Aeroporto Marco Polo (VCE) (Tessera, about 10 km [6 mi] north of the city on the mainland, PHONE: 041/2609260, www.veniceairport.it) is served by domestic and international flights, including connections from London, Amsterdam, New York, Brussels, Frankfurt, Munich, Paris, Vienna, and Zurich.

Flying time is 8½ hours from New York, 10-11 hours from Chicago, 11½ hours from Los Angeles. It's 2½ hours from London to Venice, 23½ hours from Sydney to Rome.

Carriers

Air Canada (PHONE: 888/247-2262 in the U.S. and Canada; 08705/247-226 in the U.K.; 06/6557117 in Rome; 800/919091 elsewhere in Italy, www.aircanada.com).

Air New Zealand (www.airnz.com).

Alitalia (PHONE: 800/223-5730 in the U.S.; 0870/544-8259 in the U.K.; 61/292-44-2222 in Australia; 06/65641 in Rome; 848/865641 elsewhere in Italy, www.alitalia.it).

American Airlines (PHONE: 800/433-7300 in U.S.; 02/679141 in Milan, www.aa.com).

British Airways (PHONE: 800/AIRWAYS in the U.S. and Canada; 0845/77-333-77 in the U.K.; 02/8904-8800 in Australia; 09/356-8690 in New Zealand; 199/712266 toll-free in Italy, www.britishairways.com).

Continental Airlines (PHONE: 800/231-0856 in U.S.; 02/69633256 in Milan; 800/296230 elsewhere in Italy, www.flycontinental.com).

Delta Air Lines (PHONE: 800/241-4141 in U.S.; 800/864114 in Italy, www.deltaairlines.com).

Northwest Airlines (PHONE: 800/225-2525 in the U.S. and Canada; 08705/074-074 in the U.K.; 1300/303-744 in Australia; 02/218981 in Italy, www.nwa.com).

Malaysia Air (PHONE: 888/359-8655 in the U.S.; 618/453-2113 in Canada; the U.K.; Australia; and New Zealand, www.malaysiaair.com).

Qantas, PHONE: 06/52482725 in Rome, www.qantas.com).

Thai Airlines (www.thaiair.com).

United Airlines (PHONE: 800/241-6522 in the U.S.; 02/69633707 in Milan, www.ual.com).

US Airways (PHONE: 800/428-4322 in the U.S.; 848/813177 in Italy, www.usairways.com).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Boat

Taking a boat may be the best way to get to Venice from the airport. The most direct way is by the Alilaguna (PHONE: 041/5235775) launch, with regularly scheduled service until midnight; it takes about an hour to get to the landing (just off Piazza San Marco), stopping at the Lido on the way, and the fare is EUR9.81 per person, including bags.

A water taxi -- a sleek, modern motorboat known as a motoscafo -- from the airport costs about EUR78 for two people (more for larger groups), but it is always essential to agree on a fare before boarding. Contact Motoscafo (PHONE: 041/5415084 airport transfers) for details.

Avoid private boats -- they are a rip-off.

By Bus

Blue ATVO (PHONE: 041/929500) shuttle buses make the 25-minute nonstop trip from the airport to Piazzale Roma; from here you can get a vaporetto to the landing nearest your hotel. The ATVO fare is EUR2.58. Tickets are available on the bus when the airport ticket booth is closed.

The local ACTV (PHONE: 041/5287886) bus (Line 5) runs from the airport to Piazzale Roma every 30 minutes (every hour after 11:10 PM); you need a ticket (EUR0.77) before boarding, which can be purchased at the airport tobacconist-newsstand, open daily 6:30 AM-9 PM, or from designated ATVO/ACTV booths. Luggage can be a hassle on the bus, which is usually crowded with local commuters.

By Taxi

A yellow taxi from the airport to Piazzale Roma costs about EUR28. Information is available from Yellow Taxi (PHONE: 041/5237774).

Buses connect the Bus Terminal (Piazzale Roma, across the Grand Canal from the train station, Santa Croce) to Mestre, the Brenta Riviera, Padua, Treviso, Cortina d'Ampezzo, and other destinations in the region.

ACTV (PHONE: 041/5287886) buses to Mestre (EUR0.75) are frequent, and there's night service; ACTV buses to Padua stop along the Brenta Riviera (two departures per hour, EUR1.55).

ATVO (PHONE: 041/5205530) buses to Cortina (EUR10.20) operate weekends only September-May with one departure at 7:50 AM from Venice, and one departure at 3:15 PM from Cortina; from June 22 to September 1, and from December 22 to January 6 these departures are daily.

Venice is on the east-west A4 autostrada, which connects with Padua, Verona, Brescia, Milan, and Turin. If you bring a car to Venice, you will have to pay for a garage or parking space.

Warning: do not be waylaid by illegal touts, often wearing fake uniforms, who may try to flag you down and offer to arrange parking and hotels; their activities have become a scandal in a city generally free of con men and criminals. Ignore them and continue on until you reach the automated ticket machines. Do not leave valuables in the car. There's a luggage-check office, open daily 9 AM-9 PM, next to the Pullman Bar on the ground floor of the municipal garage at Piazzale Roma.

You can take your car to the Lido; the car ferry (Line 17) makes the half-hour trip about every 50 minutes from a landing at Tronchetto, but in summer there can be long lines. It costs EUR8.78-18.08, depending on the size of the car. Line 82 runs from Tronchetto to Piazzale Roma and Piazza San Marco and also goes on to the Lido in summer. (When there's thick fog or extreme tides, a bus runs to Piazzale Roma instead.) Avoid private boats -- they are a rip-off.

