Flights into Toronto land at the Lester B. Pearson International Airport (YYZ) (Airport Rd., PHONE: 416/247-7678), commonly called the Toronto airport, 32 km (20 mi) northwest of downtown.

Flying time to Toronto is 1½ hours from New York and Chicago and 4½ hours from Los Angeles.

Carriers

Toronto is served by American, Delta, Northwest, United, US Airways, and Air Canada, as well as more than a dozen European and Asian carriers with easy connections to many U.S. cities.

Major Airlines

Air Canada (PHONE: 800/776-3000).

American (PHONE: 800/433-7300).

Continental (PHONE: 800/525-0280).

Delta (PHONE: 800/241-4141).

Northwest (PHONE: 800/225-2525).

United (PHONE: 800/241-6522).

US Airways (PHONE: 800/428-4322).

Smaller Airlines

Alaska Airlines (PHONE: 800/426-0333).

Horizon Air (PHONE: 800/547-9308).

From the U.K.

Air Canada (PHONE: 0870/524-7226).

British Airways (PHONE: 0845/722-2111).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Bus

Pacific Western Transportation Service (PHONE: 905/564-6333 automated; 905/564-3232 administration) offers express coach service linking the airport to three subway stops in the southwest and north-central areas of the city. Buses depart several times each hour from 8 AM to 11:30 PM. Fares average $6-$9. The service to and from several downtown hotels operates every 20 minutes from 6:25 AM to at least 10:45 PM daily and costs approximately $13.75.

By Car

Although Pearson International Airport is not far from downtown, the drive can take well over an hour during weekday rush hours. If you rent a car at the airport, ask for a street map of the city. Highway 427 runs south 6 km (4 mi) to the lakeshore. Here you pick up the Queen Elizabeth Way (QEW) east to the Gardiner Expressway, which runs east into the heart of downtown. If you take the QEW west, you'll find yourself swinging around Lake Ontario, toward Hamilton, Niagara-on-the-Lake, and Niagara Falls.

By Taxi

Taxis and limos to a hotel or attraction near the lake can cost $40 or more. Airport cabs have fixed rates to different parts of the city. You must pay the full fare from the airport, but it's often possible to negotiate a lower fare from downtown, where airport cabs compete with regular city cabs. It's illegal for city cabs to pick up passengers at the airport, unless they are called -- a time-consuming process, but sometimes worth the wait. Some airport and downtown hotels offer free shuttle bus service from the airport.

Greyhound Lines (PHONE: 416/367-8747; 800/231-2222 in the U.S.) has regular bus service into Toronto from the United States and Canada. From Detroit the trip takes five hours, from Buffalo two to three hours, and from Chicago and New York City 11 hours.

The Toronto Coach Terminal (610 Bay St., north of Dundas St., PHONE: 416/393-7911) serves a number of lines, including Greyhound, Trentway-Wagar, Trantario Coachlines, Ontario Northland, Penetang-Midland Coach Lines (PMCL), and Can-AR.

The U.S. Interstate Highway System leads directly into Ontario: I-81 and a spur off I-90 from New York to Ontario or I-94, I-96, and I-75 from Michigan to Ontario. These connections hook up with the Trans-Canada Highway within a few miles. There are many smaller highway crossings between the two countries as well.

Detroit-Windsor and Buffalo-Fort Erie crossings can be slow, especially on weekends and holidays. The wide Highway 401 -- reaching up to 16 lanes as it slashes across metropolitan Toronto from the airport on the west almost as far as the zoo on the east -- is the major link between Windsor, Ontario (and Detroit), and Montréal. It's also known as the Macdonald-Cartier Freeway but is generally called simply the 401. There are no tolls, but be warned: weekday rush-hour traffic on 401 can become dreadfully crowded, even stop-and-go.

From Buffalo or Niagara Falls, take the Queen Elizabeth Way (QEW), which curves up along the western shore of Lake Ontario, eventually turns into the Gardiner Expressway, and flows right into the downtown core.

