Tokyo has two airports, Narita and Haneda. Narita Kuko (NRT)is 80 km (50 mi) northeast of Tokyo and serves all international flights, except those operated by (Taiwan's) China Airways, which uses Haneda Kuko.Narita added a new terminal building in 1992, which has eased traffic, but it can still be bottlenecked. In the shopping-restaurant area between the two wings is the Japan National Tourist Organization's Tourist Information Center, where you can get free maps, brochures, and other information. Directly across from the customs area exits at both terminals are the ticket counters for Airport Limousine Buses to Tokyo.

Haneda Kuko (HND) 16 km (10 mi) southwest of Tokyo, serves all domestic flights. At Haneda, Japan Airlines (JAL), All Nippon Airways (ANA), and Japan Air System have extensive domestic flight networks.

Flying time to Japan is 13¾ hours from New York, 12¾ hours from Chicago, 9½ hours from Los Angeles, and 11-12 hours from the United Kingdom. Your trip east, because of tail winds, will be about 45 minutes shorter than your westbound flight.

Carriers

International Carriers

American (PHONE: 800/433-7300).

All Nippon Airways (PHONE: 800/235-9262; 020/7355-1155 in the U.K.; 03/5489-8800 in Japan [domestic]; 0120/029-333 in Japan [international]).

British Airways (PHONE: 0345/222-111 in the U.K.; 800/247-9297 in U.S.);PHONE: 0345/222-111 in the U.K.; 800/247-9297 in U.S.

Continental (PHONE: 800/525-0280).

Delta (PHONE: 800/221-1212).

Japan Airlines (PHONE: 800/525-3663; 0345/747-700 in the U.K.; 0120/25-5931 in Japan).

Japan Air System (PHONE: 03/3438-1155 in Japan [domestic]; 0120/511-283 in Japan [international]).

Korean Air (PHONE: 800/438-5000; 0800/413-000 in the U.K.).

Lufthansa (PHONE: 0345/737-747 in the U.K.; 800/645-3880 in the U.S.);PHONE: 0345/737-747 in the U.K.; 800/645-3880 in the U.S.

Northwest (PHONE: 800/447-4747).

Swissair (PHONE: 020/7434-7300 in the U.K.).

Thai Airways International (PHONE: 800/426-5204; 020/7499-9113 in the U.K.).

United (PHONE: 800/241-6522).

Domestic Carriers

All Nippon Airways (PHONE: 800/235-9262; 020/7355-1155 in the U.K.; 03/5489-8800 in Japan [domestic]; 0120/029-333 in Japan [international]).

Japan Airlines (PHONE: 800/525-3663; 0345/747-700 in the U.K.; 0120/25-5931 in Japan).

Japan Air System (PHONE: 03/3438-1155 in Japan [domestic]; 0120/511-283 in Japan [international]).

Transfers Between Narita Airport and Center City

By Bus

Two services, the Airport Limousine Bus and the Airport Express Bus, run from Narita to the largest and most expensive hotels in the city's different areas and to the JR Tokyo and Shinjuku stations; the fare is ¥2,700-¥3,050, depending on your destination. Even if you are not staying at one of the route's drop-off points, you can take the bus as far as the one closest to your hotel and then use a taxi for the remaining distance.

Keep in mind that these buses only run every hour, and they do not run after 11 PM. The trip is scheduled for 70-90 minutes but can take two hours in heavy traffic. Ticket counters are in the arrival lobbies, across from the customs-area exit. Buses leave from platforms just outside terminal exits, exactly on schedule; the departure time is on the ticket.

A bus to the Tokyo City Air Terminal (TCAT) leaves approximately every 10-15 minutes from 6:45 AM to 11 PM; the fare is ¥2,900, and you can buy tickets at the hotel bus ticket counter. TCAT is in Nihombashi in north-central Tokyo, a bit far from most destinations, but from here you can connect directly with the Suitengu Eki on the Hanzo-mon subway line, then to anywhere in the subway network. A taxi from TCAT to most major hotels will cost about ¥3,000.

By Taxi or Limousine

Taxis are rarely used between Narita Airport and central Tokyo -- at ¥20,000 or more, depending on traffic and where you're going, the cost is prohibitive. Station-wagon taxis do exist, and the meter rates are the same as for the standard sedans, but they are not always available.

Limousines are also very expensive; from Narita Airport to the Imperial Hotel downtown, for example, will set you back about ¥35,000.

By Train

Trains run every 30-40 minutes between Narita Airport Train Station and the Keisei-Ueno Eki on the privately owned Keisei Line. The Keisei Skyliner takes 57 minutes and costs ¥1,920. The first Skyliner leaves at 7:49 AM, the last at 9:58 PM. It only makes sense to take the Keisei, however, if your final destination is in the Ueno area; otherwise, you must change to the Tokyo subway system or the Japan Railways loop line at Ueno (the station is adjacent to Keisei-Ueno Eki) or take a cab to your hotel.

Japan Railways (PHONE: 03/3423-0111 for JR East Infoline) has greatly improved its airport service with trains that stop at both terminals. The fastest and most comfortable is the Narita Limited Express (N'EX), which makes 23 runs a day in each direction.

Trains from the airport go directly to the central Tokyo Eki in just under an hour, then continue to Yokohama and Ofuna. Daily departures begin at 7:43 AM; the last train is at 9:43 PM. The one-way fare is ¥2,940 (¥4,980 for the first-class "Green Car" and ¥5,380 per person for a private compartment that seats four).

All seats are reserved, and you'll need to reserve one for yourself in advance, as this train fills quickly. The less elegant kaisoku (rapid train) on JR's Narita Line also runs from the airport to Tokyo Eki, by way of Chiba; there are 16 departures daily, starting at 7 AM. The fare to Tokyo is ¥1,280 (¥2,210 for the Green Car); the ride takes 1 hour and 27 minutes.

Transfers Between Haneda Airport and Center City

By Monorail

The monorail from Haneda Airport to Hamamatsu-cho Eki in Tokyo is the fastest and cheapest way into town; the journey takes about 17 minutes, and trains run approximately every 5 minutes; the fare is ¥470. From Hamamatsu-cho Eki, change to a JR train or take a taxi to your destination.

By Taxi

A taxi to the center of Tokyo takes about 40 minutes; the fare is approximately ¥8,000.

The Shinkansen (bullet train), one of the fastest trains in the world, connects major cities north and south of Tokyo. It is only slightly less expensive than flying but is in many ways more convenient because train stations are more centrally located than airports (and, if you have a Japan Rail Pass, it's extremely affordable).

