-dryers. Most laptops operate equally well on 110 and 220 volts and so require only an adapter.

Embassies and consulates in Australia provide assistance to their nationals in case of lost or stolen passports and documents, major medical problems, and other travel emergencies. U.S. citizens can also obtain tax and voting forms.

Consulates in Sydney

British Consulate General (Gateway Bldg., 1 Macquarie Pl., Level 16, Circular Quay, PHONE:02/9247-7521).

Canadian Consulate General (111 Harrington St., Level 5, The Rocks, PHONE:02/9364-3000).

New Zealand Consulate General (55 Hunter St., Level 10, City Center, PHONE:02/9223-0222).

U.S. Consulate General (19-29 Martin Pl., Level 59, City Center, PHONE:02/9373-9200).

Dial 000 for an ambulance, the fire department, or the police. Sydney Police Centre (PHONE:02/9281-0000).

Dentist

Dental Emergency Information Service (PHONE:02/9211-2224) provides names and numbers for nearby dentists. It's available only after 7 PM daily.

Hospitals

Royal North Shore Hospital (Pacific Hwy., St. Leonards, PHONE:02/9926-7111) is 7 km (4½ mi) northwest of the city center.

St. Vincent's Public Hospital (Victoria and Burton Sts., Darlinghurst, PHONE:02/9339-1111) is 2½ km (1½ mi) east of the city center.

24-hour Pharmacies

Your best bet for a late-night pharmacy is in the major city hotels or in the Kings Cross and Oxford Street (Darlinghurst) areas.

You can also call the Pharmacy Guild (PHONE:02/9966-8377) 24 hours a day for advice and assistance.

Australians are typically relaxed and informal in their social relationships, and visitors from most other cultures will have little trouble fitting in. Social behavior broadly follows the same patterns as those of North America and the British Isles.

Upon introduction, men will shake hands, but this will not usually be repeated on later encounters. A kiss on the cheek is a common greeting and farewell between the sexes, but only once the relationship has moved to a comfortable level of familiarity. Drinking remains an integral part of Australian culture, and drunkenness generally does not incur the same social stigma as in some cultures, provided the behavior remains within reasonable bounds.

Dozens of tour operators lead guided trips through Sydney and the surrounding areas. Options include shopping strolls, tours of the Sydney fish markets, and rappelling the waterfalls of the Blue Mountains. The Sydney Visitors Information Centre and other booking and information centers can provide you with many more suggestions and recommendations. Most suburban shopping plazas have a travel agency -- in addition to the many general and specialist travel agents in the city center.

Boat Tours

A replica of Captain Bligh's Bounty is alive and afloat on Sydney Harbour, and Bounty Cruises (PHONE:02/9247-1789; www.thebounty.com) conducts various harbor excursions. A lunch cruise (A$72 weekdays, A$99 weekends) departs daily at 12:30 and travels east along the harbor. Most of the voyage is made under sail, and all on board are encouraged to take a turn with the ropes and the wheel. A commentary is provided, and the cruise focuses as much on square-rigger sailing and the history of the Bounty as on the sights of Sydney Harbour. For photographers, the nightly 7 o'clock dinner cruise (A$109) affords spectacular possibilities. Cruises depart from Campbell's Cove, in front of the Park Hyatt Sydney Hotel.

Captain Cook Cruises (PHONE:02/9206-1122; www.captcookcrus.com.au) is the largest cruise operator on the harbor. Its best introductory trip is the 2½-hour Coffee Cruise, which follows the southern shore of the harbor to Watsons Bay, crosses to the north shore to explore Middle Harbour, and returns to Circular Quay. The Sydney Harbour Explorer cruise allows you to disembark from the cruise boat at the Opera House, Watsons Bay, Taronga Zoo, or Darling Harbour, explore, and catch any following Captain Cook explorer cruise. Four Explorer cruises (A$25) depart daily from Circular Quay at two-hour intervals, beginning at 9:30. Coffee cruises (A$39) depart daily at 10 and 2:15. Dinner, sunset, and show-time cruises are also available. All cruises depart from Wharf 6, Circular Quay.