Yonge (pronounced "young") Street, which begins at the lakefront, is called Highway 11 once you get north of Toronto and continues all the way to the Ontario-Minnesota border, at Rainy River. At 1,896 km (1,176 mi), it's the longest street in the world.

Amtrak (PHONE: 800/872-7245) runs a daily train to Toronto from Chicago (a 12-hour trip) and another from New York City (12 hours).

Canada's VIA Rail (PHONE: 416/366-8411) runs trains to most major cities in Canada; travel along the Windsor-Québec City corridor is particularly well-served. Substantial discounts are available on VIA Rail if you book at least five days in advance or if you have an International Student Identity Card.

Amtrak and VIA Rail operate from Union Station (65-75 Front St., between Bay and York Sts.). You can walk underground to many hotels -- a real boon in inclement weather. There's a cab stand outside the main entrance of the station.

Banks & Offices

Most banks in Canada are open Monday through Thursday 10-3 and Friday 10-5 or 6. Some banks are open longer hours and also on Saturday morning. All banks are closed on national holidays. Most banks (and some gas stations) have automatic teller machines (ATMs) that are accessible around the clock.

Gas Stations

Most highway and city gas stations in Canada are open daily (although there's rarely a mechanic on duty Sunday) and some are open around the clock.

Museums & Sights

Hours at museums vary, but most open at 10 or 11 and close in the evening. Some smaller museums close for lunch. Many museums are closed on Monday; some make up for it by staying open late on Wednesday, often waiving admission.

The days when all churches were always open are gone; vandalism, theft, and the drop in general piety have seen to that. But the major churches in big cities are open daily, usually from 9-6.

Shops

Stores, shops, and supermarkets usually are open Monday through Saturday 9-6, although in major cities supermarkets are often open 7:30 AM-9 PM, and some food stores are open around the clock. Blue laws are in effect in much of Canada, but in a growing number of provinces, stores -- even liquor stores -- have limited Sunday hours, usually noon-5; shops in areas highly frequented by tourists are usually open Sunday. Stores often stay open Thursday and Friday evenings, most shopping malls until 9 PM. Drugstores in major cities are often open until 11 PM, and convenience stores tend to be open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Arriving in Canada

American and British visitors may bring in the following items duty-free: 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, and 7 ounces of tobacco; 1 bottle (1.1 liters or 40 imperial ounces) of liquor or wine, or 24 355-ml (12-ounce) bottles or cans of beer for personal consumption. Any alcohol and tobacco products in excess of these amounts is subject to duty, provincial fees, and taxes. You can also bring in gifts up to a total value of C$750.

A deposit is sometimes required for trailers (refunded upon return). Cats and dogs must have a certificate issued by a licensed veterinarian that clearly identifies the animal and certifies that it has been vaccinated against rabies during the preceding 36 months. Seeing-eye dogs are allowed into Canada without restriction. Plant material must be declared and inspected. There may be restrictions on some live plants, bulbs, and seeds. With certain restrictions or prohibitions on some fruits and vegetables, visitors may bring food with them for their own use, providing the quantity is consistent with the duration of the visit.

Additional information is available from Revenue Canada (2265 St. Laurent Blvd. S, Ottawa, ON K1G 4K3, PHONE: 613/993-0534; 800/461-9999 in Canada).

Canada's firearms laws are significantly stricter than those in the United States. All handguns and semiautomatic and fully automatic weapons are prohibited and cannot be brought into the country. Sporting rifles and shotguns may be imported provided they are to be used for sporting, hunting, or competition while in Canada. All firearms must be declared to Canada Customs at the first point of entry. Failure to declare firearms will result in their seizure, and criminal charges may be made. Regulations require visitors to have a confirmed "Firearms Declaration" to bring any guns into Canada; a fee of $50 applies, good for one year.

For more information, contact the Canadian Firearms Centre (PHONE: 800/731-4000).

All embassies are in Ottawa; there are British and U.S. consulates in Toronto.

Australia

Australian High Commission (50 O'Connor St., Suite 710, Ottawa, PHONE: 613/236-0841).

New Zealand

New Zealand High Commission (99 Bank St., Suite 727, Ottawa, PHONE: 613/238-5991).