Parking

Parking at Autorimessa Comunale (Piazzale Roma, end of S11 road, Santa Croce, PHONE: 041/2727301) costs EUR18.60 for 24 hours.

The private Garage San Marco (Piazzale Roma 467/f, end of S11 road, Santa Croce, PHONE: 041/5232213) costs EUR19 for up to 12 hours, and EUR26 for 12-24 hours (EUR1 supplement if you collect your car between 10 PM and 6 AM). Only Garage San Marco accepts reservations for stays of more than two nights.

To reach the privately run Tronchetto (PHONE: 041/5207555) parking area, follow the signs to turn right before Piazzale Roma. Parking costs EUR18 for every 24 hours.

The Venetian Hoteliers Association, known locally as the AVA, has arranged a discount of 20% per day for hotel guests who use the Garage San Marco or the Tronchetto facility. Ask for a stamped voucher upon checking into your hotel and present it at the parking area when you pay.

Venice has rail connections with every major city in Italy and Europe. Some trains do not terminate at Stazione Ferroviaria Santa Lucia. Instead, they stop only at the Stazione Ferroviaria Venezia-Mestre, which is then 10 minutes by train to Venice. All trains traveling to and from Santa Lucia stop at Mestre; to get from Venezia-Mestre to Santa Lucia, take the first available train, remembering there is a supplemento (extra charge) for traveling on Intercity and Eurocity and Eurostar trains. Remember too that if you do not purchase your ticket at the station booth and validate it in the machine on the platform before boarding, you are liable for a hefty fine.

Train information is available from:

Stazione Ferroviaria Santa Lucia (on the Grand Canal in the northwest corner of the city, Cannaregio, PHONE: 848/888088; Trenitalia train info, www.trenitalia.com).

Stazione Ferroviaria Venezia-Mestre (Mestre, 12 km [7 mi] north of Venice, PHONE: 848/888088; Trenitalia train info, www.trenitalia.com).

Banks & Offices

Banks are open weekdays 8:30 to 1:30 and 2:45 to 3:45. Venice's main post office, known as Fondaco dei Tedeschi, is open Monday to Saturday 8:15 to 7 for stamps and registered mail, until 6 for other operations.

Gas Stations

Gas stations are generally open Monday through Saturday from 7 to 7 with a break at lunch. Many stations have automated self-service pumps that accept bills (some also take credit cards). Gas stations on autostrade are open 24 hours.

Museums & Sights

In Venice, the group of 14 noteworthy churches belonging to the Chorus Association are open Monday through Saturday 10 to 5 and Sunday 1 to 5 (with minor variations for the churches of the Frari and of San Sebastiano). Other churches usually open early in the morning until noon or 12:30, when they close for three to four hours or more; they open again in the afternoon, closing about 7 PM or later. The Basilica di San Marco is open Monday to Saturday 9:45 to 4:30 and Sunday 1 to 4:30 from November to April, until 5:30 the rest of the year. Note that sightseeing in churches during religious services is discouraged. Services usually begin at 7 AM, noon, and 6:30 PM.

Museum hours vary and change with the seasons. Venice's major museums (Museo Correr, Palazzo Ducale, and the Gallerie dell'Accademia) are open daily, but try to avoid visiting during crowded weekends. Other museums are closed one day a week: always check ahead.

Pharmacies

Pharmacies are open weekdays 9 to 12:30 and 4 to 7:30 and Saturday 9 to 12:30. The names and addresses of pharmacies open 24 hours and during holidays are always posted on the door of each pharmacy; they are also published in the local newspaper Gazzettino and in the monthly Venezia News.

Shops

Most shops are open from 9:30 to 1 and from 3:30 or 4 to 7 or 7:30. In Venice, most clothing and tourist-oriented shops are open all day, Sunday included. Food shops stay open 8 to 1 and 5 to 7:30 and are closed Sunday and Wednesday afternoon (except for butchers, who are open only in the morning) and for part of August. Bars and pastry shops usually close one day a week. Barbers and hairdressers, with some exceptions, are closed Sunday and Monday.

Arriving in Italy

Of goods obtained anywhere outside the EU, the allowances are (1) 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos (under 3 grams) or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco; (2) 2 liters of still table wine or 1 liter of spirits over 22% volume; and (3) 50 milliliters of perfume and 250 milliliters of toilet water.

Of goods obtained (duty and tax paid) within another EU country, the allowances are (1) 800 cigarettes or 400 cigarillos (under 3 grams) or 200 cigars or 1 kilogram of tobacco; (2) 90 liters of still table wine or 10 liters of spirits over 22% volume or 20 liters of spirits under 22% volume or 110 liters of beer.

There is no quarantine period in Italy, so if you want to travel with Fido or Tiger, it's possible. Contact your nearest Italian consulate to find out what paperwork is needed for entry into Italy; generally, it is a certificate noting that the animal is healthy and up-do-date on its vaccinations. Keep in mind, however, that the United States has some stringent laws about reentry: pets must be free of all disease, especially those communicable to humans, and they must be vaccinated against rabies at least 30 days before returning. This means that if you are in Italy for a short-term stay, you must find a veterinarian or have your pet vaccinated before departure. (This law does not apply to puppies less than three months old.) Pets should arrive at the point of entry with a statement, in English, attesting to this fact.

Additional information is available from:

Ministero delle Finanze, Direzione Centrale dei Servizi Doganali, Divisione I (Via Carucci 71, 00143 Rome, Italy, PHONE: 06/50242117).

