A cultural guide to Beijing

Many cities offer a mix of old and new, but Beijing’s old isn’t just old—it’s truly ancient. The Chinese capital’s history stretches back more than 3,000 years, ranking it as one of the world’s oldest cities. Fast-forward to today, though, and it’s a seemingly boundless, thoroughly modern metropolis of more than 20 million inhabitants.  

History buffs will naturally be in their element as the city’s heritage is palpable. The streets radiate out from where the emperor once ruled at his seat in the Forbidden City, and rush hour traffic snakes along the Second Ring Road, which runs close to where the old city walls once stood.  

But present-day Beijing offers much more than memories of the past. The city is sprawling, so plan enough time to experience life beyond just a checklist of historical sites and you’ll find chic cafés and modern teahouses, a fervent underground music scene and young chefs reimagining Chinese cuisine. 

Art & architecture

Begin your Beijing experience where it all started: the hutongs. These narrow alleyways comprise the core of modern Beijing and are the city’s oldest streets, dating back to the 13th century. They offer the capital at its most atmospheric—the clanging bells of tofu sellers, the bustling storefronts, the traditional single-story courtyard homes with their gray clay tiled roofs—plus hip cafés and indie boutiques are sprinkled in. Wander Wudaoying, Guozijian and Baochao hutongs just south of the Second Ring Road for a particularly charming stroll, or book a tour to sample the enclave’s best food and beer. 

Old and new collide in the city’s architecture. The Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven, and Summer Palace will transport you back to the imperial era, while modern architectural icons from the pre-2008 building frenzy have all earned descriptive nicknames, like the “Giant Egg” (the National Center for the Performing Arts), the “Bird’s Nest” (Beijing National Stadium), and the “Big Pants” (China Central Television’s headquarters). 

Beijing has long been at the forefront of China’s contemporary art scene, starting in the 1980s with avant-garde art movement 85 New Wave. An afternoon is easily passed in the city’s 798 Art District, a former state-run electronics factory where artist studios and galleries, both international and local, populate the Bauhaus-style buildings. Don’t miss UCCA Beijing with its consistently excellent exhibitions and equally excellent shop.  

World-class dining is also on the table, with Michelin-rated and Asia’s 50 Best-recognized restaurants putting a Beijing spin on haute cuisine. Refined plant-based oasis Lamdre champions Chinese ingredients and flavors, while the young chef at Ling Long is reimagining modern Chinese cooking with artfully presented plates. 

And of course you can’t leave Beijing without trying crispy-skinned Peking duck. For an upscale experience Sheng Yong Xing has an out-of-this-world rendition, or try The Opposite House’s chic contemporary Chinese restaurant Jing Yaa Tang. In humbler hutong digs, Liqun Roast Duck offers atmospheric charm and Beijing’s typically gruff hospitality.  

Hot ticket

The Great Wall is on almost every Beijing visitor’s list, as it should be. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site and considered one of the seven wonders of the world, this series of ancient fortifications stretches over 13,000 miles across 15 provinces, and parts of it date back 2,500 years.

Different sections of the wall offer different experiences, with restored and unrestored areas. The reconstructed Badaling is the most popular with domestic tourists—expect a sea of people at almost all times. Another reconstructed area, Mutianyu, offers significantly less frantic, but still accessible access to the Wall. While popular, any crowds will begin to thin out as you clamber up and down enough of the Wall’s stairs, and a cable car up and toboggan run down make it a good choice for groups of all ages. Avid hikers can take in the stunning vistas of “wild wall” sections like Jiankou, Jingshanling and Simatai with day trips or multi-day trekking adventures. 

Watch before you go

Get a rare glimpse into life in the capital just before China opened up to the West by watching Michelangelo Antonioni’s 1972 Chung Kuo—Cina, a masterful documentary with views of Tiananmen Square, the Temple of Heaven and Wangfujing. Fifteen years later, The Last Emperor, directed by Bernardo Bertolucci and based on the autobiography of Puyi, who ruled in the early 20th century, became the first Western feature film to be shot inside the Forbidden City. Wang Xiaoshuai’s 2001 indie flick Beijing Bicycle tours you through the city’s hutongs as the protagonist races through the narrow alleyways and backstreets. 

Music

Beijing has led the charge for China’s underground music scene since the mid-2000s. Venues have come, gone and moved over the years, but the scene’s spirit has survived. Catch a punk-rock show at Beijing institution School or indie rock at Dawn Dusk Club (DDC). For experimental music, head to Fruityspace. Looking to dance? Alternative clubs Dada and Zhaodai curate excellent, eclectic rosters of local and international DJ talent.