On the Tokaido Line, the main line that runs west from Tokyo to Nagoya, Kyoto, Kobe, Osaka, Hiroshima, and the island of Kyushu, there are three types of Shinkansen. The Nozomi makes the fewest stops, which can cut as much as an hour from long, cross-country trips; it is the only Shinkansen on which you cannot use a JR Pass. The Hikari makes just a few more stops than the Nozomi. The Kodama is the equivalent of a Shinkansen local, making all stops along the Shinkansen lines. All trains on this line leave from Tokyo Eki in central Tokyo.The same principal of faster and slower Shinkansen also applies to the Tohoku Line, which runs north from from Tokyo to Sendai and Morioka, in the Tokyo region. Trains on this line leave from Ueno Eki.

JR Shinkansen and express trains on the Joetsu Line (to Niigata) use both Tokyo Eki and Ueno Eki. JR express trains to the Japan Alps (Matsumoto) use Shinjuku Eki.

A new bullet train now runs from Tokyo Eki to Nagano. Named the Hokuriku Shinkansen, it uses the Joetsu Shinkansen tracks to Takasaki, where it branches off for Nagano.

Other trains, though not as fast as the Shinkansen, are just as convenient and cheaper. There are three types of train services: futsu (local service), tokkyu (limited express service), and kyuko (express service). Both the tokkyu and the kyuko offer a first-class compartment known as the Green Car.

Because there are no porters or carts at train stations, and the flights of stairs connecting train platforms can turn even the lightest bag into a heavy burden, it is a good idea to travel light when getting around by train.

Savvy travelers often have their main luggage sent ahead to a hotel they plan to reach later in their itinerary. It's also good to know that every train station, however small, has luggage lockers, which cost about ¥300 for 24 hours.

Japan Rail Pass

A Japan Rail Pass offers unlimited travel on Japan Railways (JR) trains. It is possible to purchase one-, two-, or three-week passes. A one-week pass is less expensive than a regular round-trip ticket from Tokyo to Kyoto on the Shinkansen.

Travelers must obtain a rail pass voucher prior to departure for Japan (they are not obtainable in Japan), and the pass must be used within three months of purchase. The pass is available only to people with tourist visas, as opposed to business, student, and diplomatic visas.

Upon arrival in Japan, exchange the voucher for the Japan Rail Pass. You can do this at the Japan Railways (JR) desk in the Arrivals Hall at Narita Airport or at the JR stations of major cities. When making this exchange, determine the days you want to begin and end travel. Travel does not have to commence on the day you make the exchange; instead, pick the starting date to maximize use. The Japan Rail Pass allows you to travel on all JR-operated trains (which cover most destinations in Japan) but not lines owned by other companies.

The JR Pass is also valid on buses operated by Japan Railways. You can make seat reservations without paying a fee on all trains that have reserved-seat coaches, usually the long-distance trains. The Japan Rail Pass does not cover the cost of sleeping compartments on overnight trains (called blue trains), nor does it cover the newest and fastest of the Shinkansen trains, the Nozomi, which make only one or two stops on longer runs. The pass covers only the Hikari Shinkansen, which make a couple more stops than the Nozomi, and the Kodama Shinkansen, which stop at every station along the Shinkansen routes.

Japan Rail Passes are available in coach class and first class (green car), but most find that coach class is more than adequate. A one-week pass costs ¥28,300 coach class, ¥37,800 first class; a two-week pass costs ¥45,200 coach class, ¥61,200 first class; and a three-week pass costs ¥57,700 coach class, ¥79,600 first class. Travelers under 18 pay lower rates. The pass pays for itself after one Tokyo-Kyoto round-trip Shinkansen ride.

Information

Japan Railways Group (1 Rockefeller Plaza, Suite 1622, New York, NY 10020 USA, PHONE: 212/332-8686, FAX: 212/332-8690).

Buying a Pass

Contact a travel agent or Japan Airlines (JAL; 655 5th Ave., New York, NY 10022 USA, PHONE: 212/838-4400), Japan Travel Bureau (JTB; 810 7th Ave., 34th floor, New York, NY 10019 USA, PHONE: 212/698-4900 or 800/223-6104), or Nippon Travel Agency (NTA; 111 Pavonia Ave., Suite 317, Jersey City, NJ 07310 USA, PHONE: 201/420-6000 or 800/682-7872).

Fares & Schedules

Information

JR Hotline English-language information service (PHONE: 03/3423-0111; weekdays 10-6).

Reservations

Many travelers assume that rail passes guarantee seats on the trains they wish to ride. Not so. If you are using a rail pass, there is no need to buy individual tickets, but you should book seats ahead. This guarantees you a seat and is also a useful reference for the times of train departures and arrivals. You can reserve up to two weeks in advance or just minutes before the train departs. If you fail to make a train, there is no penalty, and you can reserve again.

Seat reservations for any JR route may be made at any JR station except those in the tiniest villages. The reservation windows or offices, midori-no-madoguchi, have green signs in English and green-stripe windows. If you are traveling without a Japan Rail Pass, there is a surcharge of approximately ¥500 (depending upon distance traveled) for seat reservations, and if you miss the train, you'll have to pay for another reservation. When making your seat reservation, you may request a no-smoking or smoking car. Your reservation ticket shows the date and departure time of your train as well as your car and seat number.

On the platform you can figure out where to wait for a particular train car. Notice the markings painted on the platform or on little signs above the platform; ask someone which markings correspond to car numbers. If you don't have a reservation, ask which cars are unreserved. Sleeping berths, even with a rail pass, are additional. Unreserved tickets can be purchased at regular ticket windows. Reservations cannot be made for local service trains. For traveling short distances, tickets are usually sold at vending machines. A platform ticket is required if you go through the wicket gate onto the platform. The charge is ¥140 (in Tokyo and Osaka, the tickets are ¥120).

Most clerks at train stations know a few basic words of English and can read Roman script. Moreover, they are usually willing to help you plot your route. The complete railway timetable is a mammoth book written in Japanese; however, you can get an English-language train schedule from the Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO) that covers the Shinkansen and a few of the major JR Limited Express trains. JNTO's booklet The Tourist's Handbook provides helpful information about purchasing tickets in Japan.

General business hours in Japan are 9-5 weekdays. Many offices are also open at least half of the day on Saturday but are generally closed on Sunday.

