This is one of the dozens of monjya-yaki restaurants that line the streets of Tsukishima, a five-minute subway ride from Yuraku-cho. A close relative of the western Japanese meal-in-a-pancake innovation okonomi-yaki, monjya-yaki is a cuisine that's genuinely Shitamachi -- old Tokyo downtown. Unlike okonomi-yaki, however, monjya-yaki uses no eggs and less flour. The menu lists more than 20 eclectic combinations, of which the most popular are sliced potatoes and mayonnaise, tara-ko (cod roe), and mochi (rice cakes), as well as the standard mix of beef, pork, shrimp, and squid seasoned in soy sauce. Subway: Yuraku-cho and Oedo lines, Tsukishima Eki (Exit 7).