Vienna International Airport (VIE) (PHONE: 01/7007-0 for flight information) is in Schwechat, about 19 km (12 mi) southeast of the city.

Austrian Airlines and Lauda Air fly into Schwechat nonstop from various points in North America. Austrian Airlines also has many routes connecting Vienna with other European cities, including Paris, London, and Munich.

Many major American air carriers -- such as American, Northwest, and United -- do not service Vienna directly; they fly passengers to major European hubs, such as London, Amsterdam, or Frankfurt, for transfers to other airlines. (United Airlines, for example, is currently in partnership with Austrian Airlines.)

On the other hand, many international carriers flying from North America do service Vienna after stopovers at major European airports. For instance, Lufthansa flies from the U.S. to Frankfurt, Düsseldorf, and Munich, then can offer you connections to Vienna. British Airways (which has 15 gateways from the U.S. alone) offers many direct flights to Vienna from London's Heathrow and Gatwick airports.

Approximate flying times are 2 hours from London, 9 hours from New York, 11 hours from Chicago, and 14 hours from Los Angeles.

Carriers

Major Airlines

Austrian Airlines (PHONE: 800/843-0002).

British Airways (PHONE: 020/8897-4000; 0345/222-111 outside London).

Lauda Air (PHONE: 800/951-2645).

Lufthansa (PHONE: 800/645-3880).

From the U.K.

Austrian Airlines (PHONE: 020/7434-7300).

British Airways (PHONE: 020/8897-4000; 0345/222-111 outside London).

Lauda Air (PHONE: 020/7630-5924).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Bus

Buses leave the airport frequently for the city air terminal (Am Stadtpark, PHONE: 01/5800-33369 or 01/2300), by the Hilton.

Buses also run every hour (every half hour on weekends and holidays Apr.-Sept.) from the airport to the Westbahnhof (West Train Station) and the Südbahnhof (South Train Station). Be sure you get on the right bus! The one-way fare for all buses is EUR5.10.

By Car

Take the A4 heading northwest. Follow the signs marked "Zentrum" to reach the city center.

By Taxi

A taxi from the airport to downtown Vienna costs about EUR25-EUR37; agree on a price in advance. Cabs (legally) do not meter this drive, as airport fares are more or less fixed (legally again) at about double what the metered fare would be.

The cheapest cab service to the airport is C+K Airport Service (PHONE: 01/1731, FAX: 01/689-6969), charging a set price of EUR19.62, plus usually a EUR2 tip.

C+K will also meet your plane at no extra charge if you let them know your flight information in advance.

By Train

The least expensive way into town is the S7 train, called the Schnellbahn, which shuttles every half hour between the airport and the Landstrasse/Wien-Mitte (city center) and Wien-Nord (north Vienna) stations.

The fare is EUR2.76 and it takes about 35 minutes. Follow the picture signs of a train to the basement of the airport. Your ticket is also good for an immediate transfer to your destination within the city on the streetcar, bus, or U-Bahn.

If you arrive in Vienna via the Danube, the Blue Danube Steamship Company/DDSG will leave you at Praterlände near Mexikoplatz (Friedrichstr. 7, PHONE: 01/588-800). The Praterlände stop is a two-block walk from the Vorgartenstrasse U1/subway station, or you can take a taxi directly into town.

International long-distance bus service (Bratislava, Brno) and most postal and railroad buses arrive at the Wien Mitte central bus station (Landstrasser Hauptstr. 1b, PHONE: 01/711-07-3850 or 01/711-01), across from the Hilton Hotel on the Stadtpark.

Vienna is 300 km (187 mi) east of Salzburg, 200 km (125 mi) north of Graz. Main routes leading into the city are the A1 Westautobahn from Germany, Salzburg, and Linz and the A2 Südautobahn from Graz and points south.

On highways from points south or west or from the airport, "Zentrum" signs clearly mark the route to the center of Vienna. From there, however, finding your way to your hotel can be no mean trick, for traffic planners have installed a devious scheme prohibiting through traffic in the city core (the First District) and scooting cars out again via a network of exasperating one-way streets.

Trains from Germany, Switzerland, and western Austria arrive at the Westbahnhof (West Station), on Europaplatz, where Mariahilferstrasse crosses the Gürtel.

If you're coming from Italy or Hungary, you'll generally arrive at the Südbahnhof (South Station, Wiedner Gürtel 1).

The current stations for trains to and from Prague and Warsaw are Wien Nord (North Station, Praterstern) and Franz-Josef Bahnhof (Julius-Tandler-Pl.).

