This morning-long adventure kicks off with a visit to the half-crumbling 19th-century Church of Saint Roque in Rabil – Boa Vista's second-largest town. In need of a lick of paint and simply decorated, it reflects the island's tough history. Then it's off to a ceramic factory, where you'll see the handiwork of local artisans and might be able to grab yourself a souvenir of local pottery. You'll also get to taste Cape Verde's national dish, catchupa, a rich stew of corn, beans, pork, and vegetables – through ingredients change, not just from island to island or village to village, but house to house.