At this bacaro, located on a calle where bacari have thrived for centuries, the emphasis is more on food than on wine. Regulars swear by the gelatinous nervetti (veal knee cartilage) served with beans and spienza (beef spleen), but you might take their word for it and turn your attention to the deep-fried crab claws, folpetti, or hard-boiled eggs with pickles and anchovies. A big pot of risotto is made once or twice a day and served on the spot.