Where to stay

The Shwedagon Paya is Myanmar's most famous Buddhist site and well worth a visit, but Yangon has other shrines as well. Staying nearby in Dagon Township puts many religious sites in easy reach, including the adjacent People's Park and nearby Alanpya Pagoda. Also worth a visit is the Maha Wizaya Pagoda, completed more recently in 1980. The gilded Sule Pagoda is at the heart of Yangon downtown, closer to a much wider range of places to stay, including fancy additions from five-star global chains. For easy visits in early mornings to the city's famous Chauk Htat Kyi Pagoda, home to an enormous reclining Buddha, stay in Bahan to the northeast.

Stay in the district of Pabedan in Yangon downtown to be near Myanmar's major shopping destination: Bogyoke Aung San Market. Originally built by the British, it's now the top spot to pick up souvenirs of lacquerbware, traditional longyis, wooden bowls, and precious stones. With a little searching find artisan-made fair trade crafts. Pomelo, also downtown, is a good place to shop. For a modern mall-style experience, explore Junction City just to the north. Those who want to stay a little farther from the center of the city in Mayangone will find street food and souvenir stalls around Thiri Mingala Kabar Aye Pagoda.

It's hard to keep pace with the number of new restaurants opening in Yangon. Staying in the Kandawgyi Lake Area is a good choice for scenic dining options overlooking the lake. Look for Asian dishes including Chinese dim sum. The food scene also thrives in Yangon downtown, where traditional spots serve authentic Burmese dishes alongside restaurants merging high-end farm-to-table concepts with local ingredients. Try mohinga for breakfast. Staying and eating here is a good way to sample regional dishes, such as Shan noodles, before heading off to explore the rest of the country. More local neighborhoods such as North Dagon Township are also seeing new openings including the Pinlon Hawker Centre, run by the same team behind the upscale downtown Rangoon Tea House.