All international flights arrive at Providenciales International Airport (PLS) (PHONE:649/941-5670). The airport has modern, secure arrival and check-in services.

You use domestic carriers to fly on to airports in Grand Turk and the out islands of North Caicos, Middle Caicos, South Caicos, and Salt Cay. All have paved runways in good condition.

Grand Turk International Airport (GDT) (PHONE:649/946-2233).

For private planes, Provo Air Center (PHONE:649/946-4181; www.provoaircenter.com) is a full service FBO (Fixed Base Operator) offering refueling, maintenance, and short-term storage, as well as on-site customs and immigration clearance, a lounge, and concierge services.

Flying times are 1½ hours from Miami, 5½ hours from New York, and 8 hours from Los Angeles.

Carriers

Air Canada (PHONE:888/247-2262; www.aircanada.ca) flies between Toronto and Provo on Saturdays.

Air Jamaica Express (PHONE:800/523-5585; www.airjamaica.com) travels between Provo and Montego Bay daily except Wednesdays.

American Airlines (PHONE:800/433-7300; 649/946-4948 in Turks and Caicos; www.aa.com) flies three times daily between Miami and Provo, Thursdays through Sundays between New York/JFK and Provo, and on Saturdays between Boston and Provo.

Bahamasair (PHONE:649/946-4999 or 800/222-4262) flies between Nassau and Provo on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays.

Delta (PHONE:800/241-4141; www.delta.com) travels on Saturdays between Atlanta and Provo.

SkyKing (PHONE:649/941-5464) connects Provo with Grand Turk and South Caicos several times daily and also offers flights to Cuba, the Dominican Republic, and Haiti. Additionally, in season there are weekly charter flights from a number of North American cities, including Boston, Chicago, Detroit, New York, Philadelphia, Montréal, and Toronto.

Turks & Caicos Airways (PHONE:649/946-4255), the national flag carrier, offers regularly scheduled flights between Provo, Grand Turk, and the outer Turks and Caicos Islands.

US Airways (PHONE:800/622-1015 or 800/428-4322; www.usairways.com) flies on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays between Charlotte and Provo.

From the U.K.

British Airways (PHONE:649/941-3352; 800/247-9297; 0845/77-333-77 in the U.K.; www.britishairways.com) connects London/Heathrow and Provo on Sundays.

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

You'll find taxis at the airports, and most resorts provide pickup service. A trip between Provo's airport and most major hotels runs about $15. On Grand Turk a trip from the airport to Cockburn Town is about $5; it's $5-$8 to hotels outside town.

Banks

Banks are open Monday-Thursday 9 to 3, Friday 9 to 5.

Post Offices

Post offices are open weekdays from 8 to 4.

Shops

Shops are generally open weekdays from 8 or 8:30 to 5.

Arriving in Turks & Caicos Islands

Although customs inspectors in some countries inspect all baggage to allay their concerns about smuggling or drug running, many islands wave those tourists who have no goods to declare through customs inspections with only a cursory question or two. Exceptions include major hubs within the Caribbean, such as Jamaica, Puerto Rico, and Antigua. If you're yachting through the islands, note that harbor customs are often thorough, as well.

These rules generally apply throughout the Caribbean: you are limited to bringing in 2 liters of alcohol, two cartons of cigarettes, and a reasonable amount of duty-free goods for your personal use. More than that, and you'll be asked to pay a hefty import tax.

Electricity is fairly stable throughout the islands, and the current is suitable for all U.S. appliances (120/240 volts, 60 Hz).

Ambulance and Fire (PHONE:999 or 911).

Police Emergencies (PHONE:649/946-2499 in Grand Turk; 649/946-7116 in North Caicos; 649/946-4259 in Provo; 649/946-3299 in South Caicos).

Hospitals

Associated Medical Practices (Leeward Hwy., Glass Shack, Providenciales, PHONE:649/946-4242).

Grand Turk Hospital (Hospital Rd., Grand Turk, PHONE:649/946-2333).

Pharmacies

Grand Turk Hospital (Grand Turk Hospital, Grand Turk, PHONE:649/946-2040).

Grace Bay Medical Center (Neptune Plaza, Grace Bay, Providenciales, PHONE:649/941-5252).