United Kingdom

British High Commission (80 Elgin St., Ottawa, PHONE: 613/237-1530).

British Consulate General (777 Bay St., at College St., M56 2G2, PHONE: 416/593-1267).

United States

U.S. Embassy (490 Sussex Dr., Ottawa, PHONE: 613/238-5335).

Consulate General of the United States (360 University Ave., north of Queen St., M56 1S4, PHONE: 416/595-1700, www.usembassycanada.gov).

Ambulance, fire, and police (PHONE: 911).

Canadian Automobile Association The Canadian Automobile Association (PHONE: 416/222-5222) has 24-hour road service; membership benefits are extended to U.S. AAA members.

Concierges at hotel desks can recommend doctors.

Hospital Emergency Rooms

St. Michael's Hospital (30 Bond St., PHONE: 416/360-4000).

Toronto General Hospital (200 Elizabeth St., PHONE: 416/598-9135).

Late-Night Pharmacies

Pharma Plus Drugmart (Church St. and Wellesley St. E, PHONE: 416/924-7769) is open daily from 8 AM to midnight.

Some locations of the Shoppers Drug Mart (700 Bay St., PHONE: 416/979-2424. 2500 Hurontario St., Mississauga, PHONE: 905/896-2500) are open 24 hours.

Boat Tours

You can take tours of the Toronto harbor and islands on comfortably equipped Toronto Tours (PHONE: 416/869-1372, www.torontotours.com) boats for about $15. The hourly tour passes the Toronto Islands, with lovely city views. Boats leave from the Pier Six Building next to Queen's Quay Terminal early May-mid-October, daily 10-6. Tours leave as late as 7:15 PM in summer. Other boats depart from the Westin Harbour Castle hotel at the foot of Yonge Street.

Bus Tours

Gray Line Sightseeing Bus Tours (PHONE: 416/594-3310) has tours April through November. The two-hour tours include Eaton Centre, the Old and New City Halls, Queen's Park, the University of Toronto, Yorkville, Ontario Place, and Casa Loma. The fare is $29 and the tour departs every day at 10 AM from the Toronto Coach Terminal.

Gray Line tours start at the Toronto Coach Terminal (610 Bay St., north of Dundas St.).

Olde Town Toronto Tours (PHONE: 416/614-0999, www.oldetowntours.com) has hop-on, hop-off tours on London-style double-decker buses and trolleys. Both take you around the city on a two-hour loop and cost $29; your ticket is good for 24 hours, so you can get on and off. Tours leave every 20 minutes in summer. Call for a winter schedule. The company also has tours to Niagara Falls.

Hiking Tours

The Bruce Trail Association (PHONE: 800/665-4453, www.brucetrail.org) arranges day and overnight hikes around Toronto and its environs.

Walking Tours

Heritage Toronto (PHONE: 416/392-6827 Ext. 265) has free guided walking tours on weekends and occasional holiday Mondays from mid-April to early October. Tours are 1½ to 2 hours and cover one neighborhood or topic, such as the historic theater block.

Canada's two official languages are English and French. Although English is widely spoken, it is useful to learn a few French phrases if you plan to travel toOntario. Canadian French has many distinctive words and expressions, but it's no more different from the language of France than North American English is from the language of Great Britain.

In Canada you can buy stamps at the post office or from vending machines in most hotel lobbies, railway stations, airports, bus terminals, many retail outlets, and some newsstands. If you're sending mail to or within Canada, be sure to include the postal code (six digits and letters). Note that the suite number often appears before the street number in an address, followed by a hyphen.

Following are postal abbreviations for provinces and territories: Alberta, AB; British Columbia, BC; Manitoba, MB; New Brunswick, NB; Newfoundland and Labrador, NF; Northwest Territories and Nunavut, NT; Nova Scotia, NS; Ontario, ON; Prince Edward Island, PE; Québec, QC; Saskatchewan, SK; Yukon, YT.

