Seeking the northern lights in Reykjavik

Over the last decade or so, Iceland has become the poster child for adventure travel thanks to its mind-bending landscapes: simmering volcanoes, immense glaciers, rainbow-colored mountains, and giant ice caves. It’s not for nothing that it’s nicknamed the land of fire and ice. But between September and early April, what happens in the sky above is just as dramatic: Nature’s stunning light show erupts in green, pink, and red across the darkness. 

Iceland’s pocket-sized capital, Reykjavik, is an all-around fantastic base on the island. Not only is it home to sharp design stores, punching-above-their-weight cultural institutions, and a head-turning food scene, it’s also the jumping-off point for the Golden Circle.

This 190-mile geological greatest-hits loop runs past the Gullfoss waterfall, Great Geysir and otherworldly Thingvellir National Park where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates have been slowing pulling apart over millions of years—and can be driven in about three hours, although allow extra time for stops. 

On the nearby Reykjanes Peninsula, the Blue Lagoon is another bucket-list ticker, its silica-rich geothermal waters glowing luminous milky blue amid moss-covered lava fields. It’s open until 10pm during northern lights season, so you might even catch nature’s most awe-inspiring show while floating beneath the starry sky. 

Icelandic folklore claimed that the aurora borealis would relieve the pain of childbirth—although if the mother-to-be looked at the lights, her child would be born cross-eyed. Today, there is no shortage of much less strenuous ways to enjoy the lights: by yacht, from the infinity pool of Reykjavik’s futuristic Sky Lagoon, or even dressed as a Viking.

All the best aurora viewing is found away from Reykjavik’s albeit small-scale city lights, but even heading for Laugardalur or Hljómskálagarður parks in town will be enough if activity is high.

The wooded Öskjuhlíð Hill is another popular spot, and the Seltjarnarnes peninsula is worth the extra walk for the pretty backdrop of the Grótta Lighthouse—don’t miss warming up in the hot spring Kvika Footbath while you wait for the dancing lights to appear. 

Your Reykjavik itinerary

Day 1

Where to stay

For a small city, Reykjavik’s hotel scene is jam-packed, running from affordable Hotel Von on the main drag of Laugavegur, through funky, wonderfully central Canopy by Hilton Reykjavik to glossy, recently opened Reykjavik Edition, featuring all-minimalist bedrooms and a restaurant run by Dill chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason—the striking Harpa concert hall is right next door.

Hotel Von

Laugavegur 55, Reykjavik, 101

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8am

See the sights

Check off some of Iceland’s headline sights, including the Gullfoss waterfall (pictured), with a Golden Circle tour, finishing with a floating massage at the Blue Lagoon.

7pm

Stop off for street eats

Back in town, grab an Anthony Bourdain-approved hot dog at one of the Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur stands.

8pm

See the northern lights—twice

Be immersed in the story of the northern lights at the Perlan museum’s planetarium at the top of Öskjuhlíð Hill, before stepping outside and trying to catch the real thing. 

Day 2

9am

Be a culture vulture

Pick up a coffee at Mokka to fuel a culture-hopping morning taking in the Hallgrímskirkja church (whose dramatic shape was inspired by basalt rock formations), harbor-front cultural hub Marshall House, and one of the three sites of the Reykjavik Art Museum.

1pm

Stop off for lunch

Plant-filled Snaps Bistro dishes up classic brunch and French-inspired dishes. 

3pm

Peak pampering

The splashy seven-step ritual at the Sky Lagoon (pictured) oscillates hot and cold with invigorating plunge pools and body scrubs. Finish with a platter of Icelandic gravlax, beets, and pickled herring at the Smakk Bar. 

9pm

Seek thrills, and the lights

Give the northern lights a high-octane shot with a night-time quad bike tour beside Hafravatn lake and Mount Hafrafell.

Day 3

10am

Immerse yourself in history

Take a whistle-stop ride through 1,200 years of history at The National Museum of Iceland.

12pm

Sample some seafood

Try and snag a walk-ins-only table at seaside-shack restaurant Sægreifinn on Reyjavik’s Old Harbour.

2pm

Shop up a storm

Founded by Sigur Rós’s frontman, Fischersund blends fragrances inspired by Iceland’s scents at its experimental apothecary. For Icelandic fashion, pop into Kiosk, then check out more local bands at label-cum-record store 12 Tónar.

6pm

Fine dining, anyone?

New Nordic tasting menus have landed on Iceland, too—sample some of the best at Michelin-starred Dill or Ox restaurants (book well in advance). 

9pm

Call in the aurora experts

To maximize your chances of seeing the elusive aurora, join a tour (pictured) with an expert northern lights-chasing guide.

Fiona Kerr

Writer

Fiona Kerr is a food-loving travel journalist and former features director at Condé Nast Traveller. Her writing has appeared in The Guardian, The Telegraph, Elle Decoration and The New York Times. When she gets to a new country, her first stop is usually the local supermarket.