Dogana Sezione Viaggiatori (Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci, Fiumicino 00054 Rome, PHONE: 06/65954343).

The electrical current in Italy is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take Continental-type plugs, with two or three round prongs.

There is no U.S. or Canadian consular service in Venice.

Australia

Australian Consulate (Via Borgogna 2, Milan, PHONE: 02/777041).

Canada

Canadian Embassy (Via G.B. de Rossi 27, Rome, PHONE: 06/445981).

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy (Via Zara 28, Rome, PHONE: 06/4417171).

United Kingdom

British Embassy (Via XX Settembre 80A, Rome, PHONE: 06/42200001).

British Consulate (Campo della Carità, Dorsoduro 1051, Dorsoduro, Venice, PHONE: 041/5227207).

United States

U.S. Embassy (Via Veneto 121, Rome, PHONE: 06/46741).

No matter where you are in Italy, dial 113 for all emergencies, or find somebody (your concierge, a passerby) who will call for you, as not all 113 operators speak English. Dialing 118 will summon an ambulance.

Italy has a national police force (carabinieri) as well as local police (polizia). Both are armed and have the power to arrest and investigate crimes. Always report the loss of your passport to either the carabinieri or the police, as well as to your embassy. Local traffic officers are known as vigili (though their official name is polizia municipale) -- they are responsible for, among other things, giving out parking tickets and clamping cars, so before you even consider parking the Italian way, make sure you are at least able to spot their white (in summer) or black uniforms (many are women). Should you find yourself involved in a minor car accident in town, you should contact the vigili. A country-wide toll-free number is used to call the Carabinieri (PHONE: 112) in case of emergency.

The U.K. Consulate can recommend doctors and dentists. Your hotel or any pharmacy should also be able to offer advice.

Hospital Emergency Rooms

Venice Hospital First Aid (PHONE: 041/5230000).

24-Hour Pharmacies

The nearest pharmacy is never far, and they take turns staying open at night, on Saturday afternoon, and on Sunday; the weekly list of after-hours pharmacies is posted on the front of every pharmacy.

Italy is a country teeming with churches, and many of them contain significant works of art. Because they are places of worship, care should be taken with appropriate dress. Shorts, spaghetti straps, sleeveless garments: these are taboo in many other churches throughout Italy. So, too, are short shorts anywhere. When touring churches -- especially in the summer when it's hot and no sleeves are desirable -- it's wise to carry a sweater, or scarf, to wrap around your shoulders before entering the church. Do not enter a church with food, and do not drink from your water bottle while inside. Do not go in if a service is in progress. And if you have a cellular phone, turn your phone off before entering.

Italians who are friends greet each other with a kiss, usually first on the right cheek, and then on the left. Very good friends then kiss again on the right -- but that's somewhat rare.

Business Etiquette

Showing up on time for business appointments is the norm and expected in Italy. There are more business lunches than business dinners, and even business lunches aren't common, as Italians view mealtimes as periods of pleasure and relaxation. Business cards are used throughout Italy, and business suits are the norm for both men and women.

Every province in Italy has licensed tour guides who are allowed by Italian law to take groups and individuals to selected sites. Some of them are eminently qualified in relevant fields such as history and art history; others have simply managed to pass the test. Inquire at any tourist office for a licensed, English-speaking guide. When you speak to the guide, ask about his or her qualifications and specialties. Also check to make sure that the guide's English is understandable. The rates are fixed; find out what they are before hiring the guide. It is illegal for the guide to charge you more than the fixed fee. Tipping is appreciated but not obligatory.

Boat Tours

The Cooperativa San Marco (Campo San Luca, San Marco 4179, PHONE: 041/2406736) organizes tours of the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello. April through November, the 3½-hour tours depart daily at 9:30 and 2:30 (November-March daily at 2) from the landing stage in front of the Giardini Reali, just off Piazza San Marco; they cost about EUR15.50. (Tickets can be bought from the Alilaguna kiosk.) Tours tend to be annoyingly commercial and emphasize glass-factory showrooms where you will be pressured to buy items at higher prices than normal.

American Express (Salizada San Moisè, San Marco 1471, PHONE: 041/5200844, FAX: 041/5229937) offers group gondola rides with serenades from May through September nightly at 7:30 and 8:30, in April and October at 7:30 only, and from November through March daily at 3:30 (EUR31).

Private Guides

Cooperativa Guide Turistiche Autorizzate (San Marco 750, near San Zulian, PHONE: 041/5209038, FAX: 041/5210762, guideve@tin.it) has a list of more than a hundred licensed guides. Tours lasting about two hours with an English-speaking guide start at EUR113 for up to 30 people. Agree on a total price before you begin, as there are some hidden extras. Guides are of variable quality.

Tours of the Surrounding Region

American Express (Salizada San Moisè, San Marco 1471, San Marco, PHONE: 041/5200844, FAX: 041/5229937) offers several worthwhile excursions:

A day trip to Padua goes by boat along the Brenta River, with stops at three Palladian villas, and a return to Venice by bus. The tours run three times a week (Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday) from March to October and cost EUR62 per person (EUR86 with lunch); bookings need to be made a few days in advance.

The Palladio Villa Tour (by minibus, maximum eight people), besides a visit to the Palladian villas, includes a walking tour of Vicenza (Wednesday only; EUR108 per person, optional lunch EUR13).