Central train information has details and taped schedule information in German (PHONE: 01/1717; 01/1552 for trains to and from the west; 01/1553 for trains to and from the south).

Banks & Offices

Banks are generally open weekdays 8-3, Thursday until 5:30 PM. Lunch hour is from 12:30 to 1:30. All banks are closed on Saturday, but you can change money at various locations (such as American Express offices on Saturday morning and major railroad stations around the clock), and changing machines are also found here and there in Vienna.

Gas Stations

Gas stations on the major autobahns are open 24 hours a day, but in smaller towns and villages you can expect them to close early in the evening and on Sundays. You can usually count on at least one station to stay open on Sundays and holidays in most medium-size towns, and it's never a problem to get gas in larger cities.

Museums & Sights

Some museums are closed on Monday; few are open at night.

Pharmacies

Pharmacies (called Apotheken in German) are usually open from 9 to 6, with a noontime break between 12 and 2. In each area of the city one pharmacy stays open 24 hours; if a pharmacy is closed, a sign on the door will tell you the address of the nearest one that is open. Call 01/1550 for names and addresses (in German) of the pharmacies open that night.

Shops

In general, you'll find shops open weekdays from 8:30 or 9 until 6.

Many food stores, bakeries, and small grocery shops open at 7 or 7:30 and, aside from the noontime break, stay open until 7 or 7:30 PM.

On Saturday, most shops stay open until 5 or 6 PM, though a few follow the old rules and close by 1 PM.

Food stores stay open until 5 on Saturdays.

Barbers and hairdressers traditionally take Monday off, but there are exceptions. Fashionable these days is for hairdressers to work evenings and nights on certain "good-for-haircutting" moon days!

Arriving in Austria

Travelers over 17 who are residents of European countries -- regardless of citizenship -- may bring in duty-free 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco, 2 liters of wine and 2 liters of 22% spirits or 1 liter of over 22% spirits, and 50 milliliters of perfume. These limits may be liberalized or eliminated under terms of the European Union agreement. Travelers from all other countries (such as those coming directly from the United States or Canada) may bring in twice these amounts. All visitors may bring gifts or other purchases valued at up to EUR167 (about $190), although in practice you'll seldom be asked.

The electrical current in Austria is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take continental-type plugs, with two round prongs.

To use U.S.-purchased electric-powered equipment, you'll need a voltage converter and an adapter plug. If your appliances are dual-voltage, you'll need only an adapter. (Most laptops operate equally well on 110 and 220 volts and so require only an adapter.) Don't use 110-volt outlets, marked "For Shavers Only," for high-wattage appliances such as blow-dryers.

Australia

Embassy of Australia (Mattiellistrasse 2-3, Vienna, PHONE: 5128-580).

Canada

Embassy of Canada (Laurenzerberg 2, on the 3rd floor of Hauptpost building complex, Vienna, PHONE: 531-38-01).

New Zealand

Mission of New Zealand (Mattiellistrasse 2-4, Vienna,PHONE: 505-3021).

United Kingdom

Embassy of United Kingdom (Jauresgasse 10, Vienna, PHONE: 01/71613-5151).

United States

Embassy of the U.S. (Boltzmanng. 16, A-1090, Vienna, PHONE: 313-39).

Consulate of the U.S./Passport Division (Gartenbaupromenade 2-4, A-1010, Vienna, PHONE: 313-39).

On the street, the German phrases that may be needed in an emergency are: Zur Hilfe! (Help!), Notfall (emergency), Rettungswagen (ambulance), Feuerwehrmänner (firemen), Polizeiwache (police station), Arzt (doctor), and Krankenhaus (hospital).

If you need a doctor and speak no German, ask your hotel, or in an emergency, phone your consulate.

Police (PHONE: 133).

Fire (PHONE: 122).

Ambulance (PHONE: 144).

Late-Night Pharmacies

In each area of the city one pharmacy stays open 24 hours; if a pharmacy is closed, a sign on the door will tell you the address of the nearest one that is open. Call 01/1550 for names and addresses (in German) of the pharmacies open that night.

The most common form of greeting in Austria is Grüss Gott, which literally means "God greets you."

When it comes to table manners, note that Austrians eat hamburgers, french fries, and pizza -- and even sometimes ribs -- with a knife and fork. Corn on the cob is seldom found on restaurant menus; it's regarded as animal feed.

It's proper to bring flowers to your hostess if you're invited to someone's home for dinner, but never red roses (which are reserved for lovers).

Note that if you bring wine to your hostess, it's considered a gift and is usually not served.

Austrians are comfortable with nudity, and public and hotel saunas are used by both sexes; in such facilities, people are seldom clothed (though this is an option).

