Seeking the northern lights in Reykjavik
Add fine dining, world-class hotels, and inviting hot springs to your northern lights itinerary in Iceland’s capital
Over the last decade or so, Iceland has become the poster child for adventure travel thanks to its mind-bending landscapes: simmering volcanoes, immense glaciers, rainbow-colored mountains, and giant ice caves. It’s not for nothing that it’s nicknamed the “land of fire and ice.” But between September and early April, what happens in the sky above is just as dramatic: Nature’s stunning light show erupts in green, pink, and red across the darkness.
Iceland’s pocket-sized capital, Reykjavik, is an all-around fantastic base on the island. Not only is it home to sharp design stores, punching-above-their-weight cultural institutions, and a head-turning food scene, it’s also the jumping-off point for the Golden Circle.
This 190-mile geological greatest-hits loop runs past the Gullfoss waterfall, Great Geysir and otherworldly Thingvellir National Park where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates have been slowing pulling apart over millions of years—and can be driven in about three hours, although allow extra time for stops.
On the nearby Reykjanes Peninsula, the Blue Lagoon is another bucket-list ticker, its silica-rich geothermal waters glowing luminous milky blue amid moss-covered lava fields. It’s open until 10 p.m. during northern lights season, so you might even catch nature’s most awe-inspiring show while floating beneath the starry sky.
Icelandic folklore claimed that the aurora borealis would relieve the pain of childbirth—although if the mother-to-be looked at the lights, her child would be born cross-eyed. Today, there is no shortage of much less strenuous ways to enjoy the lights: by yacht, from the infinity pool of Reykjavik’s futuristic Sky Lagoon, or even dressed as a Viking.
Your need-to-know
What are the northern lights?
Otherwise known as the aurora borealis, the dancing ribbons of green, red, and pink light are the result of electrically charged gas particles from the sun, blown towards Earth as solar winds, colliding with our atmosphere. These charged electrons and protons are attracted to North and South Poles, and are most likely to appear in bands around each pole, called the auroral oval.
The geomagnetic activity is measured by the Kp index; the higher the number equals a higher chance of seeing the lights. Anything above three is ideal.
Northern lights season in Reykjavik
The best time to visit Iceland for the northern lights is from September until early April. Displays are at their peak around the fall and spring equinoxes in September and March. This also avoids the country’s most volatile weather between December to February.
To maximize the chance of seeing even the faintest aurora, look at the lunar cycle and aim for around a new moon for the inkiest nights.
How to see them
Keep an eye on the Icelandic Met Office’s aurora forecast and download the Icelandic-developed Hello Aurora app.
To see the northern lights over Reykjavik itself, try one of the city’s parks, the top of Öskjuhlíð Hill, or out at the Grótta lighthouse at the tip of the Seltjarnarnes peninsula. A short drive away, the Thingvellir National Park or Lake Kleifarvatn—where the glassy surface makes for beautiful photographs of the reflected lights—are scenic aurora-spotting stops.
What to pack
Reykjavik is kept warmer than its latitudinal neighbors thanks to the Gulf Stream. Still, you’ll want to pack thermal base layers (wool is best), a parka and snow pants if you are outside aurora-chasing. Add waterproof winter boots and a hat, scarf and thick gloves too. A headlamp is also handy for walking in the dark and adjusting camera settings.
To get the best photographs, use a tripod and manual camera (set to the highest ISO setting, lowest aperture and a longer shutter speed). If you’ve only got a smartphone, apps such as NightCap Camera (coupled with a tripod) can help your phone capture the aurora. Read our expert guide here.
All the best aurora viewing is found away from Reykjavik’s (albeit small-scale city lights, but even heading for Laugardalur or Hljómskálagarður parks in town will be enough if activity is high.
The wooded Öskjuhlíð Hill is another popular spot, and the Seltjarnarnes peninsula is worth the extra walk for the pretty backdrop of the Grótta Lighthouse—don’t miss warming up in the hot spring Kvika Footbath while you wait for the dancing lights to appear.
Your Reykjavik itinerary
Day 1
Where to stay
For a small city, Reykjavik’s hotel scene is jam-packed, running from affordable Hotel Von on the main drag of Laugavegur, through funky, wonderfully central Canopy by Hilton Reykjavik to glossy, recently opened Reykjavik Edition, featuring all-minimalist bedrooms and a restaurant run by Dill chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason—the striking Harpa concert hall is right next door.
8 a.m.
See the sights
Check off some of Iceland’s headline sights, including the Gullfoss waterfall (pictured), with a Golden Circle tour, finishing with a floating massage at the Blue Lagoon.
7 p.m.
Stop off for street eats
Back in town, grab an Anthony Bourdain-approved hot dog at one of the Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur stands.
8 p.m.
See the northern lights—twice
Be immersed in the story of the northern lights at the Perlan museum’s planetarium at the top of Öskjuhlíð Hill, before stepping outside and trying to catch the real thing.
Day 2
9 a.m.
Be a culture vulture
Pick up a coffee at Mokka to fuel a culture-hopping morning taking in the Hallgrímskirkja church (whose dramatic shape was inspired by basalt rock formations), harbor-front cultural hub Marshall House, and one of the three sites of the Reykjavik Art Museum.
1 p.m.
Stop off for lunch
Plant-filled Snaps Bistro dishes up classic brunch and French-inspired dishes.
3 p.m.
Peak pampering
The splashy seven-step ritual at the Sky Lagoon (pictured) oscillates hot and cold with invigorating plunge pools and body scrubs. Finish with a platter of Icelandic gravlax, beets, and pickled herring at the Smakk Bar.
9 p.m.
Seek thrills, and the lights
Give the northern lights a high-octane shot with a night-time quad bike tour beside Hafravatn lake and Mount Hafrafell.
The northern lights: Now’s the time
3 p.m.
Peak pampering
The splashy seven-step ritual at the Sky Lagoon (pictured) oscillates hot and cold with invigorating plunge pools and body scrubs. Finish with a platter of Icelandic gravlax, beets, and pickled herring at the Smakk Bar.
9 p.m.
Seek thrills, and the lights
Give the northern lights a high-octane shot with a night-time quad bike tour beside Hafravatn lake and Mount Hafrafell.
Day 3
10 a.m.
Immerse yourself in history
Take a whistle-stop ride through 1,200 years of history at The National Museum of Iceland.
12 p.m.
Sample some seafood
Try and snag a walk-ins-only table at seaside-shack restaurant Sægreifinn on Reyjavik’s Old Harbour.
2 p.m.
Shop up a storm
Founded by Sigur Rós’s frontman, Fischersund blends fragrances inspired by Iceland’s scents at its experimental apothecary. For Icelandic fashion, pop into Kiosk, then check out more local bands at label-cum-record store 12 Tónar.
6 p.m.
Fine dining, anyone?
New Nordic tasting menus have landed on Iceland, too—sample some of the best at Michelin-starred Dill or Ox restaurants (book well in advance).
9 p.m.
Call in the aurora experts
To maximize your chances of seeing the elusive aurora, join a tour (pictured) with an expert northern lights-chasing guide.
Fiona Kerr is a food-loving travel journalist and former features director at Condé Nast Traveller. Her writing has appeared in The Guardian, The Telegraph, Elle Decoration and The New York Times. When she gets to a new country, her first stop is usually the local supermarket.
Hotel deals in Reykjavik
