By Alex Gorton
August 2024
Its whitewashed villages and spectacular sunsets are world-famous, but this enchanting Greek island, steeped in culture and history, is far more than just a pretty face
Your essential guide to the best things to see and do in Santorini. Find more travel inspiration for more amazing cities here.
Santorini’s whitewashed villages appear to tumble into the sparkling azure of its caldera, a mostly submerged volcanic crater, making for stunning, postcard-ready views. It’s really no surprise that this small Greek island is one of the most photographed places on earth.
Formed by a volcanic eruption over 3,000 years ago, the crescent-shaped caldera runs for miles along the island’s west coast, along which towns and villages such as Fira, Oia, and Imerovigli lie. The rocky landscapes of black-sand beaches and 1,000-foot cliffs are as dramatic as its history, spanning a prehistoric Minoan civilization, 19th-century prosperity, and a 20th-century earthquake.
Meander the hidden side streets of Megalochori
The blue-domed church of Spirydon: a quintessential Santorini snapshot
These days, the main industry is tourism, with the island’s permanent population of 15,500 swelling during the summer months as more than two million visitors head to the island to party, honeymoon, and sightsee. Inevitably, it can feel slightly chaotic during peak tourist season, with hotspots such as Fira especially busy when the cruise ship and party crowds arrive. If you can, visit during the shoulder months of May and September for beautiful weather, lower prices, and thinner crowds.
Santorini’s picture-perfect, whitewashed cave homes are quintessentially Cycladic in their appearance (think cube houses with flat roofs). For a truly memorable way to see them in all their glory, take a sunset cruise around the caldera followed by a leisurely stroll through the cobbled streets of Oia or Fira. Equally notable are the island’s places of worship, such as the churches of St. Anastasi and St. Spirydon in Oia; Palia Panagia in Emporio; and the Catholic cathedral in Fira. Characterized by beautiful frescoes, blue domes, bell towers, and courtyards, you could lose yourself for hours in them.
No trip is complete without a sunset cruise around the caldera
Take a glimpse even further back into Santorini’s past at the archaeological site of Akrotiri on the southwestern side of the island. The center of a Bronze Age civilization, Akrotiri was covered in layers of volcanic ash following the eruption which formed the caldera. Excavated in 1967, the frescoed buildings, streets and squares of this “Greek Pompeii” are incredibly well-preserved—and even thought by some to be linked to Plato’s lost city of Atlantis.
Most international visitors arrive at Santorini Airport (JTR) via a transfer in the Greek capital of Athens (ATH). Numerous ferries and high-speed catamarans ply the waters between Santorini and Athens’ main port, Piraeus, as well as to and from other Greek islands. Frequent buses connect Santorini’s airport with the island’s principal town of Fira, with many onward services available from there. Alternatively, there’s a taxi rank outside Terminal 1, with the fare to downtown Fira about €20. Be aware that finding a taxi in peak season can be hard.
Steep slopes, cobbles, and a short supply of suitable taxis mean that wheelchair access is tricky at times, although adapted private tours are available. Flat paths make the Akrotiri archeological site easy to navigate in a wheelchair, as are some of Santorini’s top wineries.
KTEL Santorini operates an efficient bus network across the island. Choose between express and local services, with the latter making more frequent stops. While renting a car puts some of the island’s more inaccessible spots within reach, peak-season traffic and parking can be problematic. The fantastic six-mile caldera trail between Fira and Oia takes about four hours to walk and, although challenging, offers some of the island’s best views.
Although the LGBTQ+ scene isn’t on the same scale as on Mykonos, romantic Santorini caters to travelers of every stripe. Several of its most popular gay-welcoming hangouts are in Fira, including Tropical Bar, with its views of the island’s stunning oceanfront cliffs, and Casablanca Soul, which hosts live soul music.
Greeks tend to be very family-oriented, so despite Santorini being known as a honeymoon and party island, it’s also a great place for children. Greeks stay out late with their families, so after a trip to the beach such as Perissa or Kamari late in the afternoon, they’ll enjoy a light meal and Greek sweets (with coffee for parents) from around 9 or 10 p.m. However, remember that the island is very hilly and strollers won’t be able to access many of the streets in hillside towns like Oia and Fira.
It’s hard to eat badly in Santorini, although you’ll pay a premium to dine overlooking the caldera. If you are looking for a main with a side of spectacular views, upscale options include Mediterranean dining at Fly Away Creative Restaurant & Bar or Japanese at Roka in Imerovigli.
Freshly caught seafood—just add a glass of local Assyrtiko
Santorini doesn’t grow much in the way of crops, but what it does produce—such as cherry tomatoes, fava beans, and the island’s famous white eggplant—is packed with intense flavor.
Discover the taste of traditional Santorini at an authentic Greek taverna such as Ammoudi Fish Tavern, a family-run restaurant overlooking Ammoudi Bay; or follow a late afternoon on the beach at Perivolo with the fish of the day, mezze and a Santorini salad at Ta Dichtia. Try the tomato fritters and grilled stuffed sardines at To Psaraki, with views over Vlychada harbor and a long list of local wines.
Away from the water and housed in a former monastery, Selene offers contemporary Greek cuisine from a Michelin-starred chef. It also boasts an extensive wine list, focusing heavily on local wines. While the island’s soil is generally poor, its acidity makes it ideal for grapes, which are turned into some of the best wines in Greece. There are over 20 wineries on the island, including Gavalas, Venetsanos, and Santo Wines, all of which offer tours and tastings.
Santorini may not be one of the world’s shopping capitals, but there are plenty of boutiques specializing in beautiful vacation wear, such as Spicy Boutique in Fira and Ammos Stores in Oia. If you love authentic Greek leather sandals (and who doesn’t?), stop by the family-run Sandal Workshop in Fira where you’ll find a large array of strappy handmade shoes. Arguably the island’s best shop, the recently relocated Atlantis Books has become something of an attraction in its own right, home to a variety of rare books in numerous languages.
Oia is the photogenic jewel in Santorini’s crown and a favorite among honeymooners. Cascading down a cliff with cobbled streets and whitewashed houses aplenty, it is undeniably beautiful—but in peak season, undeniably busy. If jostling for a spot to take a picture of the sunset is not your thing, there are plenty of cafés and restaurants for a relaxed meal, meandering alleys to get lost down, and a Maritime Museum housed in a restored 19th-century mansion to explore. A short walk from the center of town, the Esperas Santorini hotel is spread out over eight levels with stunning views, a large pool and 21 rooms, some with plunge pools.
The capital and largest town of Santorini, Fira is also the center of the island’s nightlife scene. If you are here to party, the Koo Club and Enigma are Fira’s best-known clubs. In the daytime, hike the six-mile route along the rim of the caldera to Oia, passing blue-domed churches and making detours through the large villages of Imerovigli and Firostefani on the way. Cosmopolitan Suites has just 10 rooms and one of the best infinity pools in Fira, perched on the edge of the cliff overlooking the caldera.
Just 10 minutes’ drive from the coast and surrounded by vineyards, Megalochori feels a world away from the packed streets of peak-season Fira. Life moves slowly around the pretty town square; winding alleys lead off to elegant neoclassical houses and traditional Cycladic homes. Enjoy caldera views from the churches of Panagia Plaka and Agios Nikolaos, and visit the Symposion Cultural Center, a space dedicated to traditional Greek music which hosts performances, workshops and events.
Alex Gorton is a freelance writer, as well as the former travel editor of Condé Nast Brides. She has visited countries all over the globe, from Chile to Namibia, and lived in France, Canada, and the U.S.