Business Etiquette

Punctuality is a virtue in Austria. Austrians are very courteous and rather formal in business situations. Business luncheons and dinners are generally paid for by the person who arranges the meeting.

Excursions

The same three bus tour operators offering orientation tours (see below) offer short trips outside of the city. Compare packages and prices to be sure you get what you want. Your hotel will have brochures.

Orientation Tours

When you're pressed for time, a good way to see the highlights of Vienna is via a sightseeing bus tour, which gives you a light once-over of the heart of the city and allows a closer look at the Schönbrunn and Belvedere palaces. You can cover almost the same territory on your own by taking either Streetcar 1 or 2 around the Ring and then walking through the heart of the city.

For tours, contact one of the following:

Cityrama Sightseeing (Börseg. 1, PHONE: 01/534-13-12, FAX: 01/534-13-16).

CityTouring Vienna (Penzingerstr. 46, PHONE: 01/894-1417-0, FAX: 01/894-3239).

Vienna Sightseeing Tours (Stelzhammerg. 4/11, PHONE: 01/712-4683-0, FAX: 01/714-1141).

Vienna Sightseeing Tours and CityTouring Vienna run 1 ¼-hour "get acquainted" tours daily. Both have tours of about three hours (EUR29), including brief visits to the Schönbrunn and Belvedere palace grounds.

If you want to see the Schönbrunn interior, you'll have to pay a separate entrance fee, with some operators offering a 30-minute or one-hour stop, or in some cases leaving you to find your way back to the center of town yourself. All three firms offer a number of other tours as well (your hotel will have detailed programs) and provide hotel pickup for most tours.

For a wide range of interesting guided tours, including informative walks through the old Jewish Quarter and a Third Man tour from the classic film starring Orson Welles, contact Vienna Walks and Talks (Wiethestr. 69/1, A-1220, PHONE: 01/774-8901, FAX: 01/774-8933).

Streetcar Tours

From early May through September, a 1929 vintage streetcar leaves each Saturday at 11:30 AM and 2 PM and Sunday, Monday, and holidays at 9:30 and 11:30 AM and 2 PM from the Otto Wagner Pavilion at Karlsplatz for a guided tour. For EUR15 (EUR130 if you have the Vienna-Card), you'll go around the Ring, out past the big Ferris wheel in the Prater and past Schönbrunn and Belvedere palaces in the course of the two-hour trip.

These trips are popular, so get tickets in advance at the transport-information office underground at Karlsplatz, weekdays 7 AM-6 PM, weekends and holidays 8:30-4 (PHONE: 01/7909-44026).

Personal Guides

Guided walking tours (in English) are a great way to see the city highlights. Tour topics range from "Unknown Underground Vienna" to "1,000 Years of Jewish Tradition" and "Vienna Around Sigmund Freud." Tours take about 1 ½ hours, are held in any weather provided at least three people turn up, and cost EUR11-EUR15, plus any entry fees. No reservations are needed.

Get a list of the guided-tour possibilities at the city information office (Kärntnerstr. 38). Ask for the monthly brochure "Walks in Vienna," which details the tours, days, times, and starting points. You can also arrange to have your own privately guided tour for EUR100 for a half day.

Self-Guided Tours

Get a copy of "Vienna Downtown Walking Tours" by Henriette Mandl from any bookshop. The six tours take you through the highlights of central Vienna with excellent commentary and some entertaining anecdotes that most of your Viennese acquaintances won't know. The booklet "Vienna from A-Z" (in English, EUR5.10; available at bookshops and city information offices) explains the numbered plaques attached to all major buildings.

English-speaking doctors are readily available, and health care in Austria is usually excellent.

Over-the-Counter Remedies

You must buy over-the-counter remedies in an Apotheke, and most personnel speak enough English to understand what you need.You may find over-the-counter remedies for headaches and colds much less effective than those sold in the U.S. Austrians are firm believers in natural remedies, such as herbal teas. Vitamins are generally scoffed at, and though available, are very expensive.

Shots & Medications

If you will be cycling or hiking through the eastern or southeastern parts of the country, get inoculated against encephalitis; it can be carried by ticks. No special shots are required before visiting Austria.

German is the official national language in Austria. In larger cities and in most resort areas, you will usually have no problem finding people who speak English; hotel staffs in particular speak it reasonably well, and many young Austrians speak it at least passably.

However, travelers do report that they often find themselves in stores, restaurants, and railway and bus stations where it's hard to find someone who speaks English -- so it's best to have some native phrases up your sleeve.

