Known commonly as La Vedova (the Widow), this warm osteria not far from the Ca' d'Oro was opened as a low-key bacaro by the owner's great-grandparents. The high quality of the food is due to the energetic Widow -- the owner's mother -- whose presence is still felt even though she's long gone. A rough Venetian floor, old marble counter, and long tables invite conviviality. Cicheti include tender seppie roste (grilled cuttlefish), polpette (meatballs), and baccalà mantecato. The house winter pasta is the pastisso de radicio rosso (lasagna with sausage, radicchio, and béchamel sauce). In the spring, the chef switches to pastisso de asparagi (with asparagus).