

Seeking the northern lights in Tromsø
Chase the spirits of galloping Valkyrie warriors with a northern lights trip to this comparatively mild corner of Norway
About Tromsø, Norway
Languages: Norwegian, Sami
Time zone: UTC+1 (CET)
Currency: Norwegian krone (NOK)
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The spectral lights of the aurora borealis have enthralled and mystified people living beneath them for centuries. In Norway, the Vikings believed that the glowing swirls were reflections shining off the armor of the Valkyries—female warriors on horseback—as they took fallen warriors away to the chief Viking god Odin.

The Valkyries would have galloped above Tromsø regularly from September to early April, when dark skies return to the area, which sits 217 miles above the Arctic Circle and in summer has 24 hours of daylight.
Thanks to the Gulf Stream, Tromsø offers much warmer watching than a lot of other aurora capitals: Average winter temperatures here only dip to a relatively balmy 25 F. Plus, the polar nights between late November and late January will really max out your chances of seeing the sky’s hypnotic show—and times perfectly with whale-watching season when humpbacks and orcas turn up to feed on spawning herring just off shore.
While it’s possible to see the aurora from downtown Tromsø when activity is high (take the cable car up Mount Storsteinen for the best view), getting away from the city’s light pollution will make any aurora appear even brighter. This part of northern Norway has plenty of dramatic scenery to make for a bucket-list-worthy backdrop. A popular choice is the village of Ersfjordbotn, about 35 minutes from Tromsø.
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Your Tromsø itinerary

Day 1
Where to stay
Near the airport, Moxy Tromsø opened in June 2023 and is an affordable option, with a buzzy top-floor Sky Bar. Down by the harbor, the sleek, contemporary Clarion Hotel The Edge has views across to the Arctic Cathedral. Or take a 90-minute scenic drive outside Tromsø to Cam Tamok and Tromsø Ice Domes, where you can stay overnight.
Sweat it out
Heat up at floating sauna Pust in the harbor, before a polar plunge. Its café also serves up healthy brunch bowls and beetroot lattes.
Rove with reindeer
The historically nomadic Sami people have herded reindeer across the tundra of the far north of Norway for centuries. Discover more about their way of life on a reindeer-sledding tour led by a Sami guide—with a traditional meal and joik (Sami songs) around the fire in the lavvu (tent, pictured).
Chase the northern lights by boat
Seek the aurora in style with a yacht cruise through the fjords and snow-covered mountains—hot tub and dinner included.

Day 2
Have a whale of a time
In winter, pods of humpback and orca whales migrate towards the fjords off Skjervøy, north of Tromsø. Get up close as they hunt for herring with a whale-watching trip (pictured) on a quiet hybrid-electric boat.
Soak up local culture
Spend the afternoon museum-hopping from modern art at Nordnorsk Kunstmuseum to the history of Arctic exploration at the Polar Museum.
A menu less ordinary
Tuck into reindeer steak or local speciality klippfisk (dried and salted cod) at Bardus, which is also known for its Arctic seaweed cocktails.
Look for the lights
Take a northern lights-chasing tour for the chance of another sighting of the magical aurora.

Day 3
Coffee time
Wake up with a cappuccino and cinnamon roll from hit local coffee bar Risø.
Snowshoes, on
Explore nearby Kvaløya island and spot reindeer and moose as you snowshoe with an expert guide.
Enjoy a long lunch
Down by the docks, Maskinverkstedet’s industrial-style building was once used for boat repairs. Now it tinkers with plates of mussels or a “worker’s lunch” of fried potatoes with onions, bacon, and Vervet sausages.
Shop for local specialties
The deli at Mathallen sells the finest Arctic ingredients, which are also dished up on its restaurant’s innovative menu.
Aurora-spotting highs
The Fjellheisen cable car (pictured) whizzes 1,378 feet up the side of Storsteinen mountain in less than five minutes. During the day it gives a bird’s-eye view of the city and surrounding fjords; at night, it’s the top spot in town to see the northern lights (and open until midnight).
Aside from the aurora, this is the gateway to Norway’s far north and offers a blizzard of icy activities, from snowshoeing to cross-country skiing, reindeer sledding to ice bathing. With its quaint, colorful wooden houses, Tromsø itself is undeniably pretty, but there’s an unexpected cultural edge, too.
Check out the striking, triangular Jan Inge Hovig-designed Arctic Cathedral (keep an eye on the calendar for concerts), plus art galleries, and numerous festivals—Tromsø International Film Festival and the jazz, classical and electronic music Northern Lights Festival both pop up in January. Plenty, in other words, to make this a brilliant winter break whether the elusive northern lights decide to show up for the party or not.
Your need-to-know
What are the northern lights?
Otherwise known as the aurora borealis, the dancing ribbons of green, red and pink light are the result of electrically charged gas particles from the sun, blown towards Earth as solar winds, colliding with our atmosphere. These charged electrons and protons are attracted to North and South Poles, and are most likely to appear in bands around each pole, called the auroral oval.
The geomagnetic activity is measured by the Kp index; the higher the number equals a higher chance of seeing the lights. Anything above three is ideal.
Northern lights season in Tromsø
The best months to see the northern lights in Norway are from September until late April, when the night’s sky is dark enough.
To maximize the chance of seeing even the faintest aurora look at the lunar cycle and aim for around a new moon for the inkiest nights.
How to see them
Before you head out, check Norway Lights’s aurora forecast or download their app.
There are plenty of Tromsø northern lights tours. Or if you’re going it alone, the area comes under the auroral oval from about 6pm to 2am; head away from the city lights to somewhere like Prestvannet or up Mount Storsteinen. Visit Tromsø has a number of useful downloadable maps.
What to pack
Any Arctic pro will tell you layers are key, even with Tromsø’s relatively milder chill: Add a thermal base layer (wool is best), and a parka and snow pants on top of your clothes. Tuck wool socks under waterproof winter boots and don’t forget a hat, scarf, and thick gloves.
A headlamp is also handy for walking in the dark and adjusting camera settings.
To get the best photographs, use a tripod and manual camera (set to the highest ISO setting, lowest aperture, and a longer shutter speed). If you’ve only got a smartphone, apps such as NightCap Camera (coupled with a tripod) can help your phone capture the aurora. Read our expert guide here.

Fiona Kerr
Writer
Fiona Kerr is a food-loving travel journalist and former features director at Condé Nast Traveller. Her writing has appeared in The Guardian, The Telegraph, Elle Decoration and the The New York Times. When she gets to a new country, her first stop is usually the local supermarket.

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