The major gateways to D.C. include:

Ronald Reagan National Airport (DCA) (PHONE: 703/417-8000, www.mwaa.com), in Virginia, is 4 mi south of downtown Washington.

Dulles International Airport (IAD) (45020 Aviation Dr., Sterling, VA 20166-7506, PHONE: 703/572-2700, www.mwaa.com) is 26 mi west of Washington.

Baltimore-Washington International Airport (BWI) (PHONE: 410/859-7100, www.bwiairport.com) is in Maryland, about 30 mi northeast of Washington.

A flight to D.C. from New York takes a little less than an hour. It's about 1½ hours from Chicago, 3 hours from Denver, and 5 hours from San Francisco. Those flying from London can expect a trip of about 6 hours.

Carriers

All major airlines fly into BWI, Ronald Reagan National, and Dulles airports, except America West, which doesn't fly into Dulles.

Of the smaller airlines, Air Tran flies to Dulles and Midwest Express flies to both. Southwest has service to BWI.

Major Airlines

Air Canada (PHONE: 888/422-7533, www.aircanada.ca).

America West (PHONE: 800/235-9292, www.americawest.com).

American (PHONE: 800/433-7300, www.aa.com).

Continental (PHONE: 800/525-0280, www.continental.com).

Delta (PHONE: 800/221-1212, www.delta.com).

Northwest (PHONE: 800/225-2525, www.nwa.com).

United (PHONE: 800/241-6522, www.united.com).

US Airways (PHONE: 800/428-4322, www.usairways.com).

Smaller Airlines

Air Tran (PHONE: 800/825-8538, www.airtran.com).

Midwest Express (PHONE: 800/452-2022, www.midwestexpress.com).

Southwest (PHONE: 800/435-9792, www.southwest.com).

From the U.K.

American (PHONE: 0345/789-789).

British Airways (PHONE: 0345/222-111).

Delta (PHONE: 0800/414-767).

United (PHONE: 0800/888-555).

Virgin Atlantic (PHONE: 01293/747-747).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Bus

The Washington Flyer (PHONE: 888/washfly or 703/572-8400, www.washfly.com) Coach Service provides a convenient link between Dulles Airport and the West Falls Church (VA) Metro station. The 20-minute ride is $8 one-way or $14 round-trip; buses run every half hour. All coaches are disabled-accessible. Fares may be paid in cash or with Visa or MasterCard; children under age six ride free.

The Washington Metropolitan Area Transit Authority (WMATA: PHONE: 202/637-7000; 202/638-3780 TDD, www.metroopensdoors.com) operates an express Metro bus service between downtown Washington, D.C., to Dulles.

Reagan National, Dulles, and BWI airports are served by SuperShuttle (PHONE: 800/258-3826 or 202/296-6662, www.supershuttle.com), which will take you to a specific hotel or residence. Make reservations at the ground transportation desk. Fares vary depending on the destination. The 20-minute ride from Reagan National to downtown averages $9-$13; the 45-minute ride from Dulles runs $22-$25; the 65-minute ride from BWI averages $28-$30; drivers accept major credit cards in addition to cash. The length of the ride varies depending on traffic and the number of stops that need to be made.

By Car

To get to downtown Washington from Dulles International Airport, take VA-267 to I-66 East, and continue toward the E Street Expressway to E Street NW.

From Ronald Reagan National Airport, take I-395 North to the 12th Street exit.

From Baltimore-Washington International Airport, take I-95 West to the MD-295 South exit towards Washington (Exit 2B); continue on MD-295 South and take the US-50 West exit towards Washington.

By Limousine

Private Car (PHONE: 800/685-0888, www.cinecola.com) has two counters at BWI Airport and charges approximately $70 plus a 15% tip for up to four passengers traveling from there to downtown; or call ahead to have a car waiting for you at Reagan National (approximately $45 plus 15% tip) or Dulles (approximately $85 plus 15% tip). Reservations are a good idea.

By Metro

If you're coming into Ronald Reagan National Airport, have little to carry, and are staying at a hotel near a subway stop, it makes sense to take the Metro. The station is within walking distance of the baggage claim area, but a free airport shuttle bus runs between the Metro station and Terminal A. The Metro ride downtown takes about 20 minutes and costs $1.10-$2, depending on the time of day and your end destination.

By Taxi

Expect to pay about $14 to get from Ronald Reagan National Airport to downtown, $50-$65 from Dulles, and $58-$65 from BWI. A $1.50 airport surcharge is added to the total at all airports. A $1 surcharge is added to the total for travel during rush hour.

Unscrupulous cabbies prey on out-of-towners, so if the fare strikes you as astronomical, get the driver's name and cab number and threaten to call the D.C. Taxicab Commission (PHONE: 202/645-6018).

By Train

Free shuttle buses carry passengers between airline terminals and the train station at BWI Airport.

Amtrak (PHONE: 800/872-7245, www.amtrak.com) trains run between BWI and Washington's Union Station from around 6 AM to 10 PM. The cost of the 30-minute ride is $20-$32.

