Su Leunaxiu - A beautiful taste of sardinia
Posted Apr 18, 2012 on Hotels
Having hired a motorbike in cagliari it took my girlfriend and i a little while to find the main road ss 387 north towards Dolianova, however on arrival we met Guiseppe, the 'grandfather' of the house and were immediately treated to the best go'dam cake and coffee we have ever tasted. Just for reference, google maps says turn left at SS13 (a number they use to indicate how far down the road you are) its actually SS14 and there is a big blue sign that says Su Leunaxiu on the left. Duh.
Your room is small but on suite and very lovely, plenty of blankets, big shower, loads of towels, toilet paper, little magazine and a little tv that you won't use (all shows in italian anyway, and dubbed from english, urgh).
Outside is a small porch you can sit and sip wine (you will most likely be drinking loads of that) and enjoy the view whilst reading that book you have been putting off for ages. Guiseppes family is really nice and his daughter speaks enough English to help out if you need it.
The house is actually a farm/hotel - meaning the family living there grow all their own vegetables used for cooking. Cheese, wine and meet is traded with other local farms. Dinner is available on request and an awesome 6 course meal with wine only cost a few extra (keep in mind this may change)! Breakfast is also available for a few extra euros, and Jesus Cheesecake Christo is it recommended (for the oranges alone, and they have pudding with breakfast, seriously it was this long airy cake thing - AMazing).
You are treated to a tour of the farm, filled with cacti and giant awesome plants, vegetables and cats and dogs and other bits and bobs. You can taste some of the stuff he grows, (especially the tomatoes those bad boys go down like apples in the end).
They have a large restaurant area specifically built for clients, and a large common area outside with a benches and a fire place in the middle. Although Guiseppe only speaks a little bit of English, you can tell he has had English speaking customers before, his gesticulations and mannerisms are easy to understand. However I recommend picking up a decent guidebook for some handy phrases, italian is quite phonetic so its not hard to learn. Give it a go, italians are more, lets say forgiving, then the French.
It took us on average 20 mins to get into Cagliari central after learning the road, which to be honest was just pretty much straight forward on SS 387. Getting back could be tricky because for some reason the Italians LOVE using one way roads, easy enough though. If you hire a motorbike, keep in mind that italians aren't the best drivers in the world and will try and pass you on the inside and outside of your lane. If you're from the UK, aim your wheel to fit the track of the left wheel of the car in front, that should make sure they pass you they would another car. Your welcome.
The bike hire company we used was CarBusTec in Cagliari and they are also recommended. They didn't rip us off, gave us 100 km a day limit and spoke English.
We drove all the way west to a mountain peak, the name of which escapes me but the view was crazy. Cruising on the bike in the sun with a babe on the back and the wind gently blowing the smell of the sea in your face has to be the best feeling I have every had. Because the island is quite smal;l 4 days with 400 km will literally take you anywhere you want to go and back. Make sure you get an up to date map as there has been major road work lately laying down new motorways.
Guiseppe will recommend cafe's or restaurants if you want to go out one night (but seriously just eat his cooking its SO good, he did this thing with mushrooms and parmesan that blew my go'dam mind).
All in all an amazing holiday at an amazing place with (you guessed it) amazing people.
Just go there.