Note that all public announcements on trams, subways, and buses are in German. Train announcements usually are given in English as well, but if you have any questions, try to get answers before boarding.

Post offices are scattered throughout every district in Vienna and are recognizable by a square yellow sign that says "Post." They are usually open weekdays from 9-12 and 2-6, Saturday 8-10 AM.

The main post office near Schwedenplatz (Fleischmarkt 19, A-1010 Vienna), is open 24 hours daily.

Federal Express, DHL, and UPS service Vienna and Austria; check with the hotel concierge for the nearest address and telephone number.

Receiving Mail

When you don't know where you'll be staying, the American Express Office (Kärntnerstr. 21-23, A-1015 Vienna, PHONE: 01/515-40-0) in Vienna will hold your mail for you -- there's no charge to anyone either holding an American Express credit card or carrying American Express traveler's checks.

You can also have mail held at any Austrian post office; letters should be marked Poste Restante or Postlagernd. You will be asked for identification when you collect mail. In Vienna, if not addressed to a specific district post office, this service is handled through the main post office (Fleischmarkt 19, A-1010 Vienna, PHONE: 01/515-09-0).

Sending Mail

Within Europe, all mail goes by air, so there's no supplement on letters or postcards. A letter of up to 20 grams (about ¾ ounce) takes EUR.50, a postcard EUR.43. To the United States or Canada, a letter of up to 20 grams takes EUR.95 for airmail. If in doubt, mail your letters from a post office and have the weight checked.

The Austrian post office also adheres strictly to a size standard; if your letter or card is outside the norm, you'll have to pay a surcharge. Postcards via airmail to the United States or Canada need EUR.95. Always place an airmail sticker on your letters or cards. Shipping packages from Austria to destinations outside the country is extremely expensive.

ATMs

Fairly common throughout Austria, ATMs are one of the easiest ways to get schillings. Although ATM transaction fees may be higher abroad than at home, banks usually offer excellent, wholesale exchange rates through ATMs. Cirrus and Plus locations are easily found throughout large city centers, and even in small towns. If you have questions about Cirrus or Plus service, contact them before you go.

Cirrus (PHONE: 800/424-7787).

Plus (PHONE: 800/843-7587).

If you have any trouble finding one, ask your hotel concierge. Note, too, that you may have better luck with ATMs if you're using a credit card or debit card that is also a Visa or MasterCard, rather than just your bank card.

To get cash at ATMs in Austria, your Pin must be four digits long. Note, too, that you may be charged by your bank for using ATMs overseas; inquire at your bank about charges.

Currency

January 1, 2002, saw the introduction of euro coins and notes. The former local currency, the schilling, ceased to be legal tender at the end of February, 2002. All transactions are now made in euros.

Euro notes come in denominations of EUR500, EUR200, EUR100, EUR50, EUR20, EUR10 and EUR5. The euro is divided into 100 cents, and coins are available as EUR2 and EUR1 and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 cents. The euro can be used in 11 other European countries: Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Portugal, and Spain.

The Austrian schilling (AS) was subdivided into 100 groschen. There were 10- and 50-groschen coins and 1-, 5-, 10-, and 20-schilling coins. Paper notes had a face value of AS20, AS50, AS100, AS500, AS1,000, and AS5,000.

Exchanging Money

Generally, exchange rates are far less favorable outside of Austria, and there is no need to exchange money prior to your arrival. ATMs are conveniently located in the city centers. Although fees charged for ATM transactions may be higher abroad than at home, Cirrus and Plus exchange rates are excellent, because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks.

Otherwise, the most favorable rates are through a bank. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores, although you may find their hours more convenient than at a bank.

Exchange Services

Chase Currency To Go (PHONE: 800/935-9935; 935-9935 in NY; NJ; and CT).

International Currency Express (PHONE: 888/278-6628 for orders, www.foreignmoney.com).

Thomas Cook Currency Services (PHONE: 800/287-7362 for telephone orders and retail locations, www.us.thomascook.com).

Taxes

Value-Added Tax

The value-added tax (VAT) in Austria is 20% generally but only 10% on food and clothing. Wine and spirits are heavily taxed -- nearly half of the sale price goes to taxes. For every contract signed in Austria (for example, car-rental agreements), you pay an extra 1% tax to the government, so tax on a rental car is 21%.

If you take your purchases with you when you leave Austria, you are entitled to a refund of the VAT paid. The shop will give you a form or a receipt, which must be presented at the border, where the articles are inspected. The Austrian government will send you your refund, minus a processing fee.