Maryland Rail Commuter Service (MARC) (PHONE: 800/325-7245, www.mtamaryland.com) trains run between BWI and Washington's Union Station from around 6 AM to 10 PM. The cost of the 30-minute ride is $5, which only runs on weekdays.

Washington is a major terminal for Greyhound Bus Lines (1005 1st St. NE, PHONE: 202/289-5160 or 800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com). The company also has stations in nearby Silver Spring, Maryland, and in Arlington and Springfield, Virginia.

You can purchase your ticket 10 days in advance via the Internet, or pay for your ticket in the station before you board the bus. Greyhound accepts all major credit cards and cash.

Interstate 95 skirts D.C. as part of the Beltway, the six- to eight-lane highway that encircles the city. The eastern half of the Beltway is labeled both I-95 and I-495; the western half is just I-495. If you are coming from the south, take I-95 to I-395 and cross the 14th Street Bridge to 14th Street in the District. From the north, stay on I-95 south. Take the exit to Washington, which will put you on the Baltimore-Washington (B-W) Parkway heading south. The B-W Parkway will turn into New York Avenue, taking you into downtown Washington, D.C.

Interstate 66 approaches the city from the southwest. You can get downtown by taking I-66 across the Theodore Roosevelt Bridge to Constitution Avenue.

Interstate 270 approaches Washington from the northwest before hitting I-495. To get downtown, take I-495 east to Connecticut Avenue south, toward Chevy Chase.

More than 80 trains a day arrive at Washington, D.C.'s Union Station. Acela, Amtrak's high-speed service, travels from D.C. to New York in 2½ hours and from D.C. to Boston in 6½ hours.

Fares and Schedules

Amtrak tickets and reservations are available at Amtrak stations, by telephone, through travel agents, or on-line. Amtrak schedule and fare information can be found at Union Station as well as on-line.

Train Information

Acela (PHONE: 800/872-7245).

Amtrak (PHONE: 800/872-7245, www.amtrak.com).

MARC (PHONE: 800/325-7245, www.mtamaryland.com).

Union Station (50 Massachusetts Ave. NE; PHONE: 202/371-9441, www.unionstationdc.com).

Washington Metropolitan Area Transit Authority (WMATA; PHONE: 202/637-7000; 202/638-3780; 202/628-8973 TDD, www.wmata.com).

Reservations

Amtrak has both reserved and unreserved trains available. If you plan to travel during peak times, such as a Friday night or near a holiday, you'll need to get a reservation and a ticket in advance. Some trains at non-peak times are unreserved, with seats assigned on a first-come, first-served basis.

Banks

Banks are generally open weekdays 9-3. On Friday, many stay open until 5 or close at 2 and open again from 4 to 6.

Museums and Sights

Museums are usually open daily 10-5:30; some have later hours on Thursday. Many private museums are closed Monday or Tuesday, and some museums in government buildings are closed weekends. The Smithsonian often sets extended spring and summer hours for some of its museums.

Pharmacies

Most pharmacies are open daily from 9 to 6; many have longer hours than this on weekdays.

Shops

Stores are generally open Monday-Saturday 10-6. Some have extended hours on Thursday and many open Sunday anywhere from 10 to noon and close at 5 or 6.

Arriving in the United States

Non-U.S. residents ages 21 and older may import into the United States 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 2 kilograms of tobacco, 1 liter of alcohol, and gifts worth $100. Meat products, seeds, plants, and fruits are prohibited.

For additional information, contact the U.S. Customs Service (for inquiries, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229, www.customs.gov, PHONE: 202/354-1000; for complaints, Customer Satisfaction Unit, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Room 5.5A, Washington, DC 20229; for registration of equipment, Office of Passenger Programs, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Room 5.4D, Washington, DC 20229, PHONE: 202/927-0530).

The U.S. electrical standard is 110 volts/60 cycles AC. Foreign visitors traveling with dual-voltage appliances will not need a converter, but they will need a plug adapter. The standard U.S. electrical outlet takes a plug of two flat pins set parallel to one another.

Australia

Australian Embassy (1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036, PHONE: 202/797-3000, FAX: 202/797-3040).

Canada

Canadian Embassy (501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001, PHONE: 202/682-1740, FAX: 202/682-7726).

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy (37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008, PHONE: 202/328-4800, FAX: 202/667-5227).

United Kingdom

British Embassy (3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008, PHONE: 202/588-7800, FAX: 202/588-7850).

Ambulance (PHONE: 911).

Fire (PHONE: 911).

Police (PHONE: 911).

Doctors and Dentists

1-800-DOCTORS (PHONE: 800/362-8677) is a referral service that locates doctors, dentists, and urgent-care clinics in the greater Washington area.

D.C. Dental Society (PHONE: 202/547-7615) operates a referral line weekdays from 8 to 4.

Hospital Emergency Rooms

Children's National Medical Center (111 Michigan Ave. NW, PHONE: 202/884-5000).

