The style here is robatayaki, the ambience pure theater. The centerpiece is a large U-shape counter. Inside, two cooks in traditional garb sit on cushions behind the grill, with a wonderful cornucopia of food spread out in front of them: fresh vegetables, seafood, skewers of beef and chicken. Point to what you want, or tell your waiter. The cook will bring it up out of the pit, prepare it, and hand it across on an 8-ft wooden paddle. Expect a half-hour wait any evening after 7. Inakaya is open from 5 PM to 5:30 AM. Reservations not accepted. Subway: Hibiya Line, Roppongi Eki (Exit 3).