The interesting Hills of the Veneto tour (by minibus, maximum eight people) focuses on the little-known, picturesque hill towns of Marostica, Bassano del Grappa, and Asolo, with stops at Villa Barbaro at Maser and at a vineyard along the Strada del Prosecco for a Prosecco wine tasting (Tuesday, Thursday, and weekends; EUR104 per person, optional lunch EUR13).

For a break from the heat, consider the Dolomite Tour (by minibus, maximum eight people) through the stupendous scenery in the Dolomite mountains; stops include Titian's birthplace Pieve di Cadore, the Santa Caterina and Misurina lakes, the famous Cime di Lavaredo peaks, and Cortina d'Ampezzo (Monday and Friday, EUR113 per person, including a packed lunch). For these last three tours it is essential to make reservations at least a week in advance in high season.

Walking Tours

Two-hour walking tours of the San Marco area can be booked through American Express (Salizada San Moisè, San Marco 1471, San Marco, PHONE: 041/5200844, FAX: 041/5229937). Its daily "Jewels of the Venetian Republic" tour (EUR24) ends with a glassblowing demonstration. (In winter, there's no tour on Sunday.)

From April to October, American Express also offers an afternoon walking tour, "Magic and Enchantment of Venetian Life," which ends with a gondola ride (EUR29).

The highly regarded Venicescapes (Campo San Provolo, Castello 4954, 041/5206361, www.venicescapes.org) group is an Italo-American cultural association that offers a choice of six themed itineraries. Tours are all private and groups are small (generally up to six or eight people). Reservations are necessary (book on-line or by fax at least a couple of months ahead). Prices start at US$250 for a group of four. Tours last from three to seven hours.

Walks Inside Venice (041/5241706 or 041/5202434, www.walksinsidevenice.com) also does several themed tours for small groups starting at EUR57 per hour and lasting up to three hours.

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) in Atlanta caution that most of Southern Europe is in the "intermediate" range for risk of contracting traveler's diarrhea. Part of this risk may be attributed to an increased consumption of olive oil and wine, which can have a laxative effect on stomachs used to a different diet. The CDC also advises all international travelers to swim only in chlorinated swimming pools, unless they are absolutely certain the local beaches and freshwater lakes are not contaminated.

As of this writing, there has been one reported case of mad cow disease in a human in Italy. The Italian desire for beef has not abated, and it is eaten with gusto. However, many restaurants and butchers are widening their repertoire of meat dishes. In some places, traditional dishes such as osso buco (braised veal shank), oxtail, and offal specialties have disappeared from restaurants and grocery stores. Vitello (veal), vitellone (young beef), and manzo (beef) are considered safe to eat by both the Italian government and the European Union (these are cuts that don't come in touch with spinal marrow).

Over-the-Counter Remedies

It's always best to travel with your own tried and true medicines. The regulations regarding what medicines require a prescription are not likely to be exactly the same in Italy and in your home country -- all the more reason to bring what you need with you. Aspirin (l'aspirina) can be purchased at any pharmacy, but Tylenol and Advil are unavailable.

Pests & Other Hazards

Mosquitoes are a problem in Venice. In many hotel rooms you'll find the fornelletto antizanzare, an electrical device that uses mosquito-repellent tablets. Insert a fresh tablet in the metal slot and plug the fornelletto in the wall (ideally in the vicinity of an open window): it should warm up after one minute. Leave at least one window open while the fornelletto is on and wash your hands carefully after touching tablets. One tablet is good for one night.

In Venice, language is not a big problem. You can always find someone who speaks at least a little English. Remember that the Italian language is pronounced exactly as it is written. (Many Italians try to speak English the same way, enunciating every syllable, with disconcerting results.) You may run into a language barrier in the countryside, but a phrase book and close attention to the Italians' astonishing use of pantomime and expressive gestures will go a long way. Try to master a few phrases for daily use, and familiarize yourself with the terms you'll need to decipher signs and museum labels.

More than just a dialect, locally spoken veneziano is a real language with a rich history. All the official documents of the Republic, all commercial transactions, and even many diplomatic missions to foreign states were written or conducted in the Venetian language. Today you'll hear veneziano being spoken everywhere in Venice -- on the streets, in shops, hospitals, even in the city hall. Restaurant menus are often written in Venetian, Italian, and English. Bacaro menus are written only in Venetian. The Italian word ciao meaning both "hi" and "see you" derives from the old Venetian greeting sciavo (literally "slave," pronounced without the "v").

The Italian mail system is notoriously slow. Allow up to 15 days for mail to and from the United States, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand. It takes about a week to and from the United Kingdom and within Italy. Posta Prioritaria (for Italy and abroad) and Postacelere (for Italy only) are special-delivery services from the post office that guarantee delivery within 24 hours in Italy and four to eight days abroad.

Venice's main post office (Fondaco dei Tedeschi, near Rialto Bridge on Salizzada Fontego dei Tedeschi, (PHONE: 041/5289257; 160 countrywide postal information is open Monday-Saturday 8-6).

Overnight Services

Overnight mail is generally available in all major cities and at resort hotels. Pickups are daily, excluding Saturday and Sunday. Service is reliable; a Federal Express letter to the United States costs about EUR15, to the United Kingdom, EUR17, and to Australia and New Zealand EUR19. Overnight delivery usually means 24-36 hours.

For more information, contact:

DHL (PHONE: 199-199-345; 24 hrs a day).

Federal Express (PHONE: 800/123800; weekdays 8-7).

SDA (PHONE: 800/016027; weekdays 8:30-7:30; Sat. 8:30-1:30).

Many Internet points now offer overnight mail services as well at reasonable rates using major overnight carriers; if your hotel can't help you out, try an Internet point.