Postal Rates

Within Canada, postcards and letters up to 30 grams cost 47¢; between 31 grams and 50 grams, the cost is 75¢; and between 51 grams and 100 grams, the cost is 94¢. Letters and postcards to the United States cost 60¢ for up to 30 grams, 85¢ for between 31 and 50 grams, and $1.30 for up to 100 grams. Prices include GST (Goods and Services Tax).

International mail and postcards run $1.05 for up to 20 grams, $1.60 for 21 to 50 grams, and $2.50 for 51 to 100 grams.

Receiving Mail

Visitors may have mail sent to them c/o General Delivery in the town they are visiting, for pickup in person within 15 days, after which it will be returned to the sender.

The following typical prices are for Toronto: a soda (pop), $1.25-$1.75; glass of beer, $3-$6; a sandwich, $3.50-$6; a taxi, as soon as the meter is turned on, $2.50, and $1 for every kilometer (½ mi); movie admission for one, about $8.50.

ATMs

ATMs are available in most bank, trust-company, and credit-union branches across the country, as well as in many convenience stores, malls, and gas stations.

Currency

U.S. dollars are accepted in much of Canada (especially in communities near the border). However, to get the most favorable exchange rate, exchange at least some of your money into Canadian funds at a bank or other financial institution. Traveler's checks (some are available in Canadian dollars) and major U.S. credit cards are accepted in most areas.

The units of currency in Canada are the Canadian dollar (C$) and the cent, in almost the same denominations as U.S. currency ($5, $10, $20, 1¢, 5¢, 10¢, 25¢, etc.). The $1 and $2 bill are no longer used; they have been replaced by $1 and $2 coins (known as a "loonie," because of the loon that appears on the coin, and a "toonie," respectively).

Taxes

A goods and services tax (GST) of 7% applies on virtually every transaction in Canada except for the purchase of basic groceries.

In addition to imposing the GST, Ontario levies a 5% tax on hotel rooms and an 8% sales tax on the purchases of goods and services.

You can get a GST refund on purchases taken out of the country and on short-term accommodations of less than one month, but not on food, drink, tobacco, car or motor-home rentals, or transportation; rebate forms, which must be submitted within 60 days of leaving Canada, may be obtained from certain retailers, duty-free shops, customs officials, or from the Canada Customs and Revenue Agency (Visitor Rebate Program, Summerside Tax Centre, 275 Pope Rd., Suite 104, Summerside, PE C1N 6C6, PHONE: 902/432-5608; 800/668-4748 in Canada, www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca). Instant cash rebates up to a maximum of $500 are provided by some duty-free shops when you leave Canada, and most provinces do not tax goods that are shipped directly by the vendor to the purchaser's home. Always save your original receipts from stores and hotels (not just credit-card receipts), and be sure the name and address of the establishment is shown on the receipt. Original receipts are not returned. To be eligible for a refund, receipts must total at least $200, and each individual receipt must show a minimum purchase of $50.

Tipping

Tips and service charges are not usually added to a bill in Canada. In general, tip 15% of the total bill. This goes for waiters, waitresses, barbers and hairdressers, and taxi drivers. Porters and doormen should get about $2 a bag. For maid service, leave at least $2 per person a day ($3 in luxury hotels).

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Passports

Citizens and legal residents of the United States do not need a passport or a visa to enter Canada, but proof of citizenship (a birth certificate or valid passport) and some form of photo identification will be requested. Naturalized U.S. residents should carry their naturalization certificate. Permanent residents who are not citizens should carry their "green card." U.S. residents entering Canada from a third country must have a valid passport, naturalization certificate, or "green card."

Citizens of the United Kingdom need only a valid passport to enter Canada for stays of up to six months.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0G3, PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

The country code for Canada is 1. The area codes for Toronto are 416 and 647. You do not need to dial the three-digit area code when making a call from within the same code. When calling a number in another area code, dial a 1 followed by the area code and the telephone number. Telephone numbers beginning with 800 or 888 are toll-free numbers that can be dialed without charge from anywhere in the country.

Directory & Operator Information

For operator assistance, dial "0." For directory assistance in Canada, dial the area code followed by 555-1212; dial 1 before the area code if the area code is not the same as the one you are calling from.