The State Transit Authority (PHONE:13-1500; www.sydneybuses.nsw.gov.au) runs several cruises aboard harbor ferries, at lower costs than those of privately operated cruises. Light refreshments are available on board. All cruises depart from Wharf 4 at the Circular Quay terminal. The Morning Harbour Cruise (A$15), a one-hour journey, takes in the major sights of the harbor to the east of the city. The boat departs daily at 10 and 11:15. The Afternoon Harbour Cruise (A$22) is a leisurely 2½-hour tour that takes in the scenic eastern suburbs and affluent Middle Harbour. Tours leave weekdays at 1 and weekends at 1:30. The 1½-hour Evening Harbour Lights Cruise (A$19) takes you into Darling Harbour for a nighttime view of the city from the west, then passes the Garden Island naval base to view the Opera House and Kings Cross. Tours depart Monday through Saturday at 8 PM.

Bus Tours

The only guided bus tour of the inner city is the Sydney Explorer bus, which makes a 35-km (22-mi) circuit of all the major attractions, including The Rocks, Kings Cross, Darling Harbour, Chinatown, and across Harbour Bridge to Milsons Point. Ticket holders can board or leave the bus at any of the 26 stops along the route and catch any following Explorer bus. The bright red buses follow one another every 20 minutes, and the service operates from 8:40 daily. The last bus to make the circuit departs Circular Quay at 5:20. If you choose to stay on board for the entire circuit, the trip takes around 90 minutes.

The Bondi Explorer bus runs a guided bus tour of the eastern suburbs. The blue bus begins its 30-km (19-mi) journey at Circular Quay and travels through Kings Cross, Double Bay, Vaucluse, and Watsons Bay to the Gap, then returns to the city via Bondi, Bronte, and other beaches; Centennial Park; and Oxford Street. You can leave the bus at any of its 19 stops and catch a following bus, or remain on board for a round-trip of about 90 minutes. Buses follow one another at 30-minute intervals beginning at 9:15. The last bus departs Circular Quay at 4:15.

Tickets for either Explorer bus, valid for one day, cost A$30 and can be purchased on board or from the New South Wales Travel Centre.

Several coach companies run day trips in and around the Sydney region, reaching as far as the Blue Mountains, the Hunter Valley wine region, Canberra, wildlife parks, and the 2000 Olympics site at Homebush Bay. The major operators listed below all have a 24-hour information and reservation service.

Contacts

Australian Pacific Coaches (PHONE:1800/306306).

Murrays Australia (PHONE:13-2259).

New South Wales Travel Centre (11-31 York St., City Center, PHONE:13-2077).

State Transit Authority, Explorer Bus routes (PHONE:13-1500).

National Parks & Bush Tours

Bush Limousine Tour Company (PHONE:02/9418-7222) specializes in quality small-group tours. Off-the-shelf and tailor-made tours are available to places such as the Blue Mountains, the Southern Highlands, the Hunter Valley, and the alpine region of southern New South Wales.

Mount 'n Beach Safaris (PHONE:02/9267-5899) is a four-wheel-drive operator that arranges soft adventures to areas of outstanding beauty around Sydney. The Blue Mountains Wildlife Discovery allows you the chance to see koalas and kangaroos, enjoy morning tea in the bush, take in the scenic highlights of the Blue Mountains, lunch at a historic pub, and return to Sydney in time for a performance at the Opera House. The Mountain Wine and Waves tours of the Hunter Valley wine-growing district and the aquatic playground of Port Stephens are available in two- to five-day options.

Wildframe (PHONE:02/9314-0658) operates two one-day hiking-and-sightseeing trips to the Grand Canyon area, one of the loveliest parts of the Blue Mountains. Groups are limited to a maximum of 16, and all guides have specialist qualifications. The price is A$65, or A$90 for a slightly less demanding walk (the price includes lunch).

Special Interest Tours

BridgeClimb (PHONE:02/9252-0077; www.bridgeclimb.com.au) is a unique tour that affords the ultimate view of the harbor and city center. Wearing a special suit and harnessed to a static line, you can ascend the steel arch of the Sydney Harbour Bridge in the company of a guide. The tour lasts for three hours and costs from A$145 per person. Tours depart from 5 Cumberland Street, The Rocks. Night climbs are also available.

Easyrider Motorbike Tours (PHONE:02/9247-2477; www.easyrider.com.au) conducts exciting chauffeur-driven (you ride as a passenger) Harley-Davidson tours to the city's beaches, the Blue Mountains, Royal National Park, Hawkesbury River, and the Hunter Valley wineries. A two-hour tour costs A$190 per person, and a full-day excursion starts at about A$400.

Walking Tours

The Rocks Walking Tours (Kendall La., off Argyle St., The Rocks, PHONE:02/9247-6678) will introduce you to Sydney's European settlement site, with an emphasis on the neighborhood buildings and personalities of the convict period. The 1½-hour tour costs A$17.50 and involves little climbing. Tours leave weekdays at 10:30, 12:30, and 2:30, and weekends at 11:30 and 2.

