Meguro, a neighborhood distinguished for almost nothing else culinary, has the ichiban-no (number one) tonkatsu ryori (deep-fried pork cutlet cookery) in Tokyo. It's a family joint, with Formica-top tables and a fellow who comes around to take your order while you're waiting the requisite 10 minutes in line. And people do wait in line, every night until the place closes at 10:30. Tonki is one of those successful places that never went conglomerate; it kept getting more popular and never got around to putting frills on what it does best: pork cutlets, soup, raw cabbage salad, rice, pickles, and tea. That's the standard course, and almost everybody orders it, with good reason. Subway: JR Yamanote Line, Meguro Eki (Nishi-guchi/West Exit).