George Washington University Hospital (901 23rd St. NW, PHONE: 202/715-4911 emergencies only; 202/715-4000 non-emergencies).

Georgetown University Medical Center (3800 Reservoir Rd. NW, PHONE: 202/784-2000).

Washington Hospital Center (110 Irving St. NW, PHONE: 202/877-7000).

24-Hour Pharmacies

CVS Pharmacy (14th St. and Vermont Ave. NW on Thomas Circle, PHONE: 202/628-0720; 7 Dupont Circle NW, PHONE: 202/785-1466).

Bicycle Tours

Bike the Sites Tours (PHONE: 202/966-8662, www.bikethesites.com) has knowledgeable guides leading daily tours of 55 Washington landmarks; these tours are geared to the occasional exerciser. Bicycles, helmets, snacks, and water bottles are included. Prices are $40 for adults; $30 for children 12 and under.

The national Adventure Cycling Association (PHONE: 800/755-2453, www.adventurecycling.org) offers regional tours.

Boat Tours

The enclosed boat called the Dandy (Prince St., between Duke and King Sts., Alexandria, VA, PHONE: 703/683-6076 or 703/683-6090, www.dandydinnerboat.com) cruises up the Potomac to Georgetown. Lunch cruises board weekdays starting at 10:30 AM and weekends starting at 11:30 AM. Dinner cruises board daily at 6:30 PM. Prices are $30.50 -- $38 for lunch and $61.50-$74.50 for dinner.

D.C. Ducks (PHONE: 202/832-9800, www.historictours.com) offers 90-minute tours in converted World War II amphibious vehicles from March through October. After an hour-long road tour of prominent sights, the tour moves from land to water, as the vehicle is piloted into the waters of the Potomac for a 30-minute boat's-eye view of the city. Tickets are $25 for adults and $13 for children.

Odyssey III (600 Water St. SW, PHONE: 202/488-6010, www.odysseycruises.com), a long, sleek vessel specially built to fit under the Potomac's bridges, departs from the Gangplank Marina at 6th and Water streets SW. Lunch, dinner, or Saturday and Sunday brunch cruises are among the options. Prices start at $35 and go up to $86. This upscale, glass-enclosed vessel serves elegant food; jackets are requested for men at dinner.

The Spirit of Washington (Pier 4, 6th and Water Sts. SW, PHONE: 202/554-8000, www.spiritcruises.com) offers a lunch and dinner cruises and sightseeing tours to Mount Vernon; prices range from $31 to $76 depending on the type of cruise and the time of year.

Bus Tours

All About Town, Inc. (PHONE: 301/856-5556, www.allabouttowntours.webatonce.com, aatc@aol.com) has half-day, all-day, two-day, and twilight bus tours that drive by some sights and stop at others. Tours leave from various downtown locations and hotels. An all-day tour costs $36.

Gray Line (PHONE: 301/386-8300, www.graylinedc.com) has a four-hour tour of Washington, Embassy Row, and Arlington National Cemetery that leaves Union Station at 8:30 AM (late June 25-late October) and 2 PM (year-round; adults $28, children $14); tours of Mount Vernon and Alexandria depart at 8:30 AM (year-round) and 2 PM (late June-late October; adults $28, children $14). An all-day trip combining both tours leaves at 8:30 AM (year-round; adults $48, children $24).

Orientation Tours

Old Town Trolley Tours (PHONE: 202/832-9800, www.trolleytours.com), orange-and-green motorized trolleys, take in the main downtown sights and also foray into Georgetown and the upper northwest. Tickets are $24.

Tourmobile (PHONE: 202/554-5100, www.tourmobile.com) buses, authorized by the National Park Service, make 25 stops at more than 40 historical sites between the Capitol and Arlington National Cemetery. Tickets are $18 ($8 for children ages 3-11).

Private Guides

Guide Service of Washington (733 15th St. NW, Suite 1040, Washington, DC 20005, PHONE: 202/628-2842, www.dctourguides.com) offers private tours.

Sonny Odom (2420F S. Walter Reed Dr., Arlington, VA 22206, PHONE: 703/379-1633, www.sonnyodom.photoreflect.com) offers custom photography tours.

A Tour de Force (Box 2782, Washington, DC 20013, PHONE: 703/525-2948, www.atourdeforce.com) offers private tours.

Special-Interest Tours

Special tours of some government buildings can be arranged through your representative's or senator's office. Limited numbers of these so-called VIP tickets are available, so plan up to six months in advance of your trip.

Contacts

Bureau of Engraving and Printing (14th and C Sts. SW, PHONE: 202/874-3188, www.bep.treas.gov).

Goodwill Embassy Tour (PHONE: 202/636-4225, www.dcgoodwill.com).

Old Executive Office Building (Pennsylvania Ave. and 17th St. NW, PHONE: 202/395-5895).

Gross National Product's Scandal Tours (PHONE: 202/783-7212, www.gnpcomedy.com) last 75 to 90 minutes and head to some of Washington's seamier locales. Tours leave from the Pavilion at the Old Post Office Building on Saturday at 1 PM (April 1 through Labor Day only). The cost is $30 per person; reservations are required.