Banks are open 9-3 weekdays and 9-noon on the first and last Saturdays of the month. They are closed on Sunday.

Department stores are usually open 10-7 but are closed one day a week, which varies from store to store.

Other stores are open from 10 or 11 to 7 or 8.

Arriving in Japan

Japan has strict regulations about bringing firearms, pornography, and narcotics into the country. Anyone caught with drugs is likely to be detained, deported, and refused reentry into Japan. Certain fresh fruits, vegetables, plants, and animals are also illegal. Nonresidents are allowed to bring in duty-free: (1) 400 cigarettes or 100 cigars or 500 grams of tobacco; (2) three bottles of alcohol; (3) 2 ounces of perfume; (4) other goods up to ¥200,000 value.

To use your U.S.-purchased electric-powered equipment, bring a converter and adapter. The electrical current in Japan is 100 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC) in eastern Japan, and 100 volts, 60 cycles in western Japan; the United States runs on 110-volt, 60-cycle AC current. Wall outlets in Japan accept plugs with two flat prongs, like in the United States, but do not accept U.S. three-prong plugs.

If your appliances are dual-voltage, you'll need only an adapter. Don't use 110-volt outlets, marked "For Shavers Only," for high-wattage appliances such as blow-dryers. Most laptops operate equally well on 110 and 220 volts and so require only an adapter. Check your owner's manual or your laptop's specifications if you are unsure.

Australia

Australian Embassy and Consulate (2-1-14 Mita, Minato-ku, Tokyo, PHONE: 03/5232-4111; weekdays 9-noon and 1:30-5). Subway: Toei Mita Line, Shiba-Koen Eki (Exit A2).

Canada

Canadian Embassy and Consulate (7-3-38 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo, PHONE: 03/3408-2101; weekdays 9-12:30 and 1:30-5:30). Subway: Hanzomon and Ginza lines, Aoyama-itcho-me Eki (Exit 4).

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy (20-40 Kamiyama-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, PHONE: 03/3467-2271; weekdays 9-12:30 and 1:30-5:30). Subway: Chiyoda Line, Yoyogi-koen Eki (minami-guchi/south exit).

United Kingdom

British Embassy and Consulate (1 Ichiban-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, PHONE: 03/5211-1100; Sun.-Fri. 9-noon and 2-5:30). Subway: Hanzomon Line, Hanzomon Eki (Exit 4).

United States

U.S. Embassy and Consulate (1-10-5 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo, PHONE: 03/3224-5000; weekdays 8:30-12:30 and 2-5:30). Subway: Namboku Line, Tameike-sanno Eki (Exit 13).

Ambulance and Fire, PHONE: 119.

Police, PHONE: 110.

Tokyo English Life Line (TEL; PHONE: 03/3968-4099) is a telephone service available 9 AM-4 PM and 9 PM-11 PM for anyone in distress who cannot communicate in Japanese. The service will relay your emergency to the appropriate Japanese authorities and/or will serve as a counselor.

Assistance in English is available 24 hours a day on the toll-free Japan Helpline (PHONE: 0120/461-997).

Doctors

International Catholic Hospital (Seibo Byoin). 2-5-1 Naka Ochiai, Shinjuku-ku, PHONE: 03/3951-1111. Accepts emergencies. Appointments Mon.-Sat. 8 AM-11 AM; outpatient services closed 3rd Sat. of month. Subway: Toei Line 12, Ochiai-minami-nagasaki Eki (higashi-guchi/east exit).

International Clinic. 1-5-9 Azabu-dai, Roppongi, Minato-ku, PHONE: 03/3582-2646 or 03/3583-7831. Accepts emergencies. Appointments weekdays 9-noon and 2:30-5, Sat. 9-noon. Subway: Hibiya Line, Roppongi Eki (Exit 3).

St. Luke's International Hospital. A member of the American Hospital Association. 9-1 Akashi-cho, Chuo-ku, PHONE: 03/3541-5151. Accepts emergencies. Appointments weekdays 8:30 AM-11 AM. Subway: Hibiya Line, Tsukiji Eki (Exit 3).

Tokyo Medical and Surgical Clinic. 32 Mori Bldg., 3-4-30 Shiba Koen, Minato-ku, PHONE: 03/3436-3028. Appointments weekdays 9-4:45, Sat. 9-1. Subway: Toei Mita Line, Onarimon Eki (Exit A1).

Dentists

Yamauchi Dental Clinic. A member of the American Dental Association. Shiroganedai Gloria Heights, 1st floor, 3-16-10 Shiroganedai, Minato-ku, PHONE: 03/3441-6377. Weekdays 9-1 and 3-6, Sat. 9-noon. Subway: JR Yamanote Line, Meguro Eki (higashi-guchi/east exit).

Late-Night Pharmacies

There are no 24-hour drugstores in Tokyo.

The American Pharmacy (Hibiya Park Building, 1-8-1 Yuraku-cho, Chiyoda-ku, PHONE: 03/3271-4034) stocks American products. It's near the Tourist Information Center and is open Monday-Saturday 9:30-7:30 and Sunday 10-6:30. Note that grocery stores frequently carry such basics as aspirin.

Nagai Yakkyoku (1-8-10 Azabu Ju-ban, Minato-ku, PHONE: 03/3583-3889) is open Wednesday-Monday 10-7 and will mix a Chinese and/or Japanese herbal medicine for you after a consultation. You can't fill a doctor's prescription here, but you can find something for a headache or stomach pain. A little English is spoken.

Propriety is an important part of Japanese society and culture. Many Japanese expect foreigners to behave differently and are tolerant of faux pas, but they are pleasantly surprised when people acknowledge and observe their customs. The easiest way to ingratiate yourself with the Japanese is to take time to learn and respect Japanese ways.

The concept of being fashionably late does not exist in Japan; it is extremely important to be prompt for both social and business occasions. Japanese addresses tend to be complicated, and traffic is often heavy, so allow for adequate travel time.

It is customary to bow upon meeting someone. The art of bowing is not simple; the depth of your bow depends on your social position in respect to that of the other person. Younger people, or those of lesser status, must bow deeper in order to indicate their respect and acknowledge their position. Foreigners are not expected to understand the complexity of these rules, and a basic nod of the head will suffice. Many Japanese are familiar with Western customs and will offer a hand for a handshake.