Scuba Diving Emergencies

Associated Medical Practices (Leeward Hwy., Glass Shack, Providenciales, PHONE:649/946-4242).

The Turks and Caicos Islands are extremely visitor-friendly; the atmosphere is laid-back. Don't be afraid to greet people and smile.

Whether by taxi, boat, or plane, you should try to venture beyond your resort's grounds and beach.

Global Airways (PHONE:649/941-3222) specializes in trips to North Caicos.

If you want to island-hop on your own schedule, air charters are available through Inter-Island Airways (PHONE:649/941-5481; www.interislandairways.com).

J&B Tours (PHONE:649/946-5047; www.jbtours.com) offers sea and land tours, including trips to Middle Caicos, the largest of the islands, for a visit to the caves, or to North Caicos to see flamingos and plantation ruins.

Nell's Taxi (PHONE:649/231-0051) offers taxi tours of the islands, priced between $25 and $30 for the first hour and $25 for each additional hour.

Aerial photo safaris are provided by Provo Air Charter (PHONE:649/941-0685).

The staff at your hotel can recommend a doctor, dentist, clinic, or hospital should a need arise. Sometimes, particularly at family resorts, a nurse is on-site during the day and a doctor is on call. Doctor visits, incidentally, can be costly.

Divers' Alert

Do not fly within 24 hours of scuba diving.

Food and Drink

Traveler's diarrhea, caused by eating contaminated fruit or vegetables or drinking contaminated water, isn't a big problem in the Caribbean, but it does occur. So watch what you eat. Avoid ice, uncooked food, and unpasteurized milk and milk products, and drink only bottled water or water that has been boiled for several minutes, even when brushing your teeth. Mild cases may respond to Imodium (known generically as loperamide) or Pepto-Bismol, both of which can be purchased over the counter. Drink plenty of purified water or tea -- chamomile is a good folk remedy. In severe cases, rehydrate yourself with a salt-sugar solution (½ teaspoon salt and 4 tablespoons sugar per quart of water).

Over-the-Counter Remedies

Island drug stores and supermarkets are well stocked with familiar over-the-counter medicines and other health products that you might need. If you don't see precisely what you want, ask the pharmacist to recommend an appropriate substitute. If you can only use a specific or an uncommon medicine, be sure to bring a sufficient supply with you.

Pests and Other Hazards

The major health risk in the Caribbean is sunburn or sunstroke. Having a long-sleeve shirt, a hat, and long pants or a beach wrap available is essential on a boat, for midday at the beach, and whenever you go out sightseeing. Use sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 -- especially if your complexion is fair -- and apply it liberally on your nose, ears, and other sensitive and exposed areas. Make sure the sunscreen is waterproof if you're engaging in water sports, limit your sun time for the first few days, and drink plenty of liquids, monitoring intake of caffeine and alcohol, which hasten the dehydration process.

Even experienced swimmers should exercise caution in waters on the windward (Atlantic Ocean) side of the islands. The unseen currents, powerful waves, strong undertows, and rocky bottoms can be extremely dangerous -- and lifeguards are rare. Even in the calmest water, watch out for black, spiny sea urchins; stepping on one is guaranteed to be painful for quite some time.

The small lizards native to the islands are harmless (and actually keep down the bug population), and poisonous snakes are hard to find. Beware of the manchineel tree, which grows near the beach and has green applelike fruit that is poisonous and bark and leaves that can burn the skin. The worst insect problem may well be the tiny no-see-ums (sand flies) that appear after a rain, near swampy ground, and around sunset; mosquitoes can also be annoying. Bring along a good repellent.

Shots and Medications

No special shots or vaccinations are required for Caribbean destinations.

The official language of the Turks and Caicos is English. Native islanders (termed "Belongers") are of African descent, though the population -- especially on cosmopolitan Provo -- also consists of Canadian, British, American, European, Haitian, and Dominican expats.

The post office is in downtown Provo at the corner of Airport Road. It costs 50¢ to send a postcard to the United States, 60¢ to Canada and the United Kingdom, and $1.25 to Australia and New Zealand; letters, per ½ ounce, cost 60¢ to the United States, 80¢ to Canada and the United Kingdom, and $1.40 to Australia and New Zealand.