State Department Diplomatic Reception Rooms (23rd and C Sts. NW, PHONE: 202/647-3241; 202/736-4474 TDD).

Voice of America (330 Independence Ave. SW, PHONE: 202/619-3919, www.voa.gov).

Washington, D.C., Post Office (Brentwood Rd. NE between Rhode Island and New York Aves., PHONE: 202/636-2148).

The Washington Post (1150 15th St. NW, PHONE: 202/334-7969, www.washingtonpost.com).

Walking Tours

Guided walks and bus tours of neighborhoods in Washington and communities outside the city are routinely offered by the Smithsonian Resident Associates Program (PHONE: 202/357-3030, www.smithsonianassociates.org); advance tickets are required.

Tour D.C. (1912 Glen Ross Rd., Silver Spring, MD 20910, PHONE: 301/588-8999, www.tourdc.com) specializes in walking tours of Georgetown and Dupont Circle, covering historical topics such as the Civil War and the underground railroad and featuring the Kennedys' Georgetown.

Guided Walking Tours of D.C. (9009 Paddock La., Potomac, MD 20854, PHONE: 301/294-9514, www.dcsightseeing.com) leads anecdotal history tours of Georgetown, Adams-Morgan, Capitol Hill and the White House.

The Black History National Recreation Trail links a group of sights illustrating aspects of African-American history in Washington, from slavery days to the New Deal. A brochure outlining the trail is available from the National Park Service (1100 Ohio Dr. SW, Washington, DC 20242, PHONE: 202/619-7222, www.nps.gov).

Capital Entertainment Services (3633 18th St. NE, Washington, DC 20018, PHONE: 202/636-9203, www.washington-dc-tours.com) offers tours focusing on African-American history.

Every address in the United States belongs to a specific zip-code district, and each zip code has five digits. Some addresses include a second sequence of four numbers following the first five numbers, but although this speeds mail delivery for large organizations, it is not necessary to use it. Each zip-code district has at least one post office, where you can buy stamps and aerograms, send parcels, or conduct other postal business.

Occasionally you may find small stamp-dispensing machines in airports, train stations, bus terminals, large office buildings, hotel lobbies, drugstores, or grocery stores, but don't count on it. Most Americans go to the post office to buy their stamps, and the lines can be long.

Official mailboxes are either the stout, royal blue steel bins on city sidewalks or mail chutes on the walls of post offices or in large office buildings. A schedule posted on mailboxes and mail slots should indicate when the mail is picked up.

Post Offices

National Capitol Station (2 Massachusetts Ave. NE PHONE: 202/523-2368; 202/635-5300 customer information, www.usps.gov).

Sending Mail Home

First-class letters (one ounce or less) sent within the United States cost 37 cents; postcards are 23 cents. A one-ounce letter to Canada or Mexico takes a 60-cent stamp and a postcard 50 cents. Letters sent airmail to all other overseas destinations cost 80 cents for one ounce or less (this rate category is now called airmail letter-post, and surface mail is now called economy letter-post); airmail postcards to other overseas destinations cost 70 cents. For 70 cents, you can also buy an aerogram -- a pre-stamped sheet of lightweight blue paper that folds into its own envelope.

Receiving Mail

If you wish to receive mail while traveling in the United States, have it sent c/o General Delivery at the city's main post office (be sure to use the right zip code). It will be held there for up to 30 days. You must pick it up in person, and bring identification with you. American Express offices in the United States do not hold mail.

Washington is an expensive city, comparable to New York. On the other hand, most attractions, including most museums, are free.

ATMs

Most ATMs in the Washington, D.C., area are linked to national networks that let you withdraw money from your checking account or take a cash advance from your credit card account for an additional fee. ATMs can be found at most banks, in many grocery stores, and in some major tourist attractions. For more information on ATM locations that can be accessed with your particular account, call the phone number found on the back of your ATM or debit card.

Currency

The basic unit of U.S. currency is the dollar, which is subdivided into 100 cents. Coins are the copper penny (1 cent) and four silver coins: the nickel (5 cents), the dime (10 cents), the quarter (25 cents), and the half-dollar (50 cents). Silver $1 coins and "golden" dollar coins (the latter introduced in 2000) are rarely seen in circulation. Paper money comes in denominations of $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100. All these bills are the same size and green in color; they are distinguishable only by the dollar amount indicated on them and by pictures of various famous American people and monuments.

For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. Although fees charged for ATM transactions may be higher abroad than at home, Cirrus and Plus exchange rates are excellent, because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores, although you may find their hours more convenient. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get a bit of local currency before you leave home.

In general, U.S. banks will not cash a personal check for you unless you have an account at that bank (it doesn't have to be at that branch). Only in major cities are large bank branches equipped to exchange foreign currencies. Therefore, it's best to rely on credit cards, cash machines, and traveler's checks to handle expenses while you're traveling.

