The best seats in the house at Tenmatsu, as in any tempura-ya, are at the immaculate wooden counter, where your tidbits of choice are taken straight from the oil and served up immediately. You also get to watch the chef in action. Tenmatsu's brand of good-natured professional hospitality adds to the enjoyment of the meal. Here you can rely on a set menu or order à la carte delicacies like lotus root, shrimp, unagi (eel), and kisu (a small white freshwater fish). Call ahead to reserve a seat at the counter. Subway: Shibuya Eki (Minami-guchi/South Exit for JR lines, Exit 3A for Ginza and Hanzo-mon subway lines).