Peggy Guggenheim used to take leading artists of her day -- including Jackson Pollock and Mark Rothko -- to this archetypal Venetian inn not far from her Palazzo Venier dei Leoni. The walls are still covered with modern art, but it's far from the haute bohemian hangout it used to be, except for when the Biennale crowd takes over. Outside, you can dine under an elongated arbor and enjoy such specialties as rigatoni ai quattro formaggi (with four cheeses), spaghetti Adriatica (with fish sauce), and antipasto Montin (seafood antipasto).