Postal Rates

Airmail letters and postcards (lightweight stationery) to the United States and Canada cost EUR0.67 for the first 20 grams; for heavier stationery you should go to the post office. Always stick the blue airmail tag on your mail, or write "Airmail" in big, clear characters to the side of the address. Postcards and letters (for the first 20 grams) to the United Kingdom, as well as to any other EU country, including Italy, cost EUR0.41.

You can buy stamps at tobacconists and post offices.

Informazioni Poste Italiane (PHONE: 160; EUR0.31 for information in Italian about rates and local post offices' opening hours; toll-free 800/009966 for information about Postacelere, www.poste.it) can supply more information.

Receiving Mail

Correspondence can be addressed to you in care of the Italian post office. Letters should be addressed to your name, "c/o Ufficio Postale Centrale," followed by "Fermo Posta" on the next line, and the name of the city (preceded by its postal code) on the next. You can collect it at the central post office by showing your passport or photo-bearing I.D. and paying a small fee. American Express also has a general-delivery service. There's no charge for cardholders, holders of American Express Traveler's checks, or anyone who booked a vacation with American Express.

Shipping Parcels

You can ship parcels via air or surface. Air takes about two weeks, and surface anywhere up to three months. If you have purchased antiques, ceramics, or other objects, inquire to see if the vendor will do the shipping for you; in most cases, this is a possibility.

Venice is considered the most expensive city in Italy. Italy's prices are in line with those in the rest of Europe, with costs in its main cities comparable to those in other major capitals, such as Paris and London. The days when the country's high-quality attractions came with a comparatively low Mediterranean price tag are gone. With the cost of labor and social benefits rising and an economy weighed down by the public debt, Italy is therefore not a bargain, but there is an effort to hold the line on hotel and restaurant prices that had become inordinately high by U.S. standards. Depending on season and occupancy, you may be able to obtain unadvertised lower rates in hotels; always inquire.

In Venice, admission to Palazzo Ducale is EUR9.50, but the same ticket includes entrance to seven other museums, including Museo Correr. Admission to the Gallerie dell'Accademia is EUR6.50 (free for children under 12). A vaporetto ride costs EUR3.10, a 50-minute gondola ride about EUR62. An English-language newspaper is EUR1.50. An inexpensive hotel room for two, including breakfast, is about EUR125 in low season, nearly twice as much in the spring and fall months and during Carnevale. An inexpensive restaurant dinner is EUR30.00, with a simple pasta dish on the menu running about EUR8.00 and ½ liter carafe of house wine EUR3.00. A bacaro (wine bar) lunch is EUR15.00, including a glass of good wine. A Coca-Cola (standing) at a caffè is EUR1.90, a cup of coffee EUR0.80, and a pint of beer from a pub or pizzeria (at the table) EUR4.80.

ATMs

Fairly common in cities and towns as well as in airports and train stations, ATMs are the easiest way to get euros in Italy. Don't, however, count on finding ATMs in tinier towns and rural areas. Italian ATMs are reliable, and are commonly attached to a bank -- you won't find one, for example, in a supermarket. Do check with your bank to confirm you have an international PIN number, to find out your maximum daily withdrawal allowance, and to learn what the bank fee is for withdrawing money. The word for ATM in Italian is bancomat, for PIN, codice segreto.

Currency

January 1, 2002, saw the introduction of euro coins and notes. The former local currency, the lire, ceased to be legal tender in mid-February, 2002. All transactions are now made in euros.

Euro notes come in denominations of EUR500, EUR200, EUR100, EUR50, EUR20, EUR10 and EUR5. The euro is divided into 100 cents, and coins are available as EUR2 and EUR1 and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 cents. The euro can be used in 11 other European countries: Austria, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Portugal, and Spain.

Taxes

Hotels

The service charge and the 9% IVA, or VAT tax, are included in the rate except in five-star deluxe hotels, where the IVA (12% on luxury hotels) may be a separate item added to the bill upon departure.

Restaurants

There is no tax added to restaurant bills. You will, however, sometimes find a service charge of approximately 15% added to your check; in some cases the menu may say that the service charge is already included in the menu prices.

Value-Added Tax

Value-added tax (IVA, or VAT) is 20% on clothing, wine, and luxury goods. On consumer goods, it's already included in the amount shown on the price tag, whereas on services it may not be.

Tipping

In restaurants a service charge of about 10% sometimes appears as a separate item on your check. Some restaurants say on the menu that cover and service charge are included. Either way, it's customary to leave an additional 5%-10% tip for the waiter, depending on the service. Tip checkroom attendants EUR0.50 per person and rest-room attendants EUR0.25 (more in expensive hotels and restaurants). Tip EUR0.05 for whatever you drink standing up at a coffee bar, EUR0.25 or more for table service in cafés. At a hotel bar, tip EUR0.50 and up for a round or two of cocktails.

Italians rarely tip taxi drivers, which is not to say that you shouldn't. A euro or two, depending on the length of the journey, is appreciated -- particularly if the driver helps with luggage. Railway and airport porters charge a fixed rate per bag. Tip an additional EUR0.25 per person, and more if the porter is helpful. Give a barber EUR1-EUR1.50 and a hairdresser's assistant EUR1.50-EUR4.15 for a shampoo or cut, depending on the type of establishment.

On sightseeing tours, tip guides about EUR1 per person for a half-day group tour, more if they are very good. In monasteries and other sights where admission is free, a contribution (EUR0.25-EUR0.50) is expected. Service station attendants are tipped only for special services, for example, EUR0.50 for checking your tires.