International Calls

International calls can be direct-dialed from most phones. If you're dialing Canada from the United States, dial 1 plus the area code and telephone number. If you're dialing the United States from Canada, dial 1 plus the area code and telephone number.

To call Great Britain, Australia, New Zealand, or other countries except the U.S. from Canada, dial 011 followed by the appropriate country code, city code, and number. For operator assistance, dial "0" and ask for the overseas operator. The country codes are 44 for Great Britain, 61 for Australia, and 64 for New Zealand. To dial Canada from these countries, dial 001 followed by the area code and telephone number.

Long-Distance Calls

To dial another province or an area of the same province that has a different area code, dial 1 followed by the area code and number.

Competitive long-distance carriers make calling within the United States and Canada relatively convenient and let you avoid hotel surcharges. By dialing an 800 number, you can get connected to the long-distance company of your choice.

Public Phones

Pay telephones take coins, and charge phones are found in many locations, including airports and shopping malls. These phones can be used to charge a call to a telephone company card, your home, or the party you are calling. Local phone calls cost 25 cents.

Tourist Offices

In Toronto

Tourism Toronto (207 Queen's Quay W, Suite 509, Box 106, M5J 1A7, PHONE: 416/203-2600 or 800/363-1990, www.torontotourism.com) has its office at Queen's Quay Terminal.

Traveller's Aid Society (Union Station, arrivals level and basement level, Room B23, PHONE: 416/366-7788; Pearson Airport, Terminal I, arrivals level, past Customs, near Area B, PHONE: 905/676-2868; Pearson Airport, Terminal 2, between international and domestic arrivals, PHONE: 905/676-2869; Pearson Airport, Terminal 3, arrivals level, near international side, PHONE: 905/612-5890) recommends restaurants and hotels and distributes subway maps and Ontario sales-tax rebate forms.

Ontario Travel (1243 Islington Ave., Suite 200, Toronto, M8X 2Y3, PHONE: 800/668-2746, www.ontariotravel.net).

Canadian Tourism Commission (PHONE: 613/946-1000, www.canadatourism.com).

At Home

Visit Canada Center (62-65 Trafalgar Sq., London, WC2 5DY, PHONE: 0891/715-000; 50p per minute peak rate and 45p per minute cheap rate).

Summer and fall are popular because of the mild weather. However, Toronto receives plenty of visitors for various festivals throughout the year: the International Film Festival in September, the Jazz Festival in June, and the Royal Agricultural Fair in November. In February there are two weekends of Winterfest.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Toronto:

January 18-30°F (-8 to -1°C); February 19-32°F (-7 to 0°C); March 27-40°F (-3 to 4°C); April 38-53°F (3-12°C); May 47-64°F (8-18°C); June 57-76°F (14-24°C); July 62-80°F (17-27°C); August 61-79°F (16-26°C); September 54-71°F (12-22°C); October 45-60°F (7-16°C); November 35-46°F (2-8°C); December 23-34°F (-5 to 1°C).

Holidays

Canadian national holidays are as follows: New Year's Day, Good Friday, Easter Monday, Victoria Day (third Monday in May), Canada Day (July 1), Labour Day (first Monday in September), Thanksgiving (second Monday in October), Remembrance Day (November 11), Christmas, and Boxing Day.

Ontario also celebrates a civic holiday, called Simco Day, on the first Monday in August.

You can call the Toronto Transit Commission (TTC) (PHONE: 416/393-4636 or 416/393-8663) from 7 AM to 11:30 PM for information on how to take public transit to any street or attraction in the city. The TTC publishes a useful Ride Guide that shows nearly every major place of interest and how to reach it by public transit. These guides are available in most subways and many other places around the city.

The fare for buses, streetcars, and trolleys is $2.25 for adults in exact change. Five-fare tickets are available for $8.50, and you can buy tokens at subway stations. The subways stop running at 2 AM, but the TTC has bus service from 1 AM to 5:30 AM on many major streets, including Queen, College, Bloor, Yonge, part of Dufferin, and as far north as Finch and Eglinton. The Day Pass costs $7 and is good for unlimited travel for one person, weekdays after 9:30 AM, and all day Saturday. On Sunday and holidays, it's good for up to six persons (maximum two adults) for unlimited travel. If you plan to stay in Toronto for a month or longer, consider the Metropass, a photo-identity card ($88.50 for adults plus $3.25 extra for the photo), which allows unlimited rides in one calendar month. Tokens, tickets, and passes can be purchased at subway stations and convenience stores.

