What happens when a hotel porter and a trade union leader open up a bacaro near the Arsenal? They choose an old tavern, where the poor once brought food from their unheated homes in order to drink a glass of wine and share the warmth of a roaring stove, and leave the decor as is. The menu, written in Venetian dialect, is strictly focused on fish, and only the freshest ingredients are used. Cicheti, served as starters, come by the dozen, but save room for primi like spaghetti neri alle capesante e zucchine (cuttlefish-ink pasta with scallops and zucchini) and secondi such as squid stuffed with radicchio di Treviso. The house dessert is a warm zabaglione with cookies. Reservations essential.