Sydney Guided Tours (PHONE:02/9660-7157, FAX: 02/9660-0805, www.ozemail.com.au/~mpfry) with Maureen Fry are an excellent introduction to Sydney. Standard tours cost A$18 and cover the colonial buildings along Macquarie Street, a ramble through the historic waterside suburbs of Glebe and Balmain, or Circular Quay and The Rocks. Theme tours include art galleries, food and markets, heritage hotels, and a tour of the Opera Centre, where operas are rehearsed before they move to the Sydney Opera House.

Hygiene standards in Australia are high and well monitored, so don't worry about drinking the water or eating fresh produce. The primary health hazard is sunburn or sunstroke. Even if you're not normally bothered by strong sun you should cover up with a long-sleeve shirt, a hat, and long pants or a beach wrap. Keep in mind that at higher altitudes you will burn more easily. Apply sunscreen liberally before you go out -- even for a half hour -- and wear a visored cap and sunglasses.

Apply a reliable insect repellent like Aeroguard or Rid to protect yourself from mosquito bites during the summer months (particularly in the north of the continent). Although Australia is free of malaria, several cases of Ross River fever and dengue fever, both mosquito-transmitted viruses, have been reported in recent years. The mosquitoes that transmit these viruses are active in daylight hours.

Dehydration is a serious danger that can be easily avoided, so be sure to carry water and drink often. Above all, limit the amount of time you spend in the sun for the first few days until you are acclimatized, and avoid sunbathing in the middle of the day.

You may take a four weeks' supply of prescribed medication into Australia (more with a doctor's certificate). Medical professionals are highly trained and hospitals are well equipped.

Divers' Alert

Do not fly within 24 hours of scuba diving.

To an outsider's ear, Australian English can be mystifying. Not only is the accent thick and slightly slurred, but Australians have developed a vibrant vernacular quite distinct from that of any other English-speaking country. You can soon learn the idiom and how to speak "strine" -- as Aussies (who also call themselves "Ozzies") pronounce "Australian" -- with a copy of Danielle Martin's Australians Say G'Day, which comes with a cassette-tape recording to help you interpret the book's dialogues. Other useful guides to the intricacies of Australian terminology are Australian Slang, by Lenie Johansen, and The Best of Aussie Slang, by John Blackman. All of these books are available in Aussie bookstores.

Mail service in Australia is efficient. Allow a week for letters and postcards to reach the United States and the United Kingdom. Letters to New Zealand generally take four-five days. All mail travels by air.

Post Office

General Post Office (Martin Pl., City Center).

Overnight Service

DHL (PHONE:13-1406; www.dhl.com.au).

Federal Express (PHONE:13-2610; www.fedex.com.au).

Postal Rates

Postage rates are A 50¢ for domestic letters, A$1.65 per 50-gram (28.35 grams = 1 ounce) airmail letter, and A$1.10 for airmail postcards to North America and the United Kingdom. Overseas fax service costs around A$10 for the first page, plus A$4 for each additional page. There are different rates for posting small amounts of printed matter depending on the destination and the size and weight of the package; the post office will mark the individual rate.

Receiving Mail

You can receive mail care of General Delivery (known as Poste Restante in Australia) at the General Post Office or any branch post office. The service is free and mail is held for one month. It is advisable to know the correct Australian postal code (zip code) of the area you are visiting. These are available from the Australian Consulate General. The zip code will allow you to receive mail care of Poste Restante (General Delivery) at the area's General Post Office. You will need identification to pick up mail. Alternatively, American Express offers free mail collection at its main city offices for its cardholders.

Shipping Parcels

Rates for large parcels shipped to other countries from Australia depend on their weight and shape. Some companies provide boxes, and any materials you can fit inside weighing up to 25 kilograms (about 55 pounds) will cost about A$215, excluding any U.S. import charges. You can also consult your airline to find the rates for unaccompanied luggage. Overnight courier services like DHL and Federal Express will deliver packages of any size -- for a price.

If you're shipping items in excess of 50 kilograms (110 pounds), it's less expensive to send goods by sea via a shipping agent. Shipping time to the United States and Europe is 10-12 weeks.

ATMs

ATMs are prevalent in airports, shopping malls, and tourist areas. Cirrus and Plus cards are accepted at most ATMs, but check with your bank to make sure that you'll be able to access your funds overseas and that you have a four-digit PIN.