Exchanging Money

In the United States, it is not as easy to find places to exchange currency as it is in European cities. In major international cities, such as New York and Los Angeles, currency may be exchanged at some bank branches, as well as at currency-exchange booths in airports and at foreign-currency offices such as American Express Travel Service and Thomas Cook (check local directories for addresses and phone numbers). The best strategy is to buy traveler's checks in U.S. dollars before you come to the United States; although the rates may not be as good abroad, the time saved by not having to search constantly for exchange facilities far outweighs any financial loss.

Money Orders, Funds Transfers

Any U.S. bank is equipped to accept transfers of funds from foreign banks. It helps if you can plan dates to pick up money at specific bank branches. Your home bank can supply you with a list of its correspondent banks in the United States.

If you have more time, and you have a U.S. address where you can receive mail, you can have someone send you a certified check, which you can cash at any bank, or a postal money order (for as much as $700, obtained for a fee of up to 85¢ at any U.S. post office and redeemable at any other post office). From overseas, you can have someone go to a bank to send you an international money order (also called a bank draft), which will cost a $15-$20 commission plus airmail postage. Always bring two valid pieces of identification, preferably with photos, to claim your money.

Taxes

Sales tax is 5.75% in D.C., 5% in Maryland, and 3.5% in Virginia. Hotel tax is 14.5% in Washington, 12% in Maryland, and 9.75% in Virginia.

Tipping

At restaurants, a 15% tip is standard for waiters; up to 20% may be expected at more expensive establishments. The same goes for taxi drivers, bartenders, and hairdressers. Coat-check operators usually expect $1-$2; bellhops and porters should get 50¢-$1 per bag; hotel maids in upscale hotels should get about 4%-5% of the pre-tax room rate per day of your stay. On package tours, conductors and drivers usually get $10 per day from the group as a whole; check whether this has already been figured into your cost. For local sightseeing tours, you may individually tip the driver-guide a few dollars if he or she has been helpful or informative. Ushers in theaters, museum guides, and gas station attendants do not expect tips.

A concierge typically receives a tip of $5 to $10, with an additional gratuity for special services or favors.

Entering the United States

Visitor visas are not necessary for Canadian citizens, or for citizens of Australia and the United Kingdom who are staying fewer than 90 days. A valid passport, a return-trip ticket, and proof of financial solvency are required; you'll be asked to fill out the Visa Waiver Form, I-94W, upon entry. Travelers who plan to stay more than 90 days can apply for the appropriate visa at the United States embassy or consulates in their home country. Canadian citizens need valid identification but neither a passport nor a visa to enter the United States.

At Home

If you live in the U.K.:

U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (PHONE: 09068/200-290 recorded visa information; 09055/444-546 operator service; both with per-minute charges).

U.S. Embassy Visa Branch (5 Upper Grosvenor Sq., London W1A 2JB). Send a self-addressed, stamped envelope for U.S. visa information.

If you live in Northern Ireland:

U.S. Consulate General (Queen's House, 14 Queen St., Belfast, Northern Ireland BT1 6EQ, PHONE: 028/9032-8239, www.usembassy.org.uk).

If you live in Australia:

United States Consulate General (MLC Centre, 19-29 Martin Pl., 59th floor, Sydney, New South Wales 2000, PHONE: 02/9373-9200; 1902/941-641 fee-based visa-inquiry line, www.usis-australia.gov/index.html).

If you live in New Zealand:

Embassy of the United States (29 Fitzherbert Terr., Thorndon, Wellington, PHONE: 04/462-6000 usembassy.org.nz).

U.S. Consulate General (Citibank Bldg., 3rd floor, 23 Customs St. E, Auckland, PHONE: 09/303-2724, usembassy.org.nz).

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.dfat.gov.au/passports).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.ukpa.gov.uk) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

D.C. is a fairly safe city, but as with any metropolitan area it's best to be alert and aware. Tourist areas and train stations are heavily patrolled by the city's numerous police affiliations. At night, stay in highly populated areas, and avoid dark streets and alleys. Panhandlers can be aggressive and may respond with verbal insults, but are otherwise usually harmless. If someone threatens you with violence for money, it's best to hand it over without a fight and seek police help later.

The only scam you are likely to encounter in D.C. is an elaborate story from a panhandler. In order to evoke sympathy, a well-dressed panhandler may pretend to have lost his wallet and need money to get home or a woman may say she needs cab fare to take a sick child to the hospital. A simple, "I'm sorry," is usually enough to send them on their way, or you may suggest they call the police for help.

The country code for the United States is 1. The area code for Washington, D.C., is 202. The area codes for Virginia are 703, 571 and 804. The area codes for Maryland are 301, 240, 443 and 410.

All U.S. telephone numbers consist of 10 digits -- the three-digit area code, followed by a seven-digit local number. If you're calling a number from another area-code region, dial "1" then all 10 digits. If you're calling from a distance but within the same area code, dial "1" then the last seven digits. For calls within the same local calling area, just dial the seven-digit number. A map of U.S. area codes is printed in the front of most local telephone directories.