Do not be offended if you are not invited to someone's home. Most entertaining among Japanese is done in restaurants or bars. It is an honor when you are invited to a home; this means your host feels comfortable and close to you. If you do receive an invitation, bring along a small gift -- a souvenir from your country is always the best present, but food and liquor or anything that can be consumed (and not take up space in the home) are also appreciated. Upon entering a home, remove your shoes in the foyer and put on the slippers that are provided (in Japan, shoes are for wearing outdoors only). It is important to have socks or stockings that are in good condition.

Japanese restaurants often provide a small hot towel called an oshibori. This is to wipe your hands but not your face. You may see some Japanese wiping their faces with their oshibori, but sometimes this is considered to be in bad form. If you must use your oshibori to remove forehead perspiration, wipe your face first, then your hands. When you are finished with your oshibori, do not just toss it back onto the table, but fold or roll it up.

If you are not accustomed to eating with chopsticks, ask for a fork instead. When taking food from a shared dish, do not use the parts of the chopsticks that have entered your mouth; use the end that you have been holding in your hand.

Business Etiquette

As Japan's role in the global economy expands, the number of business travelers to this country increases. Although many business practices are universal, certain customs remain unique to Japan. It is not necessary to observe these precepts, but the Japanese always appreciate it if you do.

In Japan, meishi (business cards) are mandatory. Upon meeting someone for the first time, it is common to bow and proffer your business card simultaneously. Although English-only business cards suffice, it is better to have one side printed in Japanese (there are businesses in Japan that provide this service in 24 hours). Japanese sometimes have difficulty with Western names, and referring to the cards is helpful. Also, in a society where hierarchy matters, Japanese like to know job titles and rank, so it is useful if your card indicates your position in your company. Japanese often place the business cards they have received in front of them on a table or desk as they conduct their meetings. Follow suit and do not simply shove the card in your pocket.

Most Japanese are not accustomed to using first names in business circumstances. Even coworkers of 20 years' standing use surnames. Unless you are sure that the person with whom you are dealing is comfortable with Western customs, it is best to stick to last names and use the honorific word -san after the name, as in Tanaka-san (Mr. or Mrs. Tanaka). Also, respect the hierarchy, and as much as possible address yourself to the most senior person in the room.

Don't be frustrated if decisions are not made instantly. Rarely empowered to make decisions, individual businesspeople must confer with their colleagues and superiors. Even if you are annoyed, don't express anger or aggression. Losing one's temper is equated with losing face in Japan.

The separation of business and personal life is sacrosanct in Japan, and it is best not to ask about personal matters. Rather than ask about a person's family, for instance, it is better in conversation to stick to neutral subjects. This does not mean that you can only comment on the weather, just that you should take care not to be nosy.

Because of cramped housing, many Japanese entertain in restaurants or bars. It is not customary for Japanese businessmen to bring wives along. If you are traveling with your spouse, do not assume that an invitation includes both of you. You may ask if it is acceptable to bring your spouse, but remember that it is awkward for a Japanese person to say no. You should pose the question carefully, such as "Will your [wife or husband] come along, too?" This eliminates the need for a direct, personal refusal.

Entertaining is usually done over dinner, followed by an evening on the town. Drinking is something of a national pastime in Japan. If you would rather not suffer from a hangover the next day, do not refuse your drink -- sip, but keep your glass at least half full. Because the custom is for companions to pour drinks for each other, an empty glass is nearly the equivalent of requesting another drink. Whatever you do, don't pour your own drink, and if a glass at your table happens to be empty, show your attentiveness by filling it for your companion.

For women traveling on business in this country it is important to remember that many Japanese women do not have careers. In addition, many Japanese businessmen do not yet know how to interact with Western businesswomen. They may be uncomfortable, aloof, or patronizing. Be patient and, if the need arises, gently remind them that, professionally, you expect to be treated as any man would be.

Nightlife Tours

Sunrise Tours (PHONE: 03/5620-9500) offers night tours (6-11:30) of Tokyo, which, depending on your selection, include Kabuki drama at the Kabuki-za, a sukiyaki dinner, or a cabaret-floor show in Roppongi. Prices are ¥7,500-¥13,000, depending on which parts of the tour you include.

Japan Gray Line (PHONE: 03/3433-5745) has similar programs.

Orientation Tours

Sunrise Tours (PHONE: 03/5620-9500) and the Japan Gray Line (PHONE: 03/3433-5745) run bus excursions around Tokyo with English-speaking guides. Tours vary with the current demands of the market. Most include the Tokyo Tower Observatory, the Imperial East Garden, a demonstration of flower arrangement at the Tasaki Pearl Gallery, and/or a Sumida-gawa cruise to Senso-ji in Asakusa. In general, these are four-hour morning or afternoon tours; a full-day tour (seven hours) combines most of what is covered in half-day excursions with a tea ceremony at Happo Garden and lunch at the traditional Chinzan-so restaurant. Costs range from ¥3,600 to ¥11,850. Tours are conducted in large, air-conditioned buses that set out from Hamamatsu-cho Bus Terminal, but there is also free pickup and return from major hotels. (If you travel independently and use the subway, we estimate that you could manage the same full-day itinerary for under ¥3,000, including lunch.)

Personal Guides

The Japan Guide Association (PHONE: 03/3213-2706) provides English-speaking guides. You will need to negotiate your own itinerary and price with the guide. Fees run ¥20,000-¥30,000 for a full eight-hour day.

Special-Interest Tours

Sunrise Tours (PHONE: 03/5620-9500) offers trips to Tokyo Disneyland on Tuesday and Friday, but only in one direction: buses pick up passengers at major hotels but let them find their own way back to Tokyo at the end of the day. The cost is ¥9,100.

Communicating in Japan can be a challenge, not because the Japanese don't speak English but because most of us know little, if any, Japanese. It is worthwhile to take some time before you leave home to learn a few basic words, such as where (doko), what time (nan-ji), bathroom (o-te-arai), thanks (arigato gozaimasu), excuse me (sumimasen), and please (onegai shimasu).

English is a required subject in Japanese schools, so most Japanese study it for nearly a decade. This does not mean everyone speaks English. Schools emphasize reading, writing, and grammar. As a result, many Japanese can read English but can speak only a few basic phrases. Furthermore, when asked, "Do you speak English?" many Japanese, out of modesty, say no, even if they do speak a little. It is usually best to simply ask what you really want to know slowly, clearly, and as simply as possible. If the person you ask understands, he or she will answer or perhaps take you where you need to go.