Currency

Australia's currency operates on a decimal system, with the dollar (A$) as the basic unit and 100 cents (¢) equaling $1. Bills come in $100, $50, $20, $10, and $5 denominations, which are differentiated by color and size. Coins are minted in $2, $1, 50¢, 20¢, 10¢, and 5¢ denominations.

Taxes

Everyone leaving Australia pays a departure tax, known as a Passenger Movement Charge, of A$38. This amount is prepaid with your airline ticket. Except for food, all goods and services incur a Goods and Services Tax (GST) of 10%.

Tipping

Hotels and restaurants do not add service charges, but it is a widely accepted practice to tip a waiter 10%-12% for good service, although many Australians consider it sufficient to leave only A$3 or A$4. It's not necessary to tip a hotel doorman for carrying suitcases into the lobby, but porters could be given A$1 a bag. Room service and housemaids are not tipped except for special service. Taxi drivers do not expect a tip, but you may want to leave any small change. Guides, tour bus drivers, and chauffeurs don't expect tips either, though they are grateful if someone in the group takes up a collection for them. No tipping is necessary in beauty salons or for theater ushers.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Australia

You need a valid passport to enter Australia for stays of up to 90 days. In addition, all travelers to Australia, other than Australian and New Zealand citizens, also require a visa or Electronic Travel Authority (ETA). The free ETA, an electronically stored travel permit, replaces the visa label or stamp in a passport, and it enables passengers to be processed more quickly on arrival in Australia. ETAs are available through participating travel agencies and airlines.

To obtain an ETA for Australia, you must: hold a valid passport approved for ETA and travel with that passport; visit Australia for the purpose of tourism, family, or business meetings; stay less than three months; be in good health; and have no criminal convictions. If you're planning on getting a tourist ETA or visa, no work in the country is allowed.

People who don't meet the above requirements should contact the nearest Australian diplomatic office for advice on appropriate types of visas. Fees are applicable for visas. If you travel to Australia on an under-three-month ETA and later decide to extend your visit, then a visa must be applied for at the nearest Australian Immigration regional office (a fee of A$180 is applicable).

If you fly on Qantas you can obtain an Australian visa from the airline. Otherwise application forms are available from one of the offices listed below. Children traveling on a parent's passport do not need a separate application form, but should be included under Item 16 on the parent's form. The completed form and passport must be sent or brought in person to an issuing office, together with a recent passport-type photograph signed on the back (machine photographs are not acceptable).

If you plan to stay more than three months you must obtain a visa; contact the Consulate-General for information on the appropriate procedure. A $60 fee is applicable.

For more information on passport and visa requirements, visit the Department of Immigration and Multicultural and Indigenous Affairs Web site (www.immi.gov.au).

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE:131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0G3, PHONE:819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE:04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE:0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE:900/225-5674 calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service; $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Australian rest rooms are usually of the highest standards of cleanliness. In major cities, there may be a nominal charge to use them. Railway and bus stations are good places to find public rest rooms. In country towns and at roadside rest areas, rest rooms are usually free. There are fewer facilities in remote areas. Long-distance buses have rest rooms on board.

Given Australia's relaxed ways, it's easy to be seduced into believing that crime is practically nonexistent. In fact, Australia has its share of poverty, drugs, and crime. If you encounter anything it will most likely be theft, and although crime rates are not high by world standards, you need to exercise caution. In major tourist areas such as Sydney's Bondi or Queensland's Gold Coast, the risk increases. When you park your vehicle, hide any valuables. Don't leave anything of value on the beach when you go for a swim. Under no conditions should you hitchhike.

Always be cautious with your money and documents. Be particularly careful when withdrawing money from an ATM, where a number of locals and travelers have been robbed. If you need to withdraw funds, do so during daylight hours, in the company of family or friends, and in a safe location.

Women in Australia

Traveling in Australia is generally safe for women, provided you follow a few common-sense precautions. Avoid isolated areas such as empty beaches. At night, avoid quiet streets. You will probably receive attention if you enter pubs or clubs alone. Cafés are a safer bet. Look confident and purposeful.

The telephone code for Sydney and New South Wales is 02. If you're calling a New South Wales number that is a nonlocal call, you'll need to dial 02 before the eight-digit local number.

Australia's telephone system is efficient and reliable. You can make long-distance and international calls from any phone in the country. Australian phone numbers have eight digits.