Four special prefixes, "800," "888," "877," and "900," are not area codes but indicators of particular kinds of service. "800," "888," and "877" numbers can be dialed free from anywhere in the country -- usually they are prepaid commercial lines that make it easier for consumers to obtain information, products, or services. The "900" numbers charge you for making the call and generally offer some kind of entertainment, such as horoscope readings, sports scores, or sexually suggestive conversations. These services can be very expensive, so know what you're getting into before you dial a "900" number.

Directory & Operator Information

For assistance from an operator, dial "0". To get a local or national telephone number, dial 411; in a few places it is necessary to dial 555-1212. If you want to charge a long-distance call to the person you're calling, call collect by dialing "0" instead of "1" before the 10-digit number, and an operator will come on the line to assist you (the party you're calling, however, has the right to refuse the call).

International Calls

International calls can be direct-dialed from most phones; dial 011, followed by the country code and then the local number (the front pages of many local telephone directories include a list of overseas country codes). To have an operator assist you, dial "0" and ask for the overseas operator. The country code for Australia is 61; New Zealand, 64; and the United Kingdom, 44. To reach Canada, dial 1 + area code + number.

Long-Distance Calls

Competitive long-distance carriers make calling within the United States relatively convenient and let you avoid hotel surcharges. By dialing an 800 number, you can get connected to the long-distance company of your choice.

For details, contact AT&T (PHONE: 800/225-5288), MCI (PHONE: 800/888-8000), or Sprint (PHONE: 800/366-2255).

Public Phones

The most common pay phone in operation today is the coin-operated type. To use one, pick up the receiver, deposit your money (25¢-50¢ for local calls), wait for a steady tone before dialing, and then dial the number. An automated message will alert you to deposit more money, if needed.

Telephone-card phones, so popular elsewhere in the world, are becoming increasingly common. Grocery stores, newsstands, and other establishments sell the disposable phone cards, available in varying amounts from $5 and up. To activate the card, dial the code number and follow the instructions printed on the card.

The Washington, D.C., Convention and Tourism Corporation offers a free, 128-page publication full of sightseeing tips, maps, and contacts. The Washington MTA publishes a metro and bus-system guide.

The National Portrait Gallery and the Smithsonian American Art Museum are closed for renovations through 2005. All Smithsonian museums and the National Zoo are open every day of the year except Christmas; admission is free.

Tourist Offices

D.C. Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center (Reagan Bldg., 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Suite 309, Washington, DC 20004, PHONE: 202/328-4748, www.dcvisit.com).

Washington, D.C., Convention and Tourism Corporation (1212 New York Ave. NW, Suite 600, Washington, DC 20005, PHONE: 202/789-7000 or 800/422-8644, www.washington.org).

Washington MTA (PHONE: 202/637-7000, www.metroopensdoors.com).

At Home

Canadian travelers can contact Travel USA (PHONE: 905/890-5662; 800/268-3482 in Ontario).

In the United Kingdom, contact the United States Travel and Tourism Administration (Box 1EN, London W1A 1EN, PHONE: 020/7495-4466).

Events and Attractions

White House Visitor Center (Baldridge Hall, Dept. of Commerce, 1450 S. Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20230, PHONE: 202/208-1631, www.nps.gov/whho).

Smithsonian (PHONE: 202/357-2700; 202/357-2020 "Dial-a-Museum"; 202/357-1729 TDD, www.si.edu).

Dial-A-Park (PHONE: 202/619-7275).

National Parks

National Park Service (NPS; Office of Public Affairs, National Capital Region, 1100 Ohio Dr. SW, Washington, DC 20242, PHONE: 202/619-7222, www.nps.gov).

State Information

State of Maryland (Office of Tourist Development, 217 E. Redwood St., 9th floor, Baltimore, MD 21202, PHONE: 410/767-3400 or 800/634-7386, www.mdisfun.org).

Virginia Tourism Corporation (Headquarters: 901 E. Byrd St., Richmond, VA 23219, PHONE: 804/786-4484 or 804/786-2051, www.virginia.org; walk-in office: 1629 K St. NW, Washington, DC 20006, PHONE: 202/872-0523 or 800/934-9184).

Washington has two delightful seasons: spring and autumn. In spring, the city's ornamental fruit trees are budding, and its many gardens are in bloom. By autumn, most of the summer crowds have left and you can enjoy the sights in peace. Summers can be uncomfortably hot and humid. Winter weather is often bitter, with a handful of modest snowstorms that somehow bring this southern city to a standstill. When lawmakers break for recess (at Thanksgiving, Christmas, Easter, July 4, the entire month of August, and other holiday periods), the city seems a little less vibrant.

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Washington, DC:January 34-47°F (-1 to 8°C); February 34-47°F (-1 to 8°C); March 38-56°F (3-13°C); April 47-67°F (8-19°C); May 58-76°F (14-24°C); June 65-85°F (18-29°C); July 70-88°F (21-31°C); August 68-86°F (20-30°C); September 61-79°F (16-26°C); October 52-70°F (11-21°C); November 41-56°F (5-13°C); December 32-47°F (0-8°C).