When writing to the Turks and Caicos Islands, be sure to include the specific island and "Turks and Caicos Islands, BWI" (British West Indies).

Collectors will be interested in the wide selection of stamps sold by the Philatelic Bureau (PHONE:649/946-1534).

Delivery service is provided by FedEx (PHONE:649/946-2542 on Grand Turk; 649/946-4682 on Provo), with offices in Provo and Grand Turk.

Barclays Bank, Scotiabank and CIBC have offices on Provo, with branches on Grand Turk. Many larger hotels and the casino can take care of your money requests. Bring small denominations to the less-populated islands.

Barclays Bank (PHONE:649/946-4245).

CIBC (PHONE:649/946-5303).

Scotiabank (PHONE:649/946-4750).

ATMs

There are few ATMs on the islands.

Credit Cards

Major credit cards and traveler's checks are accepted at many establishments.

Currency

The unit of currency is the U.S. dollar.

Taxes

The departure tax is $23, payable only in cash or traveler's checks.

Hotels add 10%-15% to your bill for service, and restaurants and hotels add a 10% government tax.

Tipping

At restaurants, tip 15% if service isn't included in the bill. Taxi drivers also expect a token tip, about 10% of your fare.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Turks & Caicos Islands

U.S. and Canadian citizens need some proof of citizenship, such as a birth certificate (original or certified copy), plus a photo I.D. or a current passport. All other travelers, including those from the United Kingdom, Australia, and New Zealand, require a current passport. Everyone must have an ongoing or return ticket.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE:131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0G3, PHONE:819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE:04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE:0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE:900/225-5674; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html). Calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service.

Although crime is not a major concern in the Turks & Caicos Islands, petty crime does occur here, and you're advised to leave your valuables in the hotel safe-deposit box and lock doors in cars and rooms when unattended.

The area code for the Turks and Caicos is 649. Just dial 1 plus the 10-digit number, including area code, from the U.S. To make local calls, dial the seven-digit number.

All telephone service is provided by Cable & Wireless (PHONE:649/946-2200; 800/744-7777 for long distance; 649/266-6328 for Internet access; 811 for mobile service; www.tcimall.tc).

Many U.S.-based cell phones work on the islands; use your own or rent one from Cable & Wireless. Internet access is available via hotel-room phone connections or Internet kiosks on Provo and Grand Turk. You can also connect to the World Wide Web from any telephone line by dialing C-O-N-N-E-C-T to call Cable & Wireless and using the user name easy and the password access.

International Calls

To make calls from the Turks and Caicos, dial 0, then 1, the area code, and the number. Calls from the islands are expensive, and many hotels add steep surcharges for long-distance. Talk fast.

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

The Turks and Caicos Islands Tourist Board (www.turksandcaicostourism.com) maintains a comprehensive Web site covering each of the islands.

Another excellent source of information is TCISearchTCISearch (www.tcisearch.com), which -- besides all the basics and information about resorts, restaurants, and activities -- includes weather information, maps, a business directory, downloadable postcards, and video clips and a helpful "chat" forum of island-related topics.

Times Publications (www.timespub.tc) publishes a quarterly magazine on all aspects of life in the islands. Subscriptions are available.

Tourist Offices

In Turks & Caicos Islands

Government Tourist Board (Front St., Cockburn Town, Grand Turk, PHONE:649/946-2321).

At Home

Turks and Caicos Islands Tourist Board (2715 E. Oakland Park Blvd., #101, Fort Lauderdale, FL, 33316, PHONE:954/568-6588 or 800/241-0824; www.turksandcaicostourism.com).

Caribbean Tourism Organization (CTO) (80 Broad St., New York, NY, 10004, PHONE:212/635-9530, FAX: 212/635-9511).

The Caribbean high season is traditionally winter -- from December 15 to April 14 -- when northern weather is at its worst. During this season you're guaranteed the most entertainment at resorts and the most people with whom to enjoy it. It's also the most fashionable, the most expensive, and the most popular time to visit -- and most hotels are heavily booked. You must make reservations at least two or three months in advance for the very best places (sometimes a year in advance for the most exclusive spots).