Hotels impose surcharges that can double or even triple the cost of making calls from your room. Get around this by making calls from a public phone, or by charging to a local account (contact your local telephone service for details). Australia's cellular phones operate on either a GSM (Global System for Mobiles) or CDMA (Code Division Multiple Access) system. All compatible cellular phones will operate in Australia, but check first with your carrier to make sure that your particular phone has been cleared for international access. Some functions -- such as message bank callback -- will not work outside your home country. Your pager will not work in Australia.

Area & Country Codes

The country code for Australia is 61. From the United States, dial 011, then 61, then the local area code. From the United Kingdom, dial 00, then 61. When dialing an Australian number from abroad, drop the initial 0 from the local area code.

Area codes for the major cities are: Sydney and Canberra, 02; Melbourne and Hobart, 03; Brisbane and Cairns, 07; Adelaide, Darwin, and Perth, 08.

Directory & Operator Assistance

For local directory assistance, call 1223. For international directory assistance, call 1225. For information on international call costs, call 1800/113011.

International Calls

Calls from Australia to the United States, Canada, and the United Kingdom cost A$1 for the first 10 minutes and then an additional A 30¢-A 50¢ per minute, plus a A 25¢ connection fee. Operator-assisted calls can be made from any phone with IDD (International Direct Dialing) access. Check local phone directories for international operator numbers. For a person-to-person call to the United States, the connection fee is A$3.50, plus A$2.51 per minute. A collect call is known as a "reverse-charge" call.

Local Calls

A local call costs A 40¢. Australian numbers with a 13 prefix can be dialed countrywide for the cost of a local call. For example, dialing a 13-number for a company in Melbourne when you are in Sydney will be billed as a local call. You can dial 1300 numbers countrywide for the cost of a local call. Toll-free numbers in Australia have an 1800 prefix. Unless otherwise noted, toll-free numbers in this book are accessible only within Australia.

Long-Distance Calls

Long-distance calls can be dialed directly using the city code or area code. Rates are divided into two time periods: Day (weekdays 7 AM-7 PM) and Economy (weekdays 7 PM-7 AM and Friday 7 PM-Monday 7 AM). Area codes are listed in the white pages of local telephone directories.

All telephone numbers in Australia have eight digits. Exceptions are toll-free numbers and numbers with the prefix 13. The latter are countrywide and thus carry no area code at all. When you are calling long-distance numbers within Australia, remember to include the area code, even when you are calling from a number with the same area code. For example, if you are making a call from Sydney to Canberra, you need to include the area code even though both have the same 02 prefix.

Public Phones

Public telephones are located throughout the city. The cost of a local call is 40¢. Some public phones will accept coins; more will accept phone cards, which are available in units of A$5, A$10, A$20, and A$50 from post offices and businesses that display the yellow "Phonecard" sign.

Tourist Offices

In Sydney

There are tourist information booths throughout the city, including Circular Quay, Martin Place, Darling Harbour, and the Pitt Street Mall.

The Backpacker's Travel Centre (Shop 33, Imperial Arcade, off Pitt St. near Market St., City Center, PHONE:02/9231-3699) specializes in budget tours, lodging, and information.

The CitySearch (www.sydney.citysearch.com.au) Web site is a great resource for the latest on Sydney's arts, food, and nightlife scene.

Countrylink (Shop W15, Wynyard Concourse, Wynyard Station, City Center, PHONE:13-2829), the state rail authority, is a good source of Sydney and New South Wales travel information.

The Sydney Information Line (PHONE:02/9265-9007) has useful recorded service and entertainment information.

The Sydney Visitors Information Centre (106 George St., The Rocks, PHONE:02/9255-1788, FAX: 02/9241-5010, www.sydneyvisitorcentre.com) is the major source of information, brochures, and maps for Sydney and New South Wales.

The Tourist Information Service (PHONE:02/9669-5111) is a free phone-in facility that provides information on accommodations, tours, and shopping. It also provides other tips on what to see and do in Sydney.

At Home

The Australian Tourist Commission (U.S., 2049 Century Park E, Los Angeles, CA, 90067, PHONE:310/229-4870, FAX: 310/552-1215) has an Aussie Help Line, available from 8 AM to 7 PM Central Standard Time to answer specific questions about planning your trip.

Australian Travel Headquarters (1600 Dove St., Suite 215, Newport Beach, CA, 92660, PHONE:714/852-2270 or 800/546-2155, FAX: 714/852-2277) has information on South Australia.

For general information contact the national and regional tourism offices and call for the free information-packed booklet "Destination Australia" booklet (PHONE:800/333-0262, in the United States).

