This ryotei is neither inaccessible nor outrageously expensive. Most ryotei tend to oppress the first-time visitor a little with the weight of their antiquity and the ceremonious formality of their service. Tatsumiya, which opened in 1980, takes a different attitude to the past: the rooms are almost cluttered with antique chests, braziers, clocks, lanterns, bowls, utensils, and craft work. The cuisine itself follows the kaiseki repertoire, derived from the tradition of the tea-ceremony meal. Seven courses are offered, including something raw, something boiled, something vinegared, something grilled. You must arrive before 8:30 for dinner. Jacket and tie. Subway: Ginza and Toei Asakusa lines, Asakusa Eki (Exit 1 or 3).