Confronted with chateaubriand, bouillabaisse, and fegato alla veneziana, you might think you've wandered into a temple of French haute cuisine. Continue reading the very extensive menu to discover some of the best Venetian specialties in town, such as tagliarini (delicate narrow fettuccine-shape pasta) with crab and fillet of local sea bass with toasted pine nuts, fried leek, and basil. The front room of this old favorite -- long admired for its fine wine list and cordial, gracious service -- is like the dining saloon of an old Venetian sailing ship. The pretty garden courtyard is open from May to September. Reservations essential.