Before you go, contact Friends Overseas -- Australia (68-01 Dartmouth St., Forest Hills, NY, 11375, PHONE:718/261-0534) to be put in touch with Australians who share your interests. Membership is A$25.

Australia is in the Southern Hemisphere, so the seasons are reversed. It's winter Down Under during the American and European summer.

The best times to visit Sydney are during late spring and early fall. The spring months of October and November are pleasantly warm, although the ocean is slightly cool for swimming. The midsummer months of December through February are typically hot and humid, with the likelihood of fierce tropical downpours in January and February. In the early autumn months of March and April, weather is typically stable and comfortable, outdoor city life is still in full swing, and the ocean is at its warmest. Even the coolest winter months of July and August typically stay mild and sunny, with average daily maximum temperatures in the low 60s.

During school holidays, Australians take to the roads in droves. Accommodations and attractions are crowded and hotel rooms and rental cars are unlikely to be discounted during these periods. The busiest period is mid-December to the end of January, which is the equivalent of the U.S. and British summer break. The dates of other school vacations vary from state to state, but generally fall around Easter, mid-June to July, and late September to mid-October.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Sydney:

January 65-79°F (18-26°C); February 65-79°F (18-26°C); March 63-76°F (17-24°C); April 58-72°F (14-22°C); May 52-67°F (11-19°C); June 49-61°F (9-16°C); July 49-61°F (9-16°C); August 49-63°F (9-17°C); September 52-67°F (11-17°C); October 56-72°F (13-22°C); November 61-74°F (16-23°C); December 63-77°F (17-25°C).

Holidays

New Year's Day, January 1; Australia Day, January 26; Good Friday, April 9, 2004; March 25, 2005. Easter, April 11, 2004; March 27, 2005. Easter Monday, April 12, 2004; March 28, 2005. ANZAC Day, April 25; Christmas, December 25; Boxing Day, December 26. There are also a small number of extra public holidays specific to each state and territory.

Despite its vast size, Sydney packs its primary attractions into a fairly small area. For the most part, public transport is an efficient, economical way to see the city. Getting to and from such areas as The Rocks, Darling Harbour, and the Opera House is simple on Sydney's buses, ferries, and trains, except during rush hours. Once you're there, these areas are best explored on foot.

A TravelPass allows unlimited travel aboard buses, ferries, and trains, but not trams, within designated areas of the city for a week or more. The most useful is probably the weeklong Blue TravelPass (A$27), which covers the city and eastern suburbs and inner-harbor ferries. (Ferries to Manly and trains will cost extra.) TravelPasses are available from railway and bus stations and from most newsagents on bus routes.

If you're planning on spending three days or fewer in Sydney and taking the Airport Express bus, the guided Sydney Explorer and Bondi Explorer buses, and any of the three sightseeing cruises operated by the State Transit Authority, SydneyPass (A$90 for three days, five- and seven-day passes available) will save you money. In addition to free travel on all these services, the pass also allows unlimited travel on any public bus or harbor ferry and on most suburban train services. Purchase passes from the Tourism New South Wales counter on the ground floor of the international airport terminal or from the driver of any Explorer or Airport Express bus.

For route, timetable, and ticket price information on Sydney's buses, ferries, and trains call the State Transit Infoline (PHONE:13-1500; www.sydneybuses.nsw.gov.au), daily 6 AM-10 PM.

Bus travel in Sydney is rather slow due to the city's congested roads and undulating terrain. Fares are calculated by the number of city sections traveled. The minimum two-section bus fare (A$1.50) applies to trips throughout the inner-city area. You would pay the minimum fare, for example, for a ride from Circular Quay to Kings Cross, or from Park Street to Oxford Street in Paddington. Tickets may be purchased from the driver, who will compute the fare based on your destination. Discounted fares are available in several forms, including Travelten passes (valid for 10 journeys), which start at A$11.30 and are available from bus stations and most newsagents.

For route, timetable, and ticket price information on Sydney's buses call the State Transit Authority (PHONE:13-1500; www.sydneybuses.nsw.gov.au), daily 6 AM-10 PM.

Driving a car around Sydney is not particularly recommended. Close to the city, the harbor inlets plus the hilly terrain equal few straight streets. Parking space is limited, and both parking lots and parking meters are expensive. If you do decide to drive, ask your car-rental agency for a street directory or purchase one from a newsstand.

