If you're not outdoors in the idyllic courtyard, the setting could be described as cool postmodern: the main room has a warmer patina but is relatively unadorned, letting you concentrate instead on the attractively set tables and excellent cuisine (which offers occasional surprises such as medallions of mountain ram). Traditional dishes like roast pork are transformed with such touches as a light mustard sauce, lamb with a trace of rosemary, with offerings dependent on season and availability of fresh ingredients. The real bargain here is the daily EUR5.80 lunch special.