Timewarp - Edwardian elegance meets Soviet severity
Posted Nov 1, 2011
The reception staff were friendly throughout our visit, but their miserable cousins in the restaurant/breakfast room reminded us we were in a Baltic country. Our bedroom (double, with single bed for our 11 year old son) was huge, with wooden floor and floor to ceiling French windows & balcony. Strange oval pod shaped shower room protruded into our room, and there was no hot water on the first night, but otherwise the facilities were great. The drunk patriot marching up and down outside at 4.30 - 5.30am singing what sounded like the national anthem was not the fault of the hotel management, but the loud drunken argument the following night in the hotel foyer presumably was. We were expecting to see blue lights at the window at any moment, but eventually peace broke out. Breakfast was huge, varied and somewhat bizarre to Western European tastes - 1970s style canapes, with piped fishy goo on ritz-type biscuits, roast potatoes, frankfurters, barley gruel, pepper and onion salad, but also toast, smoked salmon, cereals, soused herring. The old town was a good 15 mins walk, through modern but attractive tree-lined shopping streets down towards river. A fascinating city, cheaper but not as pretty as Vilnius.