Holidays

Because Washington is a federal city, it officially observes only federal holidays: New Year's Day (Jan. 1); Martin Luther King Jr. Day (3rd Mon. in Jan.); Presidents' Day (3rd Mon. in Feb.); Memorial Day (last Mon. in May); Independence Day (July 4); Labor Day (1st Mon. in Sept.); Columbus Day (2nd Mon. in Sept.); Veterans' Day (Nov. 11); Thanksgiving Day (4th Thurs. in Nov.); and Christmas Day (Dec. 25).

Although it may not appear so at first glance, there's a system to addresses in D.C., albeit a confusing one. The city is divided into the four quadrants of a compass (NW, NE, SE, SW), with the U.S. Capitol building at the center. If someone tells you to meet them at 6th and G, ask them to specify the quadrant, because there are actually four different 6th and G intersections (one per quadrant). Within each quadrant, numbered streets run north-south, and lettered streets run east-west (the letter J is skipped). The streets form a fairly simple grid -- for instance, 900 G Street NW is the intersection of 9th and G Streets in the NW quadrant of the city. Likewise, if you count the letters of the alphabet, skipping J, you can get a good approximation of an address for a numbered street or diagonal state-named avenue. For instance, 1200 Connecticut Ave. NW is close to M Street, M being the 12th letter of the alphabet if you skip J.

All the city avenues are named after U.S. states and run diagonally. If all that's too much to keep track of, you can usually find a helpful resident, police officer, or uniformed business district representative to lend a hand.

D.C. is a fairly bike-friendly city. Except for the ire provoked by the sometimes reckless local bike messengers, cars and bicycles coexist peacefully. It is best to avoid riding during rush hour, if possible. Several bicycle shops in the city that rent and repair bikes can be found in the local yellow pages.

On weekends and holidays, sections of Rock Creek Park are closed to motorists, making it safe for bikers, rollerbladers, and walkers alike. Also, during non-rush hours (all times except weekdays 7 AM-10 AM and 4 PM-7 PM) the Metro system allows riders to bring bicycles aboard the last car of trains. Bicycles are not allowed on the Metro on days when large crowds are expected, such as the Fourth of July.

The Washington Area Bicyclists Association (PHONE: 202/628-2500, www.waba.org) has information on local bike laws, where to ride, and maps of bike trails on its Web site.

The red, white, and blue Washington Metropolitan Area Transit Authority (WMATA) (WMATA; PHONE: 202/637-7000; 202/638-3780 TDD, www.metroopensdoors.com) Metrobuses crisscross the city and nearby suburbs.

All bus rides within the District are $1.10. All-day passes are available on the bus for $2.50. Buses require either exact change or tokens available for purchase inside the Metro Center train station sales office, open weekdays from 7:30 AM to 6:30 PM.

Free bus-to-bus transfers, good for two hours, are available on buses. In Metro stations, rail-to-bus transfers must be picked up before boarding the train. There is a transfer charge (25¢ on regular Metrobus routes and $1.15 on express routes) when boarding the bus. Transfers are free for senior citizens. There are no bus-to-rail transfers.

Complete bus and Metro maps for the metropolitan D.C. area, which note museums, monuments, theaters, and parks, can be purchased for $1.50 at Metro Center or map stores. Call the WMATA for schedule and route information. It's open weekdays 6 AM to 10:30 PM, and weekends 8 AM to 10:30 PM.

A car is often a drawback in Washington. Traffic is horrendous, especially at rush hours, and driving is often confusing, with many lanes and some entire streets changing direction suddenly during rush hour. Even longtime residents carry maps in their cars to help navigate confusing traffic circles and randomly arranged one-way streets. The traffic lights stymie some visitors; most lights don't hang down over the middle of the streets but stand at the sides of intersections.

Bookstores, gas stations, convenience stores, and rest stops sell maps (about $3) and multiregion road atlases (about $10).

Car Rentals

Rates in Washington, D.C., begin at $25 a day and $131 a week for an economy car with air-conditioning, automatic transmission, and unlimited mileage. This does not include tax on car rentals, which is 8%-11.5% depending on the place from which you're renting, or any airport facility fees.

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633; 020/8759-6200 in the United Kingdom; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 020/8897-0811 in the United Kingdom; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Enterprise (PHONE: 800/325-8007; www.enterprise.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; www.hertz.com).

National (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom; www.nationalcar.com).

Gasoline

In the D.C. area, gasoline costs $1.40-$2 a gallon. Most gas stations stay open late (24 hours along large highways and in big cities), except in rural areas, where Sunday hours are limited and where you may drive long stretches without a refueling opportunity.

