The specialty here is shabu-shabu (thin slices of beef cooked in boiling water at your table and dipped in sauce). Normally, this is an informal -- if pricey -- sort of meal; after all, you do get to play with your food a bit. Kisoji, however, adds a dimension of posh to the experience: private dining rooms with tatami seating, elegant little rock gardens, and alcoves with flower arrangements -- all the tasteful appointments of a traditional ryotei. Subway: Ginza and Marunouchi lines, Akasaka-mitsuke Eki (Belle Vie Akasaka Exit).