In hotels, give the portiere (concierge) about 15% of his bill for services, or EUR2.50-EUR5 if he has been generally helpful. For two people in a double room, leave the chambermaid about EUR0.75 per day, or about EUR4.50-EUR5 a week, in a moderately priced hotel; tip a minimum of EUR0.50 for valet or room service. Double amounts in an expensive hotel. In expensive hotels, tip doormen EUR0.50 for calling a cab and EUR1 for carrying bags to the check-in desk, bellhops EUR1.50-EUR2.50 for carrying your bags to the room, and EUR1.50-EUR2.50 for room service.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Italy

Citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, and the United States need only a valid passport to enter Italy for stays of up to 90 days. Citizens of the United Kingdom need only a valid passport to enter Italy for an unlimited stay.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0G3, PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Public rest rooms are rather rare in Italy; the locals seem to make do with well-timed pit stops and rely on the local bar. Although private businesses can refuse to make their toilets available to the passing public, some bars will allow you to use the rest room if you ask politely. Alternatively, it is not uncommon to pay for a little something -- a few cents for a mineral water or coffee -- to get access to the facilities. Standards of cleanliness and comfort vary greatly. In Venice, restaurants and hotels have the cleanest rest rooms. Pubs and bars rank among the worst. In general, it's in your interest to carry tissues with you. There are bathrooms in all airports and train stations (in major train stations you'll also find well-kept pay toilets for EUR0.25-0.50) and in most museums. There are also bathrooms at highway rest stops and gas stations: a small tip to the cleaning person is always appreciated. There are no bathrooms in churches, post offices, public beaches, or subway stations. In Venice, pay toilets are well posted and strategically located (on Strada Nova, near the Ponte delle Guglie; at the feet of the Accademia Bridge, on the vaporetto stop side of the Grand Canal; and next to the tourist information office at the Giardinetti Reali, close to Piazza San Marco); the cost is EUR0.50.

The best way to protect yourself against purse snatchers and pickpockets is to wear a concealed money belt or a pouch on a string around your neck. Don't wear an exterior money belt or a waist pack, both of which peg you as a tourist. If you carry a bag or camera, be absolutely sure it has straps; you should sling it across your body bandolier-style, adjusting the height to hip level or higher. Always be astutely aware of pickpockets, especially when in city buses and subways, when making your way through train corridors, and in busy piazzas.

A word of caution: "gypsy" children are rife in major cities, and are adept pickpockets. One tactic is to approach a tourist and proffer a piece of cardboard with writing on it. While you attempt to read the message on it, the children's hands are busy under it, trying to make off with purses or valuables. If you see such a group, avoid them -- they are quick and know more tricks than you do.

If traveling via rental car, it's not a bad idea when making stops at autogrills along the highway to have someone remain near the car, as such cars are easily recognizable to professional thieves.

Purse-snatching is not uncommon, and thieves operate on motorini (mopeds) as well as on foot.

If you carry a purse or wallet, store only enough money there to cover casual spending. Distribute the rest of your cash and any valuables (including credit cards and your passport) between a deep front pocket, an inside jacket or vest pocket, and a hidden money pouch. Do not reach for the money pouch while in public.

Local Scams

Do not be waylaid by illegal touts, often wearing fake uniforms, who may try to flag you down and offer to arrange parking and hotels; their activities have become a scandal in a city generally free of con men and criminals. Ignore them and continue on until you reach the automated ticket machines. Do not leave valuables in the car.

Women in Italy

The difficulties encountered by women traveling alone in Italy are often overstated. Younger women have to put up with much male attention, but it is rarely dangerous. Ignoring whistling and questions is the best way to get rid of unwanted attention.

To the dismay of many clean-air-loving travelers, Italians are unrepentant smokers. In 2002, laws were enacted banning smoking in many public places, including bars and restaurants. Compliance has been somewhat arbitrary. If you ask someone to smoke elsewhere or not to smoke in no-smoking areas, don't expect them to respond or respect your request. Your best bet for finding as smoke-free an environment as possible is to stick to large establishments and, weather permitting, to eat outside. If you're a smoker, do check to see if there's a "Vietato Fumare" (No Smoking) sign before lighting up. All FS trains have no-smoking cars: always specify when you make reservations.

The country code for Italy is 39. The area code for Venice is 041. For example, a call from New York City to Venice would be dialed as 011 + 39 + 041 + phone number.

Cell Phones

In Italy you may hear the ring of a cell phone at almost any time and in almost any place. Most Italians are addicted to their telefonini ("small phones") and leave them on in restaurants, bars, cafés, museums, trains, and buses. There are three major companies selling many different kinds of rates and special deals: Tim, Omnitel, and Wind. You can easily find out about their offers in any cell phone store. In summer 2001, all cell phone prefissi dropped the zero. For example, from New York to a cell phone number in Italy, dial 011 + 338 (instead of 0338) + personal phone number; in Italy, dial 338 + personal number. If you receive a call on an Italian cell phone, you won't be charged for it like you would be in the U.S.

Directory & Operator Information

For general information in English, dial 176. To place international telephone calls via operator-assisted service, dial 170 or long-distance access numbers.

International Calls

When dialing an Italian number from abroad, do not drop the initial 0 from the local area code (as was formerly the procedure).

The country code is 1 for the United States and Canada, 61 for Australia, 64 for New Zealand, and 44 for the United Kingdom.

Since hotels tend to overcharge for long-distance and international calls, it's best to make such calls from public phones, using telephone cards.