Although locals may understand your question, they cannot always give you an answer if it entails complicated instructions. For example, you may ask someone on the subway how to get to a particular stop, and he may direct you to the train across the platform and then say something in Japanese that you do not understand. You may discover too late that the train runs express to the suburbs after the third stop; the person who gave you directions was trying to tell you to switch trains at the third stop. To avoid this kind of trouble, ask more than one person for directions every step of the way. You can avoid that trip to the suburbs if you ask someone on the train how to get where you want to go. Also, remember that politeness is a matter of course in Japan and that the Japanese won't want to lose face by saying that they don't know how to get somewhere. If the situation gets confusing, bow, say arigato gozaimashita ("thank you" in the past tense), and ask someone else. Even though you are communicating on a very basic level, misunderstandings can happen easily.

Traveling in Japan can be problematic if you don't read Japanese. Before you leave home, buy a phrase book that shows English, English transliterations of Japanese (romaji), and Japanese characters (kanji and kana). You will read the romaji to pick up a few Japanese words and match the kanji and kana in the phrase book with characters on signs and menus. When all else fails, ask for help by pointing to the Japanese words in your book.

Learning Japanese is a major commitment. Japanese writing alone consists of three character systems: kanji, characters borrowed and adapted from China centuries ago, which represent ideas; and two forms of kana -- hiragana and katakana -- which represent sounds. Hiragana is used to write some Japanese words, verb inflections, and adjectives; katakana is used for foreign words, slang expressions, and technical terms. There are two sets of 47 kana and more than 6,000 kanji, although most Japanese use fewer than 1,000 kanji. This is obviously more than a tourist can learn in a short stay, so you will find yourself scanning your surroundings for romaji, which are easier to interpret.

The most common system of writing Japanese words in Roman letters is the modified Hepburn system, which spells out Japanese words phonetically and is followed on this site.

Gai-jin and Gai-koku-jin

There is some disagreement over the use of gai-jin (literally, "outside person") as opposed to gai-koku-jin (literally, "outside country person") because the former has negative echoes of the days of Japanese isolationism. In the 17th and 18th centuries, when the Japanese had contact only with Dutch traders, Westerners were called butta-kusai (literally, "stinking of butter") -- obviously a derogatory term. Gai-koku-jin, on the other hand, has a softer, more polite meaning, and many Westerners in Japan prefer it because it has no xenophobic taint.

We have chosen to use the word gai-jin instead of gai-koku-jin to translate the word foreigner for two reasons. First, it is commonly used in books written by Westerners who have lived in Japan, and as such it has wider recognition value. Second, as Japan becomes more global -- especially its younger generation -- gai-jin is losing its negative sense. Many Japanese use gai-jin as the one word they know to describe non-Japanese and most often mean no offense by it.

So if children giggle and point at the gai-jin-san, know that it is meant with only the kindest fascination. And if you feel that extra politeness is appropriate, use gai-koku-jin with colleagues whom you respect -- or with whomever might be using gai-jin a bit too derogatorily.

The Japanese postal service is very efficient. Although numerous post offices exist in every city, it is probably best to use the central post office near the main train station because the workers speak English and can handle foreign mail. Some of the smaller post offices are not equipped to send packages.

Post offices are open weekdays 8-5 and Saturday 8-noon. The main International Post Office is on the Imperial Palace side of JR Tokyo Eki (2-3-3 Ote-machi, Chiyoda-ku, PHONE: 03/3241-4891). It is open 24 hours year-round.

Most hotels have stamps and will mail your letters and postcards; they will also give you directions to the nearest post office.

The Japanese postal service has implemented use of three-numeral-plus-four postal codes, but their policy is similar to that in the United States regarding ZIP-plus-fours; that is, addresses with the three-numeral code will still arrive at their destination, albeit perhaps one or two days later. Mail to rural towns may take longer. Your local JNTO, consulate, or embassy will provide the four-digit codes if you need them, though they aren't essential.

Postal Rates

It costs ¥110 to send a letter by air to North America and Europe. An airmail postcard costs ¥70. Aerograms cost ¥90.

Receiving Mail

To get mail, have parcels and letters sent poste restante at the central post office in major cities; unclaimed mail is returned after 30 days. Tokyo's American Express office (Halifax Bldg., 16-26 Roppongi 3-chome, Minato-ku, Tokyo) is another good place to have mail sent.

Japan is expensive, but there are ways to cut costs. This requires, to some extent, an adventurous spirit and the courage to stray from the standard tourist paths. A good way to economize is to avoid taxis (they tend to get stuck in traffic anyway) and try the inexpensive, efficient subway system; instead of going to a restaurant with menus in English and Western-style food, go to places where you can rely on your good old index finger to point to the dish you want, and try food that the Japanese eat.

Currency

The unit of currency in Japan is the yen (¥). There are bills of ¥10,000, ¥5,000, and ¥1,000. Coins are ¥500, ¥100, ¥50, ¥10, ¥5, and ¥1. Japanese currency floats on the international monetary exchange, so changes can be dramatic.

Exchanging Money and Funds Transfers

Most hotels will change both traveler's checks and notes into yen. However, their rates are always lower than at banks. Because Japan is safe and free of street crime, you may consider exchanging large sums of money into yen at banks at any time. Most of the larger banks have a foreign exchange counter. Banking hours are weekdays 9-3.

Major banks can transfer funds to and from overseas. Two banks that may be familiar to you are Bank of America (Arc Mori Bldg., 1-12-32 Akasaka, Minato-ku, PHONE: 03/3587-3111; Subway: Namboku subway line, Tameike Sanno Eki, Exit 13) and Citibank (2-3-14 Higashi-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku, PHONE: 0120/50-4189 toll-free; Subway: JR Shinagawa Eki, higashi-guchi/east exit).

American Express has a banking office in its headquarters in the American Express Tower (4-30-16 Ogikubo, Suginami-ku, PHONE: 03/3220-6100; Subway: JR Chuo Line, Ogikubo Eki, higashi-guchi/east exit) and at its branch in the Yuraku-cho Denki Building (1-7-1 Yuraku-cho, Chiyoda-ku, PHONE: 03/3214-0280; Subway: JR Yamanote Line or Hibiya subway line, Yuraku-cho Eki, nishi-guchi/west exit for JR and Exit A2 for Hibiya Line).

Taxes

Hotel

A 5% federal consumer tax is added to all hotel bills. Another 3% local tax is added to the bill if it exceeds ¥15,000. You may save money by paying for hotel meals separately rather than charging them to your bill.

