This small and charming osteria changes its menu according to the day's bounty -- mostly local seafood caught just hours before. Cesare Benelli and his American wife, Diane, insist on the freshest ingredients and claim not to use butter or animal fats. Try the zuppa di pesce (fish broth) or the fritto misto di verdura (mixed vegetable fry), followed by the fish of the day either grilled, baked, or steamed. Diane will help you choose among her homemade desserts and the extensive wine selection. At lunch, only a prix-fixe menu (EUR31, with several options) is served.