Road maps are available at most gas stations, although the choice may be limited. For more detailed maps, look in bookstores in the major cities. If you're planning an extensive road journey, pick up a comprehensive road atlas -- such as the annual, widely available Explore Australia atlas published by Viking.

Car Rentals

If you rent from a major international company, expect to pay about A$75 per day for a medium-size automatic and about A$65 for a standard compact. However, if you go with a local operator, such as Bayswater, you might pay as little as A$25 per day if you're prepared to drive a slightly older model vehicle with higher mileage (usually one-two years old). Some of these discount operators restrict travel to within a 50-km (30-mi) radius of the city center, and one-way rentals are not possible. A surcharge applies if you pick up your car from the airport.

Agencies

Avis (PHONE:13-6333).

Bayswater (PHONE:02/9360-3622).

Budget (PHONE:13-2727).

Dollar (PHONE:02/9223-1444).

Hertz (PHONE:13-3039).

Thrifty (PHONE:1300/367227).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE:800/522-9696; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE:800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE:800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE:800/800-6000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; where it's affiliated with Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE:800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE:800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Thrifty (PHONE:800/367-2277; www.thrifty.com).

Emergency Services

If you have an emergency requiring an ambulance, the fire department, or the police, dial tel. 000. Many major highways now have telephones for breakdown assistance. Otherwise, flag down and ask a passing motorist to call the nearest motoring service organization for you. Most Australian drivers will be happy to assist, particularly in country areas.

Each state has its own motoring organization that provides assistance for vehicle breakdowns. When you hire a vehicle, you are entitled to assistance from the relevant motoring organization, free of charge. A toll-free, nationwide number is available for roadside assistance.

Motoring Organization Hotline (PHONE:13-1111).

Gasoline

Service stations are generally plentiful, although full service is common only in rural areas. American Express, MasterCard, and Visa are accepted at most service stations. Pumps are easy to operate and should be familiar to most drivers from North America and Europe.

Insurance

When driving a rented car you are generally responsible for any damage to or loss of the vehicle. You also may be liable for any property damage or personal injury that you may cause while driving. Before you rent, see what coverage you already have under the terms of your personal auto-insurance policy and credit cards.

Although insurance is included with standard rental vehicles in Australia, you are still responsible for an "excess" fee -- a maximum amount that you will have to pay if damage occurs. Fines can be incurred for such accidents as a cracked windshield, which is a common occurrence on Australian roads. The amount of this "excess" is generally around A$2,000, but you can have this figure reduced by paying a daily fee.

Requirements

In Australia you must be 21 to rent a car, and rates may be higher if you're under 25. There is no upper age limit for rental so long as you have a valid driver's license.

Your own driver's license is accepted at most rental companies, provided that the information on the license is clear. An International Driver's Permit is required at others (but they will still want to see your own license). The international permit is available from the American or Canadian automobile association, and in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club.

Road Conditions

Except for some expressways in and around the major cities, most highways are two-lane roads with frequent passing lanes. Main roads are usually paved and well maintained, though traffic lanes are narrower than in the United States.

Rules of the Road

Driving is easy in Australia, once you adjust to traveling on the left. The catch-phrase is: drive left, look right. "Look right" is the pedestrian's caveat -- and a serious one. For Americans, stepping into the street means looking left for oncoming traffic. Do that Down Under and you could get slammed from the right by an oncoming bus.

Traffic circles are widely used at intersections throughout Australia. Cars that have already entered the circle have the right-of-way.

Speed limits are 50-60 kilometers per hour (kph) in populated areas, and 100-110 kph on open roads -- the equivalent of 31-37 and 62-68 mph, respectively. There are no speed limits on the open road in the Northern Territory. Limits in school areas are usually around 40 kph (25 mph). Surveillance of speeders and "drink-driving" (the legal limit is a tough.05% blood-alcohol level) is thorough, and penalties are high. Seat belts are mandatory nationwide for drivers and all passengers. Children must be restrained in a seat appropriate to their size. These can be hired from car-rental agencies.

There is no finer introduction to the city than a trip aboard one of the commuter ferries that ply Sydney Harbour. The hub of the ferry system is Circular Quay, and ferries dock at the almost 30 wharves -- which span the length and breadth of the harbor -- between about 6 AM and 11:30 PM. One of the most popular sightseeing trips is the Manly ferry, a 30-minute journey from Circular Quay that provides glimpses of harborside mansions and the sandstone cliffs and bushland along the north shore. On the return journey, consider taking the JetCat, which skims the waves in an exhilarating 15-minute trip back to the city. But be warned: passengers are not allowed on deck, and the views are obscured.

