Although the Japanese prefer their sushi bars immaculately clean and light, they expect yakitori joints to be smoky, noisy, and cluttered -- like Ganchan. There's counter seating only, for about 15, and you have to squeeze to get to the chairs in back by the kitchen. Festival masks, paper kites and lanterns, gimcracks of all sorts, handwritten menus, and greeting cards from celebrity patrons adorn the walls. Behind the counter, the cooks yell at each other, fan the grill, and serve up enormous schooners of beer. Try the tsukune (balls of minced chicken) and the fresh asparagus wrapped in bacon. Ganchan is open from 5:30 PM to 1 AM Monday-Saturday and until 11 PM on Sunday and holidays. Subway: Hibiya Line, Roppongi Eki (Exit 1A).