A cultural guide to Paris

While many come for the history and romance of Paris, the French capital’s dynamic cultural scene is now an equally powerful draw—a full immersion in the very latest trends in contemporary art, cutting-edge fashion, and award-winning gastronomy. Post-Brexit, Paris has been energized as Europe’s undisputed culture hub, drawing visitors from near and far, even as nationwide underlying social tensions often play out as strikes or protests. The cityscape, too, is evolving at a pace: Reshaped by the eco-conscious mayor, Anne Hidalgo, it is being converted into one of the most bike-friendly in the world, while the Seine is being cleaned up in time for the triathlon event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.  

Food & drink

Long gone are the days of stuffy dining and uncivil table service: The Paris food scene has completely transformed over the past decade thanks to an influx of younger talent, many from abroad. Sidestepping traditional menu stalwarts and the model of entrée, plat, and dessert, the neo-bistro—smaller venues offering seasonal shared plates and a dynamic wine list—now reigns supreme. This model encompasses more casual affairs like Recoin in the 11th arrondissement, and more elevated offerings, such as Basque chef Iñaki Aizpitarte’s Le Chateaubriand.

In the summer months, secure a spot at the bar (no tables, no reservations) of Les Enfants du Marché, a low-key looking lunch spot serving seafood-driven fare paired with natural wines in an open-air food market in the Marais. At aperitif hour, head to Folderol for artisanal ice cream and wine, but for a little old-school glamour, the Hotel Costes underwent a recent revamp, and the Bar Hemingway at the Ritz will never lose its gloss.  

Hot ticket

Don’t miss the Bourse de Commerce—Pinault Collection, a revolving curation of luxury magnate François Pinault’s contemporary art collection, including works by visionaries such as Cy Twombly, Judy Chicago, and Maurizio Cattelan. The museum is housed in a former 20th-century trade building, with interiors redesigned by the avant-garde Japanese architect Tadao Ando. It’s worth checking out for the architectural tour alone, which covers four centuries of work, and while exhibits are ever-changing, there are some more permanent and surprising in-situ works like Ryan Gander’s lifelike animatronic mouse, which is nestled in a hole in the wall next to one of the elevators.