At first-class, full-service, and luxury hotels, a 10% service charge is added to the bill in place of individual tipping. At the more expensive ryokan, where individualized maid service is offered, the service charge is usually 15%. At business hotels, minshuku, youth hostels, and economy inns, no service charge is added to the bill.

Sales

There is an across-the-board, nonrefundable 5% consumer tax levied on all sales. Since the tax was introduced in 1989, vendors have either been absorbing the tax in their quoted retail prices or adding it on to the sale. Before you make a major purchase, inquire if tax is extra.

A 5% federal consumer tax is added to all restaurant bills. Another 3% local tax is added to the bill if it exceeds ¥7,500. At the more expensive restaurants, a 10%-15% service charge is added to the bill.

Tipping

Tipping is not common in Japan. It is not necessary to tip taxi drivers, or at beauty parlors, barber shops, bars, or nightclubs. A chauffeur for a hired car usually receives a tip of ¥500 for a half-day excursion and ¥1,000 for a full-day trip. Porters charge fees of ¥250-¥300 per bag at railroad stations and ¥200 per piece at airports.

It is not customary to tip employees of hotels, even porters, unless a special service has been rendered. In such cases, a gratuity of ¥2,000 or ¥3,000 should be placed in an envelope and handed to the staff member discreetly.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport or to renew is during the fall and winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0990/210-410) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service).

The country code for Japan is 81. When dialing a Japanese number from outside of Japan, drop the initial 0 from the local area code.

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

Directory & Operator Information

For Tokyo telephone numbers, dial 104; for elsewhere in Japan, dial 105. Dial 03/5295-1010 for service in English Monday-Friday, 9-5.

NTT (Japanese Telephone Corporation, PHONE: 0120-36-4463) will help find information (in English), such as telephone numbers, museum openings, and various other information available from its databases.

International Calls

You can make international calls from the green phones that have gold plates indicating in English that they can be used for such calls.

There are three Japanese companies that provide international service: KDD (001), ITJ (0041), and IDC (0061). Dial: company code + country code + city/area code and number of your party. KDD offers the clearest connection but is also the most expensive.

Telephone credit cards are especially convenient for international calls. For operator assistance in English on long-distance calls, dial 0051.

Long-Distance Calls

AT&T, MCI, and Sprint access codes make calling long distance convenient, but you may find the local access number blocked in many hotel rooms. First ask the hotel operator to connect you. If the hotel operator balks, ask for an international operator or dial the international operator yourself. One way to improve your odds of getting connected to your long-distance carrier is to travel with more than one company's calling card (a hotel may block Sprint, for example, but not MCI). If all else fails call from a pay phone.

Access Codes

AT&T Direct (PHONE: 800/435-0812). MCI WorldPhone (PHONE: 800/444-4141). Sprint International Access (PHONE: 800/877-4646).

Public Phones

Pay phones are one of the great delights of Japan. Not only are they conveniently located in hotels, restaurants, and on street corners, but pay phones, at ¥10 for three minutes, have to be one of the few remaining bargains in Japan.

Telephones come in three styles: pink, red, and green. Pink phones, for local calls, accept only ¥10 coins. Most red phones are only for local use, but some accept ¥100 coins and can be used for long-distance domestic calls. Domestic long-distance rates are reduced as much as 50% after 9 PM (40% after 7 PM). Green phones take coins and often accept telephone cards -- disposable cards of fixed value that you use up in increments of ¥10. Telephone cards, sold in vending machines, hotels, and a variety of stores, are tremendously convenient because you will not have to search for the correct change.

Tourist Offices

In Tokyo

The Teletourist (PHONE: 03/3201-2911) offers recorded information 24 hours a day.

Japan National Tourist Organization: (6-6 Yurakucho 1-chome, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, PHONE: 03/3502-1461.

The Tourist Information Center (TIC) in the Tokyo International Forum, at the north end of the lower concourse, is an extremely useful source of free maps and brochures. The center also advises on trip planning in Japan. Make a point of dropping by early in your stay in Tokyo. 3-5-1 Maru-no-uchi, Chiyoda-ku, 03/3201-3331. Weekdays 9-5, Sat. 9-noon. Subway: Yuraku-cho Line, Yuraku-cho Eki (Exit A-4B).

The TIC also has an outpost at Narita Airport (PHONE: 0476/32-8711).

Asakusa Tourist Information Center, opposite Kaminari-mon, has some English-speaking staff and plenty of maps and brochures. 2-18-9 Kaminari-mon, Taito-ku, PHONE: 03/3842-5566. Daily 9:30-8. Subway: Ginza Line, Asakusa Eki (Exit 2).

At Home

The Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO) has many branches overseas:

Japanese National Tourist Organization: 1 Rockefeller Plaza, Suite 1250, New York, NY 10020 USA, PHONE: 212/757-5640.

401 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60601 USA, PHONE: 312/222-0874.

360 Post St., Suite 601, San Francisco, CA 94108 USA, PHONE: 415/989-7140.

515 S. Figueroa St., Suite 1470, Los Angeles, CA 90071 USA, PHONE: 213/623-1952).

165 University Ave., Toronto, Ontario M5H 3B8 Canada, PHONE: 416/366-7140.

Heathcoat House, 20 Savile Row, London W1X 1AE England, PHONE: 020/7734-9638.

U.S. Government Advisories

U.S. Department of State (Overseas Citizens Services Office, Room 4811 N.S., 2201 C St. NW, Washington, DC 20520; PHONE: 202/647-5225 for interactive hot line; 301/946-4400 for computer bulletin board; FAX: 202/647-3000 for interactive hot line); enclose a self-addressed, stamped business-size envelope.

The best seasons to travel to Japan are spring and fall, when the weather is best. In spring, the country is warm, with only occasional showers, and flowers grace landscapes in both rural and urban areas. The first harbingers of spring are plum blossoms in early March; sakura (cherry blossoms) follow, usually arriving in Tokyo by mid-April.

Summer brings on the rainy season, with particularly heavy rains and mugginess in July. Fall is a welcome relief, with clear blue skies and beautiful foliage. Occasionally a few surprise typhoons occur in early fall, but the storms are usually as quick to leave as they are to arrive. Winter is gray and chilly, with little snow in most areas. Temperatures rarely fall below freezing.

For the most part, the climate is temperate, similar to that of the East Coast of the United States.

