A cultural guide to Mexico City

It’s hard to imagine now, but much of Mexico City’s urban sprawl was once a lake, drained by the Spanish as part of their conquest. Today, the city’s “three cultures” are literally layered on top of each other: ancient Aztec buildings below Spanish-colonial architecture, beside buildings constructed after independence in 1821.  

Art & architecture

Cover 400 years of Mexican architecture in one square block, drinks included: Start at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, which combines art nouveau, art deco and neoclassical styles, and is renowned for its murals by Diego Rivera and his contemporaries. Across the street is Correo Mayor, the central post office: Don’t mail anything (Mexico’s postal service is terrible), but do go inside to enjoy the extraordinary gilded architecture.

Down the block, head up to the 44th floor open-air viewing platform of Torre Latino (the building may remind you of New York’s Empire State), which offers a spectacular way to orient yourself and see how Mexico’s chaotic mix of architectural history coexists. Either have a snack and a drink there, or go around the corner to the Casa de los Azulejos, a tile-encrusted baroque marvel that happens to serve very solid enchiladas. 

For contemporary galleries and other handsome buildings, visit Roma Norte (where you’ll find Maia and OMR), and San Miguel Chapultepec (for Kurimanzutto, JO-HS and more). Meanwhile, architecture and design fans should add Casa Luis Barragán in Colonia Ampliación to their itineraries. The 1948 abode served as the home and studio of Luis Barragán, the Pritzker Prize-winner who revolutionized modern architecture in Mexico by incorporating traditional elements such as bright colors and textures. And no cultural exploration of Mexico City would be complete without a visit to Casa Azul, the former home of artist-turned-pop-culture icon Frida Kahlo, now a museum. Be sure to book your tickets in advance.  

Food & drink

Mexico City has great food at every price point. Be aware that lunch is the main meal of the day (some restaurants don’t open for dinner) and tends to start at 2–3 p.m. For street tacos, try suadero (brisket slow-cooked in lard) at Los Cocuyos, and pastor at Los Parados. If you prefer to sit while you eat, Coyoacán Market near the Frida Kahlo museum is a tourist-friendly destination with delicious food of all kinds. For a more luxurious experience, seek out Contramar for seafood and chef Enrique Olvera’s Pujol for a modernist take on cuisines from all regions of Mexico. For food that’s not really Mexican but is popular with Mexicans, try Rosetta (modern Italian in a gorgeous space) and Meroma (contemporary, eclectic, ingredient driven). 

Music

For club sounds, try Departamento (note: It gets busy), or Fünk. Live salsa can be found at venues including Mama Rumba and Salon San Luis. At the latter, keep a note of what you drink: Sometimes the waiters’ math skills are less than perfect, though the musicians are always on point. Mexico City also has several major festivals with international acts in spring and autumn, including Corona Capital, Vive Latino, and Ceremonia.