You can make collect calls from any phone by dialing 172-1011, which will get you an English-speaking operator. Rates to the United States are lowest on Sunday around the clock and 10 PM-8 AM (Italian time) on weekdays and Saturday.

From major Italian cities, you can place a direct call to the United States by reversing the charges or using your phone credit card number. When calling from pay telephones, insert a coin, which will be returned upon completion of your call. You automatically reach an operator in the country of destination and thereby avoid all language difficulties.

Long-Distance Calls

For all calls within Italy -- local and long distance -- you must dial the regional area code (prefisso), which begins with a 0, such as 041 for Venice. Rates are different at various times during the day; it's cheaper to call within Italy during nonworking hours (before 9 AM and after 7 or 8 PM, and it's cheaper to dial internationally at these times.

Access codes:

AT&T Direct (PHONE: 172-1011).

MCI WorldPhone (PHONE: 172-1022).

Sprint International Access (PHONE: 172-1877).

Public Phones

Some pay phones accept only coins, others only carte telefoniche, so it's smart to have both ready. If you are calling from a public phone, you must deposit a coin or use a calling card to get a dial tone.

Prepaid carte telefoniche (calling cards) are prevalent throughout Italy and more convenient than coins. You buy the card (values vary -- EUR2.58, EUR5.16, and so on) at post offices, tobacconists, most news stalls, and bars. Tear off the corner of the card and insert it in the slot. When you dial, its value appears in the window. After you hang up, the card is returned so you can use it until its value runs out. The phone card called Time Europa is a good value, allowing you to call Europe and the United States at only EUR0.28 per minute during peak hours.

Tourist Offices

In Venice

Venice Tourist Offices (PHONE: 041/5298727 or 041/5298769, www.turismovenezia.it; Santa Lucia train station, Cannaregio, PHONE: 041/5298727, daily 8 AM-8 PM; San Marco 71/f, near the Museo Correr, daily 9-6; Venice Pavilion next to the ex Giardini Reali, San Marco, daily 9-6; Venice Pavilion inside the Garage Comunale at Piazzale Roma, Santa Croce, daily 9-6; Gran Viale S. Maria Elisabetta 6/a, Lido, daily 9-6).

Alternatively you can call the Hello Venezia (PHONE: 899/909090 in Italy; 0039/0412714747 from abroad, www.velaspa.com). Call Center, operated by the Vela association, daily 8 AM-8 PM.

For those ages 14-29, the "Rolling Venice" youth card (EUR2.58 and valid until the end of the calendar year it is purchased in) includes handy guidebooks to the city and offers discounts for ACTV vaporetto passes and a few museums, as well as some hotels, restaurants, and shops. It's available from all the Vela information points at the principal vaporetto stops, and from:

Assessorato alla Gioventù (Corte Contarina, San Marco 1529, behind Piazza San Marco post office, PHONE: 041/2747651), open weekdays 9:30-1, Tuesday and Thursday 9:30-1 and 3-5.

Arte e Storia travel agency (Corte Canal, Santa Croce 659, PHONE: 041/5240232), open weekdays 9-12:45 and 3-6:15.

Associazione Italiana Alberghi per la Gioventù (Calle Castelforte, San Polo 3101, near San Rocco, PHONE: 041/5204414), open Monday-Saturday 8-2.

You must show your passport or an ID card to qualify.

Visitors of all ages may want to look into the Venice Card (PHONE: 899/909090 in Italy; 0039/0412714747 from abroad, www.venicecard.it), which can be ordered on-line or by phone and picked up upon arrival. For a fixed rate (that varies depending on whether you stay one, three, or seven days), you can get into the city's municipal museums (avoiding any lines) and use any of its water-ferries or municipal toilets.

At Home

Italian Government Tourist Board (ENIT; 630 5th Ave., Suite 1565, New York, NY 10111, PHONE: 212/245-4822, FAX: 212/586-9249; 401 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611, PHONE: 312/644-0996, FAX: 312/644-3019; 12400 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 550, Los Angeles, CA 90025, PHONE: 310/820-1898, FAX: 310/820-6357; 175 Bloor St. East, Suite 907, South Tower, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3R8, PHONE: 416/925-4882, FAX: 416/925-4799; 1 Princes St., London W1R 8AY, PHONE: 020/7408-1254, FAX: 020/7493-6695, www.italiantourism.com).

The main tourist season in Venice runs from April to October and during Carnevale. For serious sightseers the best months are from fall to early spring. The so-called low season is cooler and inevitably rainier, but it has its rewards: less time waiting on lines; and close, unhurried views of what you want to see; and substantial hotel discounts.

Weather-wise, the best months for sightseeing are March, April, May, June, September, and October -- generally pleasant and not too hot. The hottest months are July and August, when the south wind called scirocco brings about sticky days in Venice. Brief afternoon thunderstorms are common (and welcome) in the whole Veneto region. Venetian winters are relatively mild but always include foggy days, some rainy spells, and the risk of acqua alta (high water, when portions of the city are flooded). Inland towns are generally colder in winter and hotter in summer than Venice, but they are less humid.

If you can avoid it, don't travel at all in Italy in August, when much of the population is on the move, especially around Ferragosto, the August 15 national holiday, when many restaurants and shops are closed.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Venice:

January 33-42°F (1-6°C); February 35-46°F (2-8°C); March 41-53°F (5-12°C); April 49-62°F (10-17°C); May 56-70°F (13-21°C); June 63-76°F (17-25°C); July 66-81°F (19-27°C); August 65-80°F (19-27°C); September 61-75°F (16-24°C); October 53-65°F (12-19°C); November 44-53°F (7-12°C); December 37-46°F (3-8°C).