All buses accept exact change, tickets, or tokens. Paper transfers are free; pick one up from the driver when you pay your fare.

For additional information, contact the Toronto Transit Commission (TTC; PHONE: 416/393-4636, www.ttc.ca).

Much of Toronto is laid out on a grid. Yonge Street is the main north-south artery. Most major cross streets are numbered east and west of Yonge Street. If you're looking for 180 St. Clair Avenue West, you want a building a few blocks west of Yonge Street; 75 Queen Street East is a block or so east of Yonge Street.

Car Rentals

Rates in Toronto begin at $49 a day and $290. If you prefer a manual-transmission car, check whether the rental agency of your choice offers stick shifts; some companies in Canada, such as Avis, don't.

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/522-9696; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-6000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; where it's affiliated with Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 09/256-8690 in New Zealand; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Insurance

Drivers must carry owner registration and proof of insurance coverage, which is compulsory in Canada. The Canadian Non-Resident Inter-Provincial Motor Vehicle Liability Insurance Card, available from any U.S. insurance company, is accepted as evidence of financial responsibility in Canada. The minimum liability coverage in Canada is C$200,000. If you are driving a car that is not registered in your name, carry a letter from the owner that authorizes your use of the vehicle.

More information is available from the Insurance Bureau of Canada (PHONE: 416/362-9528; 800/387-2880 in Canada, www.ibc.ca).

Requirements

In Canada your own driver's license is acceptable. Some provinces have age restrictions on younger drivers. In Ontario, drivers must be 21. Rental-car companies have not set an upper age limit.

Rules of the Road

Pedestrian crosswalks are sprinkled throughout the city; they are marked clearly by yellow overhead signs and very large painted Xs. All a pedestrian has to do is stick out a hand, and cars (you hope!) screech to a halt in both directions. Right turns on red lights, after a complete stop, are nearly always permitted, except where otherwise posted.

By law, you are required to wear seat belts (and to use infant seats). Radar-detection devices are illegal in Ontario, as is their possession in a car, even if the device is not in operation. Speed limits, given in kilometers, are within the 90-110 kph (50-68 mph) range outside the cities.

Riding the city's streetcars is a great way to capture the flavor of the city, because you pass through many neighborhoods. The main streetcar lines running east-west are College, Queen, King, and Dundas, following those streets. The Spadina line runs north-south. All of them, especially the King line, are interesting rides with frequent service.

The Toronto Transit Commission runs one of the safest, cleanest, most reliable systems of its kind anywhere. There are two subway lines, with 60 stations along the way: the Bloor/Danforth line, which crosses Toronto about 5 km (3 mi) north of the lakefront, from east to west, and the Yonge/University line, which loops north and south, like a giant "U," with the bottom of the "U" at Union Station. A light rapid transit (LRT) line extends service to Harbourfront along Queen's Quay. Tokens and tickets are sold in subway stations and at hundreds of convenience stores along the many routes of the TTC. Get your transfers after you pay your fare and enter the subway; you'll find them in machines on your way down to the trains.

The meter begins at $2.50 and includes the first.2 km (1 mi). Each additional.235 km (146 mi) is 25¢ -- as is each passenger in excess of four. The waiting time "while under engagement" is 25¢ for every 33 seconds -- and in a traffic jam, this could add up. Still, it's possible to take a cab across downtown Toronto for $8-$9. The largest companies are:

Beck (PHONE: 416/751-5555).

Co-op (PHONE: 416/504-2667).

Diamond (PHONE: 416/366-6868).

Metro (PHONE: 416/504-8294).

Royal (PHONE: 416/785-3322).

For more information, call the Metro Licensing Commission (PHONE: 416/392-3000).