A beautiful 19th-century osteria opposite the squero (gondola repair shop) of San Trovaso, this bacaro has original furnishings and one of the best wine cellars in town. No cicheti are offered here, but you won't regret trying one of the huge panini (sandwiches) filled with first-rate cheeses and cured pork. It also serves warm crostini (toasted bread) topped with tasty spreads like tuna and onion or egg and mushrooms. Closed Sun. after 2 PM and 2 in wks Aug.