Global Refund is a V.A.T. refund service that makes getting your money back hassle-free. The service is available Europe-wide at 130,000 affiliated stores. In participating stores, ask for the Global Refund form (called a Shopping Cheque). Have it stamped like any customs form by customs officials when you leave the European Union. Then take the form to one of the more than 700 Global Refund counters -- conveniently located at every major airport and border crossing -- and your money will be refunded on the spot in the form of cash, check, or a refund to your credit-card account (minus a small percentage for processing).

Global Refund (707 Summer St., Stamford, CT 06901, PHONE: 800/566-9828, FAX: 203/674-8709, taxfree@us.globalrefund.com, www.globalrefund.com).

Tipping

Although virtually all hotels and restaurants include service charges in their rates, tipping is still customary, but at a level lower than in the United States. Tip the hotel doorman EUR1 per bag, and the porter who brings your bags to the room another EUR1 per bag. In very small country inns, such tips are not expected but are appreciated. In family-run establishments, tips are generally not given to immediate family members, only to employees. Tip the hotel concierge only for special services or in response to special requests. Room service gets EUR1-EUR2 for snacks or ice, EUR2 for full meals. Maids normally get no tip unless your stay is a week or more or service has been special.

In restaurants, round up the bill by 50 cents to EUR4 or about 5%. You can tip a little more if you've received exceptional service. Big tips are not usual in Austrian restaurants, since 10% has already been included in the prices. Hat-check attendants get EUR1-EUR2, depending on the locale. Washroom attendants get about 50 cents. Wandering musicians and the piano player get EUR1, EUR3 if they've filled a number of requests.

Round up taxi fares to the next 50 cents or EUR1; a minimum 50-cent tip is customary. If the driver offers (or you ask for) special assistance, such as carrying your bags beyond the curb, an added tip of 50 cents-EUR1 is in order.

Entering Vienna

U.S., Australian, Canadian, New Zealand, and U.K. citizens need only a valid passport to enter Austria for stays of up to three months.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport or to renew is during the fall and winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0990/210-410) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service).

The country code for Austria is 43. When dialing an Austrian number from abroad, drop the initial 0 from the local area code.

Austria's telephone service is in a state of change as the country converts to a digital system. We make every effort to keep numbers up to date, but do recheck the Vienna numbers if you have problems getting the connection you want (a sharp tone indicates no connection or that the number has been changed).

Directory & Operator Information

For international information dial 11812 for numbers in Germany, 11813 for numbers in other European countries, and 11814 for overseas numbers.

Most operators speak English; if yours doesn't, you'll be passed along to one who does.

International Calls

You can dial direct to almost any point on the globe from Austria. However, it costs more to telephone from Austria than it does to telephone to Austria. Calls from post offices are always the least expensive and you can get helpful assistance in placing a long-distance call; in large cities, these centers at main post offices are open around the clock.

To make a collect call -- you can't do this from pay phones -- dial the operator and ask for an R-Gespräch (pronounced air-ga-shprayk). Most operators speak English; if yours doesn't, you'll be passed to one who does.

The international access code for the United States and Canada is 001, followed by the area code and number. For Great Britain, first dial 0044, then the city code without the usual "0" (171 or 181 for London), and the number. Other country and many city codes are given in the front of telephone books (in Vienna, in the A-H book).

Local Calls

When making a local call in Vienna, dial the number without the city prefix. A local call costs about EUR.15 for every three minutes.

Long-Distance Calls

When placing a long-distance call to a destination within Austria, you'll need to know the local area codes. The following are area codes for major Austrian cities: Vienna, 01; Graz, 0316; Salzburg, 0662; Innsbruck, 0512; Linz, 0732. Note that calls within Austria are one-third cheaper between 6 PM and 8 AM on weekdays and from 1 PM on Saturday to 8 AM on Monday.

Phone Cards

If you plan to make calls from pay phones, a Wertkarte is a convenience. You can buy this electronic phone card at any post office for approximately EUR15, EUR7, or EUR3.50, and can use it at any Wertkartentelephon. You simply insert the card and dial; the cost of the call is automatically deducted from the card, and a digital window on the phone tells you how many units you have left (these are not minutes). A few public phones in the cities also take American Express, Diners, Mastercard, and Visa credit cards.

Public Phones

Coin-operated pay telephones are dwindling in number. A three-minute local call costs approximately EUR.15. At the oldest coin-operated machines (they are huge and grey) drop in coins, pick up the receiver and dial; when the party answers, push the indicated button and the connection will be made. If there is no response, your coin will be returned into the bin to the lower left. The smaller machines are more recent and don't have the button to connect. If your party has an answering machine you'll have to pay a little something. Most pay phones have instructions in English on them. Add coins when the time is up to continue the connection.