In general, the Japanese tend to take their vacations at the same time, on specific holidays. As a result, planes, trains, and hotels are booked far in advance. Many businesses, shops, and restaurants are closed during these holidays. Holiday periods include the days before and after New Year's; Golden Week, which follows Greenery Day (April 29); and mid-August, at the time of the Obon festivals, when many Japanese return to their hometowns.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Tokyo:

Average maximum and minimum temperatures for Tokyo are as follows: Jan.-Feb., 29-48°F (-2-9°C); Mar.-Apr., 35-62°F (2-17°C); May-June, 53-75°F (12-24°C); July-Aug., 70-86°F (21-30°C); Sept.-Oct., 56-78°F (13-26°C), Nov.-Dec., 33-60°F (1-16°C).

Holidays

As elsewhere, peak times for travel in Japan tend to fall around holiday periods, listed below.

January 1 (Ganjitsu, New Year's Day); January 15 (Senjin-no-hi, Coming of Age Day); February 11 (Kenkoku Kinen-no-bi, National Foundation Day); third week in March (Shumbun-no-hi, Vernal Equinox); April 29 (Midori-no-hi, Greenery Day); May 3 (Kempo Kinen-bi, Constitution Day); May 5 (Kodomo-no-hi, Children's Day); September 15 (Keiro-no-hi, Respect for the Aged Day); third week in September (Shubun-no-hi, Autumnal Equinox); October 10 (Taiiku-no-hi, Sports Day); November 3 (Bunka-no-hi, Culture Day); November 23 (Kinro Kansha-no-hi, Labor Thanksgiving Day); December 23 (Tenno Tanjobi, Emperor's Birthday).

Daunting in its sheer size, Tokyo is, in fact, an extremely easy city to negotiate. If you have anxieties about getting from place to place, remind yourself first that a transportation system that handles 4 or 5 million commuters a day simply has to be efficient, extensive, and reasonably easy to understand. Remind yourself also that virtually any place you're likely to go as a visitor is within a 15-minute walk of a train or subway station -- and that station stops are always marked in English. Of course, exceptions to the rule exist -- the system has its flaws. In the following outline you'll learn about things to avoid and get a few pointers that will save you time -- and money -- as you go.

Because Tokyo has no rational order -- no grid -- bus routes are impossibly complicated. The Tokyo Municipal Government operates some of the lines; private companies run the rest. There is no telephone number even a native Japanese can call for help. And buses all have tiny seats and low ceilings. Forget about buses.

You can hire large and comfortable cars (the Japanese call them haiya) for about ¥5,000 per hour for a midsize car, up to ¥18,000 per hour for a Cadillac limousine. Call Hinomaru (PHONE: 03/3505-0707). The Imperial, Okura, and Palace hotels also have limousine services.

Car Rentals

Congestion, high gas prices, lack of road signs in English, and the difficulty of parking make driving in Tokyo impractical. Trains and subways get you to your destinations faster and more comfortably.But if you do wish to drive in Tokyo, an international driver's license is required. Rates begin at $87 a day and $437 a week for an economy car with unlimited mileage. This does not include tax, which is 5% on car rentals. Reservations in the United States should be made at least a week in advance.

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633; 020/8759-6200 in the United Kingdom).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 020/8897-0811 in the United Kingdom; 02/9223-1444 in Australia).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 03/358-6777 in New Zealand).

National (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom).

In Tokyo

Both of these companies have offices all around Tokyo and Japan:

Nippon National (2-1 Yaesu, Chuo-ku, PHONE: 03/3469-0919).

Toyota Rent-a-Car (2-3-18 Kudan Minami, Chiyoda-ku, PHONE: 03/3263-6321).

Requirements

In Japan your own driver's license is not acceptable. You need an international driver's permit; it's available from the American automobile association (PHONE: 800/564-6222) or Canadian automobile association (PHONE: 613/247-0117), or, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association (PHONE: 0990/500-600) or Royal Automobile Club (PHONE: 0990/722-722 for membership; 0345/121-345 for insurance).

Rules of the Road

In Japan people drive on the left. Speed limits vary, but generally the limit is 80 kph (50 mph) on highways, 40 kph (25 mph) in cities.

The best ride in Tokyo, hands down, is the suijo basu (river bus), which runs from the mouth of the Sumida-gawa upstream to Asakusa. It's operated by the Tokyo Cruise Ship Company from Hinode Pier (2-7-104 Kaigan, Minato-ku, PHONE: 03/3457-7830) in glassed-in double-decker boats that depart roughly every 30 minutes, 10:30-3 daily (with extended weekday service to 4:45 July-August). The trip takes 35 minutes and costs ¥800. The pier is a 7-minute walk from Hamamatsu-cho Eki on the JR Yamanote Line.

The Sumida-gawa was once Tokyo's lifeline, a busy highway for travelers and freight alike. The ferry service dates to 1885. Some people still take it to work, but today most passengers are Japanese tourists. Here are some sights to watch out for on your journey: Tsukiji Market, the largest wholesale fish and produce market in the world; the vast reclamation/construction projects meant to sate the city's insatiable need for high-tech office space; the old lumberyards and warehouses upstream; and the Kokugikan, with its distinctive green roof, which is the new arena and headquarters of sumo wrestling.

Another place to catch the ferry is at the Hama Rikyu Tei-en (Detached Palace Garden), a 15-minute walk from Ginza. Once part of the imperial estates, the gardens are open to the public for a separate ¥300 entrance fee. The ferry landing is inside, a short walk to the left as you enter the main gate. Boats depart at 45-minute intervals every weekday 10:15-4:05; the fare to Asakusa is ¥660; from Asakusa to Hama Rikyu, for some unfathomable reason, the fare is ¥620.

Tokyo is served by 13 subway lines, eight of them operated by the Rapid Transportation Authority (Eidan) and five by the Tokyo Municipal Authority (Toei). Maps, bilingual signs at entrances, and even the trains are color-coded for easy identification. Subway trains run roughly every five minutes from about 5 AM to midnight; except during rush hours, the intervals are slightly longer on the newer Toei lines.

The network of interconnections (subway to subway and train to subway) is particularly good. One transfer -- two at most -- will take you to any part of the city you're likely to visit, and within one hour. At some stations -- such as Ote-machi, Ginza, and Iidabashi -- long underground passageways connect the various lines, and it does take time to get from one to another. Directions, however, are clearly marked.

Less helpful is the system of signs that tell you which of the 15 or 20 exits (exits are often numbered and alphabetized) from a large station will take you to the street level and to your destination; only a few stations have these signs in English. Exit names or numbers have been included in the text where they'll be most useful. You can also try asking the agent when you turn in your ticket; she or he may understand enough of your question to provide you with the exit number and letter (such as A3 or B12).