Holidays

National holidays include January 1 (New Year's Day); January 6 (Epiphany); April 20 and April 21 (Easter Sun. and Mon.); April 25 (Liberation Day); May 1 (Labor Day or May Day); June 2 (Festival of the Republic), August 15 (Assumption of Mary, better known as Ferragosto); November 1 (All Saints' Day); December 8 (Immaculate Conception); December 25 and 26 (Christmas Day and Boxing Day).

The feast days of patron saints are observed locally. Many businesses and shops may be closed in Venice on November 21 (Madonna della Salute).

Getting around Venice presents some unusual problems: the layout is complex; the waterborne transportation can be bewildering; the house-numbering system is baffling; many street names in the sestieri (six districts) of San Marco, Cannaregio, Castello, Dorsoduro, Santa Croce, and San Polo are duplicated; and often you must walk, whether you want to or not. It's essential to have a good map showing all street names and vaporetto routes; buy one at a newsstand. Signs are posted on many corners pointing you in the right direction for the nearest major landmark -- San Marco, Rialto, Accademia, etc. -- but don't count on finding such signs once you're deep into residential neighborhoods.

In Venice, addresses are made up of the name of one of the city's six neighborhoods and a number. The hitch is that the numbers don't go in any sequential order, so San Marco 3672 and 3673 might well be several narrow winding streets away from one another.

By Gondola

If you simply can't leave Venice without a gondola ride, the best time is in the late afternoon or early evening, when the Grand Canal isn't so heavily trafficked. Try to avoid low tide, when the foul odors of the canals are at their worst. It's best to start from the Campo Santa Maria del Giglio or Campo San Moisè stations (there are 11 in total), and always make clear that you want to see the smaller canals, which aren't so crowded as the Grand Canal. Make sure you come to terms on the cost and duration of the ride before you start. Gondoliers are supposed to charge a fixed minimum of about EUR62 for up to six passengers for 50 minutes. From 8 PM to 8 AM the rate increases to approximately EUR77.50. Bargaining may get you a better price.

By Motoscafo

These stylish powerboat water taxis are extremely expensive, and the fare system is as complex as Venice's layout. Plan on spending at least EUR41 for a short trip in town. Always agree on the fare before starting out, and beware of additional fees for such things as handling luggage, keeping the taxi waiting, and late or early hours. More information is available from Motoscafo (PHONE: 041/5222303).

By Traghetto

Few tourists know about the two-man gondolas that ferry people across the Grand Canal at various fixed points. They are the cheapest and shortest gondola ride in Venice and can save a lot of walking. The fare is EUR0.41, which you hand to the gondolier when you get on. Look for "Traghetto" signs.

By Vaporetto

ACTV water buses run their regular routes daily 6 AM-9 PM and also have more limited night service. They cover the length of the Grand Canal and circle the city. There are several lines, some of which connect Venice with the islands of the lagoon. Landing stages are clearly marked with name and line number, but check before boarding to make sure the boat is going in your direction.

Routes include:

Line 1, the Grand Canal local, calling at every stop, and continuing via San Marco to the Lido. The trip takes about 35 minutes from the station to Vallaresso, San Marco.

Line 41 and Line 42, which follow long loop routes in opposite directions: take Line 41 from San Zaccaria to Murano, but Line 42 from Murano to San Zaccaria; Line 42 from San Zaccaria to the Redentore, but Line 41 from the Redentore back to San Zaccaria.

Line 51, which runs from the railway station to San Zaccaria via Piazzale Roma and Zattere and continues to the Lido.

Line 52, following the Line 51 route but in the opposite direction, so from the Lido it makes stops at the Giardini, San Zaccaria, Zattere, Piazzale Roma, the train station, Fondamente Nove (where boats leave for the islands of the northern lagoon), San Pietro di Castello, and back to the Lido.

Line 82, running in a loop from San Zaccaria to Giudecca, Zattere, Piazzale Roma, the train station, Rialto (with fewer stops along the Grand Canal than Line 1), and back to San Zaccaria, and out to the Lido in the summer.

Line N, which runs from roughly midnight to 6 AM, stopping at the Lido, Vallaresso (San Marco), Accademia, Rialto, the train station, Piazzale Roma, Giudecca, and San Zaccaria, then returning in the opposite direction.

The one-way fare for the ACTV (PHONE: 041/5287886, www.actv.it) water bus is EUR3.10 on all lines (return EUR5.15). A 24-hour tourist ticket costs EUR9.30, a three-day ticket EUR18.08, and a seven-day ticket EUR31; these are especially worthwhile if you are planning to visit the islands. Groups of three to five people traveling together are eligible for reduced fares (ask for the biglietto famiglia).

With the traghetto ticket you can go from one stop to the next for only EUR1.55 (return EUR2.58); note that this also includes the San Zaccaria-San Giorgio and Lido-Sant'Elena routes. You can also buy a blocchetto (book of 10 tickets) for EUR25.82; don't throw away used tickets, as the blocchetto must always be shown whole to the controller. Free timetables are available at the main ticket office at Piazzale Roma and at most ACTV/Vela ticket booths.

Timetables are also posted at every landing stage, and there is a ticket booth at each stop. When ticket booths have closed, ask the controller on board for a ticket. (It's useful to buy tickets in advance so as to avoid the hassle of getting one on board.) Be sure to validate tickets in the time-stamp machines before boarding, or have the controller validate it if you buy your ticket on board.