Faxes can be sent and received at post offices, but neither service is very cheap.

Tourist Offices

At Home

Austrian National Tourist Offices (www.anto.com):

In the U.S: 500 5th Ave., 20th floor, New York, NY 10110, PHONE: 212/944-6880, FAX: 212/730-4568; or write to Box 1142, New York, NY 10108.

In Canada: 2 Bloor St. E, Suite 3330, Toronto, Ontario M4W 1A8, PHONE: 416/967-3381, FAX: 416/967-4101; 1010 Sherbrooke St. W, Suite 1410, Montréal, Québec H3A 2R7, PHONE: 514/849-3709, FAX: 514/849-9577; 200 Granville St., Suite 1380, Granville Sq., Vancouver, British Columbia V6C 1S4, PHONE: 604/683-5808 or 604/683-8695, FAX: 604/662-8528.

In the U.K.: 30 St. George St., London W1R 0AL, PHONE: 020/7629-0461.

In Vienna

The main information office (walk-ins only) is the Vienna City Tourist Office (Fremdenverkehrsstelle der Stadt Wien, Kärntnerstr. 38), in back of the Opera House and around the corner from the Hotel Sacher, open daily 9-7. For phone inquiries call the Central Tourist Office (PHONE: 01/211140).

If you need a room, go to Information-Zimmernachweis, operated by the Verkehrsbüro in the main train stations (PHONE: 01/892-3392 Westbahnhof; 01/505-3132 Südbahnhof)

At the airport, the information and room-reservation office in the arrivals hall is open daily 8:30 AM-9 PM. None of these offices can book rooms by telephone; you must go to one of the locations in person.

If you're driving into Vienna, get information or book rooms at Tourist Information at the end of the Westautobahn (exit Autobahnausfahrt Wien-West) at Wientalstrasse/Auhof Raststätte, or from April to September at the end of the Südautobahn at Triesterstrasse 149.

U.S. Government Advisories

U.S. Department of State (Overseas Citizens Services Office, Room 4811 N.S., 2201 C St. NW, Washington, DC 20520, PHONE: 202/647-5225 for interactive hot line; 301/946-4400 for computer bulletin board, FAX: 202/647-3000 for interactive hot line); enclose a self-addressed, stamped, business-size envelope.

Austria has two main tourist seasons, the summer and the winter sports season, including the Christmas holidays. The weather usually turns glorious around Easter to mark the start of the summer season and holds until about mid-October, often later. May and early June, September, and October are the most pleasant months for travel; there is less demand for restaurant tables, and hotel prices tend to be lower.

A foreign invasion takes place between Christmas and New Year's Day, at which time many Viennese are already on the slopes of western Austria, and over the long Easter weekend, and hotel rooms in Vienna are at a premium. July and August and the main festivals are crowded times, but again, the Viennese head out for their vacations, so the city itself is relatively calm.

Austria has four distinct climatic seasons, all fairly mild. But because of altitudes and the Alpine divide, temperatures and dampness vary considerably from one part of the country to another; for example, northern Austria's winter is often overcast and dreary, while the southern half of the country basks in sunshine. The eastern part of the country, including Vienna, can become bitterly cold in winter.

The Föhn is a wind that makes the country as a whole go haywire. It comes from the south, is warm, and announces itself by very clear air, blue skies, and long wisps of cloud. Whatever the reason, the Alpine people (all the way to Vienna) begin acting up; some become obnoxiously aggressive, others depressive, many people have headaches, and (allegedly) accident rates rise. The Föhn breaks with clouds and rain.

Weather Chart

The following are average monthly maximum and minimum temperatures for Vienna:

January 34-25°F (1 to -4°C); February 37-27°F (3 to -3°C); March 46-34°F (8-1°C); April 59-43°F (15-6°C); May 66-50°F (19-10°C); June 73-57°F (23-14°C); July 77-59°F (25-15°C); August 75-59°F (24-15°C); September 68-52°F (20-11°C); October 57-45°F (14-7°C); November 45-37°F (7-3°C); December 37-30°F (3 to -1°C).

Holidays

All banks and shops are closed on national holidays: New Year's Day; Jan. 6, Epiphany; Easter Sunday and Monday; May 1, May Day; Ascension Day; Pentecost Sunday and Monday; Corpus Christi; Aug. 15, Assumption; Oct. 26, National Holiday; Nov. 1, All Saints' Day; Dec. 8, Immaculate Conception; Dec. 25-26, Christmas.

