By Jeff Wilser
December 2023
Between hiking and biking the Rockies’ stunning terrain, take time to explore the Mile High City’s thriving craft-beer scene, unexpected dining options, and vaunted music venues
Your essential guide to the best things to see and do in Denver. Find more travel inspiration for more amazing cities here.
Come for the skiing, stay for the culture. Denver packs the rare one-two punch of outdoorsy adventure and urban charm; it’s likely the only city in the U.S. where you can hit the slopes in the morning and then wear shorts to a rooftop brewery in the afternoon—even in winter, thanks to 300 annual days of sunshine. Here you’ll find a cheerful blend of hiking culture, foodie culture, craft beer culture, startup culture, and even counterculture.
Even from Downtown Denver, the mountains are within easy reach
From skiing to hiking, find outdoors adventures aplenty
The Mile High City—literally one mile high, at 5,280 feet of elevation—was founded in 1858 as a gold-mining town, and that spirit of optimistic “prospecting” can still be felt today. The easy access to outdoors (hiking trails abound), low-ish cost of living, and strong educational infrastructure has led to an influx of tech talent, fueling the city’s growth and turning Denver into a below-the-radar startup hub—think Austin without the hype. Meanwhile the music, food, and art scenes have quietly flourished. Locals take the idea of “work-life balance” seriously; more Fridays are spent camping or snowboarding than in conference rooms.
Denver’s Union Station, which dates back to 1881, is more than just a train station; it’s an architectural marvel with stunningly high ceilings, dripping with old-world elegance. The Denver Art Museum, designed by Daniel Libeskind, is one of the largest in the nation with more than 70,000 works, including a strong focus on Indigenous American art. But you’ll find the artistic soul of the city in the River North Art District, or “RiNo,” where the blocks are lined with murals (some five stories high), street art, and the occasional pop-up installation—the neighborhood itself is a living canvas.
Hanging out: A hike in Rocky Mountain National Park is a must
Photogenic Larimer Street, in the heart of up-and-coming RiNo
Foodies will find plenty to love. While no one cuisine is dominant, Colorado’s rich agricultural landscape yields locally sourced, farm-to-table ingredients in venues that span from upscale (such as Linger, set in a converted mortuary) to hole-in-the-wall taquerias sprinkled throughout the city (expect Colorado’s famed green chili sauce drizzled over burritos and more—it works).
From grilled cheese up, Denver’s food scene won’t disappoint
At the moment, the hottest culinary ticket is arguably the recently reopened, fully renovated Casa Bonita, a sprawling and over-the-top Mexican restaurant featuring themed rooms, puppet shows, and cliff divers who spring from a 30-foot indoor waterfall. The kitschy-cool spot was revitalized by new owners, who also happen to be the creators of the animated sitcom South Park.
To sample Native American cuisine, head to fast-casual Tocabe for fry bread, Indian tacos, and bowls based on native grains; the spot is co-owned by a member of the Osage Nation.
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Then there’s Denver’s beer—so much craft beer… Colorado was a pioneer in craft brewing, so it’s tough to walk three blocks without stumbling into a world-class brewery. For a locals-only vibe, consider Odell Brewing’s Sloan’s Lake Brewhouse, which has a rooftop patio and picturesque views of the lake at sunset. Meanwhile, Call to Arms in the Berkeley neighborhood serves solid porters, lagers, and Denver-style IPAs in its taproom and beer garden.
Ball Arena might be home to the world champion basketball team Denver Nuggets—but you could argue that the greatest feat of athleticism in the arena’s history was when Chazz Michael Michaels (Will Ferrell) and Jimmy MacElroy (Jon Heder) teamed up to pull off the Iron Lotus in 2007’s Blades of Glory.
Red Rocks Amphitheater helped put Denver on the music map
Even if you’re not catching a concert, it’s worth your time to visit Red Rocks Amphitheater, one of the most iconic music venues on the planet, which is naturally carved from the hills and flanked by dramatic red rock formations.
Anchored in part by Red Rocks (everyone from U2 to The Beatles has graced its stage), Denver has morphed into a live music hotspot; you’ll find virtually every genre—especially folk, bluegrass and jam bands—at venues like the Fillmore Auditorium, Bluebird Theater, Ogden Theatre, and Cervantes’ Other Side.
Once a bleak industrial wasteland, up-and-coming RiNo (River North Arts District) is now a hipster playground dotted with art galleries, music venues, tattoo parlors and, of course, breweries. Consider staying at The Source, which is connected to a market brimming with local food and vintage shops.
You’ll find a more upscale vibe in Cherry Creek, the city’s tree-lined residential district for boutique shopping and luxe dining. For a splurge consider The Jacquard, Autograph Collection with its rooftop pool and views of the Rockies; the Moxy Denver Cherry Creek is a solid budget-friendly alternative.
Lower Downtown is the city’s oldest neighborhood, and its red-brick buildings (some dating back to the 19th century) house a mix of breweries, restaurants and tech startups. It’s tough to top the historic charm of The Crawford Hotel, located within Union Station itself. But the most important “neighborhood” of all is arguably the nearby Rocky Mountains, which both frame the city’s skyline and invite year-round adventuring in the form of hiking, biking, kayaking, skiing, and more.
Jeff Wilser is the author of seven books, a frequent traveler (living in 24 countries in the three years to 2020), and a contributor to The New York Times, GQ, and Fast Company.