Subway fares begin at ¥160. Toei trains are generally a bit more expensive than Eidan trains, but both are competitive with JR lines. From Ueno across town to Shibuya, on the old Ginza Line (orange), for example, cost is ¥190; the ride on the JR Yamanote Line runs the same.

The Eidan (but not the Toei) has inaugurated an electronic card of its own, called Metrocard. The denominations are ¥1,000, ¥3,000, and ¥5,000. Automatic card dispensers are installed at some subway stations.

In spite of the introduction of ¥340 initial-fare cabs, Tokyo taxi fares remain among the highest in the world. Most meters start running at ¥660 and, after the first 2 km (1¼ mi), tick away at the rate of ¥80 every 274 meters (about 1/5 mi). Keep in mind that the ¥340 taxis (there are few on the street) are only cheaper for trips of 2 km or less; after that the fare catches up with the ¥660 cabs. The ¥340 taxis have a sticker on the left-rear window.

There are also smaller cabs, called kogata, that charge ¥640 and then ¥80 per 290 meters (1/5 mi). If your cab is caught in traffic -- a likely eventuality -- the meter registers another ¥80 for every 1.4 minutes of immobility. Between 11 PM and 5 AM, a 30% surcharge is added to the fare.

You do get good value for the money, though. Taxis are invariably clean and comfortable. The doors open automatically when you get in and out. Drivers take you where you want to go by the shortest route they know and do not expect a tip. Tokyo cabbies are not, in general, a sociable species (you wouldn't be either if you had to drive for 10-12 hours a day in Tokyo traffic), but you can always count on a minimum standard of courtesy. And if you forget something in the cab -- a camera, a purse -- your chances of getting it back are almost 100%.

Hailing a taxi during the day is seldom a problem. You would have to be in a remote part of town to wait more than five minutes for one to pass by. In Ginza, drivers are allowed to pick up passengers only in designated areas; look for short lines of cabs. Elsewhere, you need only step off the curb and raise your arm. If the cab already has a fare, you'll see a green light on the dashboard, visible through the windshield; if not, the light will be red.

At night, when everyone's been out drinking and wants a ride home, the rules change. Don't be astonished if a cab with a red light doesn't stop for you: the driver may have had a radio call, or he may be heading for an area where a long, profitable fare to the suburbs is more likely. (Or the cab driver may simply not feel like coping with a passenger in a foreign language. Refusing a fare is against the law, but it's done all the time.)

Between 11 PM and 2 AM on Friday and Saturday nights, you'll be lucky to get a cab in any of the major entertainment districts; in Ginza it is almost impossible.

Japan Railways (JR) trains are color-coded, making it easy to identify the different lines. The Yamanote Line (green or silver with green stripes) makes a 35-km (22-mi) loop around the central wards of the city in about an hour. The 29 stops include the major hub stations of Tokyo, Yuraku-cho, Shimbashi, Shinagawa, Shibuya, Shinjuku, and Ueno.

The Chuo Line (orange) runs east to west through the loop from Tokyo to the distant suburb of Takao. During the day, however, these are limited express trains that don't stop at most of the stations inside the loop. For local cross-town service, which also extends east to neighboring Chiba Prefecture, you have to take the Sobu Line (yellow).

The Keihin Tohoku Line (blue) goes north to Omiya in Saitama Prefecture and south to Ofuna in Kanagawa, running parallel to the Yamanote Line between Tabata and Shinagawa. Where they share the loop, the two lines usually use the same platform -- Yamanote trains on one side and Keihin Tohoku trains, headed in the same direction, on the other. This requires a little care. Suppose, for example, you want to take the loop line from Yuraku-cho around to Shibuya, and you board a blue train instead of a green one; four stops later, where the lines branch, you'll find yourself on an unexpected trip to Yokohama.

JR Yamanote Line fares start at ¥130; you can get anywhere on the loop for ¥260 or less. Most stations have a chart in English somewhere above the row of ticket vending machines, so you can check the fare to your destination. If not, you can simply buy the cheapest ticket and pay the difference at the other end. In any case, hold on to your ticket: You'll have to turn it in at the exit.

Tickets are valid only on the day you buy them, but if you plan to use the JR a lot, you can save time and trouble with an Orange Card, available at any station office. The card is electronically coded; at vending machines with orange panels, you insert the card, punch the cost of the ticket, and that amount is automatically deducted. Orange Cards come in ¥1,000 and ¥3,000 denominations.

Shinjuku, Harajuku, and Shibuya are notorious for the long lines that form at ticket dispensers. If you're using a card, make sure you've lined up at a machine with an orange panel; if you're paying cash and have no change, make sure you've lined up at a machine that will change a ¥1,000 note -- not all of them do.

Yamanote and Sobu Line trains begin running about 4:30 AM and stop around 12:30 AM. The last departures are indicated at each station, but only in Japanese. Bear in mind that 7 AM-9:30 AM and 5 PM-7 PM trains are packed to bursting with commuters; avoid the trains at these times, if possible. During these hours smoking is not allowed in JR stations or on platforms.

The standard postal system the Japanese use to indicate addresses in Tokyo begins with the ward -- designated by the suffix -ku (as in Minato-ku) -- followed by the name of the district within the ward, such as Roppongi or Nishi-Azabu. The district is usually divided into numbered subsections, sometimes designated by the suffix -chome; the subsections can be further divided into units of one or more blocks, each with its own building numbers. Apartment blocks will often have a final set of digits on the address to specify an apartment number.

Thus, Taito-ku 1-4-301 Asakusa 3-chome will be recognizable to the mail carrier as "Apartment No. 301 in Building 4 on the first block of Asakusa subsection No. 3 in Taito Ward" -- but don't count on the driver of a taxi from the other side of town to know how to find it. And don't count on the blocks or the building numbers appearing in any rational geographic order, either. The whole system is impossibly complicated, even for the Japanese.

People usually direct each other to some landmark or prominent building in a given neighborhood and muddle on from there. Bear in mind that addresses written in Japanese appear in reverse order, that is, with the postal code, prefecture, and ward first and the name of the person or establishment last; however, Japanese addresses written in English follow Western order, with the name first and the ward, prefecture, and postal code last.

The system that we use throughout this guide follows the Western order: 1-4-301 Asakusa, 3-chome, Taito-ku.