Museums are open on most holidays but closed on Good Friday, Dec. 24 and 25, and New Year's Day.

Banks and offices are closed on Dec. 8, but most shops are open.

Vienna is divided into 23 numbered districts. Taxi drivers may need to know which district you seek, as well as the street address. The district number is coded into the postal code with the second and third digits; thus A-1010 (the "01") is in the First District, A-1030 is in the Third, A-1110 is in the 11th, and so on. Some sources and maps still give the district numbers, either in Roman or Arabic numerals, as Vienna X or Vienna 10.

Vienna is a city to tackle on foot: A car is a burden, though very useful for trips outside town.

With the exception of the Schönbrunn and Belvedere palaces and the Prater amusement park, most sights are concentrated in the center, the First District (A-1010), much of which is a pedestrian zone anyway.

Vienna's public transportation system is fast, clean, safe, and easy to use. Get public transport maps at a tourist office or at the transport-information offices (Wiener Verkehrsbetriebe), underground at Karlsplatz, Stephansplatz, and Praterstern. You can transfer on the same ticket between subway, streetcar, bus, and for some stretches of the fast suburban railway, the Schnellbahn (S-Bahn).

Buy single tickets for AS22 from dispensers on the streetcar or bus; you'll need exact change. The ticket machines at subway stations (VOR-Fahrkarten) give change and dispense 24-hour, 72-hour, and eight-day tickets, as well as single tickets separately and in blocks of two and five. At Tabak-Trafik (cigarette shops/newsstands) or the underground Wiener Verkehrsbetriebe offices you can get a block of five tickets for AS95, each ticket good for one uninterrupted trip in more or less the same general direction with unlimited transfers.

Or you can get a three-day ticket for AS150, good on all lines for 72 hours from the time you validate the ticket; there's also a 24-hour ticket for AS60. If you're staying longer, get an eight-day ticket (AS300), which can be used on eight separate days or by any number of persons (up to eight) at any one time.

Children under 6 travel free on Vienna's public transport system; children under 15 travel free on Sundays, public holidays, and during Vienna school holidays. Public transportation is on the honor system, but if you're caught without a punched ticket, the fine is AS560, payable immediately.

Tabak-Trafik Almassy (Stephanspl. 4, to the right behind cathedral, PHONE: 01/512-5909) is open every day from 8 AM to 7 PM and has tickets as well as film and other items.

Ask at tourist offices or your hotel about a Vienna-Card; costing EUR15.26, the card combines 72 hours' use of public transportation and discounts at certain museums and shops.

The first streetcars start running around 5:15 AM. From then on, service (barring gridlock on the streets) is regular and reliable, and most lines operate until about midnight. Where streetcars don't run, buses do; route maps and schedules are posted at each bus or subway stop.

Should you miss the last streetcar or bus, special night buses with an N designation operate at half-hour intervals over several key routes; the starting (and transfer) points are the Opera House and Schwedenplatz. The night-owl buses take a special fare of EUR1.81, tickets available on the bus; normal and 72-hour tickets and the Vienna-Card are not valid.

Within the heart of the city, bus lines 1A, 2A, and 3A are useful crosstown routes. These carry a reduced fare of EUR.62 per trip if you have bought the Kurzstrecke ticket (EUR2.76), good for four trips or up to four people on one trip (with no transfer). The Kurzstrecke tickets are also valid for two stops on the subway or shorter distances on the streetcar lines.

Traffic congestion within Vienna has gotten out of hand, and driving to in-town destinations generally takes longer than public transportation. City planners' solutions have been to make driving as difficult as possible, with one-way streets and other tricks, and a car in town is far more of a burden than a pleasure. Drivers not familiar with the city literally need a navigator.

Car Rentals

Rates in Vienna begin at EUR44 a day and EUR145 a weekend for an economy car with a manual transmission, and unlimited mileage. This includes a 21% tax on car rentals.

Renting a car in Germany may be cheaper, but make sure the rental agency knows you are driving into Austria and that the car is equipped with an autobahn sticker for Austria.

It's cheaper to arrange your rental car from the U.S., but be sure to get a confirmation of your quoted rate in writing.

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633; 020/8759-6200 in the United Kingdom).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 020/8897-0811 in the United Kingdom; 02/9223-1444 in Australia).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia).

National (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom).

In Vienna

Rental cars can be arranged at the airport or in town. Major firms include:

Avis (Airport, PHONE: 01/7007-32700; Opernring 5, PHONE: 01/587-6241).

Buchbinder (Schlachthausg. 38, A-1030 Vienna, PHONE: 01/717-50-0, FAX: 01/717-5022). This is a local firm with particularly favorable rates and clean cars.

