This neat, old-style osteria 10 minutes from Piazzale Santa Maria Elisabetta has a soft spot for meat and innards (one of the owners was a bechèr, or butcher). Lunch is the only meal served, but it stays open from 8 to 8 for ombre and cicheti. Descriptions of tasty snacks from century-old recipes are left out, as they might put off nonnatives. More recognizable options include be baccalà alla vicentina (stewed with onion, milk, and Parmesan); pasta with seafood; and several seasonal risottos. As a secondo, fish can be cooked any way you want. Don't be suspicious of the surprisingly low prices: you are far enough away from San Marco's bells. (vaporetto Line 1, 6, 14, 51/52, or 82, Lido stop).