The paper tablecloths and cozy, laid-back ambience are all part of this small restaurant's charm. The menu varies according to what's fresh that day; imaginative combinations of ingredients in the primi -- herring and sweet peppers, broccoli and giant shrimp (with pumpkin gnocchi), salmon and radicchio -- are the norm. A meal here followed by after-dinner drinks at Campo Santa Margherita, a five-minute walk away, makes for a lovely evening. The kitchen closes early on weekdays.