Hotel prices drop 20%-50% after April 15; airfares and cruise prices also fall. Saving money isn't the only reason to visit the Caribbean during the off-season. Temperatures are only a few degrees warmer than at other times of the year, and many islands now schedule their carnivals, music festivals, and other events during the off-season. Late August, September, October, and early November are least crowded.

The Caribbean climate is fairly constant. The average year-round temperatures for the region are 78°F-88°F. The temperature extremes are 65°F low, 95°F high; but, as everyone knows, it's the humidity, not the heat, that makes you suffer, especially when the two go hand in hand.

As part of the late-fall rainy season, hurricanes occasionally sweep through the Caribbean. Check the news daily and keep abreast of brewing tropical storms. The rainy season consists mostly of brief showers interspersed with sunshine. You can watch the clouds thicken, feel the rain, then have brilliant sunshine dry you off, all while remaining on your lounge chair. A spell of overcast days or heavy rainfall is unusual, as everyone will tell you.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Turks and Caicos Islands:

January 62-77°F (17-25°C); February 63-78°F (17-26°C); March 64-80°F (18-27°C); April 66-82°F (19-28°C); May 70-87°F (21-30°C); June 74-90°F (23-31°C); July 75-91°F (24-32°C); August 75-92°F (24-33°C); September 74-89°F (23-31°C); October 72-85°F (22-29°C); November 68-82°F (20-28°C); December 64-79°F (18-26°C).

Holidays

Public holidays are: New Year's Day, Commonwealth Day (second Monday in March), Good Friday, Easter Monday, National Heroes Day (last Monday in May), Queen's Birthday (third Monday in June), Emancipation Day (first Monday in August), National Youth Day (last Monday in September), Columbus Day (second Monday in October), International Human Rights Day (last Monday in October), Christmas Day, and Boxing Day (Dec. 26).

Although scooters and bicycles are available for rental on Provo, the option has dwindled in popularity with the deteriorating condition of the roads and an increase in auto traffic. If you choose to ride a scooter or bicycle, take extra care around steep shoulder drop-offs.

Scooter Bob's (Turtle Cove Marina, Turtle Cove, PHONE:649/946-4684) in Providenciales rents double-seater scooters and bicycles (as well as jeeps, SUVs, vans, and cars). Rates are $40 per day for scooters and $20 per day for bicycles.

Surprisingly, there is no scheduled boat or ferry service between Provo and the other Turks and Caicos Islands. Instead, islanders tend to catch rides leaving from the marina at Leeward-Going-Through.

Car Rentals

Car- and jeep-rental rates average $40-$75 per day, plus a $15-per-rental-agreement government tax. Reserve well ahead of time during the peak winter season. Most agencies offer free mileage and airport pickup service. Tony's Car Rental is the only player on Grand Turk. Several agencies, including Avis, Budget, Provo Rent-a-Car, Rent a Buggy, and Tropical Auto Rentals, operate on Provo.

In Turks & Caicos Islands

Avis (PHONE:649/946-4705).

Budget (PHONE:649/946-4079).

Provo Rent-a-Car (PHONE:649/946-4404; www.provo.net/rentacar).

Rent a Buggy (PHONE:649/946-4158; www.rentabuggy.tc).

Tony's Car Rental (PHONE:649/231-1806).

Tropical Auto Rentals (PHONE:649/946-5300; www.provo.net/TropicalAuto).

At Home

Avis (PHONE:800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE:800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Requirements

You must be at least 21 to rent a car, and rental companies prefer that you be at least 25.

Road Conditions

There are paved, two-lane roads connecting the resort areas, airport, and major settlements on Providenciales. However, they're often pocked with potholes and have steep shoulder drop-offs. A major road rehabilitation project is reportedly in the making. Dusty, rutted side roads are in worse condition. Ironically, the little-traveled roads in Grand Turk and the out islands are, in general, smooth and paved.

Rules of the Road

Driving here is on the left side of the road, British style; when pulling out into traffic, remember to look to your right. The maximum speed is 40 mph, 20 mph through settlements, and limits, as well as the use of seat belts, are enforced.

Cabs (actually large vans) are now metered, and rates are regulated by the government at $2 per person per mile traveled.

In Provo call the Provo Taxi and Bus Group (PHONE:649/946-5481) for more information.

Many resorts and car-rental agencies offer complimentary airport transfers. Ask ahead of time.