The one-way Manly ferry fare is A$5.30, and the JetCat costs A$6.70. Fares for shorter inner-harbor journeys start at A$4.20. You can also buy economical ferry-and-entrance-fee passes, available from the Circular Quay ticket office, to such attractions as Taronga Zoo and Sydney Aquarium.

The sleek RiverCat ferries travel west from Circular Quay as far as Parramatta. These ferries are used overwhelmingly by commuters, although they also provide a useful and practical connection to Homebush Bay, site of Sydney Olympic Park. The A$20 fare to the park includes bus service to the Olympic Park Information Centre.

For route, timetable, and ticket price information on Sydney's ferries call the State Transit Authority (PHONE:13-1500; www.sydneybuses.nsw.gov.au).

Chauffeur-driven limousines are available for trips around Sydney. At your request, the driver will give commentary on the major sights. Limousines can be rented for approximately A$80 per hour.

Astra Chauffeured Limousines (PHONE:13-2121).

Sydney Monorail is one of the fastest, most relaxing forms of public transport in the city, but its use is limited to travel between the city center, Darling Harbour, and Chinatown. The fare varies from A$2.60 to A$3.60 per one-way trip, and A$3.90 to A$4.90 for a round-trip ticket. An A$8 Day Ticket is a better value if you intend to use the monorail to explore. You can purchase tickets at machines in the monorail stations. The monorail operates every 2-6 minutes, generally from 7 AM-10 PM, and until midnight on Friday and Saturday. Stations are identified by a large white "M" against a black background.

The Sydney Light Rail, identifiable by signs with a large black "M" against a white background, is a limited system that provides a fast, efficient link between Central Station, Darling Harbour, the Star City casino and entertainment complex, Sydney fish markets, and the inner-western suburbs of Glebe and Lilyfield. The modern, air-conditioned tram cars operate at 5- to 11-minute intervals, 24 hours a day. One-way tickets are A$2.60 to A$3.60, and the Day Pass is a comparatively good value at A$8. You can purchase tickets at machines in Light Rail stations.

For routes, schedules, and fares, contact Sydney Light Rail and Monorail information (PHONE:02/8584-5288; www.metromonorail.com.au or www.metrolightrail.com.au).

Taxis are a relatively economical way to cover short to medium distances in Sydney. A 3-km (2-mi) trip from Circular Quay to the eastern suburbs costs around A$14. Drivers are entitled to charge more than the metered fare if the passenger's baggage exceeds 55 pounds, if the taxi has been booked by telephone, or if the passenger crosses Harbour Bridge, where a toll is levied. Fares are 10% higher between 10 PM and 5 AM, when the numeral "2" will be displayed in the tariff indicator on the meter. At all other times, make sure the numeral "1" is displayed. Taxis are licensed to carry four passengers.

Most drivers will accept payment by American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, and Visa, although a 10% surcharge is applied. Taxis can be hailed on the street, hired from a taxi stand, or booked by phone. Taxi stands can be found outside most bus and railway stations, as well as outside the larger hotels.

Complaints should be directed to Taxi Cab Complaints (PHONE:1800/648478).

Taxi Companies

ABC Taxis (PHONE:13-2522).

Taxis Combined Services (PHONE:02/8332-8888).

The main terminal for long-distance and intercity trains is Central Station (Eddy Ave., City South), about 2 km (1 mi) south of the city center.

For journeys in excess of 7 km (4 mi), Sydney's trains are considerably faster than buses. However, the rail network has been designed primarily for rapid transit between outlying suburbs and the city. Apart from the City Circle line, which includes the Circular Quay and Town Hall stations and the spur line to Kings Cross and Bondi Junction, the system does not serve areas of particular interest to tourists. If you plan on using the trains, remember the following axioms: all trains pass through Central Station; Town Hall is the "shoppers" station; the bus, ferry, and train systems converge at Circular Quay. Trains generally operate from 4:30 AM to midnight.

As an example of fare prices, a one-way ticket from Town Hall Station to Bondi Junction costs A$2.60. Several discounted fares are also available, including off-peak tickets that apply on weekends and after 9 AM on weekdays.

A fun, fast, but somewhat expensive way to get around is by water taxi. (Circular Quay to Watsons Bay, for example, costs A$50.) These operate to and from practically anywhere on Sydney Harbour that has wharf or steps access.

Harbour Taxi Boats (PHONE:02/9555-1155).

Taxis Afloat (PHONE:02/9955-3222).