Sea lions bask in the sun by Pier 39's shops at Fisherman's Wharf. Nearby, Ghirardelli Square's chocolate factory gives a taste of the sweet life. At Pier 33, boats depart for Alcatraz. The city and Golden Gate Bridge gleam atop Coit Tower on Telegraph Hill. Literature thrives at the famed City Lights book store in North Beach. Washington Square Park is the heart of this historic Italian enclave.