Budget (Airport, PHONE: 01/7007-32711; Hilton Hotel, Am Stadtpark, PHONE: 01/714-6565-0).

Europcar (Airport, PHONE: 01/7007-33316; Erdberg Park & Ride, PHONE: 01/799-6176).

Hertz (Kärntner Ring 17, PHONE: 01/512-8677).

Requirements

In Austria your own driver's license is acceptable. An International Driver's Permit is a good idea; it's available from the American or Canadian automobile association, and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club. These international permits are universally recognized, and having one in your wallet may save you a problem with the local authorities.

There is no age limit to renting a car at most agencies in Austria. However, you must have had a valid driver's license for one year. For some of the more expensive car models, drivers must be at least 25 years of age. There is also usually an extra charge to drive over the border into Italy, Slovakia, Slovenia, Hungary, and the Czech Republic, but no extra charge to drive to Germany.

Road Conditions

The Austrian highway network is excellent, and roads are well maintained and well marked. Secondary roads may be narrow and winding. The main highway routes (autobahns), especially the A2 down to Carinthia and Italy, are packed during both Austrian and German school holidays, as well as on weekends in summer.

As a nod to the environment, less salt is being used on highways in winter, but few drivers seem to take heed of the greater hazard. Remember that in winter you will need snow tires and often chains, even on well-traveled roads. It's wise to check with the automobile clubs for weather conditions, since mountain roads are often blocked, and ice and fog are hazards.

Rules of the Road

The First and the Sixth through Ninth districts are limited-parking zones and require that a Parkschein, a paid-parking chit available at most newsstands and tobacconists, be displayed on the dash during the day. Parkscheine cost AS6 for 30 minutes, AS12 for 1 hour, and AS18 for 90 minutes. You can park 10 minutes free of charge, but you must get a "gratis" sticker to put in your windshield.

You can also park free in the First District on Saturday and Sunday, but not overnight. Overnight street parking in the First and Sixth through Ninth districts is restricted to residents with special permits; all other cars are subject to expensive ticketing or even towing, so in these districts be sure you have off-street garage parking.

If you intend to drive on the autobahn, your car must be equipped with an Autobahnvignette, a little trapezoidal sticker with a highway icon and the Austrian eagle, or with a calendar marked with an M or a W. It costs AS550 for a year and is available at gas stations, tobacconists, and automobile-club outlets in neighboring countries or near the border. You can also purchase a two-month Vignette for AS150, or a ten-day one for AS70. Prices are for vehicles up to 3.5 tons and RVs. For motorcycles it is AS220. Not having a Vignette (which is generally called the Pickerl) can lead to high fines. Get your Pickerl before driving to Austria!

Besides the Pickerl, if you are planning to drive around a lot, budget in a great deal of toll money: For example, the tunnels on the A10 autobahn cost AS70 apiece, the Grossglockner Pass road will cost AS350, and passing through the Arlberg Tunnel costs AS130. Driving up some especially beautiful valleys, such as the Kaunertal in Tirol, or up to the Tauplitzalm in Styria, will cost you around AS120.

A Fiaker, or horse cab, will trot you around to whatever destination you specify, but this is an expensive way to see the city. A short tour of the inner city takes about 20 minutes and costs EUR36; a longer one including the Ringstrasse takes about 40 minutes and costs EUR58, for the whole Fiaker. The carriages accommodate four (five if someone sits next to the coachman). Starting points are Heldenplatz in front of the Hofburg, Stephansplatz beside the cathedral, and across from the Albertina, all in the First District. For longer trips, or any variation of the regular route, agree on the price first.

Five subway (U-Bahn) lines, whose stations are prominently marked with blue U signs, crisscross the city. Karlsplatz and Stephansplatz are the main transfer points between lines. The last subway (U4) runs at about 12:30 AM.

Taxis in Vienna are relatively inexpensive. The initial charge is EUR1.89 for as many as four people during the daytime, or EUR1.96 at night, on weekends, and on holidays. A small extra charge is added for radio cabs ordered by phone and for each piece of luggage that must go into the trunk, and a charge is added for waiting beyond a reasonable limit. It's customary to round up the fare to cover the tip.

Service is usually prompt, but when you hit rush hour, the weather is bad, or you need to keep to an exact schedule, call ahead and order a taxi for a specific time. If your destination is the airport, ask for a reduced-rate taxi.

Contact the following for a chauffeured limousine:

Göth (PHONE: 01/713-7196).

Mazur (PHONE: 01/604-2233).

Peter Urban (PHONE: 01/713-5255).