Seeking the northern lights in Yellowknife
Rich Indigenous culture, clear weather, and a perfect location make this Canadian city a great place to see the aurora borealis
On the north shore of the deepest lake in North America, Canada’s Yellowknife is a frontier town in every sense. Built during the 1930s gold rush, its Old Town—featuring the superbly named, proudly unpaved Ragged Ass Road—still has a charmingly ramshackle, prospector vibe, with log cabins next to mansions looking out to brightly painted houseboats.
Today people flock to the capital of Canada’s Northwest Territories for the prospect of lights, not gold.
Yellowknife’s remoteness, coupled with its perfect 62 degrees north latitude under the auroral oval (the band around the magnetic poles where the aurora borealis most reliably appear) and remarkably clear weather (it’s in the rain shadow of the mountain ranges to the west) means that it’s one of the best places in North America to see the northern lights.
It might be a once-in-a-lifetime sighting for many travelers, but nature’s most spectacular show is visible here some 240 nights a year.
So where to see the northern lights in Yellowknife? With a population of only around 20,000, the town itself has relatively low light pollution, and on a good night the aurora can be spotted from Bush Pilots Monument or Parker Park without even leaving town. But for the most awe-inspiring, wide-screen views it’s best to venture a bit further, either aurora-chasing under your own steam (head east down the Ingraham Trail to the parking lot at Prosperous Lake), with an organized northern lights tour, or in front-row-seat comfort at the likes of Aboriginal-owned Aurora Village.
Your need-to-know
What are the northern lights?
Otherwise known as the aurora borealis, the dancing ribbons of green, red, and pink light are the result of electrically charged gas particles from the sun, blown towards Earth as solar winds, colliding with our atmosphere. These charged electrons and protons are attracted to North and South Poles, and are most likely to appear in bands around each pole, called the auroral oval.
The geomagnetic activity is measured by the Kp index; the higher the number equals a higher chance of seeing the lights. Anything above three is ideal.
Northern lights season in Yellowknife
Aurora sightings in Yellowknife stretch from the middle of August to the end of April, but peak around the fall and spring equinoxes in September and March. To maximize the chance of spotting even the faintest aurora, look at the lunar cycle and aim for around a new moon for the inkiest nights.
How to see them
On the ground, keep track of the aurora forecast with Aurora Max or Astronomy North.
If going out DIY aurora hunting, head for somewhere with a open view of the northern horizon. The safe aurora viewing map pinpoints the best places nearby.
What to pack
Any Arctic pro will tell you layers are key, especially when temperatures in Yellowknife can dip below minus 20 F. Add a thermal base layer (wool is best), and winter parka and snow pants on top of your clothes.
Wear a couple of pairs of wool socks with waterproof boots and don’t forget a hat, gloves and face covering; you’ll want every inch of skin covered at night. Many tour operators in town rent out winter gear. A headlamp is also handy for walking in the dark and adjusting camera settings.
To get the best photographs, use a tripod and manual camera (set to the highest ISO setting, lowest aperture, and a longer shutter speed). If you’ve only got a smartphone, apps such as NightCap Camera (coupled with a tripod) can help your phone capture the aurora. Read our expert guide here.
This area is the traditional lands of the Yellowknives Dene First Nation, and in the Denesułine language the northern lights are called ya’ke n’gas, which translates as “the sky is stirring.” The aurora means different things to the distinct groups of Indigenous people here, but to some the lights are a sign from loved ones who have died, believed to be dancing in the sky.
Whether looking up or not, getting outdoors is the big draw here, from snowmobiling and ice fishing to dog sledding and riding along the ice roads; in winter the frozen lakes are so thick you can drive across them. In March, a giant snow castle complete with ice slides pops up on Great Slave Lake for the month-long Snowkings’ Winter Festival. This is a wild winter wonderland.
Chasing the northern lights with the “Aurora Hunter”
Your Yellowknife itinerary
Day 1
Where to stay
The classic Explorer Hotel downtown is where the late Queen Elizabeth II, King Charles and Prince William all stayed when visiting the Northwest Territories, while Chateau Nova is just a four-minute walk from the Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Centre.
11 a.m.
Begin with brunch
Once you’re all checked in, head to Birchwood Coffee Kǫ̀ downtown for a bannock (pan-fried local bread) and egger breakfast sandwich.
1 p.m.
Saddle up for sightseeing
Loop past Yellowknife’s first log cabin bank, up to Bush Pilot’s Monument and see colorful houseboats frozen into Yellowknife Bay (pictured) on a five-inch tire fat bike tour around town.
6 p.m.
Dine the Canadian way
NWT Brewing Co dishes up beer-brined chicken wings and rich cheesy poutine alongside craft porters, pale ales, and sours at its brewpub The Woodyard.
9:30 p.m.
Snuggle up to watch the skies
Watch the aurora borealis’s mesmerizing show from a cozy cabin—there’s a midnight snack of local fish chowder and hot fresh bannock while the sky glows.
Day 2
10 a.m.
Set off on a snowy safari
Zoom into Yellowknife’s wide white horizon with a snowmobile tour (pictured) across frozen lakes and through forest trails.
1 p.m.
Warm up, fuel up
Order the German-style schnitzel in mushroom sauce at the homelike Elke’s Table.
3 p.m.
Immerse yourself in culture
Discover the area’s rich craft traditions at the Old Town Glassworks and the Gallery of the Midnight Sun, filled with Inuit sculpture and Dene art.
6 p.m.
Feast on local fish
Tuck into the freshest fish and chips at Bullocks Bistro, in a log cabin on the shores of Great Slave Lake. Try local pickerel, Arctic char, or lake trout.
9 p.m.
Now for the northern lights…
Smudges of green may be visible as soon as the sun sets, but 10pm–2am is the best time to be aurora hunting. Even better, join a tour, which stops at a number of photo-worthy spots.
Day 3
10 a.m.
Get hooked on ice fishing
Rent a log fire-heated shack on one of the frozen lakes to try your luck ice-fishing for monster pikes (pictured).
1 p.m.
Lunch like a local
Warm up with a bison burger at local favorite The Black Knight pub.
3 p.m.
Load up on history
Trace the story of the people of the Northwest Territories at the Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Centre.
3 p.m.
Load up on history
Trace the story of the people of the Northwest Territories at the Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Centre.
Fiona Kerr is a food-loving travel journalist and former features director at Condé Nast Traveller. Her writing has appeared in The Guardian, The Telegraph, Elle Decoration and The New York Times. When she gets to a new country, her first stop is usually the local supermarket.
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