Parking

Parking in Washington is an adventure; the police are quick to tow away or immobilize with a "boot" any vehicle parked illegally. (If you find you've been towed from a city street, call tel. 202/727-5000 or log on to www.dmv.washingtondc.gov.) Since the city's most popular sights are within a short walk of a Metro station anyway, it's best to leave your car at the hotel. Touring by car is a good idea only for visiting sights in Maryland or Virginia.

Most of the outlying, suburban Metro stations have parking lots, though these fill quickly with city-bound commuters. If you plan to park in one of these lots, arrive early, armed with lots of quarters.

Private parking lots downtown often charge around $5 an hour and $20 a day. There's free, three-hour parking around the Mall on Jefferson, Madison, and Ohio drives, though these spots are almost always filled. You can park free -- in some spots all day -- in parking areas off Ohio Drive near the Jefferson Memorial and south of the Lincoln Memorial on Ohio Drive and West Basin Drive in West Potomac Park.

Requirements

In Washington you must be 25 to rent a car, although some companies allow employees of major corporations to rent at a younger age.

Road Conditions

Highways are well paved. The fastest routes are interstate highways -- limited-access, multilane roads whose numbers are prefixed by "I-." Interstates with three-digit numbers encircle urban areas, which may have other limited-access expressways, freeways, and parkways as well. Tolls may be levied on limited-access highways. So-called U.S. highways and state highways are not necessarily limited-access but may have several lanes.

Along larger highways, roadside stops with rest rooms, fast-food restaurants, and sundries stores are well spaced. State police and tow trucks patrol major highways and lend assistance. If your car breaks down on an interstate, pull onto the shoulder or as far off the road as possible and wait for help. Put your hazard lights on and, if possible, set up flares or reflecting triangles about 100 ft behind your car. Note your location on the small green roadside mileage markers. If you have a cell phone, call for help right away.

Rules of the Road

The speed limit on interstate highways ranges from 65 to 70 mph, as indicated, unless otherwise posted.

Unless otherwise indicated by a sign, right turns at red lights are allowed in D.C. All passengers are required to wear a seat belt. Infants up to 1 year of age and under 20 pounds must be strapped into a rear-facing car seat in the back seat. Children both over age 1 and weighing 20 to 40 pounds must also use a car seat in the back seat, though it can face the front. Children cannot sit in the front seat of a car until they are at least 4 years old and weigh over 80 pounds.

During rush hour (6-9 AM and 4-7 PM), HOV (high-occupancy vehicles) lanes on I-395 and I-95 are reserved for cars with three or more persons. All the lanes of I-66 inside the beltway are reserved for cars carrying two or more during rush hour, as are some of the lanes on the Dulles Toll Road and on I-270.

Radar detectors are illegal in Washington, D.C., and Virginia.

The Washington Metropolitan Area Transit Authority (WMATA) (PHONE: 202/637-7000; 202/628-8973; 202/638-3780 TDD) provides bus and subway service in the District and in the Maryland and Virginia suburbs. The Metro, opened in 1976, is one of the country's cleanest and safest subway systems.

Fares and Schedules

Trains generally run Monday through Thursday 5:30 AM-midnight, Friday and Saturday 8 AM-2 AM, and Sunday 8 AM-midnight. On Friday and Saturday, some train service ends slightly before 2 AM, so you should plan to arrive at least 10 minutes before the last train is scheduled to leave. During the weekday rush hours (5:30-9:30 AM and 3-7 PM), trains come along every six minutes. At other times and on weekends and holidays, trains run about every 12-15 minutes. The base fare is $1.10; the actual price you pay depends on the time of day and the distance traveled. Children under age five ride free when accompanied by a paying passenger, and there is a maximum of two children per paying adult.

Buy your ticket at the Farecard machines; they accept coins and crisp $1, $5, $10, or $20 bills. If the machine spits your bill back out at you, try folding and unfolding it lengthwise before asking a native for help. The Farecard should be inserted into the turnstile to enter the platform. Make sure you hang onto the card -- you'll need it to exit at your destination.

Some Washingtonians report that the Farecard's magnetic strip interferes with the strips on ATM cards and credit cards, so keep the cards separated in your pocket or wallet.

Discount Passes

For $5 you can buy a pass that allows unlimited trips for one day. It's good all day on weekends, holidays, and after 9:30 AM on weekdays. Passes are available at Metro stations and at many hotels, banks, and Safeway and Giant grocery stores.

Taxis in the District are not metered; they operate instead on a zone system. Before you set off, ask your cab driver how much the fare will be. The basic single rate for traveling within one zone is $4. There is an extra $1.50 charge for each additional passenger and a $1 surcharge during the 7-9:30 AM and 4-6:30 PM rush hours. Bulky suitcases are charged at a higher rate, and a $1.50 surcharge is tacked on when you phone for a cab. Maryland and Virginia taxis are metered but are not allowed to take passengers between points in D.C.

Taxi Companies

Diamond Cab (PHONE: 202/332-6200).

Taxi Transportation (PHONE: 202/398-0505) is an affiliation of 14 cab companies.

Yellow Cab (PHONE: 202/544-1212).