“Right beside the Porto Moniz natural pools, so you can be swimming in volcanic rock basins two minutes after breakfast. Rooms face the water and the sunsets here are the reason to stay rather than day-trip. The obvious base if you're hiking the northwest or want Fanal at first light.”

“Small valley hotel in Sao Vicente, in the middle of the island's north side and within easy reach of Fanal, Seixal and the Caldeirao Verde trailhead. Quiet, green, and much cheaper than the equivalent on the south coast. Good option if you're splitting your trip and want a genuinely different feel for a few nights.”

“A quiet countryside manor in Boaventura on the north coast, a few minutes from the São Vicente caves. 27 rooms with garden views, an indoor pool, sauna, and jacuzzi for cooler days, plus a garden terrace and lounge bar. Simple, peaceful, and a great base for hiking the volcanic north.”

“A four-star on the north coast at Ponta Delgada, set in open country above the Atlantic with the Laurissilva forest behind. Quiet in a way the south coast never is, and well placed for Seixal, São Vicente and the Caldeirão Verde trailhead. The Ponta Delgada bathing complex — two saltwater pools in a protected bay — is right there.”

“A cliff-edge quinta near Santana surrounded by working vineyards, with the Atlantic straight below and Pico Ruivo behind. The most atmospheric stay on the north coast, and unbeatably placed for Caldeirao Verde, the Santana houses and Rocha do Navio. Rural quiet, so bring dinner plans or eat on site.”